refinishing walnut veneer speakers

[philv]

Hi,

I need to refinish some old speakers.
They have american walnut veneer that has scratches and scruffs.

I am going to lightly rub down with fine and ultrafine scotch brite pad.

Is finishing them with danish oil a good idea?
Anything i should be wary of?
Or alternative reccomendations or reccomendations for a particular make of oil?
Has to be simple to do!

Thanks.

[rigger67]

I've used Danish oil three times on three sets of speakers and the results have been excellent.
I heartily recommend it .. plus it's got an amazing smell so prepare to feel nicely mellow after a session :smoking:

[walpurgis]

I have mentioned before. Some veneer is applied using plastic/rubber based adhesives and oils are solvents to these. There is potential for veneer to start lifting off.

[struth]

i prefer a couple of coats of shellac and then waxed

[walpurgis]

i prefer a couple of coats of shellac and then waxed

Rustins water based satin varnish, followed by wax is what I use every time. My veneering looks like factory finish.

[RothwellAudio]

Preparing the surface is the hard part. Your options are to try to remove all traces of the original finish or to just key the surface and smooth out any scratches. Obviously, the second option is the easiest. If you choose the second option a wipe of Danish oil might be sufficient, or the Danish oil may leave the scratches easily visible.
If you choose the first option you are faced with either sanding off the original finish or removing it with a chemical stripper. Sanding could go horribly wrong if you sand through the veneer. Chemical stripping is messy and I don't much like it, though you might be made of sterner stuff than me.
Some pictures of the cabinets might be useful.

[struth]

Rustins water based satin varnish, followed by wax is what I use every time. My veneering looks like factory finish.

yes ive used that too. pretty similar solution to the problem of dissolving adhesives

[RothwellAudio]

Rustins water based satin varnish, followed by wax is what I use every time. My veneering looks like factory finish.
Starting with a nice, clean, untreated surface is one thing - starting with a finished surface which scratched or partially sanded is something else.

[walpurgis]

Starting with a nice, clean, untreated surface is one thing - starting with a finished surface which scratched or partially sanded is something else.

My Tannoys and KEFs were marked and chipped when I got them. They look mint now. Just a sanding and repair of dings, followed by the previously mentioned finish had them like new. Mind you, I'm good at this, I used to restore furniture. :)

[walpurgis]

Here's the finish I got on the KEFs.

http://i63.tinypic.com/t4xmkl.jpg

[Crackles]

I was wondering about this on my old Snells. They are a sort of black ash finish and being so old they now look crap. Would love to get them restored but I am wary of ruining the finish that is on them now.

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[philv]

Rustins water based satin varnish, followed by wax is what I use every time. My veneering looks like factory finish.

Thanks for the cracking replies as usual.

Would tne rustins be this one -

Rustins AVSC1000 1L Quick Dry Varnish - Satin Clear https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003UGIVDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_kRfEAb50M79Z9

Which wax would you reccomend?

Thanks

[RothwellAudio]

...Mind you, I'm good at this, I used to restore furniture. :)


Here's the finish I got on the KEFs.

http://i63.tinypic.com/t4xmkl.jpg

Yes, that's a great finish, it's clear that you are indeed good at this.
I hope the OP's lack of experience doesn't prove too much of a handicap.

[walpurgis]

Thanks for the cracking replies as usual.

Would tne rustins be this one -

Rustins AVSC1000 1L Quick Dry Varnish - Satin Clear https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003UGIVDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_kRfEAb50M79Z9

Which wax would you reccomend?

Thanks

Yes. That's the one. It's water based and dries very quickly. A further coat can be applied after about an hour if need be. It is also available in various shades too if wanted. Just use a lint free pad to apply. I use household wipes, their being damp does not matter. Apply thin coats. Any that goes over edges can be wiped off with a finger (well that's what I do :)).

This is the wax I use: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiddes-Mellow-Furniture-Wax-Clear-high-quality-blended-beeswax-polish-400g/332513627615?hash=item4d6b5b4ddf:g:AL8AAOSwA4dWIj~ 1 It is also available in various shades.

[walpurgis]

I was wondering about this on my old Snells. They are a sort of black ash finish and being so old they now look crap. Would love to get them restored but I am wary of ruining the finish that is on them now.

Why not experiment on the bottom of one cabinet?

[struth]

got fiddes wax too. nice stuff. shellac does a similar job to varnish, although dries very quick so you only get one wipe

[Crackles]

Why not experiment on the bottom of one cabinet?Good idea. Does anyone have any suggestions for what to use with a black finish?

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[philv]

Yes. That's the one. It's water based and dries very quickly. A further coat can be applied after about an hour if need be. It is also available in various shades too if wanted. Just use a lint free pad to apply. I use household wipes, their being damp does not matter. Apply thin coats. Any that goes over edges can be wiped off with a finger (well that's what I do :)).

This is the wax I use: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiddes-Mellow-Furniture-Wax-Clear-high-quality-blended-beeswax-polish-400g/332513627615?hash=item4d6b5b4ddf:g:AL8AAOSwA4dWIj~ 1 It is also available in various shades.

Thanks again.
That’s very interesting about the whipes.
No brush marks and easier to get a thin even coat i imagine.

[walpurgis]

Good idea. Does anyone have any suggestions for what to use with a black finish?

Sand the surface along the grain. Don't use coarse paper 'cos it'll leave marks. Just take your time with finer stuff. Take care sanding at edges, it's easy to go through the veneer there. Then try a coat of water based black suede shoe dye. Allow it to dry then if the finish looks even, bung some satin varnish on. I've done this and it works. Takes a little care and patience.

[walpurgis]

That’s very interesting about the whipes. No brush marks and easier to get a thin even coat i imagine.

Yup! :)

[struth]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Liberon-SDE1L-Spirit-Wood-Dye/dp/B001GU4BE4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1517842931&sr=8-4&keywords=liberon+ebony+wood+stain

i use this for black ash type speakers. its very good

[struth]

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/lhiEc3.jpg

https://imageshack.com/a/img922/5425/3brDye.jpg

this is how the ebony looks

[Crackles]

Sand the surface along the grain. Don't use coarse paper 'cos it'll leave marks. Just take your time with finer stuff. Take care sanding at edges, it's easy to go through the veneer there. Then try a coat of water based black suede shoe dye. Allow it to dry then if the finish looks even, bung some satin varnish on. I've done this and it works. Takes a little care and patience.Ok cheers will give it a go

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[Crackles]

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/lhiEc3.jpg

https://imageshack.com/a/img922/5425/3brDye.jpg

this is how the ebony looksLooks good. Are they Tannoys?

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[struth]

Looks good. Are they Tannoys?

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They are focal jmlabs Came up a treat. It's good stuff and Ive done a few pairs. Use rubber gloves as it stains fingers tho

[Crackles]

They are focal jmlabs Came up a treat. It's good stuff and Ive done a few pairs. Use rubber gloves as it stains fingers thoOk thanks. Will do.

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[The Alchemist]

Hi John,

My hobby is building speakers and I have recently made a pair for myself with an ebonised ash finish. To get the effect that I wanted I used two coats of Liberon ebony spirit dye that Grant recommended followed by two coats of Osmo Wax Oil 3169. The first coat of oil was applied with a fine Scotchbrite pad which automatically denibs the surface. The following day the surface was lightly flatted out with a fine Scotchbrite pad and then the final coat was applied (very thinly) with a microfibre cloth. The end result was exactly as I wanted. The wood is very dark but the grain can clearly be seen. The oil has a satin finish which I like. The photograph is not great but good enough to show what I mean.


http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/thealchemist3/Speaker%203_zpslyscrzkj.jpg?t=1517818302

[Crackles]

Hi John,

My hobby is building speakers and I have recently made a pair for myself with an ebonised ash finish. To get the effect that I wanted I used two coats of Liberon ebony spirit dye that Grant recommended followed by two coats of Osmo Wax Oil 3169. The first coat of oil was applied with a fine Scotchbrite pad which automatically denibs the surface. The following day the surface was lightly flatted out with a fine Scotchbrite pad and then the final coat was applied (very thinly) with a microfibre cloth. The end result was exactly as I wanted. The wood is very dark but the grain can clearly be seen. The oil has a satin finish which I like. The photograph is not great but good enough to show what I mean.


http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/thealchemist3/Speaker%203_zpslyscrzkj.jpg?t=1517818302Hi Richard. That does look fantastic and you have obviously taken a lot of care over it. Looking at them makes me want to get mine professionally refinished rather than do it myself. [emoji4]

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[The Alchemist]

Hi John,

What state are your speakers in? A photograph would be useful. If you use the right materials and if the cabinets are not in too bad a condition you would probably be able to do a decent job for not a lot of money.

[philv]

As an aside, i eant to replace the grill cloth on the speakers, JBL L50.

Thoughts on tne lighter shade of blue in this image?
I have trouble seeing the other two due to color blindness.

Is the lighter blue blue enough? Horrible? Ok?

Thanks
Fabric colors
https://flic.kr/p/249vPwa[
Grill type (blue in this pic no an option)
https://flic.kr/p/22M5rjx

[struth]

easy to change if you dont like it.

[philv]

easy to change if you dont like it.

True.
Sort of limited in what i can see.

I bought a luvly new SJS 300b set power amp a while back, walnut and all black top/transformers, etc.
When i picked it up i soon realised i couldn’t see it very well, as it eas too dark.
I could only make out details in photos.
Likewise with snell j2 in black.

[Crackles]

Hi John,

What state are your speakers in? A photograph would be useful. If you use the right materials and if the cabinets are not in too bad a condition you would probably be able to do a decent job for not a lot of money.Here's a picture. Bought them because I needed speakers with high sensitivity to use with a valve amp, expecting to upgrade them at some point. Got to say though I do quite like them, which is why I wouldn't mind doing them up.

http://i66.tinypic.com/5d1c43.jpg

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[walpurgis]

Those look dead easy to restore. Even the knocked corners can be made good.

[Crackles]

Here's a picture. Bought them because I needed speakers with high sensitivity to use with a valve amp, expecting to upgrade them at some point. Got to say though I do quite like them, which is why I wouldn't mind doing them up.

http://i66.tinypic.com/5d1c43.jpg

Sent from my SM-G920F using TapatalkHere's a close up of the side panel. As you can see they're not in good nick. [emoji4]

IMG]http://i67.tinypic.com/309h7j5.jpg[/IMG]

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[Crackles]

Try again

http://i67.tinypic.com/309h7j5.jpg

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[Crackles]

Those look dead easy to restore. Even the knocked corners can be made good.That's encouraging. Will definitely give this a go using the advice in this thread.

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[walpurgis]

Don't attempt any work on the cabinets with the drivers installed. Any dust will not do them good and it's all too easy to damage them.

[alphaGT]

Hi John,

My hobby is building speakers and I have recently made a pair for myself with an ebonised ash finish. To get the effect that I wanted I used two coats of Liberon ebony spirit dye that Grant recommended followed by two coats of Osmo Wax Oil 3169. The first coat of oil was applied with a fine Scotchbrite pad which automatically denibs the surface. The following day the surface was lightly flatted out with a fine Scotchbrite pad and then the final coat was applied (very thinly) with a microfibre cloth. The end result was exactly as I wanted. The wood is very dark but the grain can clearly be seen. The oil has a satin finish which I like. The photograph is not great but good enough to show what I mean.


http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/thealchemist3/Speaker%203_zpslyscrzkj.jpg?t=1517818302

So you built these speakers? They look great! I’ve got a few designs on paper that I plan to get to in warmer weather. But those look amazing, most impressive!

Russell

[ianlenco]

I restored a pair of Rogers LS3/5a cabinets a while back.
Before:

http://i.imgur.com/RJ9XUq5h.jpg#gWPQG

After:

http://i.imgur.com/Xzf02mwh.jpg#gWPQG

Magic ingredients? 50/50 mixture of olive oil and vinegar :) Works a treat on surface scratches. No need for extra virgin oil but white wine vinegar is a good idea :)

Smells a bit for a while. Use the leftovers to dress a salad.

[philv]

I restored a pair of Rogers LS3/5a cabinets a while back.
Before:

http://i.imgur.com/RJ9XUq5h.jpg#gWPQG

After:

http://i.imgur.com/Xzf02mwh.jpg#gWPQG

Magic ingredients? 50/50 mixture of olive oil and vinegar :) Works a treat on surface scratches. No need for extra virgin oil but white wine vinegar is a good idea :)

Smells a bit for a while. Use the leftovers to dress a salad.

How does that work/remove scratches?
Very impressive.

[ianlenco]

Don't know, I found the method on the web under general furniture restoring. Work it definitely does though. No need for abrasives either.

[RothwellAudio]

How does that work/remove scratches?
The scratched parts expose bare (or raw/untreated/unfinished) wood whereas the unscratched parts are finished wood. The olive oil darkens the scratches to blend in with the rest. Water would give a similar effect but the effect would disappear when the water evaporated. The oil gives it a permanent "wet" look.
This method is simple and can be very effective, particularly if the wood hasn't been coloured or stained in any way. It wouldn't work on, for example, beech that has been heavily stained to look very dark.

[Edward]

I have a pair of Kef Corellis (Like Geoffs) the wood of which I now want to restore. Will, based on this thread, use some Rustins clear satin varnish and then finish off with some Fiddes clear wax. But a few quick questions if I may? What type of prep sanding should I go for? Paul at RFC suggests 240 grit sandpaper but I see in this thread Scotchbrights being used. Also the speakers have some minor dings to the edges (not serious but would be great to fix). What is an easy fix please? Also on one corner the wood has gapped a bit (0.5 mm), can I simply use some clear wood filler?

cheers!

[walpurgis]

Dings, gaps and chips can be fixed with Rustins Wood Filler. Use the teak coloured type. Like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RUSTINS-TEAK-WOOD-FILLER-600g-Ready-mixed-No-Shrink-Filler-cracks-dents-holes/162067143215?epid=1410967792&hash=item25bbf45a2f:g:-v4AAOSwwN5Zgd9c

It's what I use and it works well. Apply very sparingly, so you don't have to rub down too much. Better to do it carefully a few times than rub through the thin veneer.

Minor adjustment of colour can be achieved with furniture touch-up pens like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SCRATCH-DAMAGE-REPAIR-PEN-TOUCH-UP-MARKER-FURNITURE-FLOORING-WOODEN-LAMINATE/372158426325?hash=item56a65eecd5:m:mJfRSh1JAeA7iTC C8xBlgXg

Again, apply very, very sparingly. It's a permanent marker and colours quickly.

Do all the above before applying varnish.

[Edward]

Dings, gaps and chips can be fixed with Rustins Wood Filler. Use the teak coloured type. Like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RUSTINS-TEAK-WOOD-FILLER-600g-Ready-mixed-No-Shrink-Filler-cracks-dents-holes/162067143215?epid=1410967792&hash=item25bbf45a2f:g:-v4AAOSwwN5Zgd9c

It's what I use and it works well. Apply very sparingly, so you don't have to rub down too much. Better to do it carefully a few times than rub through the thin veneer.

Minor adjustment of colour can be achieved with furniture touch-up pens like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SCRATCH-DAMAGE-REPAIR-PEN-TOUCH-UP-MARKER-FURNITURE-FLOORING-WOODEN-LAMINATE/372158426325?hash=item56a65eecd5:m:mJfRSh1JAeA7iTC C8xBlgXg

Again, apply very, very sparingly. It's a permanent marker and colours quickly.

Do all the above before applying varnish.

Cheers Geoff. Looks good. Any tips on getting a super straight edge? Or will the light rub get me there? (no sniggering in the back row now!)

[walpurgis]

Or will the light rub get me there?

Yes, just take your time and be patient and it will all be fine.

[Edward]

Sorry to be a bore Geoff but what do you suggest I use for rubbing? 240 grit paper or Scotchbrights or something else?

[walpurgis]

Stick with paper. 240 grit or slightly coarser. Use 240 for finishing. If you rub the filler down in plane with each cabinet face, you'll find you have sharp edges in the filler where it meets cabinet edges. Rub the sharpness down so the filler matches adjacent veneer edges.

[struth]

i used to use a trowel over the corner so u get a nice flush front and side, or use a piece of wood.

[walpurgis]

i used to use a trowel over the corner so u get a nice flush front and side, or use a piece of wood.

I buy batches of plastic spreaders for car bodywork filler from ebay. They are great for this kind of work.

(good for doing fiddly small plastering jobs too, I've just been using one on kitchen wall cracks :))

[philv]

Can anone reccomend a contact adesive for replacing speaker grill cloth?

The grilles are plastic and are rippled on tne l50.
Not just frames.
https://www.hifiengine.com/gallery/images/jbl-l50-speakers.shtml

So i need something strong, but possibly a little forgiving.

[alphaGT]

Can anone reccomend a contact adesive for replacing speaker grill cloth?

The grilles are plastic and are rippled on tne l50.
Not just frames.
https://www.hifiengine.com/gallery/images/jbl-l50-speakers.shtml

So i need something strong, but possibly a little forgiving.

Try some 3M Super 77 Spray glue adhesive, I used it to repair a car’s headliner, and it says in its description that it’s good for grillcloth.

Russell

[struth]

i use carpet tile spray. works well. worth practicing if youve not done it before. its not difficult but you kinda need to have an idea how it goes or you might waste good cloth. can try using old cloth on a smaller retangle first