View Full Version : Croft 25R Preamp Tube rolling
I know this subject has been covered many times way back on the forum but I though I would just post up an interesting observation regarding the Croft 25R preamp tubes.
I initially bought my Croft 25R with all JJTesla ECC83 S tubes included, one or two of them were cryogenic. I was soon keen to fiddle and mess and so bought a couple of 1970's NOS Tesla valves which were ok but not dramatically better but here lies the conundrum, were they really NOS "New" or just NOS having been rolled a number of times over the last decade, who knows. You have to rely on the word of the vendor unless you have a valve tester.
I knew Tesla NOS valves were some of the best sounding out there so I endeavoured to purchase some more. This time they were with gold pins and had 32 after the ECC83... Well they were OK and better than the JJTesla ECC83's but not significantly better. I then purchased some more NOS Tesla from a very reputable dealer and they were stunningly good these had the 37 code after ECC83. I stuffed my preamp with these and have been happy for a couple of years. I know preamp tubes can last 10,000 hours but recently one of mine started to sound like an out of tune FM radio. This was positioned in the regulation section.
I decided to replace these with a couple of NOS valves so had a good read round the net and to my amazement the JJTesla ECC83 S tubes were recommended over a lot of tubes including Telefunkens which I have seen go for £1500 a pair recently!:eek: JJTesla ECC83S goes for around £10. Investigating further I found the JJTesla ECC83S was an upgraded replacement for the JJTesla ECC83 and a number of dealers thought very highly of them. So I decided to pop some back in the regulation section of the Croft and wow, I was very surprised indeed. Dynamics were restored and on nearly every level they contributed a superb sonic oomph to the sound. Again I have read of other folk who have found this to be the case.
I think I may have been to quick in my initial assessment of the JJTeslas and even though the NOS Teslas were running under par, I have been very impressed with the JJ version. Obviously Glenn used the JJ valves to build the sonic performance of the Croft 25 so I should not really be surprised they performed very well.
I did try them in the phono stage but here I found them a bit bright and forward compared to the NOS Teslas.
I will be keeping the new JJTesla ECC83S in the regulation stage from now on as they have performed so well in this position. Sometimes it's good to go back over changes you have made as sonic memory is not always great. I recommend to any Croft owners out there to have a go with the JJTesla ECC83S in the regulation stage, you may be as surprised as I was and you will save yourself a few bob!
I had a pair of Telefunken ECC803S and a pair of Tesla ECC803S, yellow print, 32. Just as good as the Teles I was actually unable to hear a difference I could be sure of, which is very rare for me. Sold the Teles and made money.
I still personally rate the Tesla's as fantastic. But no experience of the Croft and there is no accounting for personal taste and how things will react in various different systems.
One thing I will say with valve rolling is a change is as good as a rest sometimes, and the hallmarks in the sound of a particular set of valves can wear thin, in preference to a set you have just swapped in, only to discover in a month or two that actually you've decided you really preferred the original option. Been there, done that. More than a few times.
Good to hear your views Justin as I know you do a fair bit if tube rolling! Certainly is worth revisiting the past sometimes as it can throw up some surprises.
Has anyone thought to ask Glenn himself? I mean, I'd suspect he'd 'voiced' the 25R to sound as right as possible with the valves he supplies, wouldn't he - he's not daft?
One thing I will say with valve rolling is a change is as good as a rest sometimes, and the hallmarks in the sound of a particular set of valves can wear thin, in preference to a set you have just swapped in, only to discover in a month or two that actually you've decided you really preferred the original option. Been there, done that. More than a few times.
Agreed :)
Has anyone thought to ask Glenn himself? I mean, I'd suspect he'd 'voiced' the 25R to sound as right as possible with the valves he supplies, wouldn't he - he's not daft?I had a short email exchange with Glenn on the subject of valves for my 25. His view was everybody has different preferences.
I have a NOS mullard in the line stage presently and it sounds lovely.
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My line stage is upgraded to the RS spec so I run a 12Bh7a in this position, a fabulous NOS Brimar from Anthony at Tube Distinctions.
However when I had a regular line stage I did try all sorts including Mullards but I found a GE 5751 worked well for me.
Listening to the Croft 25R+ this afternoon and there is information in the recording coming across I was not aware of before. Hard to think that the regulation valves could be that influential to the over all sound. I thought the line stage and certainly the phono stage was more important. Just goes to show you can learn something new all the time even with equipment you have had for years!
Maybe a techy could explain what the significance is of good valves in the regulation stage. I feel no matter how much you read or what folk tell you at the end of the day your own experience matters most, especially mucking about with valves.
Yep I have. His view is that he can source as many new JJ's as he needs and they are always a known quantity whereas it's impossible to source volume NOS valves of any stripe which he also opines are highly variable in quality and performance and as Simon also says personal sonic preference is highly variable. By sticking to JJ's (standard or gold) there will be minimal sonic variation between his individual amps.
FWIW and after swapping more tubes than I care to remember(Tesla, TFK, Phillips, GE, Amperex, Mazda, Full Music, Mullard, Brimar etc etc) I have settled on NOS Siemens for phono and regulator and Raytheon 12BH7A line stage in my 25RS. I've kept the JJ gold ECC99's in the 7 monos. I don't claim this combo is "better" than any others rather it just produces the sound I like.
Yes it is all about personal choice and what sound ticks the box for you. I have found that Valves can influence the sound from hyper detailed to rich and mellow. The JJ Teslas veer towards the top end in detail and strong dynamics and as you mentioned Stephen, Glenn uses them because there is consistent availability. However as I have found in particular the ECC83 S sounds very good indeed, even compared to some of the great NOS valves.
Interestingly I have a NOS Raytheon 12BH7 winging its way from the states at this moment which I ordered a couple of weeks ago. Looking forward to what it achieves in the line stage compared to the Brimar.
Interestingly I have a NOS Raytheon 12BH7 winging its way from the states at this moment which I ordered a couple of weeks ago. Looking forward to what it achieves in the line stage compared to the Brimar.
I think you will find the Raytheon more musical and enjoyable than the Brimar. I always find Brimars sound too "dark" for my tastes. Likewise GE and RCA (other than the 1950's RCA long black plates which I like very much)
Lawrence001
22-10-2017, 16:55
This thread has inspired me to try a pair. Is there any benefit to getting matched triodes within the valve? I would have thought you would want to match the equivalent triodes in the L/R valves, assuming it's one valve per channel. Although I read somewhere you don't need to match preamp valves at all, why might that be?
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I think you will find the Raytheon more musical and enjoyable than the Brimar. I always find Brimars sound too "dark" for my tastes. Likewise GE and RCA (other than the 1950's RCA long black plates which I like very much)
I have an RCA long black plate but it's past its best. When it was good it was superb,probably my favourite 12BH7a but looking forward to the Raytheon. I shopped around a bit for this valve and Europe is now very expensive with most £55 upwards. The Raytheon from tubemonger is £35 delivered from the states!
This thread has inspired me to try a pair. Is there any benefit to getting matched triodes within the valve? I would have thought you would want to match the equivalent triodes in the L/R valves, assuming it's one valve per channel. Although I read somewhere you don't need to match preamp valves at all, why might that be?
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If buying pairs or quads I always go for a matched set. Tubemonger are excellent as is WiWi valves in HK.
Can’t think why one wouldn’t want matched preamp valves in a phono stage.
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The Raytheon from tubemonger is £35 delivered from the states!
Don’t forget to factor in the import duty and outrageous “handling charges” on goods from US. It’s a licence to print money. At least buying from Europe/HK/China you dont get stung
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Don’t forget to factor in the import duty and outrageous “handling charges” on goods from US. It’s a licence to print money. At least buying from Europe/HK/China you dont get stung
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Mmmmmm you have a point there, although I thought goods under £50 did not attract import duties?
Mmmmmm you have a point there, although I thought goods under £50 did not attract import duties?The question is what does the seller mean by ' matched'?
Is it
1. Same brand
2. Same date and factory code
3. Same construction
4. Same emissions at a given grid voltage
5. Same transconductance at a given grid voltage
6. Same transconductance at a given anode current
7. Matched across several named operating points
My experience of valves is that few if any sellers 'match' valves, they just charge for the service. Wiwi and NOS tube store are notable exceptions here (in my experience) .
As many have noted, the valve is fitted to the circuit, so it's probably worth being guided by what the designer intended, even if a different flavour sounds better.
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Mmmmmm you have a point there, although I thought goods under £50 did not attract import duties?I thought it affected anything over £18, with fees being 20% of the total cost inc postage then there's a % for import duty, then a collection fee, so don't think you'll be far off £45 - £50 total .
I could be wrong on the £18 part, I didn't Google it. The fees don't always have to be paid when it arrives, you might get an invoice a few days later [emoji6]
I thought it affected anything over £18, with fees being 20% of the total cost inc postage then there's a % for import duty, then a collection fee, so don't think you'll be far off £45 - £50 total .
I could be wrong on the £18 part, I didn't Google it. The fees don't always have to be paid when it arrives, you might get an invoice a few days later [emoji6]
I'm also unsure about any minimum value before charges levied but I do know that last week I was charged £75 on a computer part I paid £235 for from USA. Came by UPS and customs wouldn't release until I'd paid upfront. This has been my constant experience of buying stuff from USA so I really try to avoid doing so but unfortunately all to often the part I want is only available over there.
It used to be £18 for new good and £36 for used goods. Even if it's 1p over you get charged full fees, I once paid £8 extra on an item that came into the UK at £18.01, the exchange rate had changed whilst in transit putting it over the £18 threshold [emoji17] the threshold had now changed to £15 and £39 for a gift.
The up to date fees are as follows.
New or used items over £15. A gift is allowed up to £39.
The fees added are 3.5% import duty, then 20% Vat. Bear in mind the vat is added to the cost of the item, the import tax and the postage!
https://www.gov.uk/goods-sent-from-abroad
Then the courier will add a collection fee, Royal Mail on smaller items are around £8, I think this is variable depending on the amount to be collected. So it soon mounts up.
I reckon Jimbo's valve will be approx £43 plus collection fee I'm sorry to say.
The question is what does the seller mean by ' matched'?
Is it
1. Same brand
2. Same date and factory code
3. Same construction
4. Same emissions at a given grid voltage
5. Same transconductance at a given grid voltage
6. Same transconductance at a given anode current
7. Matched across several named operating points
My experience of valves is that few if any sellers 'match' valves, they just charge for the service. Wiwi and NOS tube store are notable exceptions here (in my experience) .
As many have noted, the valve is fitted to the circuit, so it's probably worth being guided by what the designer intended, even if a different flavour sounds better.
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Indeed! And then there is the minefield of faked tubes - very common on the web/eBay especially the sought after ones like TFK's and TESLA's.
IME there are rarely if ever any bargains to be had nowadays so it pays to purchase from a reputable dealer and WiWi tubes are a strong recommendation.
Occasionally the AoS member Drew sells some of his tubes and they are always excellent and at a good price.
Just to make sure my ears were not tricking me I swapped back to the NOS Tesla's last night and back to the JJTesla valves today and the JJ are definitely superior. I must mention that this is only in the regulation stage not the phono stage. I might try some more JJ in there sometime.
This has been quite a surprise.
brian2957
25-10-2017, 16:18
Are these the valves which the amps come fitted with James
Are these the valves which the amps come fitted with James
They are Brian. Have you still got the originals in your phono stage or did you replace them?
brian2957
25-10-2017, 19:35
I don't have a phono stage in this amp mate . I do however , have the original JJ valve which was fitted in the preamp . Is it worth putting it back in for a listen ? Also is it worth getting one for the power amp . Bit of a learning curve mate as these amps are fairly new to me :)
I don't have a phono stage in this amp mate . I do however , have the original JJ valve which was fitted in the preamp . Is it worth putting it back in for a listen ? Also is it worth getting one for the power amp . Bit of a learning curve mate as these amps are fairly new to me :)
Sorry forgot it is line stage preamp only. Have a try and see what you think and yes could be still good in power amp. I think you might find them slightly more dynamic in both amps and a bit more detailed.
I would be very interested to see what you think mate.:)
I don't have a phono stage in this amp mate . I do however , have the original JJ valve which was fitted in the preamp . Is it worth putting it back in for a listen ? Also is it worth getting one for the power amp . Bit of a learning curve mate as these amps are fairly new to me :)Depends on system matching and personal preference. JJ valves have long been a favourite of mine, I have banged the drum for their 300b endlessly as they sound great in my amp, are well made, and measure very well. And they have a poor rep so are cheap to buy. The ECC83 types had a reputation for failing a while ago, I have no Idea if this was merited. Again, they measure well and are well made, much better than most Chinese boutique stuff. Who knows, anyway they measure well but different to eg. Tele smooth plate and Tesla frame grids. I rather suspect that in Croft amps the Mullard box plates would be a revelation (albeit at a price). Anyone tried them?
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brian2957
25-10-2017, 19:56
OK mate . I have just put the JJ valve back into the preamp and yes , it is noticeably more dymamic . Quite different from the Mullard which was in there . I will probably have to live with it for a few days before making a decision on which I prefer :)
OK mate . I have just put the JJ valve back into the preamp and yes , it is noticeably more dymamic . Quite different from the Mullard which was in there . I will probably have to live with it for a few days before making a decision on which I prefer :)
The Mullards is probably warmer, the JJ a bit leaner and more detailed ?
Depends on system matching and personal preference. JJ valves have long been a favourite of mine, I have banged the drum for their 300b endlessly as they sound great in my amp, are well made, and measure very well. And they have a poor rep so are cheap to buy. The ECC83 types had a reputation for failing a while ago, I have no Idea if this was merited. Again, they measure well and are well made, much better than most Chinese boutique stuff. Who knows, anyway they measure well but different to eg. Tele smooth plate and Tesla frame grids. I rather suspect that in Croft amps the Mullard box plates would be a revelation (albeit at a price). Anyone tried them?
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JJ Tesla upgraded the ECC83 to the ECC83 S which was a significant improvement in SQ.
brian2957
25-10-2017, 20:43
In your opinion is it worth trying an ECC83S James ?
In your opinion is it worth trying an ECC83S James ?
Definitely Brian, they are not expensive.:)
brian2957
25-10-2017, 21:02
Got a link please ?
Here you go mate, cheap as chips!
https://www.watfordvalves.com/product_detail.asp?id=4701
brian2957
25-10-2017, 21:13
Thanks James , you're a gent :)
Just had chance to try a nice NOS Raytheon 12BH7a in the Croft 25R+ line stage. Big rich soundstage with great detail and a tad more warmth than the Brimar. Listening with the 2M Black on the front end gives a great analogue experience.
So after trying a Westinghouse, Brimar, GE, RCA and now a Raytheon I would say my preference would be for the RCA. This 12BH7a has everything. Unfortunately mine is coming to the end of its life so now need to source another beauty.
Bigman80
26-11-2017, 19:17
That's a good list of contenders mate. I shan't be participating because the Telefunkens are doing the business for me.
That croft set up is a beauty. I'm half tempted to see if the phonostage in the pre is available as a separate unit
O
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That's a good list of contenders mate. I shan't be participating because the Telefunkens are doing the business for me.
That croft set up is a beauty. I'm half tempted to see if the phonostage in the pre is available as a separate unit
O
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The phono stage in the pre is available separately as the RIAA or RIAA R or RIAA RS (two box with separate p/s).
All the separate phono stages are better than mine in the 25R preamp! They have a more sophisticated set up with three valves. Glenn said there was more space in the separate phono stage to do a better job!
Personally I would go for the RIAA R regulated phono stage. All valve of course, so plenty to play around with. Think there are 5 valves in this phono.
Bigman80
26-11-2017, 19:57
The phono stage in the pre is available separately as the RIAA or RIAA R or RIAA RS (two box with separate p/s).
All the separate phono stages are better than mine in the 25R preamp! They have a more sophisticated set up with three valves. Glenn said there was more space in the separate phono stage to do a better job!
Personally I would go for the RIAA R regulated phono stage. All valve of course, so plenty to play around with. Think there are 5 valves in this phono.As with everything, it'll come down to price but thanks for the info Jim, it's food for thought!
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As with everything, it'll come down to price but thanks for the info Jim, it's food for thought!
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Plenty of tube rolling opportunities in the RIAA R!:lol:
Bigman80
26-11-2017, 20:10
Plenty of tube rolling opportunities in the RIAA R![emoji38]Just had look............I'll wait for a second hand one 🤣
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I found the JJECC83S valves to be more dynamic in the phono stage of my 25R, than the NOS Mullards, TJ Full Music, and Genelex Gold Lions I tried at the time, and recall reading somewhere that the JJ's have higher gain than the standard 100, so thought at the time that was the reason for what I heard.
I must confess to swapping out the supplied regulation JJ's, for the NOS Mullards i already owned, before listening to them, so will give them a try this week.
I recently replaced the supplied JJ ECC83S with a NOS Mullard M8137 (CV4004) in my Series 7, & that increased the dynamics & punch a notch or 2, or maybe what I heard was reduction of the noise floor :scratch:
I found the JJECC83S valves to be more dynamic in the phono stage of my 25R, than the NOS Mullards, TJ Full Music, and Genelex Gold Lions I tried at the time, and recall reading somewhere that the JJ's have higher gain than the standard 100, so thought at the time that was the reason for what I heard.
I must confess to swapping out the supplied regulation JJ's, for the NOS Mullards i already owned, before listening to them, so will give them a try this week.
I recently replaced the supplied JJ ECC83S with a NOS Mullard M8137 (CV4004) in my Series 7, & that increased the dynamics & punch a notch or 2, or maybe what I heard was reduction of the noise floor :scratch:
I think a lot of folk, including myself, have dismissed the JJ ECC83S valves supplied with the Croft amps and automatically popped in some NOS ECC83's. It was only by chance I popped some JJECC83s valves back in the regulation stage did I appreciate just how good these valves are and they cost peanuts in comparison to any of the NOS valves available.
Frazeur1
19-12-2017, 17:59
I agree with that, the stock JJ's are indeed pretty darn good. Good enough to keep me from continually messing around, especially at the price. More music, less faffing around....
So I decided to try rolling the tubes in the Croft 25R back to the original JJTesla ECC83S tubes it came with. I have had great results in the regulation stage so I thought lets try the phono stage.
The JJ Teslas did not even last the night! Popped the NOS Tesla ECC83 37,s back in. MASSIVE difference. No comparison at all. They slaughter the JJ Teslas on every account! Won't be doing that again. :roll eyes:
Whilst I had the lid off decided to use some tube damping rings. 2 on the line stage tube and 1 each on the phono stage tubes. I have read I would loose some dynamics and detail but this is not what I have found. The tube rings have given the sound more precision and image stability.
More listening required.
Bigman80
21-04-2018, 19:33
So I decided to try rolling the tubes in the Croft 25R back to the original JJTesla ECC83S tubes it came with. I have had great results in the regulation stage so I thought lets try the phono stage.
The JJ Teslas did not even last the night! Popped the NOS Tesla ECC83 37,s back in. MASSIVE difference. No comparison at all. They slaughter the JJ Teslas on every account! Won't be doing that again. :roll eyes:
Whilst I had the lid off decided to use some tube damping rings. 2 on the line stage tube and 1 each on the phono stage tubes. I have read I would loose some dynamics and detail but this is not what I have found. The tube rings have given the sound more precision and image stability.
More listening required.Yup, Valve rings do bring the precision. I love them. JJ valves aren't at the level of the original Tesla's or Telefunken.
Just had chance to try a nice NOS Raytheon 12BH7a in the Croft 25R+ line stage. Big rich soundstage with great detail and a tad more warmth than the Brimar. Listening with the 2M Black on the front end gives a great analogue experience.
So after trying a Westinghouse, Brimar, GE, RCA and now a Raytheon I would say my preference would be for the RCA. This 12BH7a has everything. Unfortunately mine is coming to the end of its life so now need to source another beauty.I tried loads of 12BH7As years ago.
My faves were RCAs - mid 70s Mexican production grey plates were good, but even better were the older RCA black plates which I think were 1960s. The plates are longer than the Mexican ones and a shiny metallic black. Ace I reckon.
The Tesla gold pin yellow print 32 factory ECC803S is probably a bit better than the one you are using. Just a suggestion.
I tried loads of 12BH7As years ago.
My faves were RCAs - mid 70s Mexican production grey plates were good, but even better were the older RCA black plates which I think were 1960s. The plates are longer than the Mexican ones and a shiny metallic black. Ace I reckon.
The Tesla gold pin yellow print 32 factory ECC803S is probably a bit better than the one you are using. Just a suggestion.
I agree with you regarding RCA 12BH7a - superb. I had gold pin Tesla 32s but they were not as good as the 37s I am using.
I agree with you regarding RCA 12BH7a - superb. I had gold pin Tesla 32s but they were not as good as the 37s I am using.Interesting re 37s. Were the 32s actually ECC803S though? Or ECC83?
Interesting re 37s. Were the 32s actually ECC803S though? Or ECC83?
The Gold pin Tesla's were ECC83's
Maybe try the ECC803S 32 at some stage. It is as good as the Telefunken ECC803S. You may read differently elsewhere but I struggled to tell the two apart after days of trying. Weeks actually now I think about it.
Maybe try the ECC803S 32 at some stage. It is as good as the Telefunken ECC803S. You may read differently elsewhere but I struggled to tell the two apart after days of trying. Weeks actually now I think about it.
I will try and get hold of some. You haven't got any knocking about have you Justin.:)
I will try and get hold of some. You haven't got any knocking about have you Justin.:)
No I sold them with the amp. It doesn't look like the 37 (Trinec) factory ever made an ECC803S, it being the sole preserve of the Rosnov (32) one? Could be wrong, though.
Have a look at the picture below. A few (but not all - just the ones I sold with the amp) 12BH7As are in there.
The 4 RCAs at the top left are the Mexican mid 70s grey short plates. The two in the leftmost middle row are RCA grey long plates, as are the two on the bottom row two in from the left (but white print from an earlier period). The Daddy's, though, are the two by the white boxes, packed March 1966, with long black plates. Cream of the crop, I think.
https://fngguw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mwj8aYZdUSNdwgTbHTT16FqJICOF1GZZTY-o32s7nwTEI8OXiWP0YjcR45dxInxSRadQdWmc4reUfTLuttjUW M7Iv6vXp9A4eCffzVtE7uQQs7yjHBQJhHQft19QI0e4IeklslZ NFgh3dizNw10_XnIOH4AKyWw_55kfW5wRSztazKrhDdgRmaKb6 O3_QM3cmNcrqcga5FcQX5gIUFbrmoQ?width=909&height=682&cropmode=none
What a fantastic collection. I am after a NOS RCA 12BH7a so sad I missed you selling them.:(
I have plenty of the ECC83 37's which I believe are younger than the 32's. Swapping them in my phono stage last night with the modern JJTesla was like night and day!
What a fantastic collection. I am after a NOS RCA 12BH7a so sad I missed you selling them.:(
I have plenty of the ECC83 37's which I believe are younger than the 32's. Swapping them in my phono stage last night with the modern JJTesla was like night and day!
I sold the Air Tight probably 10 years ago now... not surprised you missed it;)
The 37s may be right up your street. Not heard them. There are no guarantees... you may prefer the 37s but the ECC803S is "supposed" to be the best ECC83.
Have fun.
I'm pretty sure Tesla never produced an ECC803S, just a copy of the Telefunken legend, produced as an ECC83 and an E83CC which are both frame grid valves.
Whilst on the subject I've never been entirely convinced Tesla gold pin ECC83 types were factory produced, though E88CC valves were so...
I've never had the fabled ECC803S Telefunken to play with but can tell you that all the Tesla valves off the production line have astonishingly consistent measured performance, hard on datasheet spec, no need for matching.
Sonically the 32 valves outperform the 37 in my Art Vinyl, more alive. This suits me fine as they are easier to get NOS and cheaper as well. The Trinec are genuine NOS, Rosnov allegedly so though I can't be certain (gold pins as well), they all measure very much the same.
I have some Tesla instrumentation grade military tubes, crossed swords, red dot, NOS as well that I haven't used, Rosnov factory E83CC and 88CC. These are now rare as anything, I daren't use them!
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Not sure what you are saying Jazzid.
There are plenty of Tesla 32 ECC803S yellow print gold pins on eBay now. They were allegedly produced using Telefunken equipment.
Not sure what you are saying Jazzid.
There are plenty of Tesla 32 ECC803S yellow print gold pins on eBay now. They were allegedly produced using Telefunken equipment.
Sorry Justin, I was having a(nother) senior moment I think. Of course you are correct - there are such valves - and they aren't frame grids, they're ladder plates which wasn't relevant to what you were saying! I am a big fan of frame grid valves so started rambling on about them, and in that context in my system the 37 code tubes do sound better. I've never tried the ladder plate Teslas so have no opinion about them, but if you think they might be in the same ballpark as the frame grid valves then I shall certainly put them on my radar. :)
Maggusch
13-02-2024, 11:18
Hi there,
I habe a 25RS phono integrated. It should be one of his first RS cause it originally came with two 300VA toroids in a seperate silver housing different in dimensions. Glenn (Rip) was so kind to sell be an empty black enclosure in wich I had turned in the PSU.
My MM phono tends to sound a bit distorted and somehow a bit decraised in gain lever. Is it possible that I have to change the tubes cause I bought it second hand and don't know the age of the tubes. I own this amp for 4 ys, now.
Tubes that are used:
2 Philips Miniwatt ECC83
1 EH 12BH7AEH Goldpin
2 Watford Valves Cryo ECC83S
1 Valvo 85A2 OG3
Maybe some pins are black/detoriated so bad contact
Thank you for your insights
kininigin
20-02-2024, 16:26
Hi there,
I habe a 25RS phono integrated. It should be one of his first RS cause it originally came with two 300VA toroids in a seperate silver housing different in dimensions. Glenn (Rip) was so kind to sell be an empty black enclosure in wich I had turned in the PSU.
My MM phono tends to sound a bit distorted and somehow a bit decraised in gain lever. Is it possible that I have to change the tubes cause I bought it second hand and don't know the age of the tubes. I own this amp for 4 ys, now.
Tubes that are used:
2 Philips Miniwatt ECC83
1 EH 12BH7AEH Goldpin
2 Watford Valves Cryo ECC83S
1 Valvo 85A2 OG3
Maybe some pins are black/detoriated so bad contact
Thank you for your insights
Maybe you can try your linestage valves in the phono section and see if the problem is still there?
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