View Full Version : TD 125 not in great shape
Hi All
I got given this by late uncle's widow, as I used to admire it.
Its a 125 in original plinth with a lovely cover and sporting a 3012 mkII.
Sort of Wide wheel Base TD125, very sexy.
and here s me thinkin it might be plug n play...
I picked it up off a table it was sat on for years and we saw a colony of termites had been thriving there and had eaten away the table cloth and the board under the plinth.
I took it home and on removing the cardboard base discovered that the critters had done some serious damage - they had almost preferentially eaten away the wooden struts that the chassis is secured to by screws.
In fact the chassis was sunken becos of this
The wooden triangular cross sections at the corners were also eaten away - amazing how these were left as thin shells !
pics are pretty bad, sorry.
I did not try to power up especially after seeing complex electronics.
Besides all the oil from the bearing was somehow all over the platter - someone must have tipped it over at some stage.
I ve always admired the 125. Seems more complex than the 124s i have.
Aside from the plinth ( which is probably salvageable) there is the electronics, motor and belt and of course the arm that needs refurbishment.
I think there is a Stanton or Pickering in the SME headshell
I need some advice about what to do.
Thanks2057820579205802058120582
Firebottle
23-06-2017, 05:55
That's a shame, TT attacked by termites. Looks like the corner blocks can be replaced.
As for the electronics it is probably fine. Give it all a very good visual inspection for damage to wires and components. I wouldn't have though termites will eat plastic and such.
Good luck,
Alan
killie99
23-06-2017, 07:25
TD125's are fantastic tables, I have a Mk2 and love it. Here's a write up I did a few years ago when I refurbished mine.
https://hifiwigwam.com/forum/topic/89725-td125-restoration/
TD125's are fantastic tables, I have a Mk2 and love it. Here's a write up I did a few years ago when I refurbished mine.
https://hifiwigwam.com/forum/topic/89725-td125-restoration/
thanks Stuart n Allan
I ve always loved the look of the 125 and hope to do this one up nicely to sit with the 124s
err i also got given a 150 that needs some work to...
walpurgis
23-06-2017, 09:02
Nice turntable the TD125 and well worth some effort. I also like the TD150, which I actually prefer. It sounds just as good and the simplicity appeals.
Bigman80
23-06-2017, 09:29
Nice turntable the TD125 and well worth some effort. I also like the TD150, which I actually prefer. It sounds just as good and the simplicity appeals.
TD 125,150 or 160 Geoff? Which do you rate highest.
Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk
walpurgis
23-06-2017, 09:37
TD 125,150 or 160 Geoff? Which do you rate highest
They each sound good Oliver. Just take your pick! :) TD126 is another.
killie99
23-06-2017, 09:57
Too many things to go wrong with a TD126, the TD125 is a much simpler and more reliable deck. The electronics on the 125 are very simple and replacement components are easily available. 150's and 160's are nice decks but they don't have the level of engineering that's in the 125. A big advantage I see of the 125 over the 150 and 160 is speed control. It's very easy to fine adjust the speed on the 125 to ensure it's running at the correct speed, the same can't be said of the 150 and 160 where there is no fine speed adjustment available and as the belt starts to stretch you'll run in to speed drift issues.
Another huge plus for the 125 is you can pretty much fit any arm you like to it, that's not so easy with a 150 and somewhat troublesome on a 160 for a good number of arms.
Personally I found the 125 to be streets ahead of the 150 and 160 with very little between a 150 and 160.
Lots of good info here http://www.theanalogdept.com/thorens_dept_.htm
Bigman80
23-06-2017, 10:14
Too many things to go wrong with a TD126, the TD125 is a much simpler and more reliable deck. The electronics on the 125 are very simple and replacement components are easily available. 150's and 160's are nice decks but they don't have the level of engineering that's in the 125. A big advantage I see of the 125 over the 150 and 160 is speed control. It's very easy to fine adjust the speed on the 125 to ensure it's running at the correct speed, the same can't be said of the 150 and 160 where there is no fine speed adjustment available and as the belt starts to stretch you'll run in to speed drift issues.
Another huge plus for the 125 is you can pretty much fit any arm you like to it, that's not so easy with a 150 and somewhat troublesome on a 160 for a good number of arms.
Personally I found the 125 to be streets ahead of the 150 and 160 with very little between a 150 and 160.
Lots of good info here http://www.theanalogdept.com/thorens_dept_.htm
Thats a very thorough response! Looks like there is a clear advantage to a TD125.
Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk
Gents, i think my 125 is the earlier mkI ( it just says 125).
Can anyone enlighten me as to what Thorens did that was different on the mkII ?
killie99
24-06-2017, 09:55
There aren't huge differences between the mk1 and mk2. They changed the electronics, the bearing and the motor. You can't run a mk1 motor with mk2 electronics or a mk2 motor with mk1 electronics (the mk1 motor doesn't have a clutch). I don't believe any of the changes make any difference to the sound. There are plenty of discussions on the web if you google.
Wakefield Turntables
24-06-2017, 16:23
This smells like an excellent refurb and tweaking project. :eyebrows:
CornishPasty
25-06-2017, 01:56
That's the rare long base version you have there and deserves to be rescued. I'm quite envious as my own TD125/3012 is just the standard 125 with pear shaped arm board to allow fitting of the longer arm. There is a chap that converts short base 125s to long base and new plinths were available last time I visited his site. I doubt they'll be cheap though. I'll try and find a link to the site in the morning. Will the old plinth be repairable once infested with termites? They're not a complicated plinth so maybe a local cabinet maker could build you a new one.
killie99
25-06-2017, 07:49
all the differences between standard and long base are cosmetic, all the electronics and mechanics are the same
CornishPasty
25-06-2017, 18:25
Aye I'm aware of that but I'd still like to have one.
The guy that does the conversions and rebuilds goes under the name of audio nirvana.
This smells like an excellent refurb and tweaking project. :eyebrows:
It could be Andrew.
Gents thanks.
I am meeting someone who made a nice hollow plinth for 124/ Graham 1.5 , to discuss a massier plinth for the 124/3012 but this 125 is exciting and will take precedence.
I will get a plinth made with the same width and depth (as I want to install the cover which is in super condition) but will probably make it a little taller.
Yes its a simple elegant plinth - MDF with a walnut veneer ( i think) but will get this remade in solid wood.
The termites did a big munch on the back right mount destroying it ( so the chassis sunk here) and had eaten all the way into the MDF just shy of the veneer.
So there is no point trying to save it.
Stuart i read your inspiring thread on yr 125 II
I now understand the design of the thing
I have removed the sprung top plate that carries the armboard.
Well engineered alright, certainly more complex than the 150/160/LP12
I am a little disappointed that it carries the 3012, an arm I am very familiar with. I have refurbished the one i have on the 124.
Perhaps i could sell it and get a Jelco 12 '' of look out for a FR64.
Ideas welcome guys.
Ralph, I ve never seen a SWB with pear shaped armboard to accommodate 12'' arm.
Would require special plinth I imagine
I had an L shaped board on 124/3012 but ditched it for the oversized massier Swiss one.
I have someone who can sort out the electronics and the motor. I have not tried to powered up.
Yes this is going to be a bit of fun
As a teenager i admired it in the HiFi shops in Spore and remember noting ah thats a 125 while ours at home was the 124 !
CornishPasty
26-06-2017, 18:08
I say pear shaped, it looks similar to the 3012 armboard you often see on the 124. My 125 is in one of those big SME plinths.
I say pear shaped, it looks similar to the 3012 armboard you often see on the 124. My 125 is in one of those big SME plinths.
Ralph I ve seen a pic of the pear shaped armboard to accommodate the 12 '' arm
This is very nice;
https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=88641
TD125's are fantastic tables, I have a Mk2 and love it. Here's a write up I did a few years ago when I refurbished mine.
https://hifiwigwam.com/forum/topic/89725-td125-restoration/
Stuart i need some tips from you or from anyone else familiar with this tt.
I have taken the top plate off the chassis.
How do i get the 3 springs off the top plate?
I am considering painting it
Some well finished Al plates are available in a variety of colours on eBay, that simply stick on with double sided tape.
Did you ever consider dampening the plate ? It has a 'ring' when knocked
Re the chassis - i dont want to damage the rectangular ON/OFF and the speed select switches.
Do they just lift off?
Much appreciated
Ta
killie99
04-07-2017, 07:20
The springs just pull off, they're held in place by what appears to be a rubber solution glue. Before you pull them off, paint a mark on the springs (nail varnish is ideal) and take a photograph so you can replace them exactly where they need to go, else you'll be buggering around for hours trying to center the top plate when you put it back together. (1 dab on 1 spring 2 dabs on 2nd spring 3 dabs on 3rd spring then you'll get each one in it's original place and orientation which is the best place to start as they should then only need minor adjusting to get the bonce correct).
If the sets of little grey washers have perished you can buy new ones from http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-NEW-WASHER-GROMMETS-FRAME-THORENS-TD-125-THORENS-TD-126-MADE-IN-ITALY-/262564274480?hash=item3d220ce130:g:Y5wAAOSwl9BWKnv a
I have damped the top plate with dynamat in all the voids on the underside.
The switches don't just pull off. You have to remove a tiny screw from underneath each switch. You'll need to remove the chassis from the plinth to access the screws.
Great tips Stuart, big thanks
I ve ordered the washers.
I have removed the 3 springs from the top plate of the 125 , and was amazed at how well they seem to have fared after all these years (prob early 70s,as this is a 'mark I').
They feel firm and the rubber 'bung' that fits on the wider end of each spring that then attaches to the top plate, is nice and soft.
Even the washers on the other end are fine.
There is no doubt that the aluminium top plate has a 'ring' to it .
I cant seem to get Dynamat easily here in Malaysia.
Was thinking if some heavy duty double sided tape (the thicker spongy type) and a suitable 'something' be stuck on to the bottom of the plate might do the trick.
Can anyone suggest what that something might be ?
I am aware that i wouldnt want to overdamp the thing.
Any ideas will be welcome.
Can you not try car engine bay damping panels? Something like that ought to be available in Malaysia.
RothwellAudio
18-07-2017, 15:09
I am aware that i wouldnt want to overdamp the thing.
Any ideas will be welcome.
What would be the problem with "over" damping? I would want no resonance at all, therefore it couldn't be over-damped. I'd damp it till it was dead.
Almost anything stuck to it - as long as it covered most of the surface area - would be effective. Two dissimilar materials bonded together will always damp each other, even if they're both resonant individually.
Sharin the perfect material for this is EDPM rubber sheet available on Ebay in various thicknesses..
I have covered my speakers with it for both reasons of durability and damping. Glue it with a neoprene adhesive, eg Time Bond, but roughen the to be glued side first. You cannot overdamp these passive parts.
Thanks for the advice and encouragement to damp
I figured it might make the thing sonically dull .
I have sourced something locally
http://sgwangacc.com.my/STP-Gold-Aero-Antirust-Sound-Proof-Vibration-Solution-Damping-Self-Adhesive
Can someone indicate the volume of oil to put in the central casing of the platter shaft ?
killie99
27-07-2017, 08:36
My technique has been to fill it with ****some**** oil, wrap a tissue around the bearing housing (to catch any overflow) and insert the inner platter. Leave it a minute or 2, give it a spin with my hand, let it stop, remove inner platter, if the oil hasn't spilled over add a few more drops and repeat the above process until some oil has overflowed and been caught by the tissue. That way I know the bearing has the maximum amount of oil in it.
as killie says... i'd start with about a 1\3 full
Cheers guys
I am not quite there yet
Have sorted out the electronics, motor works and has been calibrated.
Have got new belt.
Platter shaft and cylinder cleaned.
i need to get a new bearing for shaft (mkI)
Await new springs and bits for suspension.
Still thinking abt arm - would really like a Jelco 750L on it
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