Project 1200

[alcarmichael]

I have been inspired by the - quite frankly amazing - projects created by some of the forum members, I've decided to give it a go myself. Firstly thank you to everyone who has documented their projects, without these previous threads I'd have no chance; my electrical/electronics understanding is poor!

My plan is to keep it relatively simple for my first attempt then maybe move on to bigger and better things in the future. I bought a shabby looking Technics 1200 Mk2 off of eBay and today I finally stripped it down. I never took any pictures of it pre cleaning but it was minging! So much dust, filth and interesting looking dead bugs!

After stripping and cleaning I'm left with this

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170408/0c2c90b4f3a5f28ecf0509ebb139d8e8.jpg

I like the idea of having a nice clean looking deck, so the lamp, power switch and pitch fader won't be going back in. Their old homes - along with the recess for the 45 adapter - will be filled with a resin. Here I have (hopefully) sealed all gaps with metal tape.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170408/29db455f87be2775690318171f4c672d.jpg

Then this horrible stuff will fill all the gaps I no longer need.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170408/d6a0ccbd63ad4fce9139302880371e3e.jpg

Like so:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170408/712379902e21e00981bc4ed3c33de071.jpg

This has been left to cure overnight ready for sanding tomorrow. It would seem now though that tomorrow is BBQ day so after finally starting, the project is on temporary hold!


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[Bigman80]

Damn sunshine getting in the way of a good build thread.

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[alcarmichael]

I can't imagine the sunshine will be the cause of many delays!

[Wakefield Turntables]

Always nice to see a new techy being restored, revamped and modded!

[1200reasons]

I got a custom paint job on my 1200 and lately I've been regretting not removing the pitch fader and going with the smooth surface look. So elegant

[alcarmichael]

Sorry about the pictures, they looked OK on my phone. Only seeing now how blurry they are!

[Cycleallday]

I think you should consider removing the last bit of electronics, motor and spindle/bearing before you start sanding - they come out very easily but ask if you need help or look for viperfrank on youtube for excellent advice.

Mel

[Dubster68]

This is one of the mods I have always fancied doing. Love the clean look once its all painted. Keep the pics coming Alex:D

[alcarmichael]

I think you should consider removing the last bit of electronics, motor and spindle/bearing before you start sanding - they come out very easily but ask if you need help or look for viperfrank on youtube for excellent advice.

Mel

I was going to initially, I started removing the screws then quickly realised there was some sort of thermal paste connecting the PCB (conductor?) to the chassis. I then decided it may be a better idea to leave said conductor where it is and protect the circuitry with paper and tape for sanding.


This is one of the mods I have always fancied doing. Love the clean look once its all painted. Keep the pics coming Alex:D

I'll hopefully get some sanding done during tea breaks throughout the week. Will try and be more careful when taking pictures too.

[moodybuilder]

Looking forward to seeing the results I have removed the pitch fader myself, now thinking of a 2 arm model. I would consider removing the electrics before sanding as the fine dust will find a way through what ever you use to protect it.

[alcarmichael]

Sanding progress:https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170410/566a043f4ce4963b7515130d46af6b45.jpg


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[alcarmichael]

Looking much better now after plenty of sanding:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170410/cd2a36fe80f4aba9fb00631bba5f1181.jpg

I decided to remove the angular edging whilst sanding, hopefully this minor detail will make it appear more elegant:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170410/32641061b716b8e905a7799d22aaa074.jpg

Unfortunately I need to do a bit more filling as a small exothermic reaction occurred while the resin cured:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170410/d744b9a313a25729fc760b9ab11b544e.jpg


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[Bigman80]

Holy!!

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[alphaGT]

So once you've got it sanded, how do you plan to paint it? If you are handy with an airbrush, you can use something like Testors Enamel paint for model cars. They've got some right awesome metallics and metalflakes. And an enamel finish would be durable and look professional. They make spray jars with a pressurized top, pour the paint in the jar and and screw the top on, and it works like a spray can. Or! Cover it with gold leaf! And paint clear over that, so it looks like a solid gold brick! Just tossing some ideas out there, I can't see the last 3 pictures for some reason? But it looks like you've got it going on!


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[alphaGT]

I see them now, use some automotive glazing for a final fill over that epoxy, it sands super smooth. Take a plastic card and wipe the entire 'table, just like it were a motorcycle tank. To level it out perfectly smooth all over, and accepts most kinds of paint, makes a good base for any kind of paint you may use, urethane, enamel. Lacquer, or Auto-Air. But you already know that, not sure why I feel the need to tell you what you already know. I live vicariously through others.


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[alcarmichael]

My initial plan was to attempt the spraying myself, a friendly painter at work though has kindly offered his services so it will be done professionally meaning it should be at a far higher standard than I'd achieve. I'm currently thinking a piano black finish would both look nice and tie in well with rest of my kit.

[rigger67]

I'd really like to see someone do the "stealth bomber" finish on it, a bit like on this great HTC phone (which I still have, btw) :

http://cdn2.gsmarena.com/vv/pics/htc/htc-touch-diamond-00.jpg


I love that angular asymmetric finish :)

[alcarmichael]

Today I managed to quickly fill the filling! I also filled some very minor imperfections in the metal, these would probably have been taken care of by the primer but thought I may as well make sure while I'm at it. I tried sanding at the end of the day but it hadn't quite cured yet:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170412/116783af13b429cc56290cd11e1d4241.jpg


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[alphaGT]

My initial plan was to attempt the spraying myself, a friendly painter at work though has kindly offered his services so it will be done professionally meaning it should be at a far higher standard than I'd achieve. I'm currently thinking a piano black finish would both look nice and tie in well with rest of my kit.

Very cool! Yes a slick black finish will look very sophisticated. And you can't beat a man at his own game, a pro painter will make a world of difference. I can't wait to see it!


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[martian sunrise]

Looking good!

[RickeyM]

My initial plan was to attempt the spraying myself, a friendly painter at work though has kindly offered his services so it will be done professionally meaning it should be at a far higher standard than I'd achieve. I'm currently thinking a piano black finish would both look nice and tie in well with rest of my kit.

Yes, a piano black finish would look awfully nice. Just be aware that every spec of dust within 3 counties will be drawn to your deck :lol:

[1200reasons]

I got mine done in piano black by a bike painter, in the black that he uses for Harleys

Looks beautiful, but boy does it love dust. Look at it wrong and micro-scratches show up

[Bigman80]

Gun metal grey would look superb.

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[alcarmichael]

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. Comments are helping my motivation.

It was suggested by Russel earlier in the thread that I should cover the whole plinth with automotive glazing - he then went on to comment that he doesn't really need to tell me what to do as I know what I'm doing. Well, he was right with one of these comments!

I have now filled the filling in my filled resin and I still need to fill again. This plinth isn't as flat and true as one would imagine! I need to get it perfectly flat as if I do go ahead with the gloss black finish it will show up any imperfections.

I'm not too fussed about the dust, it will be kept under an acrylic cover to keep most of the dust off. I do like Olivers idea of gunmetal though. Any other thoughts and suggestions please feel free....

Here is where I am at the moment, the plinth seems to have a big dip in it around the pitch slider but this is almost sorted now. One more filling session (I hope)!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170418/18db1ce19496e9c86c4e177d9958ab35.jpg


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[Bigman80]

👍

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[rigger67]

Bronze.
Deep, rich, metallic bronze.
All over.
Would set the silver trim off beautifully :)

[alcarmichael]

Bronze does sound very nice as well. I like this suggestion. A lot.

[Dubster68]

:goodthread:

[rchinn]

Impressive project.

What colour is your room and the rest of your hifi stuff?

Matt black, safest option but looks great. Midnight blue can be cool. In the right space, white would be a great contrast with the black of the 1210.

(Alex your inbox is full.)

[Cycleallday]

Mine got a satin black powder coat and I am very pleased with it.

Nice sheen but not too glossy

Mel

[Qwin]

Make sure you start with a coat of etch primer, designed for Ally/galvanised.

Normal primer filler used in body shops does not stick well to ally die castings, it will easily chip off, along with whatever you have applied on top of it.

You would be amazed how many so called pro's can't be bothered to apply the etch primer, shams the job for a hapeth etc.
It's not so critical on mild steel, but essential on die castings.

[alcarmichael]

Matt black was a consideration, it would go well with my Croft amps. I am though going to stick with my original plan of a gloss black finish.

Thanks for the advice Ken, your work is inspiring!

Sorry to bore you all with another picture which probably looks identical to the previous 2 or 3 I've posted but due to the boredom I've endured filling and sanding, filling and sanding, filling and sanding, it is only fair you all share some of the boredom with me! I am finally happy with the prep work, so now all ready to go to the painter.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170427/4e35efa7dd0cb051f80a6fb45a6cb1bc.jpg

Next step is for me to attempt to build an external DC PSU! [emoji51]


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[alphaGT]

I can't wait to see your finished product! Now you can take the car polish to it! A nice coat of carnauba wax?


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[alcarmichael]

I do have some good quality car polish, it's designed for lighter colours but I'm sure it will do the trick, followed by some carnauba wax :thumbsup:

[alcarmichael]

Well, after a very long wait the painter apparently can no longer paint this for me.

I guess I will be ordering some rattle cans....

[Dubster68]

:wowzer::wowzer:
Thats a pain after the wait to be painted.

[alphaGT]

I'm sure you can make a go of it. At the AutoParts store they've got some very good rattle cans. Once it's painted, go over it with a polish to get that shine, and it can look just as good as if he had painted it.


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[martian sunrise]

buy one of the little spray guns they use to paint models cars.

[alcarmichael]

After a long waste of time more progress has been made. I've bought some rattle cans from Halfords: etch primer, BMW jet black and lacquer.

3 coats of etch primer later:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170728/29f6c219caa6dddb644e7448a978bbe7.jpg


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[Wakefield Turntables]

Thats the spirit!

[alcarmichael]

Wondering whether I should also spray the base to match. Any thoughts...?

[Bigman80]

That's it, just crack on. Itll turn out better than you think

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[CageyH]

Wondering whether I should also spray the base to match. Any thoughts...?

The base is rubber. It won't be easy to paint.
The easiest thing to hide the rubber base will be a plinth.

[alcarmichael]

Yeah this was my concern. I have looked at plastic primer but unsure how well the finish will turn out...


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[walpurgis]

There are special rubber paints, but none are particularly durable. Best left alone in my opinion.

(Just wondering if a vinyl wrap would work?)

[Wakefield Turntables]

Yep leave the rubber base alone they can be hard to source if you dont like the results.

[Qwin]

Just freshen the base up with some Black trim wax.

Rub the primer down LIGHTLY with some 1200 grit (Wet) before applying the colour and do the same before applying the clear lacquer. Cans do not give the best finish and can give an Orange peel finish when multiple coats are applied, flatting it after every few coats will give a better end result. ;)

[Dubster68]

My base was scratched and not very good. I took it off and used soapy water and very fine wet and dry and its now a lovely matt finish. The best way is to make sure you keep the paper wet and only sand backwards and forwards and not circular. Dont paint it as the paint will crack and fail and will look a mess.

[Maouna]

Hi Alex , you can try VHT bumper and trim paint it's quite durable ,I have used it extensively and works very well, plus once painted and installed you won't need to handle it very often . Ps : it only comes in satin black unfortunately . Hope this might help.

[Qwin]

Bumper paint will not handle the softness of the rubber base, if you flex it too much or bump it against something the paint will flake off as it is more rigid than the substrate. The rubber paint mentioned will work, not many people keep it though and difficult to apply (for a good finish) without specialist spray equipment. I've seen it in Black and Red oxide colour, was being used to coat large storage tanks and I begged a small qty but it didn't brush on very well.

If you want to keep it Black, just try the Black trim wax you can buy at most Auto shops, I have rejuvenated many sun bleached rubber parts on classic cars with it. It's cheap, easy to try and if you don't like the result simply remove it with a degreasing agent. I would try this before getting into more complicated and potentially irreversible processes.

A re-plinth would not be that complicated as an alternative.

The main thing is have fun with it and make it unique if possible. :)

[RickeyM]

After a long waste of time more progress has been made. I've bought some rattle cans from Halfords: etch primer, BMW jet black and lacquer.

3 coats of etch primer later:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170728/29f6c219caa6dddb644e7448a978bbe7.jpg


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What you'll need now is patience, patience and more patience. Each time you apply paint or primer, give it a few days to "gas-out" and harden. Maybe even longer with lacquer Then you sand it to prep for the next coat of paint. Since you're going for a gloss black finish you will be doing a copious amount of wet sanding with finer and finer grits of paper. Don't skip steps and you should end up with a fine finish.

[337alant]

Id give that a coat of filler primer on top of that and then rub down

Alan

[alcarmichael]

I think I'll leave the rubber base as is, I've cleaned it up and it looks in pretty good condition. Will consider building a plinth further down the line.

I was going to rub down then spray paint tomorrow, what would a coat of primer in between etch primer and paint help achieve? I'd have no problems just going and buying a tin if Halfords wasn't so bloody far away!

[337alant]

The etch primer is your key into the aluminium and also a barrier coat but its not very thick and you want to leave that coat in tact if you can if you rub it down you will expose that alu in places again.
The filler primer is a high build coating which will fill in any marks scratches and rubs down really easy and very smooth fine finish so makes a great base for the gloss coats

Alan

[alcarmichael]

Thank you for the advice, I will get some primer.

[alphaGT]

Looking great! You'll be spinning records in style in no time!


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[alcarmichael]

I hope so. But I've been distracted:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170812/1e2b0fad85e20d305e4edf8062e99569.jpg


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[Dubster68]

I hope so. But I've been distracted:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170812/1e2b0fad85e20d305e4edf8062e99569.jpg


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:eek::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::D

[alcarmichael]

Back to the turntable:

I've sprayed on 3 coats of filler primer and I'm seeing unevenness between the metal plinth and a small area of the filled pitch slider recess. More prep work required. :doh:

[Qwin]

Are you rubbing down with a block, or just using your fingers?

[alcarmichael]

I sanded the whole plinth with a block, quite unsure how there's any unevenness but there is. I will wait until tomorrow before rubbing down the primer and hope it's not as bad as I feared.

[walpurgis]

Could be the filler shrinking as it cures further. Some do.

[keiron99]

Yes I had that prpoblem on mine. The filler shrank a little it and you can catch it a bit in a certain light.

Perhaps it depends what filler you used? I used proper liquid metal stuff but probably didn't "blend it in" well enough.

[alcarmichael]

Panic over! After sanding back with 800 grit micro-mesh the unevenness has disappeared. Very strange but it seemed as though the primer layered up thicker on top of the filler. After sanding I ended up with a very nice looking plinth in primer:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170825/3b8921cce27f72d01ebd7a156ae41c6d.jpg

I've sprayed on a couple more coats of primer and after more sanding I'm ready for painting. [emoji2]


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[alphaGT]

Looks awesome! And yes, primers are made to fill in the low areas, you're not imagining it. I can't wait to see it all together!


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[6L6]

Looking wonderful! Keep the photos and updates coming!

[RickeyM]

Panic over! After sanding back with 800 grit micro-mesh the unevenness has disappeared. Very strange but it seemed as though the primer layered up thicker on top of the filler. After sanding I ended up with a very nice looking plinth in primer:

I've sprayed on a couple more coats of primer and after more sanding I'm ready for painting. [emoji2]


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Good job! What you're doing now is the most important part of the painting process. A smart man takes no shortcuts here. I'll save the champaign emoji for when you show us the finished job ;)

[alcarmichael]

A bit of a delay as I sanded a little too much on one of the corners and went back to metal. It's only very slight but decided to order more primer. Unfortunately I received an email from Amazon to say there was a delay on the delivery. This is taking aaages.

[alcarmichael]

It’s been a long time coming - for a multitude of reasons - but this happened:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171116/084e9925a4df10c48b1599ccf9f31702.jpg


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[Wakefield Turntables]

Just like mine!

[Dubster68]

Looking good. Its been the longest paint job in history:D Started in April and still ongoing. I hope its been worth the wait Alex:)