wooden speaker stand`s questions

[diviy]

My daughters boyfriend is making me they only need to be 50cm tall .
The choices he has given me is-
birch ply cube
birch ply in a square base and top then the column in a triangler shape
square top and bottom with a railway sleeper as the column
all will have spikes fitted and the first two filled with sand .

So any observation`s and tips what to go for the speakers are Celestion xr15`s

Gerry

[Sherwood]

Are you sure you want such a high mass design? I find high rigidity low mass sounds better for most speakers.

[diviy]

I find high rigidity low mass sounds better for most speakers

So 1 or 2 without sand would work ?
why do people fill there metal stands with ballest then bit confused :scratch::scratch::scratch:

[Sherwood]

A good question! I think in part it an attempt to increase stability. Rigid spiked stands will achieve this. In part it is about damping resonances and vibration. This is often a problem with hollow metal tube stands but less so with wooden braced stands.

Geoff

[Qwin]

Go for an open frame, like a stool with a leg in each corner.

Don't put a top on it, leave it open, but have a leg under each corner of the speaker.

All speaker panels resonate, even the base panel, you want to let this radiate away from your speaker. Supporting in the corners is where the speakers are most rigid and vibrate the least, also the weight is better supported through the vertical cabinet walls. It all helps isolate the speaker from sending vibrations through the stand and into your floor. Worst thing you can do is put the flat bottom of your speaker on to a flat panel of the stand. Spikes help separate the surfaces, but it is better to have it completely open, I've tried both and open is better in my experience.

I've built quite a few stands, some enclosed and sand/shot filled but an open timber frame is the best I have used. My current system uses 300mm stands and has 12" woofers, the open frame stands give terrific clean bass. I have carpet spikes on the bottom of the 3" square legs and 1mm thick hard rubber pads glued to the top to stop the speaker sliding around if it is knocked.

That's my two'peneth on the subject. :)

[Sherwood]

Go for an open frame, like a stool with a leg in each corner.

Don't put a top on it, leave it open, but have a leg under each corner of the speaker.

All speaker panels resonate, even the base panel, you want to let this radiate away from your speaker. Supporting in the corners is where the speakers are most rigid and vibrate the least, also the weight is better supported through the vertical cabinet walls. It all helps isolate the speaker from sending vibrations through the stand and into your floor. Worst thing you can do is put the flat bottom of your speaker on to a flat panel of the stand. Spikes help separate the surfaces, but it is better to have it completely open, I've tried both and open is better in my experience.

I've built quite a few stands, some enclosed and sand/shot filled but an open timber frame is the best I have used. My current system uses 300mm stands and has 12" woofers, the open frame stands give terrific clean bass. I have carpet spikes on the bottom of the 3" square legs and 1mm thick hard rubber pads glued to the top to stop the speaker sliding around if it is knocked.

That's my two'peneth on the subject. :)

Agreed. Depending on the footprint size of your speakers this may be a quick affordable solution.

http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/chairs-stools-benches/stools-benches/oddvar-stool-pine-art-20249330/

I use it inverted with a slightly larger (36cm by 46cm) top made from 18mm MDF screwed into the base of the inverted legs. You may find the original top (i.e. seat) adequate so would only need to attach it to the bottom rather than the top. I also glued all the joints while assembling. Absolutely rigid.

Geoff

[Audio Al]

In part it is about damping resonances and vibration. This is often a problem with hollow metal tube stands

+1 ,you can fill metal stands with polystyrene maggots , helps with this

[Qwin]

In part it is about damping resonances and vibration. This is often a problem with hollow metal tube stands

+1 ,you can fill metal stands with polystyrene maggots , helps with this

I've tried steel stands filled with a variety of things, even filled them with expanding foam which was quite good, but they still ring a little when struck.

Especially if it's a DIY build, I would recommend hardwood, but because your supporting through the end grain, even softwood works well for the legs.

I got my legs cut accurately/squarely to length at my local timber merchant, I used some 30mm dowel for the cross brasses and drilled the legs with a flatbit in a pillar drill. Used the depth stop so the holes were all the same depth and made sure the dowels were all the same length before glueing em in. Tied a couple of cargo straps round overnight while the glue dried and also put the assembly on a flat surface with a board on top of the legs and a very heavy weight on top so the legs set square to the floor (don't rock).

Made the pair in about an hour and a half + setting time.

Painted them with Satin Black Acrylic paint from Wilko the next day, but stain or clear varnish would have worked just as well. :)

[diviy]

Any chance of a pic Geoff got to go to Ikea soon need another rack records spilling all over the place

[Sherwood]

Any chance of a pic Geoff got to go to Ikea soon need another rack records spilling all over the place

19568

this is how I used the Ikea stool. Interesting that the drive units show through with the flash as they are not visible normally.

Geoff

[Sherwood]

19569

Actually, this is a better image. Colour balance on first was off. Speakers are Canadian White Maple finish.

[nthall]

I don't think the weight of the base matters as long as they're stable.

I've had heavy ones that were easy to accidentally knock over, and light ones that would be hard to knock over on purpose.

I think the proper speaker height is more important than what the stands are made out of.

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[struth]

Every speaker is potentially different Resonance wise


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[Sherwood]

Every speaker is potentially different Resonance wise


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The Ikea hack works well. By inverting the stool and screwing into the feet the unit is braced at both ends making it extremely rigid. I have not got around to fitting spikes yet as it is very stable without them. However, I may fit spikes when I get around to painting the stands.