Problem with Rogers jr149 speakers

[Komistar]

This problem was there when I first got them. The right speaker doesn't seem to have any bass compared to the other. I looked inside and both the tags that were riveted to the speaker frame had snapped. But the connection point was still intact. I couldn't find a replacement tag so I glued the tags back onto the frame with the spacer and tried it. It was still the same. Could it just need replacing or is there something that needs fixing.
Alex

[walpurgis]

Measure the coil resistance with a meter. They should measure around 5 ohms. If one is significantly less, it's a dud. Or swap the bass units over and if the problem moves to the other speaker, same thing applies, dud unit. If the problem stays in the original speaker after moving the bass units, it's likely a crossover or connection/joint issue.

[Komistar]

When I took the speaker off it had a label with 8 ohms. When I measured the resistance it came up with 9 ohms.

[walpurgis]

Ah. It's possible Rogers used the 15 ohm specified LS3/5a version of the B110 in those, in which case that figure would be about right. Do both measure the same?

[Komistar]

Yes they both measure the same. I swapped the speakers over and its the same one that doesn't work. What would you recommend, just get new ones? If so where would be the best place to get them.

[walpurgis]

Sounds like you have a knackered driver. They are pretty scarce, but you may get lucky on ebay. It has to be the correct Rogers item though. You could put a 'wanted' ad in the Private Exhibitions section here. Another possibilty is to speak to Falcon Electronics, who market alternative replacement drivers for the LS3/5a speaker. That may entail crossover mods though.

[Light Dependant Resistor]

Yes they both measure the same. I swapped the speakers over and its the same one that doesn't work. What would you recommend, just get new ones? If so where would be the best place to get them.

If they measure the same the drivers are OK, however it is where the tags for external connection attach that the error of one not working is.
Carefully examine how your multimeter was able to measure resistance, and ask yourself why and how is the external connection not doing the same.

If you have a magnifying glass you might be able to see exactly where the problem is. You might have to reattach the spade lug. Other than
that there is disconnection between the driver and the crossover board. Undoing the bottom plate, you will either have a Type 1 or Type 2
crossover. post an image or two which will help us help you. There is likely a broken wire between the crossover and the driver or its the lug
on the driver itself.

[Komistar]

The wire coming out the speaker looks like it's attached properly. The only visible problem on it is the connector that isn't held on with the rivet. The crossover board seems fine.

[Komistar]

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/Kom1star/image_zpsq5ez69qe.jpeg (http://s1149.photobucket.com/user/Kom1star/media/image_zpsq5ez69qe.jpeg.html)

[Komistar]

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/Kom1star/image_zpsvkvj5dx9.jpeg (http://s1149.photobucket.com/user/Kom1star/media/image_zpsvkvj5dx9.jpeg.html)

[Komistar]

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/Kom1star/image_zpsgpckmzlv.jpeg (http://s1149.photobucket.com/user/Kom1star/media/image_zpsgpckmzlv.jpeg.html)

[Komistar]

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/Kom1star/image_zpsng4sfk40.jpeg (http://s1149.photobucket.com/user/Kom1star/media/image_zpsng4sfk40.jpeg.html)

[Komistar]

I have test the wire that connects the speaker to the crossover board and it's fine. The crossover board is fine because it works with the other speaker. The speaker does make a noise but doesn't have as much bass as the other. The centre of the cone seems to be held in with a rubbery epoxy that covers the cone and is lifted up a bit, would this cause a problem? Where could I get new spade lugs to put on it.