Heybrook TT2 upgrades/improvement.

[Mikeandvan]

Hi all, I have a Heybrook TT2 with Origin live Silver mk3 arm (latest version), and currently broken Ortofon Rondo red (cantilever is bent). It is bog standard. I like the turntable, feel no need to change it for another belt drive as yet. Its in nice condition, so was just wondering if anyone could recommend what maintenance I should carry out, or what upgrades would be suitable. It has the standard on board power supply, so I guess upgrading that would be the first choice? Was thinking Heed orbit (as its the only one I know!), or old Valhalla? Apart from that I'm not sure there's much else. Just purchased a TT shelf to place it, as I have suspended floors, nightmare with suspended decks! No problem thought with my 1210! Thanks.

[nuff]

Hi Mike.

Ive had 2 TT2's and was very happy with them. The only bugbear for me was the removing the platter every time I wanted to play a 45rpm. In the end I changed the power supply for an Origin Live motor kit.
http://www.originlive.com/dc-motor-kit/turntable-motor-linn-thorens.html

I also re-plinthed mine but that was only for aesthetic reasons, it did look nice tho. Shame I sold it :(
Here's a link to what I did to mine. http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?33160-Heybrook-TT2-walnut-plinth

Good luck and enjoy yours!

[Mikeandvan]

Hi Mike.

Ive had 2 TT2's and was very happy with them. The only bugbear for me was the removing the platter every time I wanted to play a 45rpm. In the end I changed the power supply for an Origin Live motor kit.
http://www.originlive.com/dc-motor-kit/turntable-motor-linn-thorens.html

I also re-plinthed mine but that was only for aesthetic reasons, it did look nice tho. Shame I sold it :(
Here's a link to what I did to mine. http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?33160-Heybrook-TT2-walnut-plinth

Good luck and enjoy yours!

Thanks Nuff, I have looked at your thread before, lovely job you did. Does the Origin Live motor kit enable change of speed without lifting the platter? Think I will put some new feet on my TT2 aswell, I have an origin live thin mat, and just bought a new TT shelf. Could probably do with checking the bearing. Thanks, Mike.

[nuff]

Thanks Nuff, I have looked at your thread before, lovely job you did. Does the Origin Live motor kit enable change of speed without lifting the platter? Think I will put some new feet on my TT2 aswell, I have an origin live thin mat, and just bought a new TT shelf. Could probably do with checking the bearing. Thanks, Mike.

Hi Mike.
Yes, the motor kit allows you to change the speed with the knob on the front. You fine tune the speed at the back to get it running correct. There very small adjustable screws,1 for both speeds.
I used a funk firm achromat on mine and thought it sounded excellent.
As for feet, I changed mine back to the small rubber type after a while.

Have fun!
Nathan.

[Mikeandvan]

Thanks Nuff.

[mimoser]

tbh there is nothing much to improve in a TT2:
- must get a rigid arm (which you seem to have done)
- might put it on a shelf (not really necessary)
- might use a Heed Orbit 2 (for convenience, personally I doubt it sounds "better")
for more information you should read the thread below (if not already done). It will tell you a lot about making an LP12 "sing", less about the TT2 as it is not that prone to react to tinkering :D
http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?3032-Heybrook-TT2-vs-Linn-LP12-(A-B-comparison-almost)&highlight=heybrook+linn
hth
Michael

[AlfaGTV]

You got yerself a splendid tt, mate! I have also had two TT2's which are on display early in my Gallery thread.
My early example got itself a Valhalla PSU which i thought made a noticeable difference in ways i didn't expect. :) But i believe a modern Majik-board would be a nice upgrade from the Valhalla of olde.
If im not mistaken, even 45rpm could be selected from the button?

My other TT2 was a more recent model with the Tim DeParavicini designed external PSU and speedcontroller. It was a more "correct" sounding spinner but both of them made music from all sorts of stuff.

I could easily live with either, whether fettled or bog standard!

[shane]

As hinted above, the only areas for improvement without totally rebuilding from the ground up are the PSU and motor. I can't make any specific recommendations as I've not tried any mods myself.

In in the unlikely event that yours is one of the first hundred or so that had adjustable feet in the corners of the plinth, bin them and replace with solid rubber feet, one in each front corner an one to the left of the motor cutout (as seen from the front) along the rear edge.

Maintenance is largely a matter of making sure that the bearing is clean and oiled (use a light machine oil, rather than motor or gearbox oil, which are both full of additives), and making sure the suspension setup and cable dressing are giving an even bounce with no rotation.

Got any photos?

[DSJR]

Not a fan at all of OL tonearms, and I'd probably have suggested a top line Rega arm instead, which all improve on the ubiquitous cheaper ones in every way.

Does the deck have the tubular sub-chassis or the later aluminium one? I preferred the aluminium one as it sounded less coloured to me, and an external power supply, which Heybrook offered at the end, sorted the speed-change ease issue and by this time, I felt the deck was in the top class for springy belt drives. of course, it could never be seen to approach the fruitbox in the 80's, but later ones were at least as good imo...

[shane]

I think you're right about the alloy chassis being less coloured, Dave, but I still find myself preferring the steel chassis. Yes there's s bit of bass bloom, but it scores better on coherence and what I suppose I have to call PRaT. To me, it zips along to the music that little bit better.

[Mikeandvan]

Pics of my TT2. Thanks to all who replied to thread. Still not sure whether I'd see a significant improvement in 'upgrading' the power supply, would a Valhalla be worth it, seems the cheapest option.

[mimoser]

one more question:
are you sure your platter runs true to the plinth?
To my old eyes it looks as if the suspension is a little low on the rear end of the tonearm to avoid a lid fouling the counterweight …

re Heed Orbit:
an Orbit 2 simply plugs between TT2 and wall socket. You might need a short converter cable to keep the original plug. So this would be a simple and easily reversible mod. I suggest you try to find a preloved Orbit 2 for near half the price, as I did …

;-))
Michael

[Mikeandvan]

one more question:
are you sure your platter runs true to the plinth?
To my old eyes it looks as if the suspension is a little low on the rear end of the tonearm to avoid a lid fouling the counterweight …

re Heed Orbit:
an Orbit 2 simply plugs between TT2 and wall socket. You might need a short converter cable to keep the original plug. So this would be a simple and easily reversible mod. I suggest you try to find a preloved Orbit 2 for near half the price, as I did …

;-))
Michael

Hi, the platter looks wonky to me too, how do I fix?

[mimoser]

to do it according to the book:
grab a digital copy of the TT2 manual at http://www.vinylengine.com/library/heybrook/tt2.shtml

basically

!!! never overtighten the suspension of a TT2 !!!
… a previous owner of my TT2 crushed one of the lower grommets and I was extremely fortunate and grateful to be able to source an original spare …

not that they crush easily, but first try to loosen the tension on the hex nut where the platter rides highest

1) level the plinth with a spirit level.
2) grab a hex key and insert it into the hex nut front right and set the clearance at the front of the platter to approx 3mm (lower platter to 3mm clearance)
3) transfer the spirit level atop the platter
4) insert the hex key into the hex nut middle left and adjust tension to level platter
5) proceed with hex nut rear right accordingly
6) proceed clockwise (or counterclockwise) until satisfied
7) gingerly fit lid if desired
8) unclamp tonearm
9) carefully lower lid continuously checking for impact on counterweight – if so the front of the tonearm will move upwards

Using a taller cartridge (Stanton 681) a standard RB250 counterweight will not fit underneath a clear (LP12) lid; it might fit under the smoked TT2 lid, but you will not really be able to verify this by sight due to the opacity of the lid.
A small tungsten weight from an RB300 will fit, but not balance a heavy cart, eg said Stanton 681,
an expressimo heavyweight or similar cw will fit and balance heavier carts.
I never tried a Michell tecnoweight, as I suspect not enough clearance to the right between tonearm pivot and inner lid when playing …

hth
Michael

[Mikeandvan]

Thanks very much for that Michael, I have an Origin Live silver on mine, so I cannot use a lid, which is a PITA !

[shane]

Once you've got the platter level, if the arm still fouls the lid, slacken off all three suspension bolts by one complete turn. This will lower the complete chassis/platter without afffecting levelling. You can get away with about 2mm clearance between the top of the plinth and the platter.

if I was doing it again, I'd probably make the top surface of the plinth level with the surround, but it wouldn't look as good. It was a shame we couldn't afford a bespoke lid for the TT2, but the cost of an injection moulding tool was around ten times the total development budget for the whole turntable! There's a reason why everyone used the Linn lid, and Linn themselves started off buying lids in from Lenco before commissioning their own, so most British turntables from the 70s and 80s ended up about the same size as a GL75.