SME 3009 tonearm dash "pod" arm lift "pod" dismantle Q?

[tlscapital]

Help/advices appreciated really. Ever since I own that SME tonearm, I wanted to get rid of that odd "pod". First because I never use the arm lift. I use my thumb on the headshell "horn/ear" to lift and drop the needle. And I don't really like the original SME arm rest (even though it looks elegant and slender), it really is not convenient for me and my 45's selector way of playing continuous sessions.

So I've bought an old Lenco 100% vertically adjustable arm rest to replace the "shaggy" wand original SME one. Now I've unscrewed the original long wand and I've placed it with the Lenco one. It is sturdy as intended and it looks smashing IMHO. Also I feel much safer as it requires less caution to drop-down the arm in it's resting "saddle" instead of the old sliding sideway. And when the record is over, I don't have to deal with the lock (metal, translucide or black plastic ones) that always comes in the way when I come back to rest the tonearm in it. That was really annoying as possible.

Since I plan to do some last changes to my hybrid upgraded Thorens turntable I will try to dismantle that arm lift & rest "pod" without damaging the SME tonearm wiring and solders at the same time. I've only dismantle it once to convert it (was "Improved") into heavy mass one and detachable headshell. So haven't touch the rest yet.

The way I see how to do it for me is to dismantle the SME 3009 S II from it's base and shield. Unscrew the VTA "level" neckless and do the same with the arm rest & lift "pod". Then slide them both down and pass them through the 4 pins connector of the tonearm cable at the other end of the wires.

180581805918060

Does that sounds right ?

Thanks in advance, Tim

[tlscapital]

OK, now I understand that arm rest & lift pot assembly (pod) is screwed onto the pillar tube. My question now is simpler; can I unscrew it DOWN so I can just pass it through the wires and original 4 pins connectors without having to break any of the wire's solders ?

Or do I have to dismantle the whole pillar structure and break the wires solders to unscrew the arm rest & lift assembly UP ? There taking the risk to mess up the pillar tube remounting...

[CornishPasty]

If you remove the allen screw from the lift/lower, arm rest ring there may be enough of a gap in the ring for the wires to pass through. Remove the snap ring from the bottom of the pillar then lift the pillar up out of the sliding base. Screw the ring downwards over the wires then slip the wires through the gap in the ring once the allen screw has been removed. I've never attempted to do it that way before but I've just been in the workshop and pulled out an old 3009 and had a quick look at it seems possible as long as the wires are long enough. I hope that makes some sense.

[tlscapital]

Thanks a lot for that Ralph, so I will very gently try to force to unscrew DOWN the assembly on the pillar tube as I first tried, only then without success... it was most very likely "gripped" some. Even with the 'tightener bolt' of the lift/lower arm rest removed out of it's hole. I might drop in some WD-40 to help it slide down. Now at least I know what way to go ! I'll do that on a "good" day so I won't have to challenge my luck and avoid to break any of the wire's solders.

[CornishPasty]

The threaded ring will go right down to the bottom of the pillar. If the threaded ring is still tight on the pillar threads after you've removed the bolt you can spread the gap a bit with a suitable tool.

[tlscapital]

The threaded ring will go right down to the bottom of the pillar. If the threaded ring is still tight on the pillar threads after you've removed the bolt you can spread the gap a bit with a suitable tool.

I did try to spread the gap the first time but it did nothing or about... I need to get the arm lift & rest assembly off clean ! So I can try and sell it on to fund a tailor-made stainless steel top-plate for my Thorens now totally 'Hybrid' turntable. Even if that will come only once I'll have acquire a PSU & tachometer (it's pricey though) and got ridden of the 'on/off - 33/45 rpm' switch.

[CornishPasty]

I've had one SME tonearm that had rust on these threads. Some WD40 and left overnight should do it.

[tlscapital]

I've had one SME tonearm that had rust on these threads. Some WD40 and left overnight should do it.

Phew, I finally did it. It took few spays of WD-40 all together. And as I'm due I manage to break one wire. Oh well, they were the cheap basic (2nd hand) things and I've been thinking seriously to get better (silver'N'stuffs) ones anyway. So here I go for some "expenses" and more solders... I hope I will be able to enjoy that last "inner the turntable" improvement bit !

[tlscapital]

Anyone would happen to know how to take the "shoulders" of the wand ? I tried pulling but it's holding on strong and I don't want to damage anything there. I believe it's just bent inside the two holes but that is maybe not only...
18141

[CornishPasty]

Did you manage to remove the lift clip? I seem to remember it's made of spring steel and the clips that go around tube really do get hold.

[tlscapital]

Did you manage to remove the lift clip? I seem to remember it's made of spring steel and the clips that go around tube really do get hold.

Hi Ralph, no I haven't dare to try since. The mail-man dropped the "HifiCollective" tonearm copper wire in my mail box an hour ago and I w ill do the re-wiring of the tonearm either today or tomorrow. Then I will see if I want to dismantle the wand from it's knife edge bearing and spider counter weight and ride weight holder... Maybe if there, I will see if I can lift the "clips" from inside or not ! Otherwise, I'll cut it down !

[tlscapital]

Did you manage to remove the lift clip? I seem to remember it's made of spring steel and the clips that go around tube really do get hold.

Hi Ralph, so my copper Litz tonearm wires (from HifiCollective) arrived in my mail yesterday morning and my solder friend dropped by in the afternoon to do the work. We also attempted to "take off" the "shoulders" from the wand and, in the end we succeed. We broke the "horns/shoulders" holding on to them to pull. Shame since I hate waste and would have sell or give it to someone after such a piece. But we got the "braces" out also afterwards and now my SME 3009 look sexier than ever.

While that rewiring was necessary (old, second or third hand, then broken by me...), I can sleep now without dreaming about a "to do or not". I had to work some more than usual after that very tweak to re-adjust everything about and around the tonearm (alignement, VTA/SRA...). By now, it sounds about right and/or even a tiny bit too "bright"... I will need some more listening time to "visualise" and likely do some more adjustment trials...

[tlscapital]

Did you manage to remove the lift clip? I seem to remember it's made of spring steel and the clips that go around tube really do get hold.


To end this thread here is my closing report on the outcome and end of this brief anxiety chapter. The new Litz copper (NOT PURE SILVER !) tonearm wires bought at the 'HifiCollective' arrived Tuesday morning and so we did finalize the re-wiring of the tonearm in the evening.

While the tonearm was dismantled we proceed by force-pushing the wand "shoulders" out. They were just clipped-in actually. It's "horns/ears" broke but now that last bit of the arm lift and dash pot are out of my sight. Now after few tweaks, readjustment on the VTA, alignement and headshell level, I got back my sound.

It's a little bit clearer than with the original SME wires, but not to become too "bright". I'm rather happy with the 'HifiCollective' service for the second time. Once again, they took the time to read, understand my phono system and my needs accordingly. They advice me with a fitting good quality component at a decent price. Thumbs up !

[CornishPasty]

Good effort. I'm glad you're happy with the results.