My SL1210 MKII - Is a significant improvement in SQ still possible ?

[worrasf]

So this is what I've done to date:

Mike New bearing bonded to chassis
Vantage external PSU
Vantage main board upgrade
Vantage feet
Removed strobe and pitch fader
Funk platter and bonded achromat
Jelco 750 - Timestep armboard/ Shuggie collar / J7 Cardas rewire / Isokinetik Silver Melody heavy counterweight
Oyaide carbon headshells
Croft headamp with Croft external PSU (as per the 25R)
Goldbug Mr Brier / Northwest Analogue DL103


Is it possible to upgrade/change any of these components and get a significant audible improvement in SQ - not just subtle nuances? I know "significant" is all relative but I'm sure you all know what I mean

I should say I am totally happy with the deck as it is now and don't have an itch to scratch I was just wondering philosophically If I had (diminishing returns) come to the end of the realistic upgrade path? I can't think of anything that would make financial/sonic sense TBH.

Steve

[Wakefield Turntables]

Budget please?

[worrasf]

Budget please?

No budget figure as it's all relative and that's where my "bang for buck" equation comes into play.
If the only upgrade is "silly money" then it will make me stay and if and when I want something "better" I'll buy a completely new TT.

[Spectral Morn]

So this is what I've done to date:

Mike New bearing bonded to chassis
Vantage external PSU
Vantage main board upgrade
Vantage feet
Removed strobe and pitch fader
Funk platter and bonded achromat
Jelco 750 - Timestep armboard/ Shuggie collar / J7 Cardas rewire / Isokinetik Silver Melody heavy counterweight
Oyaide carbon headshells
Croft headamp with Croft external PSU (as per the 25R)
Goldbug Mr Brier / Northwest Analogue DL103


Is it possible to upgrade/change any of these components and get a significant audible improvement in SQ - not just subtle nuances? I know "significant" is all relative but I'm sure you all know what I mean

I should say I am totally happy with the deck as it is now and don't have an itch to scratch I was just wondering philosophically If I had (diminishing returns) come to the end of the realistic upgrade path? I can't think of anything that would make financial/sonic sense TBH.

Steve

Yes Steve, if you haven't tried the Isonoe feet then try them. I have tried the Vantage feet (really the same as the Origin Live ones) and in my experience these cause a drop in quality over the Isonoes.

The other Vantage upgrades I can't comment on, and its a shame Vantage went the way it appears to have, you were lucky getting your deck done and back again, seems a number of folks are still trying to, to no avail.

I think the Oyaide MJ12 mat sounds better than the Funk mat, but money wise the Funk offers a lot for little money. A mk1 Funk platter would be a nice option (used market only), I don't think the mk2 would suit your deck and its very expensive.

The deck as is would do justice to a much dearer arm, and the Briar would certainly benefit, unlocking more of its magic. Some folks rate the wooden armboards, but I have no experience of them so can't comment.

[worrasf]

Thank you Neil.
I actually had a set of isonoe's back in the day - I swapped them for the vantage ones when Richard came over to fit the new PSU as I felt they "firmed things up a bit". I have the Mk1 Funk platter/Achromat.

So to tonearms - what to choose bearing in mind I am sticking with the Brier? For no other reason than laziness it would be nice if a new arm had Linn mounting to save on a new armboard (nit picking) - perhaps a PU7?

Steve

[Ammonite Audio]

Thank you Neil.
I actually had a set of isonoe's back in the day - I swapped them for the vantage ones when Richard came over to fit the new PSU as I felt they "firmed things up a bit". I have the Mk1 Funk platter/Achromat.

So to tonearms - what to choose bearing in mind I am sticking with the Brier? For no other reason than laziness it would be nice if a new arm had Linn mounting to save on a new armboard (nit picking) - perhaps a PU7?

Steve

Your armboard will be cut for the Jelco's spindle-pivot distance of 214mm, which is different from Linn's 211mm, so not strictly swappable even though the tonearm mount is similar. That said, Johnnie at Audio Origami will make a PU7 to whatever geometry you choose. I believe that his new Uni-Arm is pretty good and may be worth trying out - certainly its physical quality is amazing.

[worrasf]

Your armboard will be cut for the Jelco's spindle-pivot distance of 214mm, which is different from Linn's 211mm,
Yes Hugo - I realised this on the way home this evening - :doh:
I may drop J7 an email and ask his advice.

Steve

[worrasf]

The Brier also has integral headshell so any new arm needs to be the detachable headshell type


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