Marantz CD94mkII problems and solutions. Owners please lend a hand.

[baguadao]

I have an old Marantz CD94mkII.

Whenever it can red then it can play.

The problem is that when I put in a CD it will close but not read and so it will open. SO ia have to close/play but it will still open for as many as 10 , 15 or more times that I give up and switch it off.

The next day 9 out of 10 time it will read when I switch on and therefore it will play.

I am no techie.
As it can play when it can read there my conclusion is that the Laser Pick-Up is working! As the Laser Pick-Up is not a swing arm then it has nothing to do with the Laser Pick-Up.

I suspect; I may be wrong, on these perceptions:

1) The end of the disc plate or the wall that the disc plate touches when it closes are both sticky or one being sticky so that it is stuck and does not sit properly as it should and therefore not aligned for the Laser Pick-up to read. It takes time for it to get unstuck and sit properly.

2) The 2 shafts on either side where the plate travel in and out or whatever mechanism that brings it in and out is worn out through wear and tear over the years.

I believe all owners face this problem.

I believe current owners of this old equipment can advise and share with all what can be done to rectify this cd player. Please don't tell me to throw it away as I like the sound quality.

What I do is to play the same cd many times over several days to enjoy the music before I venture to put in a new cd and I repeat the struggle to make it play again.

Owners kindly chip in . Can I invite Dalek Supreme D.L. for advise too. Thank you very much.

[sq225917]

It's the belt or the geared wheel that closes the drawer. If the drawer doesn't fully close there's a small tilt switch that tells the servo to reopen the door.

[DSJR]

In addition to the above,make sure the drawer will shut quickly and smoothly without binding. My machine, based on the CD94mk1, had the drawer clumped accidentally when it was open. The result - refusal to close sometimes, sluggish behaviour and general loading malaise. I needed to re-align it all PLUS the two belts changed as mentioned above. Now, the drawer flies open and can catch me out on closing if I'm not really careful.

[struth]

as above, its either jumped a cog(often happens if the drawer has jammed due to something sticky dripped in drawer front, or banged when opening) I usually catch the drawer when its ejecting and pull it out a bit extra when its at full out. it will take a bit of effoert and it will come out a couple of mil extra. this often fixes it. The pioneer dvd players like the 717/737's are very prone to it. if it has belts then its worth checking them for tenseness too. if they are a little loose then replace them too. sometimes its just a belt, but worth checking the first..ps remember to clean and dry the stickyness if any

[DSJR]

Cog? COG? :lol:

I think the CD94 in both marques used the Philips CDM-1 mech, one of the best they ever made. This used an elastically mounted cast mech frame, fitted to a solid outer assembly, which held the drawer and separate clamp assembly. The drawer and clamp parts were all belt driven and the metal drawer was swept in and out by a tuning-dial style fine steel line, a micro-switch then telling the closed drawer to stop and then activate the separate clamp. A far cry from the all plastic affair of the lower cost transports they made after this..

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q8/DSJR_photos/DSCF1375.jpg (http://s132.photobucket.com/user/DSJR_photos/media/DSCF1375.jpg.html)

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q8/DSJR_photos/DSCF1376.jpg (http://s132.photobucket.com/user/DSJR_photos/media/DSCF1376.jpg.html)

[baguadao]

It's the belt or the geared wheel that closes the drawer. If the drawer doesn't fully close there's a small tilt switch that tells the servo to reopen the door.


But the belts have been changed over a year ago. The OPEN and CLOSE movement are strong and as I can see. Are you saying I should try to change the belts again.

By the way; separately , which vendor is reliable for CD94mkII belts ?

There are times when the tray does not open when I press OPEN so to "trick" it I put my finger against the fron of the tray as I press the OPEN button and it helps !

[baguadao]

In addition to the above,make sure the drawer will shut quickly and smoothly without binding. My machine, based on the CD94mk1, had the drawer clumped accidentally when it was open. The result - refusal to close sometimes, sluggish behaviour and general loading malaise. I needed to re-align it all PLUS the two belts changed as mentioned above. Now, the drawer flies open and can catch me out on closing if I'm not really careful.


Can you explain what is a "CLUMPED" situation ?

How do you "re-align" ? Does it require a qualified technician to "re-align" it or can a newbie do it ?

Which are the 2 belts to be changed.Are they easy to change without taking out the drive or dismantle anything except the cover. Thanks for sharing.

[baguadao]

as above, its either jumped a cog(often happens if the drawer has jammed due to something sticky dripped in drawer front, or banged when opening) I usually catch the drawer when its ejecting and pull it out a bit extra when its at full out. it will take a bit of effoert and it will come out a couple of mil extra. this often fixes it. The pioneer dvd players like the 717/737's are very prone to it. if it has belts then its worth checking them for tenseness too. if they are a little loose then replace them too. sometimes its just a belt, but worth checking the first..ps remember to clean and dry the stickyness if any

Ok will try to catch the drawer and pull it out a bit when it opens.

On the 3rd point the "stickiness" how do I as a newbie clean and dry the stickiness ?

Thanks for sharing.

[struth]

Depends where it is and what it is. I dont know the drawer mech as it seems it could be a philips cdm1. That could be all thats wrong tbh. If its beverage or jam etc then just the way you would normally ie a warm slightly damp sponge. (Machine off). If its something like oil then you might have to use you initiative. I probably wouldnt bother the pulling bit if its a cogless drive. If its a type of oil then you would need to find out where it came from,as that may have a connection to the problem. Other stickyness you can get is belt breakdown. The rubber turns to a gooy black mess.. Thats hard to get rid of and all pulleys etc have to be cleaned and belts replaced again, if when originally replaced the pulley were not cleaned properly.. These are just possibles not being there. Alcohol is best cleaner. Isopropyl.

[agk]

Ying, please don't grab, push or pull the drawer. As has been said, there are no cogs in this mechanism.
Find a legitimate repair person and have them do it as it is quite clear you haven't a clue and will damage your wonderful CDP.
The fault you describe is belt related. There are four belts in the CDM1 used in a CD94mkII.

http://www.dutchaudioclassics.nl/img/info/marantz/marantz-cd94mk2/thumb/marantz-cd94-mk2-037.jpg

If you have not replaced all four then the drawer will not function properly.

[baguadao]

Ying, please don't grab, push or pull the drawer. As has been said, there are no cogs in this mechanism.
Find a legitimate repair person and have them do it as it is quite clear you haven't a clue and will damage your wonderful CDP.
The fault you describe is belt related. There are four belts in the CDM1 used in a CD94mkII.

http://www.dutchaudioclassics.nl/img/info/marantz/marantz-cd94mk2/thumb/marantz-cd94-mk2-037.jpg

If you have not replaced all four then the drawer will not function properly.

Thanks Andrew.

So I will not grab the tray because there are no cogs.

Regarding the 4 belts I had them change and within a year this problem cropped up and when I asked the local agent the cause I was told that as this eaipment is over 20 years old there are wear and tear which affect the alignment of the moving parts.

So if I change the belts again will the problem be solved or are there other causes that other owners of CD94mkII are aware off and can assist.

Thank you.

[baguadao]

In addition to the above,make sure the drawer will shut quickly and smoothly without binding. My machine, based on the CD94mk1, had the drawer clumped accidentally when it was open. The result - refusal to close sometimes, sluggish behaviour and general loading malaise. I needed to re-align it all PLUS the two belts changed as mentioned above. Now, the drawer flies open and can catch me out on closing if I'm not really careful.

I have experienced same problem and I ad to give it a gentle nudge of the finger to enable it to close by itself.

Would you be kind to share the procedure on how to realign it so that I can clue the repair technician as their expertise is limited in view that my country has a small population and such machines are rare and therefore repairs are few and far in between.

It would also assist other owners to resolve the age old problem.

Separately for the current value of a mk2, is there any cd player out there ,new or old , with comparable sound quality ?


Thank you.

[Macca]

Separately for the current value of a mk2, is there any cd player out there ,new or old , with comparable sound quality ?


Thank you.

My view is that CD players differ only on two factors - the quality of the sound and its presentation. Quality is down to the amount of attention paid to the power supplies and analogue output stage, presentation is how they 'voiced' it. Marantz have a deserved rep for being slightly 'euphonic' in presentation so if you were to get a player of equivalent quality it may not have the voicing that you like/are accustomed too. So you might want to look at other high-end Marantz players. If you want to keep the quality and go for a more neutral presentation then there are the fancier Sony ES players to consider. My personal favourite is the Technics SLP1200 broadcast varient - like listening to the master tape and quite frightening dynamically. But they are rare and getting a broken one fixed is pretty much an impossibility.

[agk]

Re-alignment looks to be the answer but as for how its done I can't tell you Ying.
I would suggest having a go yourself if you are competent and confident.

I shall have a study of the available pictures and look for clues then get back to you. Chances are it is fairly simple.

[baguadao]

Re-alignment looks to be the answer but as for how its done I can't tell you Ying.
I would suggest having a go yourself if you are competent and confident.

I shall have a study of the available pictures and look for clues then get back to you. Chances are it is fairly simple.

Thanks Andrew.

Will await tour pics and procedure on Re-aningment.

In the 1st pic by DSJR, What are the functions of the 2 belts.
Where are the other 2 belts as there are 4 belts altogether.

I like to DIY but I am no techie.

It appears if I need only to open the top cover of the CDP I can change the shorter belt attached to the big wheel on the right. As for the longer belt; no way as there is a steel string obstructing access.

There are audiophiles like Christiaan Punter and Dalek Supreme DL. who are very familiar with cd94mk2
but we have yet to have the benefit of their knowledge on problem solving of this cdp. I am sure there are other owners who have experience and hope they will spend time to share.

Yesterday 31July16 I failed in an auction for one on ebay.de

[agk]

The four belts are visible in the picture I posted.

Had a quick look around the Go Ogle early this morning after posting here and you may also want to look at http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/141897-marantz-cd94-mk2-disc-ejecting.html

The last two posts in particular may have clues.

[Spectral Morn]

I have experienced same problem and I ad to give it a gentle nudge of the finger to enable it to close by itself.

Would you be kind to share the procedure on how to realign it so that I can clue the repair technician as their expertise is limited in view that my country has a small population and such machines are rare and therefore repairs are few and far in between.

It would also assist other owners to resolve the age old problem.

Separately for the current value of a mk2, is there any cd player out there ,new or old , with comparable sound quality ?


Thank you.

No, only another CD94mk2 or at a push a CD85, which isn't quite as good. The CD80 some folks feel is as good and a bit better.

A CD7 is the ultimate expression of this sound quality.

My CD94 mk2 had the same problem a little while ago, the engineer I use for audio repairs fixed it easily, belt replacement, job done.

[Spectral Morn]

Thanks Andrew.

Will await tour pics and procedure on Re-aningment.

In the 1st pic by DSJR, What are the functions of the 2 belts.
Where are the other 2 belts as there are 4 belts altogether.

I like to DIY but I am no techie.

It appears if I need only to open the top cover of the CDP I can change the shorter belt attached to the big wheel on the right. As for the longer belt; no way as there is a steel string obstructing access.

There are audiophiles like Christiaan Punter and Dalek Supreme DL. who are very familiar with cd94mk2
but we have yet to have the benefit of their knowledge on problem solving of this cdp. I am sure there are other owners who have experience and hope they will spend time to share.

Yesterday 31July16 I failed in an auction for one on ebay.de

I am flattered to have my name mentioned, yes I know a bit, mainly sound quality wise but re the mechanics of a CDM1 I am not a technician. When my CD94 mk2 developed the drawer loading issue I passed to an audio engineer I trust, who fixed it. My CD7 also developed a drawer loading issue, he fixed that too.

[Tweedle-Dee]

Hi Ying,
I would also strongly encourage you to find a competent technician to change the belts. The longer belt behind the wire pulley moves the drawer in and out and the plastic wheel has to be carefully moved to provide access and tension maintained on the wire whilst a new belt is installed; very tricky indeed. The belts on the other side control the CD clamping mechanism and also require some disassembly. I have successfully done all of this several times, but in the knowledge that Neil knows a skilled technician, I doubt I will attempt again.

I hope you get this fabulous player fixed soon.

Kind regards,
TD

[baguadao]

No, only another CD94mk2 or at a push a CD85, which isn't quite as good. The CD80 some folks feel is as good and a bit better.

A CD7 is the ultimate expression of this sound quality.

My CD94 mk2 had the same problem a little while ago, the engineer I use for audio repairs fixed it easily, belt replacement, job done.


So the culprit of the drawer OPENING and CLOSING and not reading when it should is all because of the 4 belts !

No wonder someone ; Beobloke Trade: Magazine Journalis,l said on 18-03-2010, 18:01 http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?5758-Your-Three-Most-Loved-Digital-Sources/page3&highlight=reimyo+cdp


" Marantz CD94. I love it for its sound, but not the fact that it gets through a set of belts every 18 months or so. "


So can I therefore assume that the Laser Pick-up is not faulty at all because of the fact that once it can read then it is able to play ? Whenever my set can read it can play . Sometimes I need to try many times, sometimes I give up and try a few hours later or if not successful I power it on the next day or 2 and often it reads and therefore played beautiful music.

So do we conclude that the solution to drawer malaise can only be solved by changing the 4 belts ?

Thank you Neil for your contribution.

[baguadao]

Hi Ying,
I would also strongly encourage you to find a competent technician to change the belts. The longer belt behind the wire pulley moves the drawer in and out and the plastic wheel has to be carefully moved to provide access and tension maintained on the wire whilst a new belt is installed; very tricky indeed. The belts on the other side control the CD clamping mechanism and also require some disassembly. I have successfully done all of this several times, but in the knowledge that Neil knows a skilled technician, I doubt I will attempt again.

I hope you get this fabulous player fixed soon.

Kind regards,
TD

Hi David (Tweedle-Dee) I was waiting for you to come in to help.Thank you for clarifying on the functions of the 4 belts.

You do also own a CD85 and CD94 modified with S2 crowns ! How are they compared to CD94mkII ?

TDA1541A S2 crowns are expensive and not easy to come by. If I can get hold of 2 of them , can a technician replace the 2 S1 without doing any other modifications ?

I have 2 cd94mk2. One is black and the other is champagne. The black was sent for belt replacement ( belts I bought off Ebay Germany) about 2 years ago and it came back sounding not as good as before. Although I have not played the same Cd on both of them before to compare their sound because I assumed they ought to be as good as the other because they are of the same brand and model.The agent told me the 4 belts were change without having to open the CDM1. What he meant by that I have no idea.
So I wonder if belt change could have changed the sound. Anyone any idea on this change in sound ?

The champagne piece SQ is superior to the black piece. Now the belts are getting lazy. I have not changed it since I bought it as it was working though not ideally. It was purchased before the black piece. Seems I that have to get the belts changed by a technician.

[Spectral Morn]

So the culprit of the drawer OPENING and CLOSING and not reading when it should is all because of the 4 belts !

No wonder someone ; Beobloke Trade: Magazine Journalis,l said on 18-03-2010, 18:01 http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?5758-Your-Three-Most-Loved-Digital-Sources/page3&highlight=reimyo+cdp


" Marantz CD94. I love it for its sound, but not the fact that it gets through a set of belts every 18 months or so. "


So can I therefore assume that the Laser Pick-up is not faulty at all because of the fact that once it can read then it is able to play ? Whenever my set can read it can play . Sometimes I need to try many times, sometimes I give up and try a few hours later or if not successful I power it on the next day or 2 and often it reads and therefore played beautiful music.

So do we conclude that the solution to drawer malaise can only be solved by changing the 4 belts ?

Thank you Neil for your contribution.

I think every 18 months is a bit off, mine didn't need them replaced until about a year ago, it had run flawlessly since new. It probably isn't the laser, but a competent engineer should be able to suss all that out.

You are welcome.

[Yomanze]

Hi David (Tweedle-Dee) I was waiting for you to come in to help.Thank you for clarifying on the functions of the 4 belts.

You do also own a CD85 and CD94 modified with S2 crowns ! How are they compared to CD94mkII ?

TDA1541A S2 crowns are expensive and not easy to come by. If I can get hold of 2 of them , can a technician replace the 2 S1 without doing any other modifications ?

I have 2 cd94mk2. One is black and the other is champagne. The black was sent for belt replacement ( belts I bought off Ebay Germany) about 2 years ago and it came back sounding not as good as before. Although I have not played the same Cd on both of them before to compare their sound because I assumed they ought to be as good as the other because they are of the same brand and model.The agent told me the 4 belts were change without having to open the CDM1. What he meant by that I have no idea.
So I wonder if belt change could have changed the sound. Anyone any idea on this change in sound ?

The champagne piece SQ is superior to the black piece. Now the belts are getting lazy. I have not changed it since I bought it as it was working though not ideally. It was purchased before the black piece. Seems I that have to get the belts changed by a technician.

I wouldn't worry about the TDA1541A S2. These chips have so much variance between different units & manufacture anyway. All the S2 means is 'selected'.

If you can find the last "Taiwan" TDA1541A (1998) then you'll have the tightest manufacturing available from these chips & they'll perform excellently.

There seems to be a weird cult - the prices demonstrating - around S1 & S2, but it's more complicated than that...

[Tweedle-Dee]

Hi Ying,
Thanks for your interest in my players. I have always lusted after a gold CD94II - having one is quite something. I am certainly not an expert, but, as an enthusiast, I have tried out quite a few classic TDA1541A-based players. They each have individual strengths and weaknesses. The best overall is a highly modified Marantz CD94 with a S2 chip, but it is misbehaving just now. I also have a Marantz CD94II with the DAC chips on sockets - a reliable technician would be essential for this - and have experimented with both Holland and Taiwanese double crown DAC chips. In my experience there can be a big difference in performance between standard and single crown chips (the latter with increased detail and imaging), less so with a further step to double crown chips. In fact I have found that fitting a thicker base plate or providing better isolation can provide comparable sonic gains.

In relation to the player to which you had new belts fitted, I can not understand why the SQ would deteriorate. Did your technician protect against electrostatic damage?

I hope this addresses your points,

Best wishes,
TD.

[Spectral Morn]

Hi Ying,
Thanks for your interest in my players. I have always lusted after a gold CD94II - having one is quite something. I am certainly not an expert, but, as an enthusiast, I have tried out quite a few classic TDA1541A-based players. They each have individual strengths and weaknesses. The best overall is a highly modified Marantz CD94 with a S2 chip, but it is misbehaving just now. I also have a Marantz CD94II with the DAC chips on sockets - a reliable technician would be essential for this - and have experimented with both Holland and Taiwanese double crown DAC chips. In my experience there can be a big difference in performance between standard and single crown chips (the latter with increased detail and imaging), less so with a further step to double crown chips. In fact I have found that fitting a thicker base plate or providing better isolation can provide comparable sonic gains.

In relation to the player to which you had new belts fitted, I can not understand why the SQ would deteriorate. Did your technician protect against electrostatic damage?

I hope this addresses your points,

Best wishes,
TD.

I replaced the bottom plate in mine with a three quarter inch aluminium plate and cones way back in the day, not long after I got the player from new. Seemed to me crazy to build everything into a nice case and screw a thin rattly base plate onto it. I felt it was a compromise and after listening to the player with original plate in place versus the one I had made, the audible negative aspects of the thin plate were pretty obvious.

Cone placement saw one directly under the transport, one directly under the mains transformer and one to balance, this also improved the sound, as does leaving it on 24/7. One final tweak put a shorting RCA in the digital output. Marantz actually began supplying these as standard back then.

[baguadao]

Hi Ying,

Thanks for your interest in my players. I have always lusted after a gold CD94II - having one is quite something. I am certainly not an expert, but, as an enthusiast, I have tried out quite a few classic TDA1541A-based players. They each have individual strengths and weaknesses. The best overall is a highly modified Marantz CD94 with a S2 chip, but it is misbehaving just now. I also have a Marantz CD94II with the DAC chips on sockets - a reliable technician would be essential for this - and have experimented with both Holland and Taiwanese double crown DAC chips. In my experience there can be a big difference in performance between standard and single crown chips (the latter with increased detail and imaging), less so with a further step to double crown chips. In fact I have found that fitting a thicker base plate or providing better isolation can provide comparable sonic gains.

In relation to the player to which you had new belts fitted, I can not understand why the SQ would deteriorate. Did your technician protect against electrostatic damage?

I hope this addresses your points,

Best wishes,
TD.

Thank you very much David for explaining the cost to benefit incremental difference between TDA1541A and S1 and between S1 and S2.

Frankly I cannot recollect if the sound difference was already there before the belt change. In the process of belt change, could any step along the way inadvertantly have interfered with the sound ? Is belt change a simple procedure or a complicated one involving removal of the DRIVE or the Laser PickUp or whatever. I am no techie and so I am asking and not questioning .

Is Electrostatic Damage reversible and also what caution is required to avoid/prevent Electrostatic Damage. Would greaatly appreciate your advice on these 2 points so that it will be beneficial to my next belt change.

Thank you very much.

[DGP]

A little bit extra information. I've put new belts on and refurbished three CD94/CD12 drives - one of the big issues I've found with sticking or slow to operate drawers is perished foams. The drawer is captive on the left rail but is like a sled on the right. As the drawer opens it is meant to hit a foam buffer but this has usually turned to a black goo which is then dragged back into the mechanism over time. I've cleaned with isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip and then very lightly lubricated with silicone grease (O ring grease fro a dive shop).

Back in the day I was told when I first reviewed these machines "never push the drawer closed by hand - always use the Open/Close button".
DGP

[baguadao]

I think every 18 months is a bit off, mine didn't need them replaced until about a year ago, it had run flawlessly since new. It probably isn't the laser, but a competent engineer should be able to suss all that out.

You are welcome.




Thanks Neil.

Can you let me know how long was it from the time you purchased it to the time you first replaced the 4 belts.

Would appreciate this information for knowledge.

Regards
YIng

[baguadao]

I replaced the bottom plate in mine with a three quarter inch aluminium plate and cones way back in the day, not long after I got the player from new. Seemed to me crazy to build everything into a nice case and screw a thin rattly base plate onto it. I felt it was a compromise and after listening to the player with original plate in place versus the one I had made, the audible negative aspects of the thin plate were pretty obvious.

Cone placement saw one directly under the transport, one directly under the mains transformer and one to balance, this also improved the sound, as does leaving it on 24/7. One final tweak put a shorting RCA in the digital output. Marantz actually began supplying these as standard back then.

I use FE Cereball under the 4 feet. Will arrange them according to your present choice.

Will 24/7 wear off the parts/capacitors/laser pickup then if it were not on and what about the risk of lightning strike.

If 24/7 ON will bring the sound to its optimum right away than waiting for it to warm up then it may be worth paying a little more in terms of electricity usage and shortening of its lifespan ( can this latter be confirmed please ? )

Regards

Baguadao

[baguadao]

A little bit extra information. I've put new belts on and refurbished three CD94/CD12 drives - one of the big issues I've found with sticking or slow to operate drawers is perished foams. The drawer is captive on the left rail but is like a sled on the right. As the drawer opens it is meant to hit a foam buffer but this has usually turned to a black goo which is then dragged back into the mechanism over time. I've cleaned with isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip and then very lightly lubricated with silicone grease (O ring grease fro a dive shop).

Back in the day I was told when I first reviewed these machines "never push the drawer closed by hand - always use the Open/Close button".
DGP



Hi David ( DGP )

Thank you and this is interesting .

So Isoprophl alcohol and silicone grease are needed. They are easy to come by. Is there difficulty in accessing to those areas that you mention ?

Do I need only to open up the top cover to access and no more than that?

Regards,

Ying.

[Macca]

I use FE Cereball under the 4 feet. Will arrange them according to your present choice.

Will 24/7 wear off the parts/capacitors/laser pickup then if it were not on and what about the risk of lightning strike.

If 24/7 ON will bring the sound to its optimum right away than waiting for it to warm up then it may be worth paying a little more in terms of electricity usage and shortening of its lifespan ( can this latter be confirmed please ? )

Regards

Baguadao

Whether to leave on all the time or switch off if not in use is still a hotly debated topic. Both practices are accused of prematurely reducing lifespan of components. Personally I'd leave it switched off as the 'warm up' time will be less than a minute. No point worrying about lightening strikes as nothing will protect against them. A mains surge is a different matter, but that is also rare (unless you live in a place with very dodgy power generation) and could just as easily happen when the component is in use.

[DGP]

Hi David ( DGP )

Thank you and this is interesting .

So Isoprophl alcohol and silicone grease are needed. They are easy to come by. Is there difficulty in accessing to those areas that you mention ?

Do I need only to open up the top cover to access and no more than that?

Regards,

Ying.

Hi Ying
You simply need to remove the end caps and the top plate. Care is needed when cleaning to avoid the laser lens and the grease must be used very sparingly as it can 'migrate'

I bought replacement belts through ebay from
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/williamsschallplattennadelshop/

Great service took only 4-5 days to deliver.

Hope you get your CD94 working again.
DGP

[baguadao]

Hi Ying
You simply need to remove the end caps and the top plate. Care is needed when cleaning to avoid the laser lens and the grease must be used very sparingly as it can 'migrate'

I bought replacement belts through ebay from
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/williamsschallplattennadelshop/

Great service took only 4-5 days to deliver.

Hope you get your CD94 working again.
DGP


Is this how the inside look after I remove the Top and Back plates . Do I need to remove the CDM1 Drive or ay other thing.


After removing the TOP and BACK plates do I see the inside as shown by this Link :

http://www.lampizator.eu/lampizator/REFERENCES/Marantz%20CD94/Marantz%20CD-94%20MK2.html

or if there is another Link where I can see clearly the inside of the CDM! where I can see what is required to claen and lubricate.

Thanks..
Regards,
Ying.

[Spectral Morn]

Thanks Neil.

Can you let me know how long was it from the time you purchased it to the time you first replaced the 4 belts.

Would appreciate this information for knowledge.

Regards
YIng

Hi Ying

From new, so 25 years +. I guess environmental differences around the country/world might vary things, but its only literally about a year ago I had to have the belts replaced, up till then it worked as it had before.

[Spectral Morn]

Whether to leave on all the time or switch off if not in use is still a hotly debated topic. Both practices are accused of prematurely reducing lifespan of components. Personally I'd leave it switched off as the 'warm up' time will be less than a minute. No point worrying about lightening strikes as nothing will protect against them. A mains surge is a different matter, but that is also rare (unless you live in a place with very dodgy power generation) and could just as easily happen when the component is in use.

Well 25 years of being left on 24/7 didn't effect my Marantz and it sounded better for it. In my experience the DAC in these sounds better if the machine is left on. I know folks will argue against this but it was an easily audible thing, hence why I left it on.

[DGP]

Is this how the inside look after I remove the Top and Back plates . Do I need to remove the CDM1 Drive or ay other thing.


After removing the TOP and BACK plates do I see the inside as shown by this Link :

http://www.lampizator.eu/lampizator/REFERENCES/Marantz%20CD94/Marantz%20CD-94%20MK2.html

or if there is another Link where I can see clearly the inside of the CDM! where I can see what is required to claen and lubricate.

Thanks..
Regards,
Ying.

Hi Ying

You need to remove both side faces to remove the top plate - the view marked general view in your link shows this state. You don't need to remove the mechanism to clean it but if the foams have perished - they may not have - you will see on the right side of the tray slide looking from the front on the unit. The foam buffer itself is tucked in under the front plate near the copper screw. If there's no gum or stickiness just ignore cleaning and lubricating.

Best
DGP

[baguadao]

Hi Ying

From new, so 25 years +. I guess environmental differences around the country/world might vary things, but its only literally about a year ago I had to have the belts replaced, up till then it worked as it had before.

Thanks for the useful info. Neil.

So it is all bout country, climate and of course tender loving care.

You certainly have a VFM ( value for money ) cdp. and I believe one of the envious fortunate few to have such a faithful and reliable item. I sincerely wish you another 25 years of continued enjoyment.

I have read in a website of an CD7 owner who was unfortunate as he had to change the laser head 3 times in the period since he bought it new.

Regards,

Ying

[baguadao]

Hi Ying

You need to remove both side faces to remove the top plate - the view marked general view in your link shows this state. You don't need to remove the mechanism to clean it but if the foams have perished - they may not have - you will see on the right side of the tray slide looking from the front on the unit. The foam buffer itself is tucked in under the front plate near the copper screw. If there's no gum or stickiness just ignore cleaning and lubricating.

Best
DGP

Thanks GDP

So I remove the wooden cheeks. Unscrew and remove the TOP plate. Power on and OPEN the TRAY and Power off to leave the tray in opn position.
Is the procedure correct up to this point ?

Then I have access to the interior. Thereafter I start to clean. Is this correct.

If I can have access to the foam, can I remove them completely as it will continue to pose a hazard .


What you mentioned about this stickiness is true as I have experienced the following.

Sometime tray moves in and out easily.
Sometimes it becomes lethargic.
Most time I have to press OPEN, CLOSE but it will not read. I have to try many times but without success. Eventually I power off and come back a few hours later; sometime it can read but most times it can't. Then I power off till the next day.

Following day most times it is able to read. So there must be something inside that does not allow the disc plate to sit in the position that it should to enable the Laser pick-up to read.


Regards,

Ying

[DGP]

Thanks GDP

So I remove the wooden cheeks. Unscrew and remove the TOP plate. Power on and OPEN the TRAY and Power off to leave the tray in opn position.
Is the procedure correct up to this point ?

Then I have access to the interior. Thereafter I start to clean. Is this correct.

If I can have access to the foam, can I remove them completely as it will continue to pose a hazard .


What you mentioned about this stickiness is true as I have experienced the following.

Sometime tray moves in and out easily.
Sometimes it becomes lethargic.
Most time I have to press OPEN, CLOSE but it will not read. I have to try many times but without success. Eventually I power off and come back a few hours later; sometime it can read but most times it can't. Then I power off till the next day.

Following day most times it is able to read. So there must be something inside that does not allow the disc plate to sit in the position that it should to enable the Laser pick-up to read.


Regards,

Ying

Hi Ying

Two screws through each wooden cheek - various small screws hold the top plate but it's pretty clear which ones to remove but you need to pull the plate up vertically - don't be tempted to tip it forward as this makes it harder to remove - once open you'll see the way the shielding clips together makes it like this.

I've worked power off and moved the tray gently by hand. The foam pad that causes the stickiness is compressed and not accessible when the tray is open.

The fault you describe sounds very much to me like slipping and worn belts made worse by dirt or denatured foam on the tray slides. I wish you lived nearby as it's a matter of an hour to clean the drive up:)

Check the laser lens is not dirty when you're in there - you can clean it very gently like a camera lens with lens cleaner and tissue - be very very gently and don't leabe any smears.

I hope you get things sorted and can soon enjoy the CD94 sound.
DGP

[baguadao]

Thank you very much DGP for the procedures.

I will clean the end of the CDM mechanism when the drawer is pulled open. But how can the " dirt or denatured foam on the tray slides. " be accessed and therefore cleaned ? Will they be visible once I open the top plate ?

Can I use those shiny micro fabric that comes with the chase of prescibed pair of glass or camera lens ?

I will try to follow closely and hope to have the liberty to check back with you when I encounter any difficulty.

Regards.

Ying

[agk]

All well catered for here it seems, another AoS rescue in the making.

[baguadao]

Cog? COG? :lol:

I think the CD94 in both marques used the Philips CDM-1 mech, one of the best they ever made. This used an elastically mounted cast mech frame, fitted to a solid outer assembly, which held the drawer and separate clamp assembly. The drawer and clamp parts were all belt driven and the metal drawer was swept in and out by a tuning-dial style fine steel line, a micro-switch then telling the closed drawer to stop and then activate the separate clamp. A far cry from the all plastic affair of the lower cost transports they made after this..

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q8/DSJR_photos/DSCF1375.jpg (http://s132.photobucket.com/user/DSJR_photos/media/DSCF1375.jpg.html)

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q8/DSJR_photos/DSCF1376.jpg (http://s132.photobucket.com/user/DSJR_photos/media/DSCF1376.jpg.html)


I DIY for household items. Many who do it would know that there is a great sense of satifaction whenever we succeed whether it is the faucet or simple electrical problems. I have no technical/mechanical training but have sufficient common sense knowledge after all these years by doing and observing.

I have been looking at this pic and I have opened up my 2 Cdps side and side and took photos of the internals from different angles and positions.

I have the 4 belts bought several years ago.

I do no know which belt goes to which part. For these I would appreciate those in the know to oblige by pointing out which 2 belts for the Drawer and which 2 belts are for the Clamps.



1st: Action plan the belts to the drawers

The Inner belt is shorter and I can access and change it without any apprehension as there is not obstacle.

For the Outer belt , this is my plan.

1-Drawer in closed position I switch off the power.

2-I will use a paper clip , straighten and make it to a low U shape. One end will hook on to the Left Loop/noose of the steel wire while the other end will hook onto the Right Loop/noose of the steel wire. This is to reduce risk of sudden release of tension and other consequence that I cannot foresee.

3-I will use a pincer and release the Left hook of the SPRING from the Left Loop/noose.

4-I will unwind the steel wire on the Left from the White plastic wheel . This will allow access for the Longer belt to be installed.

2nd : Action plan for the belts to the Clamp

1-The Lower belt will need patience to remove the old and replace the new belt. The tricky part after releasing from the plastic wheel is to nudge it between the 2 White top and bottom plastic wheels where the space is very narrow. The old belt can be removed by cuttng but the new belt has to be squeeze through to loop round the 2 plastic wheels.

2-The Top White plastic wheel has a metal washer. I will have to use polythene wrapper and place it under the wheel sufficiently adequate to catch the washer if case it springs and drop back.
To remove it I will use a Dentist tool that is use to pry between teeth and/or cavity like this pic 4th from the top which I have:

https://thumbs.dreamstime.com/x/dentist-tools-19235236.jpg

With the washer removed I should be able to install the belt.

So can forumners kindly advise on which belt goes to which part and the of any danger lurking.

Thank you all for reading.