Rega arms - origin counterweight

[bbbiker800]

I've just seen the hi-fi choice mag review of the above on an RB300 - in short the improvement heard was 'night and day' . A gushing review. So, there must be plenty of users out there who have applied the same or similar who can underpin this review ?? ...... Was it the 'best £87 you can spend' ?? If so then I'm in !!

[vouk]

Hi Richard,

Most aftermarket counterweights should offer a slight improvement over the standard Rega stainless steel one. But a night and day difference? I don't think so.
The Origin Live is fine, so is the Mitchell and the Clearaudio; I was quite happy with the Tungsten one by Rega. They will all do the job OK but again, don't expect anything drastic.
As an upgrade most RB 300 users go for rewires and/or further structural modifications (Audiomods and such) - I haven't heard the latter so I can't comment; in either case though the bill starts adding up to the point where considering other possible alternatives might start to make sense.

-j.

[Tom-Brown]

I had the isoteknik counterweight on a rb250 and 300 made some difference. The only night and day change came about when I had them both rewired by audio origami :) :)

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[CageyH]

I had an RB251 with the AO mods and it was pretty good.
A rewire, brass earth pin, foam fill and rear stub/low slung c/w transformed the arm, but costs as bit more than £87.

[DSJR]

Many third party counterweights clamp the weight to the rear stub I believe. Rega use(d) O-rings to decouple their RB300 series' weights and I wonder if that makes the difference as I once claimed to 'hear the difference' between different O-ring materials :roll: I also once preferred the optional larger tungsten counterweight Rega made or still make, as it got the mass nearer to the pivots.

I agree with the above comments in that re-wiring these arms seems to make the largest 'improvements' and may I add that a wooden mounting board seems to work well also, although Michell decks contradict this I think.

[mimoser]

Underslung counterweights added definition to bass on a TT2 and an LP12. Compared on an RB250 and RB251 with steel stubs and tungsten counterweights and espressimo heavyweight. Plus the heavyweight sits nearer to the bearing, thus theoretically reducing effective mass.
Michael


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[bbbiker800]

Thanks for the replies. I think you're confirming my suspicions - that's such a change should not generate a night and day impact. Obviously I was wondering that as there are loads of rega arms out there that similarly a load of people would have experience of c/w mods and so could comment. It would be nice to see some more replies ! ....... Maybe I should hold onto my £87 squids !

[walpurgis]

You have you be careful using underslung counterweights with Rega arms (and possibly other arms). If you use a light cartridge the counterweight can be close enough to foul the arm pillar as the arm is raised and the bottom of the weight swings inwards. I've had it happen with ZYX MCs which are pretty light in weight.

I'd be interested to know how an underslung weight can actually offer an improvement in sound on an arm where the orientation of the counterweight should make no difference due to the tight tolerances in the bearings which only offer horizontal or vertical movement. If it's balanced out, then it's balanced out, regardless of weight type. With a unipivot arm an underslung weight is more or less mandatory, but that's a different ball game.

I only used a few Rega arms and upgraded them to an extent, but decided they were not for me. I found the sound dull and shut in.

[Clive197]

I've just seen the hi-fi choice mag review of the above on an RB300 - in short the improvement heard was 'night and day' . A gushing review. So, there must be plenty of users out there who have applied the same or similar who can underpin this review ?? ...... Was it the 'best £87 you can spend' ?? If so then I'm in !!

May I ask which issue of HiFi Choice you read this review?

[bbbiker800]

Hi Clive - Its the April 2016 edition; so current one.

regards, richard

[bbbiker800]

At the risk of started a new thread :) .... a key point made above is that there are many, many mods available for Rega arms and TT's; you could spend your life throwing money at mods in search of empirical improvements. The desire is for a quick and worthwhile win at reasonable cost but its also crucial to know when to stop. The fact being that the total cost of the TT plus all mods in some peoples cases seems to exceed the cost of a new - and more recent - replacement TT. Its a worry ! but i don't think i'll go down that path.

The new Rega Planar 3 - that contains significant design changes but unless i'm mistaken there are a few other changes that look like 'mods' eg feet, subplatter etc.

So, the CW is a tempter and apart from the rewire (which seems major surgery to me) the other one thats seemingly easy to fit and gets lots of forum time seems to be the sub-platter whereby you swap the plastic one for a aluminium/steel version. I can't believe the 'night and day' comments attached to those but the volume of positive experiences seems almost compelling.

Also, in addition to your valuable comments, there are also a few dealers on AOS that may usefully comment here and it would be interesting to hear their view on mods in this space.

[Clive197]

Hi Clive - Its the April 2016 edition; so current one.

regards, richard

Thanks for that, there was me looking in the May 2016 edition that arrived this morning.

[mimoser]

My toying around with Rega arms started with a knackered RB250 bought with (on) my TT2.
I replaced it with a stock RB251 and sent it to be serviced and rewired.
The original plastic stub was glued into the arm tube and was removed during servicing.
A steel stub and small tungsten cw was fitted with two effects:
The tungsten cw fitted better under the lid, but sat at the rear edge of the stub with my Stanton 681.
As I was able to grab an original expressimo heavyweight I tried it.
For a side to side comparison of the TT2 and an LP12 I got another underslung cw and steel stub and did some critical listening.
Results:
- the original Rega wiring is not as bad as it’s reputation
- the original steel cw on the plasic stub balances heavier carts than the small tungsten/steel combo, but needs more clearance under lids
- tungsten/steel weight produces crisper sound, but only balances lighter carts
- the heavyweight produces tighter bass and is better suited for heavier carts
In the end I re-mounted the RB250 on the TT2 (as it still has a Heybrook sticker) and added a Mitchell VTA adjuster and Finger nut to the heavyweight mod just to be thorough …
… and sold the LP12, the RB251 and the other weights.
I would not have toyed around so much, if the bearings of the RB250 had not been knackered when I bought it and an LP12 had not crossed my path for a tenner.
tbh there are similar changes in sound to be gained by replacing a felt mat with a silicone mat or a rubber/felt combo or or or or (went that way too)
hth
Michael

[YNWaN]

Many third party counterweights clamp the weight to the rear stub I believe. Rega use(d) O-rings to decouple their RB300 series' weights and I wonder if that makes the difference as I....

I would suggest that that is precisely what makes the difference as this is a well known mechanism. Neither coupled nor decoupled is necessarily correct but the difference on mechanical resonance between the two is well known and recognised.

[dowser]

I would suggest that that is precisely what makes the difference as this is a well known mechanism. Neither coupled nor decoupled is necessarily correct but the difference on mechanical resonance between the two is well known and recognised.

My experience also