View Full Version : The SR7-EHD is in the Hoose
I managed to pick up a S/H Paul Hynes SR7 21/27 EHD ( serial 0019 ) from a seller over on the Wam, who very kindly PM'd me before putting it up on the classifieds.
https://mikeyb.smugmug.com/Other/Odds-and-Sods/i-gFTsR2f/0/M/IMG_20160312_123925-M.jpg
https://mikeyb.smugmug.com/Other/Odds-and-Sods/i-mwRSCf6/0/M/IMG_20160312_124007-M.jpg
It has not long arrived so I was wondering if anyone had fitting instructions, I have seen the photos on here that show the red wire and black wire soldered to the board looks is simple enough.
But are there any photos showing how to remove the current PSU inside the TT, and what exactly does it remove, does the onboard on/off switch become disabled, does the strobe still function, I am assuming its no/yes but thought I'd ask anyway.
Previous owner showed me images of his TT after removal of the internal PSU but his wires were just snipped off, I'd rather do it a bit neater, any tips/help?
Thanks,
Mike.
RobbieGong
12-03-2016, 13:29
Now thats a seriously good psu I believe. I plan to go to one of these one day plus the 3 stage regulator mod. Let us know how you find it once you have it up and running :)
Now thats a seriously good psu I believe. I plan to go to one of these one day plus the 3 stage regulator mod. Let us know how you find it once you have it up and running :)
thanks Robbie, it certainly seems to get great reviews, I thought initially I was dealing with the seller about an SR5, and I thought the price was good, when I found out it was the SR7 I didn't hesitate ;)
Just waiting on how to remove/fit and my 'potential' son in law will solder it for me, just another one of his many tests :eyebrows:
Wakefield Turntables
12-03-2016, 15:45
Welcome into the SR7 club. You will now need to do some open heart surgery to your 1210! Seriously, you have probably bought one of the best upgrades available, I have the version above yours, the XL version. It was costly at the time but can't EVER imagine my 1210 without.
Welcome into the SR7 club. You will now need to do some open heart surgery to your 1210! Seriously, you have probably bought one of the best upgrades available, I have the version above yours, the XL version. It was costly at the time but can't EVER imagine my 1210 without.
thanks, looking forward to getting it fitted tomorrow, how do I remove the existing transformer, do you just cut the wired or do you desolder them somewhere? I have no instructions and struggling to find much on the net as to how to remove the old one.
Mike.
Removal is covered here - http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?8118-How-to-Connect-an-External-Dc-Supply-to-the-SL-1200-1210
Removal is covered here - http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?8118-How-to-Connect-an-External-Dc-Supply-to-the-SL-1200-1210
Excellent, thanks. I had seen that thread but in all my searching is forgotten to bookmark it.
I still think it's a bit messy just cutting wires though.
Unsolder the wires then. That is what I did so I can put the original PSU back if I ever need to.
Unsolder the wires then. That is what I did so I can put the original PSU back if I ever need to.
Too late lol
All fitted and sounding mighty fine :eyebrows: :)
Mike_New
15-03-2016, 01:29
Now you will need a quality Bearing to go with it.
I have the Paul Hynes complete set of modules, however getting the very heavy transformer to OZ
represented a mammoth cost/performance leap. So I got a large toroidal tranny locally and put it in a large box
together with the 21V regulator module Paul supplied.
Now you will need a quality Bearing to go with it.
I have the Paul Hynes complete set of modules, however getting the very heavy transformer to OZ
represented a mammoth cost/performance leap. So I got a large toroidal tranny locally and put it in a large box
together with the 21V regulator module Paul supplied.
Hi Mike,
I managed to buy a second hand MN Bearing a few weeks ago and it made a tremendous difference to the deck.
The SR7 has further improved it.
Just need one of your platters now ;)
Wakefield Turntables
15-03-2016, 10:28
Get the internal regs and an ebony arm board if you can afford, you'll have to pay full money for these. Your deck will go up to yet even higher levels. :D
Yup... Without the internal regs, you're only realising a fraction of the SR7s full potential! ;)
Marco.
RobbieGong
15-03-2016, 10:53
Yup... Without the internal regs, you're only realising a fraction of the SR7s full potential! ;)
Marco.
I've sensed Marco is right for a while now, hence I've already made the necessary enquiries ;)
Bugger off you three lol
Thought I was nearly there !
Wakefield Turntables
15-03-2016, 11:01
Bugger off you three lol
Thought I was nearly there !
You are! You'd probably need to spend well into four figures to better your deck now and then probably well into five figures with the internal regs and arm board :fingers:
Hehehe... You *are*, nearly, Mikey. But honestly, I also obtained an SR7 before I had the regs done, and thought is was great. Then afterwards, when I had the regs fitted, I heard what "great" really meant!! :eek: :eek:
;)
It's a bit like with the MN bearing: one only realises a percentage of its true potential (around 85%), without also fitting the bearing base plate (as the latter simply allows the former to achieve its maximum mechanical potential), and it's exactly the same with the SR7 and the reg mods, in an electrical sense: without the latter, the former is only operating 'half-cocked'...
Marco.
There was me thinking new arm and phono stage was all I needed after the platter upgrade.
Still using stock arm and TQ Claymore's built in stage, I'm fancying Firebottles Vivant mind you.
For arm I'm thinking Isokinetik Silver Melody, one of Yannis' cables and Steves Ebony Board.
Marco,
I posted as you were doing same, I'll look into the reg upgrade for SR7, I'm assuming they fit internally into deck.
Bearing base plate, never thought of that.
Bloody list getting bigger not smaller lol
You are! You'd probably need to spend well into four figures to better your deck now and then probably well into five figures with the internal regs and arm board :fingers:
Yeah have to say that even straight into the TQ's MC input it sounds mighty good.
I should be taking my time upgrading but I can't lol
It just depends how far you want to take things, Mike. I've carried out all of these mods gradually, one by one, so I know both their individual and cumulative effect. The improvements wrought by the BBP are reasonably subtle (icing on the cake stuff), but when you've heard them, you wouldn't want to be without them...
The internal regs are a different ball game altogether, and in my experience, effect a much bigger improvement than does the PSU itself (any Paul Hynes PSU). However, cumulatively (with an SR7), they take the Techy into an entirely different league, sonically and musically.
Basically, if you're planning on keeping your T/T for a long time, and genuinely would like it to compete favourably with pretty much anything else that's out there, at any cost, then an SR7/reg mods combo is a *must*. If not, and you're happy with how things are now, then just put it to bed and enjoy the music! :)
Marco.
If you are going "all out" you will want something better than the Jelco 750 :eek: (even though there are many happy users of the arm). It just depends how far you want to take it.
It just depends how far you want to take things, Mike. I've carried out all of these mods gradually, one by one, so I know both their individual and cumulative effect. The improvements wrought by the BBP are reasonably subtle (icing on the cake stuff), but when you've heard them, you wouldn't want to be without them...
The internal regs are a different ball game altogether, and in my experience, effect a much bigger improvement than does the PSU itself (any Paul Hynes PSU). However, cumulatively (with an SR7), they take the Techy into an entirely different league, sonically and musically.
Basically, if you're planning on keeping your T/T for a long time, and genuinely would like it to compete favourably with pretty much anything else that's out there, at any cost, then an SR7/reg mods combo is a *must*. If not, and you're happy with how things are now, then just put it to bed and enjoy the music! :)
Marco.
I like to get the best I can afford, I can't take it with me, so I'm going to make bloody sure I enjoy it while I can, so I've emailed Paul for a price for the regulators ;)
I've also bought one of the Mpingo spacers and an MG-10 headshell that you mentioned to someone else.
If you are going "all out" you will want something better than the Jelco 750 :eek: (even though there are many happy users of the arm). It just depends how far you want to take it.
Ok I'm looking to spend about £650 on the ISM arm (new), plus an armboard/collar etc so what would be the recommendation for something within that budget but second hand, I'm happy to buy used and get a better bargain/upgrade.
No wonder I've hardly any of my pension lump sum left lol
Wakefield Turntables
16-03-2016, 10:53
Get a speedy steve ebony arm board for sure. I was very pleasantly surprised with the difference it made to my deck. I'll leave the others to talk about arms.
Get a speedy steve ebony arm board for sure. I was very pleasantly surprised with the difference it made to my deck. I'll leave the others to talk about arms.
Yeah, I've been looking at those for a couple of weeks now, be a definite buy once I decide on the arm.
PSU regulators ordered from Paul this afternoon ;)
RobbieGong
16-03-2016, 19:39
I've sensed Marco is right for a while now, hence I've already made the necessary enquiries ;)
Me too, SR7 AND three stage regs lined up ;) ;)
Lol... I'm sure that neither of you will be disappointed! :cool:
Marco.
Me too, SR7 AND three stage regs lined up ;) ;)
Copycat[emoji14]lol
RobbieGong
16-03-2016, 20:02
Lol... I'm sure that neither of you will be disappointed! :cool:
Marco.
You said from the off, way back here http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=16963 how very good these two mods combined were. I was in the middle of my Techy modding journey at the time but I always knew this would be something I'd pursue one day. With all the other mods in place, nows the time :)
RobbieGong
16-03-2016, 20:03
Copycat[emoji14]lol
Lol - Ask Marco about my pm to him a while back regards said SR7 and three stage regs ;) ;) ;) :D
You said from the off, way back here http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=16963 how very good these two mods combined were. I was in the middle of my Techy modding journey at the time but I always knew this would be something I'd pursue one day. With all the other mods in place, nows the time :)
Lol - nice journey down memory lane! Cheers for that :)
I stand by every word that I wrote back then: if you *really* want to hear what the Techy is capable of and transform it into a genuinely world-class turntable, then providing separate high performance, wide-bandwidth regulators, for each stage in the motor control circuitry, and using them in conjunction with an over-specced top-notch PSU, such as an SR7-EHD, is an absolute MUST.
Of all the available and highly effective modifications for the Technics, this is arguably the most fundamental and effective of them all. Fit them, and quite simply, rediscover your record collection! :exactly:
Marco.
I would have thought that the arm upgrade was the most fundamental, as this is directly linked to the audio signal.
Mike_New
17-03-2016, 07:06
Hi Kevin,
Refering to your comment above:
It is because the tone arm is directly linked to the audio signal, that it is not the most fundamental or foremost addition or upgrade.
Like any complex sensing system, the receiving transducer, in this case the cartridge can only transcribe what it receives.
If the received signal is inferior or distorted then the transmitted signal to the pre-amp will be likewise.
It is generally accepted that both the power supply in the case of the SL1200. And specifically the platter suspension mechanics (Bearing)
for all TTs can always be improved.
In the case of the SL1200, as a range of models extending through to the MK6, the externalization of the power supply and the fitting of a superior Bearing must be the first considerations in any upgrade path. As these will then generate the necessary quality of reproduction at the mechanical level that any improvement of the tone arm/cartridge can then take advantage of and thus enhance the sonics.
I refer to the power supply in terms of "mechanical level" as we need to consider both the electrical and mechanical advantages of removing it from the chassis.
It is my judgement that to spend time fitting a new tone arm before attending to the above two upgrades, is a total waste of money.
Because all the shiny new and expensive tone arms and/or cartridges will be doing, is to faithfully reproduce the lower level of sonic quality
available from the standard non-upgraded SL1200.
I guess the forgoing has been stated many times here and elsewhere. But for the newcomer devotees to the SL1200 experience it needs to be stated again so that they do nor career off in the wrong direction and become disillusioned as has happened in the past.
Once the Power Supply and Bearing have been upgraded then the other upgrades such as Bearing Base Plate, Platter, Tone Arm,
and Arm Board can be considered.
It is a bit like repairing the links in a chain in a cost justifying manner, you fix the badly rusted ones first before considering pulling the Iceberg ashore!!!
I disagree.
The main benefit from removing the PSU is to reduce the electrical noise from the vicinity of the cartridge. Some cartridges are more sensitive than others. There will be very little mechanical noise if there is no transformer hum apparent.
If the main bearing is in good condition, well oiled etc. then upgrading this will show s smaller benefit than other areas. I still don't see the need for a bearing base plate. In my view the forces are not high enough to warrant it, hence never fitting one to my deck.
The standard tone arm is "OK" but for an object that carries the item that generates the audio signal and carries the signal wires, the combination can be greatly improved. Changing this will allow you to extract the most from the vinyl/cartridge interface. Everything else is just minor in comparison, but the cumulative effect is worthwhile.
If I were to re-visit my SL1200 journey, then the tone arm would be first. While the deck was in bits, I would externalise the PSU at the same time, and check the condition of my bearing. The upgraded bearing, platter and PSU would be done later.
It is because the tone arm is directly linked to the audio signal, that it is not the most fundamental or foremost addition or upgrade.
Like any complex sensing system, the receiving transducer, in this case the cartridge can only transcribe what it receives.
If the received signal is inferior or distorted then the transmitted signal to the pre-amp will be likewise.
Spot on, Mike. Essentially, it's the old 'source first' thing, in terms of what's FIRST in the reproduction chain, which is liable to colour/distort the ability of a turntable (as a complete system) to accurately reproduce the information contained in record grooves - and in that respect, *everything* stems from the motor unit/plinth and its partnering PSU.
Hence when upgrading any existing turntable, or building one from scratch, the order of hierarchy, in terms of ensuring the information that the stylus ends up reading from a record is as uncoloured/undistorted as possible, is: motor unit/plinth > tonearm > cartridge, in precisely that order.
Therefore, the more one spends on the motor unit/plinth (and PSU powering the former), ensuring that it provides the best possible platform for the stylus (connected to the cartridge and arm, and ultimately everything else upstream), to retrieve the musical information contained on records as accurately as possible, then the more music one hears, and in a way which is delivered as sonically optimal.
*THAT* is precisely why, in the context of upgrading a Technics SL-1200/1210, the introduction of something of the calibre of a Paul Hynes SR7EHD (together with regulator modules) is so fundamentally influential in allowing the T/T to realise its maximum potential. It's as simple as that. And as far as I'm aware, no other PSU manufacturer addresses the issue of individually regulating each stage in the T/T motor control circuitry, other than Paul Hynes.
Once you've done that, *then* the partnering tonearm and cartridge come next, in terms of preserving the integrity of the music signal, and so should be upgraded accordingly - and if the efficacy of the motor unit has been optimised, as outlined above, the tonearm and cartridge will be as unhindered in their job as possible, in terms of accurately reproducing the musical information embedded in record grooves, thus you're on your way to building what could be genuinely described as an accurate music transcription device.
Essentially, it's all about providing the correct foundation and platform, in order to allow the tonearm and cartridge to perform their job to their maximum capability, and in that respect, the role of the motor unit/plinth and partnering PSU is absolutely fundamental.
Marco.
Is the wow and flutter of a standard SL1200 that bad that it needs all that?
I don't think so.
To open the "can of worms" further, how does changing the bearing drag charaecteristics (potentially) outside of the limits that the control system was originally designed for help with the improving the "accuracy".
I would love to see some measurements of a standaare deck against a fully modified to the max one and a deck that has been "partially" modified to see what improvements have been made, as judging this by the perceived sound is a bit subjective. For speed accuracy (and cogging), it should be simple to do with the right equipment and decks.
At the end of the day, it's up to the individual about how far they want to take the deck, and as you may have guessed, I think I have gone about as far as I am willing to. Yes it could possibly be improved, but at what cost? I don't perceive any wow or flutter with my deck, hence questioning "the need" for this level of modification.
It's not about wow and flutter though, Kevin. If that's what you think, you've not properly grasped what the point is of 'maxing out' the motor control circuitry/PSU. Essentially it's about addressing unwanted electrical interactions and noise within the circuit.
In that respect, you should read Paul's post here on the subject, where he outlines very clearly the purpose of the regulator mods: http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?16963-The-Paul-Hynes-regulator-modules-have-landed-chez-Marco!&p=314099#post314099
In terms of the modifying of your own T/T, then if you've taken it as far as you're willing to go, that's fine. It's good to be able to know when to stop. However, for some, there will always be further distance to travel, when 'going the extra mile' with any piece of audio equipment - and the rewards of doing so can be very worthwhile :)
Marco.
Marco,
I have read that post before, and it's all about reducing "noise" in the motor control circuit, which ultimately will affect the wow and flutter. What else can it affect?
Well, not attending to that area of the Techy's functionality introduces distortion (via unwanted electrical interactions in the circuit), and thus masks musical information, none of which is directly related to W&F, which is a different thing entirely. There may well be measurable knock on benefits in that area too, but that's not the primary purpose for what Paul was describing.
Fitting the regulator mods is about 'cleaning up the musical window', not getting the platter to spin at the correct speed better! ;)
In any case, the benefits gained from carrying out said mods are very significant and highly worthwhile, if one has the funds and/or desire to go there.
Marco.
I thought that the main job of the motor was to spin at the correct speed.
Surely there is very little noise from a low voltage/low current circuit?
If I had two identical turntables side by side, and upgraded one with the internal regulators etc. would there be a noticeable difference in a blind test? I guess that is really the question I am asking. If the answer is a resounding yes, then it might just become a consideration for a future upgrade.
RobbieGong
17-03-2016, 13:38
I thought that the main job of the motor was to spin at the correct speed.
Surely there is very little noise from a low voltage/low current circuit?
If I had two identical turntables side by side, and upgraded one with the internal regulators etc. would there be a noticeable difference in a blind test? I guess that is really the question I am asking. If the answer is a resounding yes, then it might just become a consideration for a future upgrade.
Hi Kevin, I tell you what. For some reason and I cant explain why (daft as that sounds) but I am in absolutely no doubt that on top of everything else, this mod then just takes things to a whole new level. I just really sense that, hence I've took a punt. I'll report back on my findings once I've received the SR7, regs and installed them.
I thought that the main job of the motor was to spin at the correct speed.
Surely there is very little noise from a low voltage/low current circuit?
If I had two identical turntables side by side, and upgraded one with the internal regulators etc. would there be a noticeable difference in a blind test? I guess that is really the question I am asking. If the answer is a resounding yes, then it might just become a consideration for a future upgrade.
Well, all I can tell you is the results of what I can clearly hear - and I don't need a blind test to confirm it...
Read what I wrote about the effect of employing the regulator mods to my T/T, *after* having already fitted an SR7 PSU (in the thread that Rob linked to earlier), all of which not only I heard, but Anthony too, in his [very revealing] system.
I can assure you, Kevin, that the improvements subsequently gained were far from subtle! ;)
Marco.
I'll report back once mine are fitted. As long as I've not blown anything up ;)
I think in the grand scheme of things paying £220 extra for the regulators isn't much as a percentage of the total build to be honest. I liken it to buying a muscle car and then fitting a 1.3 engine lol.
Indeed, but you also have to factor in the cost of an SR7-EHD, otherwise you won't get the full effect of the regulators, by using them with an inferior PSU... It works both ways! ;)
Marco.
Indeed, but you also have to factor in the cost of an SR7-EHD, otherwise you won't get the full effect of the regulators, by using them with an inferior PSU... It works both ways! ;)
Marco.
Yeah true, I wouldn't be fitting them if I didn't have the SR7, I've been doing pretty good with upgrade purchases and the regulators are only the 2nd item I've bought new ;)
Wakefield Turntables
17-03-2016, 16:29
You guys now might want to think about an Analog Audio Crystal platter mat. £73 but better than messing around spending lots of time and money on the various other platter mats available. I've been through them all and this is the best. The Crystal mat also has the added benefit of generating positive improvements from all the various Mike New platters i.e. the original Al/Cu platter like I have and the new ETP platters available currently.
RobbieGong
17-03-2016, 16:53
Done the whole mat thing and don't have any need to go there. The most 'right' to my ears has always been the basic mat I have - honestly, for me in my set up. Others obviously may well find otherwise.
Wakefield Turntables
17-03-2016, 18:39
Done the whole mat thing and don't have any need to go there. The most 'right' to my ears has always been the basic mat I have - honestly, for me in my set up. Others obviously may well find otherwise.
What platter are you using?
RobbieGong
17-03-2016, 19:13
Mike's excellent ETP
Wakefield Turntables
17-03-2016, 19:50
Mike's excellent ETP
Your findings surprise me, but they are your ears and your system, and you know best! ;)
RobbieGong
17-03-2016, 19:54
I might know best in the context of my set up and ears but you've got a Cadenza Black :D
Wakefield Turntables
17-03-2016, 20:14
I might know best in the context of my set up and ears but you've got a Cadenza Black :D
ok fair point. What you running nowadays?
RobbieGong
17-03-2016, 20:29
ok fair point. What you running nowadays?
Gone up from the 2M Black to its 'bigger' sibling the Quintet Black and love it ! The Cadenza I can only inagine is amazing. It will be the only cart id upgrade to as i know what the top of each line Ortofon Shibatas are capable of ;)
Your findings surprise me, but they are your ears and your system, and you know best!
Lol... That's an old story. Rob and I agree on many things audio related, but not on mats or cartridges! ;)
Still, it shows that he has the gumption to think for himself (instead of being just a copycat) and confidence to judge what's best for his system, and stick to his guns, which are enviable traits :)
Marco.
My internal regulators will be here in a couple of weeks, does anyone have the wiring instructions, I've checked the Techipedia but not convinced I've seen the correct wiring.
So 2 questions:
What wiring do I need to buy in order to fit the regulators.
How do you wire them up? Detailed instructions anyone, and I don't mean the two or the photos I've seen on some threads ;)
Thanks,
Mike
Wakefield Turntables
22-03-2016, 16:01
You should get some instructions with them.
Paul Hynes
22-03-2016, 17:30
SL1200 and 1210 internal regulation upgrade instructions
http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?8920-Technics-1210-internal-regulation-mods/page25
Wakefield Turntables
22-03-2016, 19:32
SL1200 and 1210 internal regulation upgrade instructions
http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?8920-Technics-1210-internal-regulation-mods/page25
:lol: I'd completely forgot about this thread and my "attempt" at adding the regulator mods.
SL1200 and 1210 internal regulation upgrade instructions
http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?8920-Technics-1210-internal-regulation-mods/page25
I'm afraid those mean nothing to me as I no longer have the PCB inside my machine as I removed it to wire the PSU direct as per the instructions on the other thread.
It also shows that I need to fit the regulators to a plate or some sort of mount.
I'm starting to think this is going to be beyond me :(
Wakefield Turntables
22-03-2016, 20:05
I no longer have the PCB inside my machine
Where the hell is it then? How does the bearing work?
Where the hell is it then? How does the bearing work?
Sorry I meant the little PCB that came out with the transformer lol
Mike_New
22-03-2016, 22:16
Hi Mike,
If you will accept my advice, the conversation on this thread would tell me that you would be far
safer getting someone to install the regulators for you.
Modifying the PCB and wiring up the voltage insertion points requires a degree of skill and experience which I fear you may not have.
Hi Mike,
If you will accept my advice, the conversation on this thread would tell me that you would be far
safer getting someone to install the regulators for you.
Modifying the PCB and wiring up the voltage insertion points requires a degree of skill and experience which I fear you may not have.
maybe so but I am still waiting on clear instructions that says point A is soldered to point B, point C is wired to point D etc, if that isn't available then it's a no go and I'd be as well cancelling my order
maybe so but I am still waiting on clear instructions that says point A is soldered to point B, point C is wired to point D etc, if that isn't available then it's a no go and I'd be as well cancelling my order
PS: I won't be doing the soldering, but I know someone who can, but even he will need instructions no? ;)
You should get some instructions with them.
thanks, I missed your post.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.3 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.