Linear PSU roundup?

[robtweed]

I'm finding it very tricky to figure out exactly what Linear PSUs are worth considering for:

- the Raspberry Pi
- Beresford Caiman II

Can I suggest a roundup of what's worth considering for each and where do you get them from (and what's the model no / spec you ask for in each case)?

Is there, by any chance, a PSU that could power both at once (I realise they have different power requirements and connectors)? I can power both simultaneously from my Anker battery.

Also any suggestions for a suitable Linear PSU for the ever more popular (and awesome if you haven't tried one out) Zoom F8 field recorder? https://www.zoom.co.jp/products/handy-recorder/zoom-f8-multitrack-field-recorder
Again I'm able to power this from the Anker.

Many thanks for any info / suggestions!

[brian2957]

This is the third one of these I have bought Rob http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2016-NEW-30W-DC12V-HiFi-Linear-power-supply-Regulated-PSU-for-DAC-headphone-amp-/111544612626?hash=item19f893b712:g:wdoAAOSw2XFUiC3 m
IMO they're excellent . I'm now using one to power my recently acquired Young DAC and the results have been far from subtle . The output of these PSUs can be adjusted from 5V to around 25V so they can be used on a variety of equipment .
I believe Grant ( struth ) uses one like this to power his Pi and something else . I'm sure he'll be along to confirm or deny this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Hifi-2-way-linear-power-supply-DC-2-USB-preamp-DAC-external-linear-PSU-sn-/111328891082?hash=item19ebb810ca:g:7x4AAOxyBvZTT-fp

[r100]

Hi Brian, is the output user-adjustable ? Greets.

[struth]

I deny nothing:eyebrows: yup ive got the double. Had a single as well... They are adjusted via a small pot inside...i had need for 2 so got the double..one for rpi at 5v and other for my phono set at 12v

[brian2957]

Hi Rupert , yes it is . Four screws to lift off the lid and there's a little trim pot inside . You don't even need a meter as you can use the display . 20 minute job my friend :)

[r100]

Hi Brian,

thank's :) thats good to know. I have a smaller version but it is sealed. I never had the guts to cut the seal and see if there was a little pot inside. But I suspect it is similar to yours as they sell it set to different Voltages 5, 12, etc.. Il give it a try.

[brian2957]

Please let us know how you get on Rupert .

[The Black Adder]

I use the new Sbooster BOBW linear PSU and I'm very happy with it.

Along side this I also use 'The Power Works' digital mains filter designed by AnthonyTD and Mark Grant. Shooperb!

[r100]

Ok, here the pics..
greetings
ru



https://www.dropbox.com/s/sw19oo403ct9hmk/IMG_6301.jpeg?raw=1

standard setting when bought



https://www.dropbox.com/s/7we26ledfrjau5g/IMG_6302.jpeg?raw=1

back view with seal covering the screw (top right)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ezi91al2cohndny/IMG_6303.jpeg?raw=1


top removed...the little potentiometer with its little copper screw can be seen above the small light green capacitor

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bcwejfygce0thx2/IMG_6305.jpeg?raw=1

voltage max. = 11.6 which is below the specs AFAIKS. Amperage is much lower at this voltage.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/r11w8xeh80jcy61/IMG_6306.jpeg?raw=1

comparative measurement

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zg7ic1wevgwrpfw/IMG_6307.jpeg?raw=1

close-up of the pot

[Arkless Electronics]

If any more unusual PSU types are needed I can build linear supplies for any application and at voltages from 1 to 1000V ;) Obviously as they would be hand built to order they would be priced accordingly...

[brian2957]

My PSU is different from this one Rupert so I can't comment . I have mine running at 16V into the Young DAC . I haven't tried adjusting this particular one to minimum or maximum however the previous ones which I've had did go from 5V to 25V output .

[r100]

oki, thank's. Yours was about the same price as mine but it looks much beefier :eek: with that fat transformer in it. Good to know anyways.

Btw, I bought this PSU for peanuts. I have not had a chance yet to give it a full test but it is built like a tank and seems to have only industrial quality components on it. It outputs 5v and 12v @ varying amps.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zvozeu1bshqc2vs/IMG_6308.jpeg?raw=1


https://www.dropbox.com/s/5zp0plcpwjel87o/IMG_6309.jpeg?raw=1

[brian2957]

Looks the part Rupert . I'm afraid my knowledge of electronics is very limited and I tend to stick to things recommended on the forums . The PSU I linked to works and is fairly easy to adjust . That's as far as I can go with it I'm afraid :)

[Simon_LDT]

Would this be good to power my Pi 2 from the DC out and an external HDD from the USB output?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15VA-DC5V-2-0A-Linear-Power-supply-with-USB-port-HiFi-PSU-for-XMOS-6631-L154-/131584305343?hash=item1ea30928bf:g:eQEAAOSw~gRVkRY X

[struth]

Looks ok yes... Should have enough power. No switch though. What is the hdd? The pi hub is a good way to go for the hdd as it stops the supply voltage getting into the rpi usb slot making it very quiet. Think they are about a tenner. Then you just need a 5v supply for the pi..those ifi ones look good for money, or one like Brians from china are about 40 or so too.i,d go with the ifi if youve got access to the socket otherwise you want a psu with a power switch for convenience

[Simon_LDT]

Looks ok yes... Should have enough power. No switch though. What is the hdd? The pi hub is a good way to go for the hdd as it stops the supply voltage getting into the rpi usb slot making it very quiet. Think they are about a tenner. Then you just need a 5v supply for the pi..those ifi ones look good for money, or one like Brians from china are about 40 or so too.i,d go with the ifi if youve got access to the socket otherwise you want a psu with a power switch for convenience

Yeah, did notice it had no power switch which is a shame. I was looking at the hub but then I'd need to use another plug socket which isn't ideal. I did think about powering the Pi from the hub too and have the hub connected to the PSU but would that interfere with quality of sound? I could also power the HDD from a USB socket on my TV, although I'd no clue if that would backpower the Pi, once connected.

[struth]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Hifi-2-way-linear-power-supply-DC-2-USB-preamp-DAC-external-linear-PSU-sn-/111328891082?hash=item19ebb810ca:g:7x4AAOxyBvZTT-fp

Ive got one of these. Has switch and 2 seperate outputs. You would just have to adapt the cables to micro usbs

[Simon_LDT]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Hifi-2-way-linear-power-supply-DC-2-USB-preamp-DAC-external-linear-PSU-sn-/111328891082?hash=item19ebb810ca:g:7x4AAOxyBvZTT-fp

Ive got one of these. Has switch and 2 seperate outputs. You would just have to adapt the cables to micro usbs

So I could connect 1 output to power a hub and then the other to power the Pi? Or would it be better to just power the hub with a 5v supply, which according to reviews will power the Pi and stuff plugged into the hub. The hub won't add any noise to the Pi power input?

[r100]

I'm not sure it would be a good idea to power both the hub and the Pi at the same time. I would opt to only power the Pi directly without the use of an extra link (hub). As Grant said, you'd have to make or buy a cable that you can plug into the micro USB port of the Pi, or you could use the 5v pins on the Pi to route a 6.5mm male jack to your chassis. Similar to theses project boxes where I just used some 6.5mm jacks lying around and soldered the leads to the micro usb plug) not pretty but it works :)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/l9l1x6zz54x7vin/pistreamer6313.jpg?raw=1



https://www.dropbox.com/s/63afkqvopb3a24k/pistreamer6312.jpg?raw=1

[struth]

So I could connect 1 output to power a hub and then the other to power the Pi? Or would it be better to just power the hub with a 5v supply, which according to reviews will power the Pi and stuff plugged into the hub. The hub won't add any noise to the Pi power input?

I would set one side to do pi. The other to power a usb drive or even better a pi hub. No reason if its a good drive that you will have any problems.assuming its an externally powered hdd that is. If its just a usb powered drive then you only need a hub. Although you could power it from the dual inear psu..gives you a switch off point and only have to use one socket

[Simon_LDT]

I would set one side to do pi. The other to power a usb drive or even better a pi hub. No reason if its a good drive that you will have any problems.assuming its an externally powered hdd that is. If its just a usb powered drive then you only need a hub. Although you could power it from the dual inear psu..gives you a switch off point and only have to use one socket

Yea, think that's how I'll do it. I've ordered a Pi Hub for now to make sure the set-up will work without issues and then I'll add the dual PSU and set one side to power the Pi and the other to power the Hub with drive attached.

[r100]

I think there is a 2A PS included. Will this only feed the attached devices or will it also feed the Pi ?
Greets
ru

Contents Include:


7 port powered USB hub
5V 2A Power supply
USB Cable
Stand

http://thepihut.com/products/7-port-usb-hub-for-the-raspberry-pi

[Simon_LDT]

It will apparently power the Pi too, as long as the hub isn't overloaded with too many other devices. So there would be no way you'd power the Pi and all 7 inputs on the hub with 2A.

[robtweed]

Has anyone done any analysis of how the cheap Chinese PSUs stack up against the much more expensive UK-built ones (such as the MCRU ones)?

[StanleyB]

The latest power supply from Mark Grant (https://markgrant.co.uk/linear-power-supply/109-sbooster-12v-132-v-power-supply-botw-pp-eco.html) is also worth considering if cost is not an issue. I have had one running in my system since November last year, and it is a cut above the rest of the linear and battery power supplies that I have built up over the years.

[occamsrazor]

While it's a bit more expensive, there's also the HDPlex, which has 5 outputs including one that's adjustable:

http://www.hd-plex.com/HDPLEX-Fanless-Linear-Power-Supply-for-PC-Audio-and-CE-device.html

[Simon_LDT]

Just ordered one of these for my Pi set-up: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TALEMA-25VA-Linear-Power-supply-DC5V-DC9V-DC12V-DC15V-PSU-for-choose-L154-/141751112861?hash=item210106549d:g:LNIAAOSwT6pVkRU X

Bit more pricey than usual but has dual outputs so will power both Pi and USB Hub. Like the look of the internals, apparently the Talema transformer is very good.

[Simon_LDT]

Got my Jay's Audio LPS today and I'm not too happy. Seems to work fine, stays at 5.0-5.01v but there is a bad smell coming from it and I'm not sure why. Don't laugh but it smells a bit like maggots and a bit fishy (no burning smell though). Seems to be coming from the IEC input socket. Anybody else know what this is?

I'm tempted to just send it back.

[walpurgis]

Got my Jay's Audio LPS today and I'm not too happy. Seems to work fine, stays at 5.0-5.01v but there is a bad smell coming from it and I'm not sure why. Don't laugh but it smells a bit like maggots and a bit fishy (no burning smell though). Seems to be coming from the IEC input socket. Anybody else know what this is?

I'm tempted to just send it back.

Sounds like burnt insulation mate. I'd not be happy myself using something suspect like that.

[rikardo1979]

Regarding the self powered USB hub for RPi just make sure you use one which dont back feed your RPi over USB cable! If you power your RPi from micro USB power port.
And any PSU with stable 5V/2A which does not drop below 4.7V should be good.

I probably going to try this (http://goo.gl/4fk7Ov)

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjU5WDgwMA==/z/eTIAAOSwjVVVkMcP/$_57.JPGhttp://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjQ5WDgwMA==/z/pfoAAOSw~gRVkMcQ/$_57.JPG

[roob]

Got my Jay's Audio LPS today and I'm not too happy. Seems to work fine, stays at 5.0-5.01v but there is a bad smell coming from it and I'm not sure why. Don't laugh but it smells a bit like maggots and a bit fishy (no burning smell though). Seems to be coming from the IEC input socket. Anybody else know what this is?

I'm tempted to just send it back.
Check you house insurance.
Being serious did you notice any improvement in sq while it was running?

[killie99]

Regarding the self powered USB hub for RPi just make sure you use one which dont back feed your RPi over USB cable! If you power your RPi from micro USB power port.
And any PSU with stable 5V/2A which does not drop below 4.7V should be good.

I probably going to try this (http://goo.gl/4fk7Ov)

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjU5WDgwMA==/z/eTIAAOSwjVVVkMcP/$_57.JPGhttp://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjQ5WDgwMA==/z/pfoAAOSw~gRVkMcQ/$_57.JPG

This looks lethal. There is no earth connection and it's in a metal case. If either the live or neutral wires come loose and touch the case then the case will be live - NOT good. If I had one of these I'd be putting an earth wire from the earth point on the IEC connector to the chassis. Also, there appears to be no fuse on the AC in - again NOT good. Don't think I'd buy one of these to tell you the truth, certainly isn't CE certified.

[killie99]

Got my Jay's Audio LPS today and I'm not too happy. Seems to work fine, stays at 5.0-5.01v but there is a bad smell coming from it and I'm not sure why. Don't laugh but it smells a bit like maggots and a bit fishy (no burning smell though). Seems to be coming from the IEC input socket. Anybody else know what this is?

I'm tempted to just send it back.

I think it may be that the unit is drawing too much current and overheating as there is no AC inline fuse to blow to stop it (see my post above) - the only fuse is in your plug and it's probably minimum 3A so it'll draw 700W or so before the plug fuse blows and by that time the innards of your power supply will probably have caught fire.....

[rikardo1979]

This looks lethal. There is no earth connection and it's in a metal case. If either the live or neutral wires come loose and touch the case then the case will be live - NOT good. If I had one of these I'd be putting an earth wire from the earth point on the IEC connector to the chassis. Also, there appears to be no fuse on the AC in - again NOT good. Don't think I'd buy one of these to tell you the truth, certainly isn't CE certified.

you are 100% right here :o I did not even look closer on it when I was quick search these

[struth]

Not seen that one b4, but it looks from this angle that there is no earth on the iec socket. You would need to get that checked with a multimeter before using again. Smell, could be anything tbh, from the tx having some coating on it, someone spilt something on it to a fault condition. I would either have it checked professionally or sent back with ebay involved so you will eventually get reimbursed.
It may also be a 220v model and if your hitting it with 250v then thats a lot more than its designed for too

[Simon_LDT]

It's supposed to be 230v. Have contacted the seller and will be sending it back. Looks like I'll have to source something else.

[Qwin]

The add I have seen for these says 110 or 220v versions available, which tallies with what is printed on the transformer case (2x110v) so the two windings can be used together for 220v.
Not every appliance has an earthed chassis, that's why we have class 2 devices and in Hifi this is often the case as it can help eliminate earth loops, my Sony CD player for instance and every other device with a figure 8 power lead. That said, this doesn't look to meet class 2 insulation and looks a cheap piece of crap, with pretty basic regulation. There are better supplies around, even coming out of China and variants of this same design with a 3 pin fused IEC connector are on ebay. You have to be very careful when going through the description and pictures to make sure you are happy with what you are purchasing.

[lurcher]

Looks like the one I measured here http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?43277-iFi-iPower-for-Raspberry-PI&p=744214#post744214

I mentioned that it was not earthed and clearly class I. Mine unlike this on did have a fused IEC though FWIW.

[StanleyB]

Looks like the one I measured here http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?43277-iFi-iPower-for-Raspberry-PI&p=744214#post744214

I mentioned that it was not earthed and clearly class I. Mine unlike this on did have a fused IEC though FWIW.
Is the DC voltage on yours also adjustable Nick? I am running my 2nd production of the TC-7110 headphone without a 12V regulator, since the power supplies TC-7110 owners are using are already quite stable. But when using my variable power supply I like the sound I get from my HD800 at 13V. So if your PSU can be adjusted even if it would need to be sent back to you to do that, it might be handy to know.

[rikardo1979]

earthing shouldn't be a problem. Simple wire with little bolt anywhere on the casing. Trouble is the missing fuse on AC...so what ever bad happen it may fry your device on feed from this

[lurcher]

Is the DC voltage on yours also adjustable Nick? I am running my 2nd production of the TC-7110 headphone without a 12V regulator, since the power supplies TC-7110 owners are using are already quite stable. But when using my variable power supply I like the sound I get from my HD800 at 13V. So if your PSU can be adjusted even if it would need to be sent back to you to do that, it might be handy to know.

Yep, going from 12v to 13v is no problem. Sending back to me to get it done is fine if prople want it done, but if you have a meter its simple enough, just remove the front of the small box and there is a pot that adjusts the final voltage.

[StanleyB]

Thanks Nick. I'll PM you on this so that I can do a proper write up on it for inclusion on my site.

[Simon_LDT]

Which appliance are we talking about here? The Jay's Audio I have here doesn't show the internals of the IEC socket (that I can find) so I've no idea if it's fused or earthed. I heard back from the seller and they reckon it's some of the plastic parts giving off the smell. I'm not so sure because never had any electrical item smell like this before. I'm going to place it near an open window for a few days and see if that gets rid of it. Even if the small goes, I won't be happy unless I've seen inside.

[rikardo1979]

I think it may be that the unit is drawing too much current and overheating as there is no AC inline fuse to blow to stop it (see my post above) - the only fuse is in your plug and it's probably minimum 3A so it'll draw 700W or so before the plug fuse blows and by that time the innards of your power supply will probably have caught fire.....

I have just found that Audiophonic (http://www.audiophonics.fr/en/hi-fi-power-supply/linear-power-supply-5v-25a-13w-t-amp-lt1085-p-8792.html)selling this chinese PSU on their web for much more

[rikardo1979]

Which appliance are we talking about here? The Jay's Audio I have here doesn't show the internals of the IEC socket (that I can find) so I've no idea if it's fused or earthed. I heard back from the seller and they reckon it's some of the plastic parts giving off the smell. I'm not so sure because never had any electrical item smell like this before. I'm going to place it near an open window for a few days and see if that gets rid of it. Even if the small goes, I won't be happy unless I've seen inside.

I think this is yours inside

http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa415/alvinchc/IMG_0396_zps0481a01b.jpghttp://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa415/alvinchc/IMG_0397_zps4a2d0035.jpg
So there is a fuse

[CageyH]

I have just found that Audiophonic (http://www.audiophonics.fr/en/hi-fi-power-supply/linear-power-supply-5v-25a-13w-t-amp-lt1085-p-8792.html)selling this chinese PSU on their web for much more

With the inclusion of a fuse in the IEC socket.

[rikardo1979]

With the inclusion of a fuse in the IEC socket.

which is useless anyway as it protect only the AC side and there is still no case earthing inside

edit:and to fit the IEC with fuse makes it 69 EUR from original 48 EUR :D

[Simon_LDT]

Just opened the back of mine. Smell is stronger inside. It is earthed to chassis and I can't see anything wrong apart from the power switch, which has either burnt or has very dirty contacts, because I'm sure they're not supposed to be brown like that. The unused pins on the underside of the switch are brown too. Is that green box a circuit type fuse/regulator? Seems to be in line directly after the L+N wires are attached.

[rikardo1979]

Just opened the back of mine. Smell is stronger inside. It is earthed to chassis and I can't see anything wrong apart from the power switch, which has either burnt or has very dirty contacts, because I'm sure they're not supposed to be brown like that. The unused pins on the underside of the switch are brown too. Is that green box a circuit type fuse/regulator? Seems to be in line directly after the L+N wires are attached.

does not look burned, more like oxidised. And that green bit is EMI suppressor

[CageyH]

which is useless anyway as it protect only the AC side and there is still no case earthing inside

edit:and to fit the IEC with fuse makes it 69 EUR from original 48 EUR :D

My Audiophonics PSU (that I recently sold) was earthed to the case, as can be seen from the pictures I posted on the sales thread.
I think you are making assumptions based on the photos. The safer bet would be to ask Audiophonics.

[rikardo1979]

My Audiophonics PSU (that I recently sold) was earthed to the case, as can be seen from the pictures I posted on the sales thread.
I think you are making assumptions based on the photos. The safer bet would be to ask Audiophonics.

yes I do, as that is what they providing and there is no information that it is not an actual unit. So yes I presume that what I see is what I get

[CageyH]

The same as the eBay unit, which is also wired chassis to earth?

I would rather pay a bit more and have the back up of customer service if I were to have a problem.

[CageyH]

Well I just asked Audiophonics and the response is "No, it isn't - but it's easy to do if you want." :eek:

[rikardo1979]

The same as the eBay unit, which is also wired chassis to earth?



no it does not. Thats why I do not buy this unit. To many darkness in it :D
Luckily someone here spotted that issue so it saved me some £££ or mabe not as I would go for something else, probably more expensive :doh::scratch::lolsign:

[Simon_LDT]

does not look burned, more like oxidised. And that green bit is EMI suppressor

Surely it shouldn't be that oxidised if new? Does everything else look good/safe?

[CageyH]

If it still smells, I would be nervous about using it.

[rikardo1979]

Surely it shouldn't be that oxidised if new? Does everything else look good/safe?

from the pictures you provided I can not see anything unusual, just ordinary PCB with components. There is nothing melted, burned or anything.
That smell can come from any of the components. Sometime if you have electrolytic capacitors which have defect, those can produce very strange smells. If they failing they usually start popping on top.
But as someone mentioned here, it can be contact/s inside the switch, cable or transformer insulation...

If you not sure and it still pretty bad than you be safer not to use and return it

[Qwin]

Are the spade terminals a good tight fit on the back of the IEC socket?

If loose they could generate heat and possibly the discolouration, just something to check and rule out.

[Simon_LDT]

Just wanted to update here on the jay's audio PSU. Had it by an open window for 2 days. Smell has gone completely. Manufacturer told me not to worry as each unit is fully tested. Thought I'd give it a try and have had it running for a few days now and it's fine. No smell, no heat build-up and supplies a steady 5v. Has a 1 year warranty as well so for £80 (no customs charges either) to power 2 items is good.

[Bonky]

Just ordered one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Hifi-2-way-linear-power-supply-DC-2-USB-preamp-DAC-external-linear-PSU-sn-/111328891082?hash=item19ebb810ca:g:7x4AAOxyBvZTT-fp&clk_rvr_id=1021902612949&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true

...Thanks Grant!


...It says delivery on June 8th! I hope they mean May the 8th!

At present I have a Pi2 + IQ audio DAC fed by the standard wall mart. This PS is to supply this DAC and a Caiman2, (at present Anker battery fed). As yet unsure how I will connect the new PS to the above; probably hardwire it.

However, being bitten by the bug I've also just ordered a new Audiophonics Sabre3 DAC from France so will be interesting to see/hear what difference they all make. I haven't got any more inputs left on the Caiman for it to be used as a DAC for the IQ Audio.

I'm using Volumio and desperately waiting for v2. I also have a new SD card ready and primed for Moode 2.6. I wonder which will come first?

On one of these forums someone was suggesting an album that was a bit of a tester for the IQ Audio but was better on the Sabre. Please may I have its details? Thanks.

BW


Richard.

[roob]

Just wanted to update here on the jay's audio PSU. Had it by an open window for 2 days. Smell has gone completely. Manufacturer told me not to worry as each unit is fully tested. Thought I'd give it a try and have had it running for a few days now and it's fine. No smell, no heat build-up and supplies a steady 5v. Has a 1 year warranty as well so for £80 (no customs charges either) to power 2 items is good.
Has it made any difference to SQ?

[bumpy]

...It says delivery on June 8th! I hope they mean May the 8th!


If it's from the Orient, that's probably right :)

[Bonky]

If it's from the Orient, that's probably right :)

...yep...I know.

I'll let you know!

BW

R

[StanleyB]

I received one of those linear PSU from China this morning. I ordered it on the 7th of last month. So it took a month to get here. Looks externally quite good for the price. The first thing will be to bin the unfused power cord and get a proper fused one. I'll check it out on the scope and eventually look at how or if it can be improved with a few simple mods.

[rikardo1979]

I have found this on eBay 65VA Ultra Low Noise linear Power supply (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141748560650?euid=347fc0c0c2e5458c8971e20dbcb764b9&cp=1)

https://img.alicdn.com/imgextra/i4/2529159729/TB2EviUepXXXXXBXpXXXXXXXXXX_%21%212529159729.jpght tps://img.alicdn.com/imgextra/i4/2529159729/TB2SraVepXXXXajXpXXXXXXXXXX_%21%212529159729.jpg
I looking for something with more than 30W as I would need 6-9V at 3A minimum

Anyone got one of these?

[Firebottle]

Looks well constructed, however I have spotted two points where it doesn't meet the regs.

The mains wiring is too close to the transformer secondary wires at the end of the pcb, for the use of single insulation. Sleeving the mains wiring here would work.

The case isn't earthed. Adding a separate earth wire from the mains input to the case would be essential.

:)

[tubehunter]

I've built one of these with a 80va 9v transformer in an aluminium case.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Assembled-S11-SUPER-linear-regulated-power-supply-board-LPS-PSU-L1511-10-/121828014441?hash=item1c5d83f969:g:r10AAOSwxN5WW84 e

After building various linear power supplies with the likes of L78XX and lm317 series regulators and not having much success regarding a good sound quality upgrade, these are very good similar to the Paul Hynes PS but without the price.

It's based on the s11 from here
http://www.amb.org/audio/sigma11/

[rikardo1979]

Looks well constructed, however I have spotted two points where it doesn't meet the regs.

The mains wiring is too close to the transformer secondary wires at the end of the pcb, for the use of single insulation. Sleeving the mains wiring here would work.

The case isn't earthed. Adding a separate earth wire from the mains input to the case would be essential.

:)

Thanks for reply. I have noticed all this too. But this can be easily done. I have ordered one this morning and also ordered one of these 2 Way LPS (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111936841441?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) for my turntable and phono stage (12V+16V)
https://img.alicdn.com/imgextra/i1/2529159729/TB2c94UlFXXXXbYXXXXXXXXXXXX_!!2529159729.jpghttps://img.alicdn.com/imgextra/i4/2529159729/TB2OZl5lFXXXXaeXXXXXXXXXXXX_!!2529159729.jpg

[Paul Hynes]

Hello Duncan,

“Similar to the Paul Hynes PS” is not a helpful comparison as the PH range covers different levels of performance and the difference between the levels is not subtle. If you found the S11 module power supply comparable to say an SR3, then the SR5 and SR7, the SR3DR, SR5DR and SR7DR double regulated versions and SR7MR Multirail version would all be superior power supplies.

Sorry to be critical here but I see this a lot on forums, where people make a casual comparison, without being specific about the compared power supply. This effectively suggests that the manufacturers whole range is comparable and I would have to doubt that you have compared all my power supplies against the S11 module power supply in identical circumstances.

[Simon_LDT]

Has it made any difference to SQ?

I'm not one to make such claims because I find sometimes it can get silly with the adjectives. However, I think there is a slight difference for the better - just a touch more clarity (or my mind playing tricks). It's certainly not night and day or anything like that. For what it's doing for me (using only 1 plug to power the Pi with a full 2.5A and my external SSD with 2.5A/5v) it's a worthwhile investment. Looks to be solid inside too (and earthed). Haven't had any issues either and been using it a few weeks now. Think I jumped the gun at first with my earlier worries.

[tubehunter]

Hi Paul

The power supply I was referring to was Marco's

It is the SR3S5 from your range, I have to say it is a very good ps.

Happy days

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t350/halx00/6F828AFB-0BCE-4D69-BA26-0FC313682C39_zpshe1xfckv.jpg (http://s514.photobucket.com/user/halx00/media/6F828AFB-0BCE-4D69-BA26-0FC313682C39_zpshe1xfckv.jpg.html)
http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t350/halx00/7CA29648-5FC1-4C70-BFA5-AD06E7BF0799_zpshsjluk5q.jpg (http://s514.photobucket.com/user/halx00/media/7CA29648-5FC1-4C70-BFA5-AD06E7BF0799_zpshsjluk5q.jpg.html)

[Paul Hynes]

Hi Duncan,

Thank you for the clarification regarding the power supply. Nice photography.

[The Black Adder]

The SR3S5 is on my shopping list. :)

[Bonky]

Grant, did you earth your new double PS? A new kettle lead?

Thanks,

Richard.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Hifi-2-way-linear-power-supply-DC-2-USB-preamp-DAC-external-linear-PSU-sn-/111328891082?hash=item19ebb810ca:g:7x4AAOxyBvZTT-fp

Ive got one of these. Has switch and 2 seperate outputs. You would just have to adapt the cables to micro usbs

[The Black Adder]

I'm getting one of these... my kind of PSU.

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CiHNDfrUgAIPEfo.jpg:large

Them Danes go that little further... lol

[struth]

Grant, did you earth your new double PS? A new kettle lead?

Thanks,

Richard.

I used it with my own mains lead. It went faulty a month ago actually so was retired. I'm using batteries now. Think ice improved sound again

[Bonky]

I used it with my own mains lead. It went faulty a month ago actually so was retired. I'm using batteries now. Think ice improved sound again

Ouch! That's poor quality. Any idea about the fault? Are both outputs affected? If so, primary windings?

BW

Richard

[struth]

Ouch! That's poor quality. Any idea about the fault? Are both outputs affected? If so, primary windings?

BW

Richard

not had time to look at it. tbh I think the sound was getting poorer by the day b4 it went tits up. both are out so its a mains thing probably.. I tried a battery pack and it was so much better i just left it in.

[Marco]

The SR3S5 is on my shopping list. :)

If you want to give your Pi some REAL 'pussy power', dat's da one ter have! ;)

Marco.

[The Black Adder]

lol...

The SR3S5 is one of the ones to have me thinks.

Still need to get the resistors in the Pi sorted too.

[Marco]

Yup, you'll enjoy that. While you're at it, you should upgrade to the RPi 3 (latest model), as I did that yesterday, as well as housing the unit (and IQ-Audio DAC) inside a rather nice matt-black IQ-Audio Pi-Case+, as shown here: http://www.iqaudio.co.uk/home/13-pi-case.html?search_query=Pi+case&results=5

...including installing the latest version of Moode, and the cumulative introduction of that appears to have moved things on nicely :cool:

Marco.

[rikardo1979]

i would not recommend new RPi 3 at all
A lot of issues with under voltage, and massive overheating problems!
Im glad I still have few RPi 2s

OP2

[rikardo1979]

check some extensive tests which one of our guys at XBian did
http://forum.xbian.org/showthread.php?tid=3551

OP2

[Marco]

i would not recommend new RPi 3 at all
A lot of issues with under voltage, and massive overheating problems!


Lol... Well, not here. And nor with two of my mates who've been using theirs non-stop for weeks!

Marco.

[rikardo1979]

Lol... Well, not here. And nor with two of my mates who've been using theirs non-stop for weeks!

Marco.
you would not know unless you test it ;)
I ended up using 5.1V/3A [emoji33] and only 10cm long lead to be able to get rid of under volt issue!

OP2

[Stig]

Interesting Thoughts on the PI3 guys.

I’ve been running my 3’s for a while now as a Raspbian Jessie/Minimserver based NAS ish and as renderer with Moode.

Both with IFI 5V PSU’s.

I’ve not noticed any issues around overheating but then these are both pretty light processes.

It may be worth keeping an eye on but maybe a small heatsink on the CPU would help heat dissipation a little.

[Marco]

you would not know unless you test it ;)


I 'test it' by using it in real world circumstances, and if I encounter no problems, there are no problems worth worrying about... Simples! Some folk fret too much and scaremonger over nothing ;)

Perhaps yours was faulty? :)

Marco.

[struth]

Im gonna stick with my 2. Works and sounds just fine to me. Found the battery pack supply i am now using to sound very good, although some sound very much better than others. I dont know. Why though as they are supposed to have similar outputs

[rikardo1979]

I 'test it' by using it in real world circumstances, and if I encounter no problems, there are no problems worth worrying about... Simples! Some folk fret too much and scaremonger over nothing ;)

Perhaps yours was faulty? :)

Marco.
nope, its not faulty. I have replace RMA first one
And its not only me having these problems.
Do a bit of search online ;)

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=raspberry+Pi+3+over+heating+problems&oq=raspberry+Pi+3+over+heating+problems+&aqs=chrome..69i57.22255j0j4&client=ms-android-oneplus&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=138193

OP2

[lovejoy]

Im gonna stick with my 2. Works and sounds just fine to me. Found the battery pack supply i am now using to sound very good, although some sound very much better than others. I dont know. Why though as they are supposed to have similar outputs

That's interesting. Back when I was using a 12V battery to supply power for my old DDAC (which I miss very much) I found that batteries tailed off in terms of audio quality over a certain amount of charge cycles. Replacing with a brand new battery after 6 months was a revelation after the old one had been used daily and recharged around once a week. The old DDAC was quite a power hungry beast though so those batteries were getting a bit of a battering). I can imagine that 5V battery packs are going to sound different depending on the configuration of the battery clusters, i.e. with there being no such thing as a 5V battery, they'll be summing or connecting units in parallel with some regulation on the end before it comes out of the USB socket on the battery pack, so that's going to have an impact on the supply quality.

[The Black Adder]

Interesting... I've not heard of the rpi3 (whilst using the IQaudio dac) having issues so far, maybe the IQAudio dac doesn't draw as much power as some may think?... I dunno but this could be a bummer for some.

If the RPI3 is overheating on it's own then is there a new version coming out?

[struth]

That's interesting. Back when I was using a 12V battery to supply power for my old DDAC (which I miss very much) I found that batteries tailed off in terms of audio quality over a certain amount of charge cycles. Replacing with a brand new battery after 6 months was a revelation after the old one had been used daily and recharged around once a week. The old DDAC was quite a power hungry beast though so those batteries were getting a bit of a battering). I can imagine that 5V battery packs are going to sound different depending on the configuration of the battery clusters, i.e. with there being no such thing as a 5V battery, they'll be summing or connecting units in parallel with some regulation on the end before it comes out of the USB socket on the battery pack, so that's going to have an impact on the supply quality.

Yes it may be that Richard. The other one seems to have less bass with rpi/audiophonics. Both are new fully charged have very similar capacity and power out. So it must be something like that. It sounds perhaps more audiophile and maybe in some ways better but i prefer the one with ra bass:eyebrows:
I am using other with chromecast as its power requirements are lower for now... Once they have been used for longer i will swap them round again

[Marco]

nope, its not faulty. I have replace RMA first one
And its not only me having these problems.
Do a bit of search online ;)

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=raspberry+Pi+3+over+heating+problems&oq=raspberry+Pi+3+over+heating+problems+&aqs=chrome..69i57.22255j0j4&client=ms-android-oneplus&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=138193

OP2

Interesting and noted. However, I've often read on-line about folk supposedly having problems with stuff I'm using (or have used), with zero problems whatsoever, so I gave up taking any notice! ;)

That said, perhaps there are genuine issues with the RPi 3 (and it's good to flag up such things), but as ever I'll judge matters from my own experience and report back in a couple of months, if I notice any issues regarding overheating, etc.

Like I said, two of my friends have been using the RPi 3, almost since day one of its release, with no problems whatsoever - and I know theirs are left switched on 24/7 :)

Marco.

[rikardo1979]

Interesting... I've not heard of the rpi3 (whilst using the IQaudio dac) having issues so far, maybe the IQAudio dac doesn't draw as much power as some may think?... I dunno but this could be a bummer for some.

If the RPI3 is overheating on it's own then is there a new version coming out?


Same setup.

Stressing the RPi3 for just 60 seconds increases the heat to 81 degrees.
Stressing the RPi2 for just 60 seconds increases the heat to 60 degrees.

Stressing the RPi3 for just 90 seconds increases the heat to 83 degrees
Stressing the RPi2 for just 90 seconds increases the heat to 60 degrees

Stressing the RPi3 for just 120 seconds increases the heat to 84 degrees
Stressing the RPi2 for just 120 seconds increases the heat to 61 degrees

Stressing the RPi2 for just 240 seconds increases the heat to only 63 degrees


What else do we need? there is 20 degrees difference under test! 20 degrees, not 2! If is 2,3 even 5 degrees you would say it does not matter but this much is a big issue :mad:
http://i.imgur.com/wf18qz3.png

[rikardo1979]

Like I said, two of my friends have been using the RPi 3, almost since day one of its release, with no problems whatsoever - and I know theirs are left switched on 24/7 :)

Marco.
I use it myself, and I dont care if it burns in flames :D I just saying the RPi 3 is not as good as RPi 2 and have some serious issues

[Marco]

Well, it may arguably have some "serious issues", but it's notably faster, in terms of processing speed (check the specs), and to my ears, sounds better, which is what I was reporting earlier. Therefore, "serious issues" aside, I'd say that, in terms of performance, it is markedly superior to its predecessor :)

Marco.

[Kit1cat]

Any one using moode can check there cpu usage and running temp by selecting audio info in the drop down menu, it's the last line of data.

My pi2 setup is giving CPU: armv71, 900 MHZ, 4% 36 degrees, while playing a mp3 file.

[rikardo1979]

Any one using moode can check there cpu usage and running temp by selecting audio info in the drop down menu, it's the last line of info.

My pi2 setup is giving CPU: armv71, 900 MHZ, 4% 36 degrees, while playing a mp3 file.

built-in thermal sensor is not very reliable to be honest. If you want to find out real temperature you better use external gear

[rikardo1979]

Any one using moode can check there cpu usage and running temp by selecting audio info in the drop down menu, it's the last line of data.

My pi2 setup is giving CPU: armv71, 900 MHZ, 4% 36 degrees, while playing a mp3 file.

you can also log in from SSH and use
/opt/vc/bin/vcgencmd measure_temp

[Marco]

Any one using moode can check there cpu usage and running temp by selecting audio info in the drop down menu, it's the last line of data.

My pi2 setup is giving CPU: armv71, 900 MHZ, 4% 36 degrees, while playing a mp3 file.

Mine (on the RPi 3), playing a 24-bit FLAC file, is:

CPU: armv71, 600 MHz, 2%, 45°.

Marco.

[Kit1cat]

built-in thermal sensor is not very reliable to be honest. If you want to find out real temperature you better use external gear

Could still be useful to compare the difference between a pi2 and the new pi3?

[tubehunter]

I've had my pi3's since they were released.

One runs openelec kodi and the other runs moode 2.6 tr2

They report a core temperature of 49c most of the time.

What the designers says:
When not under load, the Pi's CPU operates at 600MHz, increasing its speed to 1.2GHz when tasked with carrying out a heavyweight operation. Operating at this higher speed will begin to raise the temperature of the board and when it goes over 80C the Pi 3 will start to reduce its operating frequency in order to reduce the heat emitted by the CPU. Its speed is gradually reduced, dropping down to 600MHz if the board hits 85C or over.

Happy Days

[rikardo1979]

Could still be useful to compare the difference between a pi2 and the new pi3?

yes, you can and that what our guys at XBian did ;) link is posted few posts back

[struth]

dare say a small fan can be added if nes.....could be powered via a pi hub so no noise.

[rikardo1979]

Mine (on the RPi 3), playing a 24-bit FLAC file, is:

CPU: armv71, 600 MHz, 2%, 45°.

Marco.


/opt/vc/bin/vcgencmd measure_temp
temp=33.6'C


Same stress on RPi 2 ;) 11.4 degrees less and thats a lot, dont you think? doing same job in less efficient way which waste more power turned to heath

[Marco]

I've had my pi3's since they were released.

One runs openelec kodi and the other runs moode 2.6 tr2

They report a core temperature of 49c most of the time.

What the designers says:
When not under load, the Pi's CPU operates at 600MHz, increasing its speed to 1.2GHz when tasked with carrying out a heavyweight operation. Operating at this higher speed will begin to raise the temperature of the board and when it goes over 80C the Pi 3 will start to reduce its operating frequency in order to reduce the heat emitted by the CPU. Its speed is gradually reduced, dropping down to 600MHz if the board hits 85C or over.

Happy Days

Indeed, mate. Worry not and enjoy, is my advice! :exactly:

Marco.

P.S You have email :)

[Marco]

/opt/vc/bin/vcgencmd measure_temp
temp=33.6'C


Same stress on RPi 2 ;) 11.4 degrees less and thats a lot, dont you think?

Nope. Read what Tubehunter (Duncan) has just posted.

Marco.

[rikardo1979]

Nope. Read what Tubehunter (Duncan) has just posted.

Marco.

well, fact is fact and you cant avoid it ;)
same job for less

[Marco]

well, fact is fact and you cant avoid it ;)


Yup, and the FACT is, none of the RPi 3s I know have 'overheated' :)

Marco.

[rikardo1979]

Yup, and the FACT is, none of the RPi 3s I know have 'overheated' :)

Marco.

fact of having an issues, using more power to do same job, be less efficient, the fact the HW is not as good balanced as on predecessor ;)

:adminpower: does not mean you are always right

[Marco]

No, but I'm not going to worry about something that in my opinion is not worth worrying about! ;)

YMMV.

Marco.

[tubehunter]

fact of having an issues, using more power to do same job, be less efficient, the fact the HW is not as good balanced as on predecessor ;)

:adminpower: does not mean you are always right


As my pi's are on 24/7 the Pi 3's processor is throttled back to 600MHz when the system is at idle; the Pi 2's always ran at 900MHz (according to the CPU clock speed command I was running). This makes a difference to power consumption. The Pi 2 draws 3.2W at idle and 3.8W under load while the Pi 3 draws 2.5W and 3.8W. This is a 22% power saving at idle.

:)

[cyclopse]

Yup, you'll enjoy that. While you're at it, you should upgrade to the RPi 3 (latest model), as I did that yesterday, as well as housing the unit (and IQ-Audio DAC) inside a rather nice matt-black IQ-Audio Pi-Case+, as shown here: http://www.iqaudio.co.uk/home/13-pi-case.html?search_query=Pi+case&results=5

...including installing the latest version of Moode, and the cumulative introduction of that appears to have moved things on nicely :cool:

Marco.

Is your Paul Hynes OK with the greater current draw of the Pi 3?

Thanks

Steve

[The Black Adder]

What does the Pi3 bring to the picture by itself, sonically?

Also, I have the latest SBooster BOBW linear supply. It has changeable 5v and 6v outputs.. will that be ok with the pi3?

[cyclopse]

What does the Pi3 bring to the picture by itself, sonically?

Also, I have the latest SBooster BOBW linear supply. It has changeable 5v and 6v outputs.. will that be ok with the pi3?

I think the Pi3 is 2.5A compared to 1A for Pi 2. Interestingly I run mine now with NO I2S dac. Best sound ever out of the Pi media player.

[The Black Adder]

Ah... we are talking in amps. Okay, mine does this:

Maximum output current 3 Amps at 5 volts DC or 1.75 amps at 6V DC.

Is that still ok?

[rikardo1979]

Ah... we are talking in amps. Okay, mine does this:

Maximum output current 3 Amps at 5 volts DC or 1.75 amps at 6V DC.

Is that still ok?

you are good at 5V/3A ;)

[struth]

Came across these figures a while ago. It seems its the usb that draws most current

All of these are bare-bone (does not have any peripherals/accessories attached)

*** Fun Fact (Tested on Pi1 B+) ***
Any turned-off Raspberry Pi that's still plugged in: 75 mA

*** Idle ***
Raspberry Pi 2 B: 420mA
Raspberry Pi B+: 230-240mA
Raspberry Pi B: 320-330mA
Raspberry Pi A+: 180-240mA
Raspberry Pi A: 120-140mA
Raspberry Pi Zero: 60-70mA
Raspberry Pi 3 B: 280-320mA

*** Under Load/Max ***
Raspberry Pi 2 B: 450-650mA
Rasbperry Pi B+: 300-600mA
Raspberry Pi B: 380-450mA
Raspberry Pi A+: 200-300mA
Raspberry Pi A: 170-300mA
Raspberry Pi Zero: 120-150mA
Raspberry Pi 3 B: 500-800mA

Take note that some of them have a bit of give-or-take.

Also take note that you will rarely reach these numbers in the real world. These measurements are based on stress tests that maxes out the unit.

I believe 5.25 v is the max you are supposed to hit it with.

[The Black Adder]

you are good at 5V/3A ;)

Thanks :)

Still interested to know what the pi3 gives over the pi2 though. In IQaudio styleee.

[Marco]

Is your Paul Hynes OK with the greater current draw of the Pi 3?


Hi Steve,

Seems to be :)

Marco.

[struth]

I used it with my own mains lead. It went faulty a month ago actually so was retired. I'm using batteries now. Think ice improved sound again

Just an update. I have had it on the bench and it was a dry joint. It is now fixed, earthed and voltages adjusted for 240v input currently.They had been slightly out

[Bonky]

Just an update. I have had it on the bench and it was a dry joint. It is now fixed, earthed and voltages adjusted for 240v input currently.They had been slightly out
Ah, that's good news!

Does it now sound better than your battery supply?

BW

Richard.

[struth]

Not put it back in at moment. Might do later


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[rikardo1979]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Ud-grj4Zl0

[larky]

Not sure what you are trying to prove or the video tbh, run any chip with all cores maxed out on a bench test it will get hot.

This is not how normal people run them, most of the scare stories are from people trying to break them.

[Mark Grant]

Also, I have the latest SBooster BOBW linear supply. It has changeable 5v and 6v outputs.. will that be ok with the pi3?

On the 5 volt setting that will be perfect for up to 3 amps and the Sbooster latest model has much lower noise levels than most other power supplies, even more expensive power supplies :)

[Marco]

Not sure what you are trying to prove or the video tbh, run any chip with all cores maxed out on a bench test it will get hot.

This is not how normal people run them, most of the scare stories are from people trying to break them.

Indeed. It's a load of old bollocks, so Richard, please give it a rest! :rolleyes:

Marco.

[Mark Grant]

Came across these figures a while ago. It seems its the usb that draws most current

All of these are bare-bone (does not have any peripherals/accessories attached)

*** Fun Fact (Tested on Pi1 B+) ***
Any turned-off Raspberry Pi that's still plugged in: 75 mA

*** Idle ***
Raspberry Pi 2 B: 420mA
Raspberry Pi B+: 230-240mA
Raspberry Pi B: 320-330mA
Raspberry Pi A+: 180-240mA
Raspberry Pi A: 120-140mA
Raspberry Pi Zero: 60-70mA
Raspberry Pi 3 B: 280-320mA

*** Under Load/Max ***
Raspberry Pi 2 B: 450-650mA
Rasbperry Pi B+: 300-600mA
Raspberry Pi B: 380-450mA
Raspberry Pi A+: 200-300mA
Raspberry Pi A: 170-300mA
Raspberry Pi Zero: 120-150mA
Raspberry Pi 3 B: 500-800mA

Take note that some of them have a bit of give-or-take.

Also take note that you will rarely reach these numbers in the real world. These measurements are based on stress tests that maxes out the unit.

I believe 5.25 v is the max you are supposed to hit it with.

The measurements look low which is good.

If anyone has a selection of Pi's and some time a Portapow meter is a useful tool to measure the power consumption, micro USB adapters will be needed.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/PortaPow-USB-Premium-Power-Monitor/dp/B00LZ07BG0/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1463088326&sr=8-19&keywords=portapow

http://www.portablepowersupplies.co.uk/portapow-premium-usb-dc-power-monitor/
.

[rikardo1979]

trying to say this new RPi is not as good as previous.


does the RPi 2 do same job using less power? Yes, it does (RPi2 PSU req-1A>;RPi3 PSU req-2.5A>)

does the RPi 2 produce less heat doing same job? Yes it does (more efficient)






OP2

[StanleyB]

On the 5 volt setting that will be perfect for up to 3 amps and the Sbooster latest model has much lower noise levels than most other power supplies, even more expensive power supplies :)
I am really impressed with the new Sbooster power supply. I have had one running on a modded CaimanII. Noise measurement wise offload and under load it is the best I have come across so far.

[rikardo1979]

I am really impressed with the new Sbooster power supply. I have had one running on a modded CaimanII. Noise measurement wise offload and under load it is the best I have come across so far.

had these on my #shoppinglist, but the price... :uhho:so I took a risk and ordered some stuff from china :goodluck:. Hope I not going to regret

[StanleyB]

I got one of the Chinese ones as well. Haven't tried it yet, but when I do then one of the first things I intend to look at is how it performs noise wise under load.

[rikardo1979]

I got one of the Chinese ones as well. Haven't tried it yet, but when I do then one of the first things I intend to look at is how it performs noise wise under load.

how exactly you measure this? I have ordered two different units.

1. 9V/5.5A with 65VA R shape transformer - to feed RaspDAC Audiophonics DAC I-Sabre V3 ES9023 TCXO

2. 12V+16V/1A 30VA R shape transformer (dual unit) - to feed Clearaudio Concept + Clearaudio Nano phono

[Marco]

trying to say this new RPi is not as good as previous.


does the RPi 2 do same job using less power? Yes, it does (RPi2 PSU req-1A>;RPi3 PSU req-2.5A>)

does the RPi 2 produce less heat doing same job? Yes it does (more efficient)





Why are you so obsessed with virtually irrelevant power consumption and heat? :doh: :rolleyes:

What *matters most* is the performance upgrade in the hardware section, with the RPi 3, which to my ears and others who use it, translates into superior audio quality (I can go into this in more detail should anyone wish me to do so), and it's faster. The difference this makes is more than subtle!

Watch the video and read the information contained in this link, and realise precisely why the RPi 3 is superior: http://www.trustedreviews.com/opinions/raspberry-pi-3-vs-pi-2

Marco.

[rikardo1979]

Why are you so obsessed with virtually irrelevant power consumption and heat? :doh: :rolleyes:

What *matters most* is the performance upgrade in the hardware section, with the RPi 3, which to my ears and others who use it, translates into superior audio quality (I can go into this in more detail should anyone wish me to do so), and it's faster. The difference this makes is more than subtle!

Watch the video and read the information contained in this link, and realise precisely why the RPi 3 is superior: http://www.trustedreviews.com/opinions/raspberry-pi-3-vs-pi-2

Marco.

if you just thirsty to get better HW, faster performance and always get the newest out there it make sense...but do you really need this to play audio? Do you? No you do not as the RPi 2 does the same with less
Thats all I want to say. I am not saying the speed performance is better. All I said and saying is that the RPi 2 does the exact same job for less and you gain nothing buying RPi3 apart from using bigger PSU
:doh:

[Marco]

if you just thirsty to get better HW, faster performance and always get the newest out there it make sense...but do you really need this to play audio? Do you? No you do not as the RPi 2 does the same with less
Thats all I want to say. I am not saying the speed performance is better. All I said and saying is that the RPi 2 does the exact same job for less and you gain nothing buying RPi3 apart from using bigger PSU
:doh:

In *your* humble opinion, perhaps. I beg to differ!

Have you carried out the comparison yourself in your system, using an IQ-Audio DAC with both units, and judged the subsequent sonic results?

I'm not the slightest bit interested in having the "newest out there", for newness sake, if it doesn't also result in superior performance - but if it does (as is undoubtedly the case, to my ears, with the RPi 3), then I of course want whatever it is that's better, which is why I've upgraded accordingly.

Simples :)

Marco.

[Kit1cat]

if you just thirsty to get better HW, faster performance and always get the newest out there it make sense...but do you really need this to play audio? Do you? No you do not as the RPi 2 does the same with less
Thats all I want to say. I am not saying the speed performance is better. All I said and saying is that the RPi 2 does the exact same job for less and you gain nothing buying RPi3 apart from using bigger PSU
:doh:

But, if the sound quality is better with the pi3 that's reason enough to warrant a upgrade, if SQ is your main priority?

[StanleyB]

how exactly you measure this?
I got a female to male DC adapter that has four DC plugs. They are on eBay. One plug goes into the equipment to be powered up. One of the other plugs goes into a spare DC socket. And the scope probe clips onto the soldering pins of the DC socket. The scope should be set to the AC range. Set the voltage range on the scope to 1V initially so that you don't overload the input to the scope.
Keep the equipment under test OFF. Turn the voltage gain on the scope down towards whatever the lowest setting is on your scope whilst observing that the waveform that you see is still within the scope's display area. You can then read off the display the overall noise performance under no load condition.
Then once you have had the unit powered up for a while to get warm etc. turn the voltage gain on the scope down towards whatever the lowest setting is on your scope whilst observing that the waveform that you see is still within the scope's display area. You can then read off the display the overall noise performance under no signal condition.
Do the same test again, but this time play some really loud music so that the equipment under test is drawing as much current as possible. You could use a sweep tone sinewave turned up to max before clipping. That way you can see if there is any noise performance change relative to the frequency spectrum. You can then read the noise performance under operating conditions.

[The Black Adder]

I just want to know what the pi3 gives over the pi2 sonically... If I get one and it fails then that's just tough but as far as I can see so far the pi3 with the IQAudio DAC seems stable.

By all means do the tests but I really can't see using the pi2 or pi3 with the IQAudio dac stressing them out to the point of meltdown. If there is a problem with the Pi3 in the first place then there should be a revised unit coming out, surely?

[rikardo1979]

if it doesn't also result in superior performance - but if it does (as is undoubtedly the case, to my ears, with the RPi 3), then I of course want whatever it is that's better, which is why I've upgraded accordingly.
.

​A moot point. :smoking:
(not measurable)

[rikardo1979]

But, if the sound quality is better with the pi3 that's reason enough to warrant a upgrade, if SQ is your main priority?

does it? I know people saying different. In my ears? Same, or if there is any difference is not audible on my system.
Again this is personal opinion only. You can not measure this

[rikardo1979]

I got a female to male DC adapter that has four DC plugs. They are on eBay. One plug goes into the equipment to be powered up. One of the other plugs goes into a spare DC socket. And the scope probe clips onto the soldering pins of the DC socket. The scope should be set to the AC range. Set the voltage range on the scope to 1V initially so that you don't overload the input to the scope.
Keep the equipment under test OFF. Turn the voltage gain on the scope down towards whatever the lowest setting is on your scope whilst observing that the waveform that you see is still within the scope's display area. You can then read off the display the overall noise performance under no load condition.
Then once you have had the unit powered up for a while to get warm etc. turn the voltage gain on the scope down towards whatever the lowest setting is on your scope whilst observing that the waveform that you see is still within the scope's display area. You can then read off the display the overall noise performance under no signal condition.
Do the same test again, but this time play some really loud music so that the equipment under test is drawing as much current as possible. You could use a sweep tone sinewave turned up to max before clipping. That way you can see if there is any noise performance change relative to the frequency spectrum. You can then read the noise performance under operating conditions.

yup, scope...have none at home ;)

[rikardo1979]

I just want to know what the pi3 gives over the pi2 sonically... If I get one and it fails then that's just tough but as far as I can see so far the pi3 with the IQAudio DAC seems stable.

By all means do the tests but I really can't see using the pi2 or pi3 with the IQAudio dac stressing them out to the point of meltdown. If there is a problem with the Pi3 in the first place then there should be a revised unit coming out, surely?

you not going to set it on fire with playing audio ;) as it does not need much to do this ;)
It just going to be hotter than old version

[struth]

Lots of things run a bit hotter than others, it doesnt mean very much. Class a runs very hot but rarely causes any probs if normal care is taken. If folk here like Duncan and Marco reckon it sounds better then i will be inclined to accept it as they both have a lot of experience. Duncan is an engineer and seems to think that its not running much hotter than the 2. The figures i found back this up.

[Marco]

I just want to know what the pi3 gives over the pi2 sonically...


Deeper, more extended bass, with greater control and attack, more open and expressive midrange (most noticeable with vocals), better filigree detailing at the top end, and overall superior resolution.

My suspicion is that the partnering IQ-Audio DAC has responded well to being 'driven' more efficiently by the superior processing power of the RPi 3, and that along with PSU benefits, is responsible for the improved sound :)

Marco.

[Marco]

you not going to set it on fire with playing audio as it does not need much to do this
It just going to be hotter than old version

So *why* does that matter so much to you - why keep going on about it, like a broken record? Do you live in a greenhouse?? :rolleyes:

Take off your shirt if you get too warm. The Pi likes feeling cosy ;)

Marco.

[rikardo1979]

Lots of things run a bit hotter than others, it doesnt mean very much. Class a runs very hot but rarely causes any probs if normal care is taken. If folk here like Duncan and Marco reckon it sounds better then i will be inclined to accept it as they both have a lot of experience. Duncan is an engineer and seems to think that its not running much hotter than the 2. The figures i found back this up.
im an electromechanical engineer myself and I live with computers since 1990 ;)

[rikardo1979]

So *why* does that matter so much to you - why keep going on about it, like a broken record? Do you live in a greenhouse? :rolleyes:

Marco.

we all do

[struth]

im an electromechanical engineer myself and I live with computers since 1990 ;)

Im an electronics engineer... Dont mean much!;)

[rikardo1979]

Im an electronics engineer... Dont mean much!;)

just cos u mentioned someone else is an engineer so we should rely on his opinion only ;)

[Marco]

​A moot point. :smoking:
(not measurable)

Well, it's as "moot" a point as made by anyone else offering a subjective opinion on any other aspect of audio, so would you dismiss the views of someone reporting hearing significant benefits from the purchase of, say, a new CD player, simply because the superior performance they were reporting wasn't measurable? ;)

It's the exact same thing with my views on the Pi 2 versus the Pi 3.

Marco.

[The Black Adder]

ok.. so because it gets warmer than the Pi2 (for me) will not change the fact that if the processing power is still higher and because of that the DAC will respond better with faster and more linear instructions surely?

So I can see where your coming from, it gets warmer... but 'that' isn't enough to say that it's not going to perform (in this case with the IQAudio DAC+) in a worse way or for that even have a full overheating failure.

So, in this case as outlined above I'd rather discuss the benefits of it's processing power with the IQAudio Dac+ and how we can solve the extra warmth with some kind of heat sink maybe if anyone is troubled with it?

Let's not get in to a rutt about the extra warmth and talk about the sonics because until I hear of this combo 'actually failing' it's not going to worry me in this case because the thing is cheap, easy to replace and even downgrade back to a pi2 if needs be. It's also not going to set my rack or anything else on fire either.

[lurcher]

if the processing power is still higher and because of that the DAC will respond better with faster and more linear instructions surely?

Err, no. I wont get involved in if the Pi3 sounds better/worst/the same as the Pi2, as I have not heard a Pi3. But the rate of data flow to the DAC is controlled by the data rate of the sound being played. The clock speed in the processor wont alter the interface to the DAC or the operation of the DAC. If the Pi is being asked to do some audio processing, then that may be a different matter, but in general I dont think it is. The fact the Pi3 is 64 bit would make very little difference to the playing of music, at most the data will be 24 bit so fit in a 32 bit word anyway. Also, if the Pi2 has enough processing power to route the data to the dac, the the faster Pi3 will still have enough power to do the same job. if its doing nothing else, it will just spend more time idling. If its being asked to also drive a GUI if you are not using it heedlessly, then the extra power may be of some use to the GUI or web server.

I can't think of anything that would be close to what you mean by "linear instructions", as far as the processor is concerned a op code is a op code, no really such a thing as doing it better or worst.

I can imagine any number of things that may make the two boards sound different, but I dont see where you can with confidence say "faster processor" == "better sound"

[The Black Adder]

Ah.. okay, fair enough, thanks Nick... that's me told then. lol :) - Just trying to understand things.

[Marco]

Let's not get in to a rutt about the extra warmth and talk about the sonics because until I hear of this combo 'actually failing' it's not going to worry me in this case because the thing is cheap, easy to replace and even downgrade back to a pi2 if needs be. It's also not going to set my rack or anything else on fire either.

Unlike a certain [ahem]...... :eek: :eyebrows:

Marco.

[lurcher]

Ah.. okay, fair enough, thanks Nick... that's me told then. lol :) - Just trying to understand things.

Just because there are things we don’t understand, doesn’t mean there are not some things that we do :-)

[struth]

Like women

[Marco]

...who shave regularly.

Marco.

[larky]

I like my women like my Pi...HOT :bonk:

[Bonky]

Gentlemen, with all due respect, this has jumped somewhat off-topic, and perhaps the last 'pages' should be moved to another forum.

I have though, a few questions/comments, (BTW I have a RPi2 + IQ Audio - BUT have just upgraded to the latest Audiophonics Sabre 3).

I am 68 yrs old so have lost my 'top-end' (in both meanings) BUT...

1. I think the Sabre is slightly better than the IQ Audio (excellent value btw). The timbre of instruments with the Sabre seems clearer/sharper... the instruments seem to be at the forefront of the soundstage...

2.Has anyone else, rather than Marco, (whose views I respect), compared the Rpi2 with the Rpi3 ? Is it really better and if so why? (the last question is just an interesting adjunct to the former).

3. If the RPi3 runs hotter than v2 - is this important in our sphere? - especially if the temperature increase can be decreased somewhat by a suitable heatsink?

4. Does anyone know of a suitable enclosure for my system...the Audiophonics one seems good but, expensive, only for the Rpi2(?), and being metal, will restrict the operation of wireless and Bluetooth (neither of which I use at present...but who knows...?). I hear of many people making their own cases from (plastic) LEGO!

5. I believe I've read somewhere that SQ can be improved still further by having separate power supplies to the RPi and the DAC board. Is this the case? Has anyone tried it? How does one do it?


Thanks,

BW

Richard.

[walpurgis]

Thread drift is normal.

[struth]

Its a feature of AoS that threads occasionally go off on a slight detour. :) Ive got one of the guitar guy's wooden enclosures. its in the banner at top actually. It has plenty holes on bottom for breathing etc. Ive rpi 2 and audiophonics dac. dont know the sabre 3 but it may fit. You have to drill out the rca holes yourself.

[NRG]

Err, no. I wont get involved in if the Pi3 sounds better/worst/the same as the Pi2, as I have not heard a Pi3. But the rate of data flow to the DAC is controlled by the data rate of the sound being played. The clock speed in the processor wont alter the interface to the DAC or the operation of the DAC. If the Pi is being asked to do some audio processing, then that may be a different matter, but in general I dont think it is. The fact the Pi3 is 64 bit would make very little difference to the playing of music, at most the data will be 24 bit so fit in a 32 bit word anyway. Also, if the Pi2 has enough processing power to route the data to the dac, the the faster Pi3 will still have enough power to do the same job. if its doing nothing else, it will just spend more time idling. If its being asked to also drive a GUI if you are not using it heedlessly, then the extra power may be of some use to the GUI or web server.

I can't think of anything that would be close to what you mean by "linear instructions", as far as the processor is concerned a op code is a op code, no really such a thing as doing it better or worst.

I can imagine any number of things that may make the two boards sound different, but I dont see where you can with confidence say "faster processor" == "better sound"


Yes exactly but with respect Nick you don't 'hear' an RPi. Also it's worth mentioning the RPi can be over clocked from its default setting so faster CPU or mem bus is going to make f-all to zero difference to the DAC.

[Marco]

...yet, to my ears, it clearly sounds better than than the RPi 2, when no other variables have been changed, so what's responsible for that sonic improvement? I can assure you that it's not imagined.

Marco.

[rikardo1979]

Gentlemen, with all due respect, this has jumped somewhat off-topic, and perhaps the last 'pages' should be moved to another forum.

I have though, a few questions/comments, (BTW I have a RPi2 + IQ Audio - BUT have just upgraded to the latest Audiophonics Sabre 3).

I am 68 yrs old so have lost my 'top-end' (in both meanings) BUT...

1. I think the Sabre is slightly better than the IQ Audio (excellent value btw). The timbre of instruments with the Sabre seems clearer/sharper... the instruments seem to be at the forefront of the soundstage...

2.Has anyone else, rather than Marco, (whose views I respect), compared the Rpi2 with the Rpi3 ? Is it really better and if so why? (the last question is just an interesting adjunct to the former).

3. If the RPi3 runs hotter than v2 - is this important in our sphere? - especially if the temperature increase can be decreased somewhat by a suitable heatsink?

4. Does anyone know of a suitable enclosure for my system...the Audiophonics one seems good but, expensive, only for the Rpi2(?), and being metal, will restrict the operation of wireless and Bluetooth (neither of which I use at present...but who knows...?). I hear of many people making their own cases from (plastic) LEGO!

5. I believe I've read somewhere that SQ can be improved still further by having separate power supplies to the RPi and the DAC board. Is this the case? Has anyone tried it? How does one do it?


Thanks,

BW

Richard.

1. I have same DAC as you, I-Sabre V3. Sound is great for the money. Have had this down to high end studio and compared to DACs and streamers with price tags close to £4000.
Guys who tested could not believed it cost £150. So yes, is good, very good.

2. I have both versions of RPi. I heard no difference with this DAC in place. I can do a proper tests once I have my LPS which is on the way, as the one I have now is very dirty and noisy

3. You can add a little heatsink but it have to be flat as there is not much room once you attach you I-Sabre DAC

4. I bought the Audiophonics kit and the case is very nice, precisely made and solid. You can replace top lid with acrylic plastic or something else if you like. This can be easily done. I have not tried to fit RPi 3 into this case but they have same layout, mounting holes in same place so it should be perfect fit

5. You can feed them separately if you like, there should not be a problem. But you going to loose nice feature, power management built into this DAC which works great with custom Python scripts on RuneAudio. Same as the little OLED display .
If you want to run separate feed for RPi using this case, you would need to drill extra hole and fit an DC inlet of your choice

[Bonky]

Thanks Ricardo and Marco; very useful. I feel the purchase of a RPi3 coming on. I can live without the complexities of an extra power feed to the DAC.

Still awaiting the Linear PS which I also hope will bring sonic improvements. I hope that both my old Sugden amp (A21A) and my old ears will be able to resolve the differences!

BW

Richard.

[brucew268]

I agree that thread drift is normal in respect to riffing on a topic. But hijacking a thread about liner power supplies to argue *at length* about RPi2 vs RPi3 is a bit ridiculous for those that want to follow the LPS discussion. A little moderating would have been helpful to split off the discussion some time ago.

[walpurgis]

"Thread drift is normal", is expected and can veer off in any direction. There is no rule stating that topics have to be strictly adhered to.

[Marco]

I agree that thread drift is normal in respect to riffing on a topic. But hijacking a thread about liner power supplies to argue *at length* about RPi2 vs RPi3 is a bit ridiculous for those that want to follow the LPS discussion. A little moderating would have been helpful to split off the discussion some time ago.

Hi Bruce,

I know where you're coming from, and if I (or one of the mods) get some time later, we'll move the RPi2 vs. RPi3 discussion into a separate thread. However, all it takes to bring the thread back on topic is for someone to post about PSUs :)

In that respect, you'd be hard pushed to better the Paul Hynes or one from Longdog Audio. If you're truly seeking top-notch performance, IMO, that's where your money should go.

Marco.

[lurcher]

Yes exactly but with respect Nick you don't 'hear' an RPi.

Well, strictly speaking you don't hear any part of a system apart from the loudspeaker, but I think its a shorthand that generally understood.

[rallye666]

I think it was mentioned earlier in the thread but I've had an HD plex 100w power supply for a few months now and love it.

It's a Swiss Army knife of an LPS, as it has 4 independent outputs of differing voltage.

I'm a serial box swapper so that is useful to me. I'm currently using the 5v output for a raspberry pi digi+ and comparing it to an Auralic Aries mini.

The plan is to upgrade to a Chord 2qute dac and make use of the 12v output as well.

Lastly you get a shedload of cables in a nifty velvet pouch to connect just about anything you can think of!

Link if anyone is interested: http://www.hd-plex.com/HDPLEX-Fanless-Linear-Power-Supply-for-PC-Audio-and-CE-device.html

[Carlos-UK-2016]

I also have a HDPLEX-100W - It is built like a tank, and weighs about 6KG.

Key Specification:

Size:250(L) x 180 (W) x 70 (H) mm

AC Input Connector: IEC with EMI Filter
Input Voltage: 110V/240V AC (MAX 260V AC)

DC Output:19V/12V XLR---Aerospace GX16-2/7.4x5.0mm/5.5x2.5mm/5.5x2.1mm Connector image
DC Output:9V/5V Aerospace GX16-2---5.5x2.5mm/5.5x2.1mm/Molex 4PIN (For PPA Card) Connector

+19V(Output Voltage) - 7A(Max DC Current) - 5A(Full Load DC Current) - 0.015%(Output Voltage Tolerance) - 3mV(Ripple Noise)
+12V(Output Voltage) - 7A(Max DC Current) - 5A(Full Load DC Current) - 0.016%(Output Voltage Tolerance) - 2mV(Ripple Noise)
+9V（7.5V-19.5V)(Output Voltage) - 3A(Max DC Current) - 2A(Full Load DC Current) - 0.022%(Output Voltage Tolerance) - 2mV(Ripple Noise)
+5V（Including USB Type C)(Output Voltage) - 3A(Max DC Current) - 2A(Full Load DC Current) - 0.032%(Output Voltage Tolerance) - 2mV(Ripple Noise)

If anyone is curious here is a pic of the internals:

https://raw.githubusercontent.com/rootscript/audio-dump/master/_LPS-images/HDPLEX-100W-LPS/myUnit/20160513_111522.jpg

https://raw.githubusercontent.com/rootscript/audio-dump/master/_LPS-images/HDPLEX-100W-LPS/myUnit/20160513_110939.jpg

Safety:

Overvoltage protection
Overload protection
Overcurrent protection
Short circuit protection

Certification:

CE/EN60950-1 (TCT1405072566S-1)
RoHS (TCT1405074557R-1)
FCC (TCT1405074391F-1)
EMC (TCT1405073270E-1)

:) Carlos

Note: A Paul Hynes LPS is on my list of things I must try. The HDPLEX 100W is filling a gap, until I have time to devote to audio projects which will benefit from a Paul Hynes power supply.

[robtweed]

So this Linear PSU Roundup thread I started some time ago has thrown up some good information, but it's been difficult to compile a round-up list from it. I'm going to try a bit of a summary.

I'd first state that my own specific requirement is to power 2 devices: an RPI (with Digi+ board) (5V Micro USB) and a Caiman II (12V). Currently for best performance, I power both simultaneously from an Anker battery. This works well but a pain because I can't leave them on for days at a time.

There seem to be 2 broad options:

- you go for the cheap Chinese option, but there's been quite a lot of concern that I can see about their electrical safety, and I don't think anyone's done any comparative tests to confirm whether they're actually any better than an Anker, and may even be worse. At least one Chinese PSU provides 2 switchable outlets allowing both devices to be powered from the one unit.

- you go for a British built one or other recognised, reputable and electrically-safe brand. There are probably more but these seem to be the big names from what I can gather:

- SBooster PSUs
- MCRU / Longdog Audio PSUs
- Paul Hynes (probably the SR3 model)

These reputable ones tend to be broadly around the £200 mark each from what I can see, and most only power one device. However this looks to be possibly the best, most cost effective option for my needs:

http://www.mains-cables-r-us.co.uk/power-supplies/1242-mcru-dual-output-linear-power-supply.html

allowing me to power both the Caiman II and RPI from the one PSU. Not sure if it comes with the necessary plug adaptors (eg a micro USB adaptor for the RPI).

Questions:

- would people broadly agree with my summary?
- are there any other contenders in the "reputable, guaranteed safe" category?
- are there any other reputable PSUs that would power both devices at once for less than the MCRU one?

Rob

[rikardo1979]

So this Linear PSU Roundup thread I started some time ago has thrown up some good information, but it's been difficult to compile a round-up list from it. I'm going to try a bit of a summary.

I'd first state that my own specific requirement is to power 2 devices: an RPI (with Digi+ board) (5V Micro USB) and a Caiman II (12V). Currently for best performance, I power both simultaneously from an Anker battery. This works well but a pain because I can't leave them on for days at a time.

There seem to be 2 broad options:

- you go for the cheap Chinese option, but there's been quite a lot of concern that I can see about their electrical safety, and I don't think anyone's done any comparative tests to confirm whether they're actually any better than an Anker, and may even be worse. At least one Chinese PSU provides 2 switchable outlets allowing both devices to be powered from the one unit.

- you go for a British built one or other recognised, reputable and electrically-safe brand. There are probably more but these seem to be the big names from what I can gather:

- SBooster PSUs
- MCRU / Longdog Audio PSUs
- Paul Hynes (probably the SR3 model)

These reputable ones tend to be broadly around the £200 mark each from what I can see, and most only power one device. However this looks to be possibly the best, most cost effective option for my needs:

http://www.mains-cables-r-us.co.uk/power-supplies/1242-mcru-dual-output-linear-power-supply.html

allowing me to power both the Caiman II and RPI from the one PSU. Not sure if it comes with the necessary plug adaptors (eg a micro USB adaptor for the RPI).

Questions:

- would people broadly agree with my summary?
- are there any other contenders in the "reputable, guaranteed safe" category?
- are there any other reputable PSUs that would power both devices at once for less than the MCRU one?

Rob

by looking at map you are not far from me ;) so if you can wait few more days you can come and have a look on those units which I have ordered ;)
They are on the way so I believe 1-2 weeks they should be here, maybe less maybe more
What you think?

[robtweed]

rikardo

You're in Dorset according to your profile? Unfortunately,a bit of a trek from Surrey to be honest :-)

Remind me which units you ordered? I looked back through this thread but it wasn't clear - is it a Chinese unit?

Would certainly be interesting to hear one or two PSUs in action with my gear before buying / committing

Rob

[struth]

So this Linear PSU Roundup thread I started some time ago has thrown up some good information, but it's been difficult to compile a round-up list from it. I'm going to try a bit of a summary.

I'd first state that my own specific requirement is to power 2 devices: an RPI (with Digi+ board) (5V Micro USB) and a Caiman II (12V). Currently for best performance, I power both simultaneously from an Anker battery. This works well but a pain because I can't leave them on for days at a time.

There seem to be 2 broad options:

- you go for the cheap Chinese option, but there's been quite a lot of concern that I can see about their electrical safety, and I don't think anyone's done any comparative tests to confirm whether they're actually any better than an Anker, and may even be worse. At least one Chinese PSU provides 2 switchable outlets allowing both devices to be powered from the one unit.

- you go for a British built one or other recognised, reputable and electrically-safe brand. There are probably more but these seem to be the big names from what I can gather:

- SBooster PSUs
- MCRU / Longdog Audio PSUs
- Paul Hynes (probably the SR3 model)

These reputable ones tend to be broadly around the £200 mark each from what I can see, and most only power one device. However this looks to be possibly the best, most cost effective option for my needs:

http://www.mains-cables-r-us.co.uk/power-supplies/1242-mcru-dual-output-linear-power-supply.html

allowing me to power both the Caiman II and RPI from the one PSU. Not sure if it comes with the necessary plug adaptors (eg a micro USB adaptor for the RPI).

Questions:

- would people broadly agree with my summary?
- are there any other contenders in the "reputable, guaranteed safe" category?
- are there any other reputable PSUs that would power both devices at once for less than the MCRU one?

Rob

didt know the anker did 12v... must be an older one. was looking originally for one myself but they seem few and far between, and expensive. You may find thatb having one for each is way to go although may take up more room. Caiman when not in use may not use much power, so a battery may be fine with that, and have a switched charger connected so you just flick a switch instead of all the plugging and unplugging. and if you like having the rpi on all the time then a nice linear supply thats happy to be on all the time.

[rikardo1979]

rikardo

You're in Dorset according to your profile? Unfortunately,a bit of a trek from Surrey to be honest :-)

Remind me which units you ordered? I looked back through this thread but it wasn't clear - is it a Chinese unit?

Would certainly be interesting to hear one or two PSUs in action with my gear before buying / committing

Rob

2hrs drive is not that bad ;) https://goo.gl/UW1IOy

I have ordered these two

http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?43846-Linear-PSU-roundup&p=754555#post754555

http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?43846-Linear-PSU-roundup&p=754650#post754650

[Bonky]

Well, although the due date was June the 8th, my new dual linear PS from China arrived yesterday (May the 19th). It seems well constructed. I added an earth and a beefier mains cable. (I have a DIY mains screened cable on order from MRCU).


The Linear PS is this one : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Hifi-2-way-linear-power-supply-DC-2-USB-preamp-DAC-external-linear-PSU-sn/111328891082?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D36925%26meid%3Df10e59783e374dde95e3472feb77 0817%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dp p%26sd%3D111312388829

The new PS supplies a Caiman2 and RPi2. There was only 0.1v drop from both sides of the PS when the two items were connected.

I'd rather not leave the new PS on all the time but dislike the idea of 'pulling the plug' on the Rpi as it may mean the contents of the card may be compromised. Does anyone know of a suitable switch that, when operated, will shut the Rpi down 'nicely'?

The Audiophonics DIY case appears to have a switch with just two wires. (http://www.audiophonics.fr/en/diy-dac/audiophonics-raspdac-kit-diy-network-player-for-raspberry-pi-20-dac-p-10511.html). Will this do the job if I buy a Maplin's version? I know one can write a bit of Linnux code but I would prefer to use the RPi in its 'headless' form.

How do others turn off their Rpis? Would the RPI3 be better as it has better power management features?

Thanks,

Richard.

[struth]

If you power down in software of program then you just then switch the psu off.. The caiman will go off to though. Otherwise you would need a inline switch.. You can get different ones on ebay. Ive got some for my batteries but they are usb..
When i used mine i just clicked on power off then flipped switch on psu switching psu back on powers on again

[Bonky]

Thanks G,rant,

So in other words, if I turn off Volumio/Moode etc, it's perfectly OK to switch off the RPi (as long as the green light isn't flashing.)?

Thanks,

Richard

[struth]

It takes about a max 10 secs I'd say to be ok to shut down Moode. Not sure about the others. I found Volumio a tad touchy on corruptions in its early days but I would imagine its better now. Ive never corrupted a moode card. so yes once it stops flashing I guess.. I just wait 10 secs or so (min)and then switched the psu off. I do same with the battery supply now.

[sondale]

I found this link on DiyAudio, it shows how to shutdown an RPi cleanly, I have not tried it so no guarantees.

https://matthew.mceachen.us/blog/give-your-raspberry-pi-a-shutdown-switch-for-free-1397.html

On my RPis I add a momentary switch which connects to a two-pin header labelled P6 or RUN, this allows you to Reset the RPI simply.

[Bonky]

Thanks both. Alan, I couldn't get your link to work.

BW

Richard

[sondale]

Yip, the link is broken on DiyAudio as well. I assume his pc is turned off!

If it comes back up I will try to copy the details, but basically it involves adding a USB device, writing a very simple script to recognize when it is removed and shutting the RPi down. Apparently any old USB device that the Pi recognizes as valid will do!

Hopefully more soon.

[25x]

Out of interest did someone check into a lead acid 12 volt battery like this?
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?keywords=Panasonic%20LC-RD1217P

I personally used the supplied switching PS for my 2Qute DAC for maybe two weeks and switched to such battery then. It´s a night and day experience so far and not going back to the Chord PS. But no clue if a real good linear PS would sound even better or not. Any experience?