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karma67
07-03-2016, 18:04
if any one uses these would they very kinda tell me what size the frame is please,looking at the photo i would guess 30mm x 30mm

http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj548/jamiecreig123/_3oiipo_zpsx90zgiig.jpg

danilo
12-03-2016, 20:47
Looks like something Torquemada would have used during his inquisitions

Chris
25-03-2016, 19:31
Mine are 43 x 31 ( distance between downward pointing spike points ). Perhaps you are thinking of sound bases which were for use under speakers and were basically square. I seem to remember 2 sizes: mine are roughly 28 x 26.

karma67
26-03-2016, 07:19
thanks for the info mate,i made mine in the end to suit the speaker base :)
http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj548/jamiecreig123/IMG_0222_zps2vqncob3.jpg

Audio Advent
26-03-2016, 21:42
Very nice! Did you spot weald them or do the full seams (very neatly if you did!)?

karma67
27-03-2016, 06:42
thanks they are fully welded on the underside.
i plan to do a mk2 version as ive found out from searching that the original ones were made from bright angle iron (square edges) and are smaller,mine are 40 x40x5 where as the originals are 25 x25x3, also ive found out who supplied the original lamented boards.i also used m10 spikes instead of m8.
what and if that all makes a difference is anyones guess lol

CageyH
27-03-2016, 06:47
Nice and neatly done.

karma67
27-03-2016, 19:01
thanks Kevin,
Ive been playing around with spike height and locknut tightness today and you really wouldn't believe the difference it makes in the sound.
Marco recommended having them as low as possible and from finger tight just an 1/8 of a turn with the spanner. well i concentrated on doing that today and boy what a difference! I can say now i get the whole mana effect "thing" .

Marco
27-03-2016, 20:35
Cool... I've been messing around with/optimising these stands for about 15 years, so it would be rather unfortunate if I hadn't learned anything! ;)

Marco.

karma67
17-04-2016, 14:11
ok so ive been busy with the welder again and here we have the mk2's,
this time ive used 25mm x 25mm bright angle and laminated mdf boards,more in keeping with the originals :)

http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj548/jamiecreig123/IMG_0290_zpssn4p1ws7.jpg

http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj548/jamiecreig123/IMG_0241_zpspxnkibee.jpg

http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj548/jamiecreig123/IMG_0291_zpsnoszi4vu.jpg

Audio Advent
17-04-2016, 22:43
"Bright angle" - would you mind explaining the difference as I can't see it . :)

I've typed this now... but I guess I can also look it up myself.

Audio Advent
17-04-2016, 22:45
They do look great by the way.

karma67
18-04-2016, 15:36
"Bright angle" - would you mind explaining the difference as I can't see it . :)

I've typed this now... but I guess I can also look it up myself.
yes its a better quality steel with no imperfections and square edges instead of the normal rounded off edge.

Marco
20-04-2016, 20:43
Looking good, Jamie! So are you using the two of them together as a kind of 'Phase 2' arrangement? How do the MKIIs compare, sonically, with the previous versions? :)

Marco.

karma67
21-04-2016, 16:20
thanks,yes that's how im using them.
they sound much better than the first pair i made,wrong choice of angle iron there,they were too big and no flex.the choice and size of the angle iron is the key,also using Formica on mdf(like the real ones). they is a distinct tone with these when tapped.
my only reservation is maybe the spikes on phase 2 should be reduced in size?

Marco
21-04-2016, 17:55
Yup, both sets of lower spikes could be considerably shorter, especially the top pair. However, you've got the 'stubbies' spot on :)

Marco.

lapperman
14-02-2017, 15:49
I would like to get custom frame and sound base made in the mana style. I have a couple already with shelf spacing of 160mm These are not wide. enough
Looking at 175-200 mm gap between glass and next shelf.

Can you offer any advice.

Marco,

I seem to have read somewhere that your had some made clones made in stainless steel, what other improvements did you make?

If I am having to pay to have one made it would be great to understand what can be done.

Jamie
those stands you made looked pretty good to me.

Dean

Marco
15-02-2017, 08:00
Hi Dean,

No improvements other than having the frames and spikes made in non-magnetic stainless steel, which was a *BIG* improvement! Otherwise, all else remained the same. If I can help any further, let me know :)

Marco.

lapperman
17-02-2017, 07:59
Hi Marco,
thanks for the info.

Did you go for the same size 20x20,3mm in Stainless? Who supplied the SS screws, would I be able to order from them?

Next I have to find a local metal fabricator who works in Stainless steel.

I'll let you know how I get on.
Cheers
Dean

karma67
17-02-2017, 08:13
dont forget to ask who makes them to use either 'bright' stainless steel or 'bright' mild steel,its what mana used,the only difference is the edges are squared off instead of rounded off. :)

Marco
17-02-2017, 08:30
Did you go for the same size 20x20,3mm in Stainless? Who supplied the SS screws, would I be able to order from them?

Next I have to find a local metal fabricator who works in Stainless steel.

I'll let you know how I get on.


That's your challenge, and to do it right, you'll need to give then a stock piece of Mana (rack or Soundstage, etc) and let them copy it *identically*, including how the corners are welded, so you end up with the *exact* same item, only constructed from non-magnetic (make sure it is, as some SS is magnetic) stainless steel. And that includes the spikes/nuts.

I used a fabricator in Wrexham (not sure if they're still there), but there are bound to be a few near you. Also, in terms of identically replicating, the same applies with the glass shelves, so you'll need an original piece of glass to copy, especially to remove the 'tuning strips' from it (therefore try and find as many as you can), so that the glass resonates at the correct frequency, when 'tuning' the shelves with the spikes.

I can measure mine and let you know the dimensions, if required.

The boards are simply MDF, but make sure that they're cut to the exact size and thickness of the originals, and that you have them laminated (as per the originals), to minimise spike sinkage. After that, it's all down to the set-up, which unfortunately in order to optimise is a bit of a black art! ;)

Good luck and let us know how you get on :cool:

Marco.

Yomanze
17-02-2017, 11:23
Can't say that I've noticed the negative impact of having angle iron in my Mana rack & sound table, plus they look much cooler than the later stainless ones. :P

lapperman
17-02-2017, 16:47
The reason for looking at a clone is that all three of the mana frames I have, none of them have a big enough gap between the bottom shelves. Ideally I would like 200mm.

I could chop a shelf out, that would solve the problem I suppose.

I also need a sound base to go under the second frame to even the look up.

just have to see what happens what I can find.

Marco
17-02-2017, 21:08
Can't say that I've noticed the negative impact of having angle iron in my Mana rack & sound table, plus they look much cooler than the later stainless ones.

Lol - how can you tell the difference, daftee, when both are sprayed black? :)

Sonically, I can tell you that there is a *BIG* difference between ferrous and non-ferrous Mana. Trust me, I've done the comparison! ;)

Marco.