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farflungstar
03-02-2016, 15:26
Not sure this is the correct place to post but be gentle with me as I'm a newcomer and don't know my way around yet.

I'm aware that the mechanical coupling of cart to arm and arm to armbase is very important - however could the armbase 'float' on opposing magnets as with the Yamamoto devices? 4 of these support up to 12kg of weight so given a heavy enough armboard, perhaps slate or dense hardwood would the forces generated by the stylus in the groove be enough to cause problems with arm ?
Adrian

walpurgis
03-02-2016, 16:40
Didn't I just speak to you elsewhere about this? :scratch: :D

lurcher
03-02-2016, 17:11
What would you be hoping to achieve?

Remember all the cartridge is doing is "measuring" movement of the stylus tip with respect to the cartridge body.

IslandPink
05-02-2016, 17:51
Motor noise comes up from the plinth to the arm to some extent with most decks, particularly with things like Garrards. Getting some sort of isolation in there tends to help - I found even having fibre washers separating my OL arm from the plinth on the 401 ( solid Maple plinth ) made a big difference to the treble tone and soundstaging .
I'm not sure trying to 'float' the arm isn't going to give you a whole load of problems though - you've got to maintain arm position/alignment, plus if the arm+board doesn't have quite enough inertia to resist the stylus movements on bass frequencies then you timing is going to suffer.
I'd experiement first with just having a compliant layer between the armboard and whatever it mounts to. This will provide a mechanical low-pass filter & may be enough . Mass in the armboard/pod is obviously helpful .

Barry
05-02-2016, 19:46
Motor noise comes up from the plinth to the arm to some extent with most decks, particularly with things like Garrards. Getting some sort of isolation in there tends to help - I found even having fibre washers separating my OL arm from the plinth on the 401 ( solid Maple plinth ) made a big difference to the treble tone and soundstaging .
I'm not sure trying to 'float' the arm isn't going to give you a whole load of problems though - you've got to maintain arm position/alignment, plus if the arm+board doesn't have quite enough inertia to resist the stylus movements on bass frequencies then you timing is going to suffer.
I'd experiement first with just having a compliant layer between the armboard and whatever it mounts to. This will provide a mechanical low-pass filter & may be enough . Mass in the armboard/pod is obviously helpful .

Hence the compliant rubber grommets around the armboard fixing screws on SME's sliding armbase bedplate. Some have found the removal of these beneficial; others have prefered to retain them. It depends on the deck; there are no fixed rules, one has to experiment.