Supreme Sound Audio discrete Op-amp upgrade

[SS-Audio]

Hello guys! this is Charles from Supreme Sound Audio, a Burson audio subsidiary. We are an Australian based audio company.

It has been 10 years since we released the first generation of discrete opamp module, today after 5 generations of development the team has released the most beautiful sounding and most polished creation the V5 SS opamp.

http://www.ssaudio.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/SS-Opamp-V5-S2.jpg

Link (http://www.bursonaudio.com/products/supreme-sound-opamp-v5/)

Compared to the Gen 4 op-amp which already been called one of the best sounding by many audiophiles around the world, the V5 requires less voltage and current. Which translates to higher level of performance when applied to most audio applications.

We would like to invite fellow DIYer's and Audiophiles to try the new V5 opamp in their projects at no charge.

To apply please take the following steps:

**Please post an external view of your current gear
**Please post an top down internal photo of your current gear. (see example below)
**Stocked Op-amp model in the unit.
**Brand and model of the unit you plan to use.

http://cloudfront.bursonaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/step3.jpg

Round 1:
We will select a few guys from the thread to send the free sample. (We will also announce selected participants on this thread)

Once all the participants have posted their impressions and project photos, we will have the next rounds. That means, more people will be able to participate and try the new V5.

[Puffin]

I have a modified Marantz CD63 in which I replaced the dual op-amps with Audio GD discrete op-amps. This was probably about 2 years ago. I had intended to try different ones but never got round to it. Would be happy to try these if I am selected. Will try to get some pics.

[Light Dependant Resistor]

Hi
It would be advisable to advise to power the DAC or player down and leave for 5 mins , and use a proper insulated removal tool
as the image you show is connecting a non insulated screwdriver that is touching the negative voltage supply, pin 4 of a NE5534
with close to 15 volts , and likely touching other pins at the same time and shorting that voltage.

Maybe think about supplying a recognised IC removal tool, to your customers.
For those who choose to use a screwdriver, at least slip some suitable length heat-shrink
over the metal shaft, thereby insulating.

Cheers / Chris

[CageyH]

Interested in this for a Pioneer PD-S703.
I believe it is fitted with a pair of RC4558 op amps.

I can post pictures when back at home, after Christmas.

[Desmo]

What is the installed height of these? I'd be interested in trying some for my Myst G-Ohm pre amp, but there is limited headroom in the casing.

Thanks.

[AlfaGTV]

Hi Charles!

I'd be very interested in participating in this experiment. :)
As i have a Karan combo of the pre KA L and Power amp KA S180 of the original version i have been in Contact with the European distributor of Karan concerning upgrading the Pre to MkII/MkIII status. That is actually about upgrading four OpAmps to discrete modules by Karan.

I have considered your products as i have read a lot of good feedback on them. And it would also be more economical!

The kit looks like this:
http://www.ollars.net/karan/KALKAS180_S.JPG (http://www.ollars.net/karan/KALKAS180_L.JPG)

And these are the primary suspects:
http://www.ollars.net/karan/KAL_IPB_S.JPG (http://www.ollars.net/karan/KAL_IPB_L.JPG)
They are two Burr Brown OPA2604AP for the primary input buffer(?) and two Burr Brown OPA2134PA for the first gain stage.
Of course, there are more sockets to be filled but these four are the ones that are replaced with discrete op amps in the KA L Mk III that reputedly sounds noticeably "better".
This is an overview of the pre:
http://www.ollars.net/karan/KAL_OV_S.JPG (http://www.ollars.net/karan/KAL_OV_L.JPG)

The are a couple of BB OPA2604AP in the secondary stage too, and then there are four OPA627AP in the balanced output gain stage, but these are calibrated and it would be a little complex to exchange them. However,still very interesting!

If it turns out well, there are a few OP Amps in the KA S180 input stage too;
http://www.ollars.net/karan/KAS180_OV_S.JPG (http://www.ollars.net/karan/KAS180_OV_L.JPG)

The details can be seen here:
http://www.ollars.net/karan/KAS180_B_S.JPG (http://www.ollars.net/karan/KAS180_B_L.JPG)
The OPA's in the poweramp are these:
3pcs of BB OPA2604AP's per channel or the input stage. Then there are two BB OPA445AP per channel driving the Sanken output trannies, but these are calibrated, like in the KAL.

There's some work to be done here, don't you think? :eyebrows:

PS: All the images are clickable for higher rez one's.

[SS-Audio]

Thanks for the replies and your interest guys,

We realize that some of you are on holidays break, but feel free to post pictures once you have a chance.

I'm attaching a pic with the SS-Opamp dimensions :

http://www.ssaudio.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/SS-Opamp-V5-Size.jpg

Also, thanks for your suggestion Chris.

Best regards
Charles

[Marco]

Hi Charles,

Don't forget that you need to populate your new sub-forum, here: http://theartofsound.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?105-SS-Audio

...by posting a thread in it, introducing members to your company and its products. Please do this ASAP, as otherwise it looks bad when your 'shop' is lying there empty!

Cheers :cool:

Marco.

[SS-Audio]

Hi Marco,

Thanks for the reminder. It's up now :)

[Marco]

Cheers, Charles. Much appreciated. It's for your own benefit to use the facility. Good luck! :)

Marco.

[Puffin]

I am interested to know what benefit pictures of the piece of kit that might be chosen to test these devices will be to you. If anyone here has posted an interest in trying these op-amps, then they know what an op-amp is and will have the necessary skill to fit them.

[Audio Advent]

Because Burson Audio have a lot of testimonials from customers up on their website along with photos - helps people see what can be done and give example of what has already been successful.

[Colin Wonfor]

Hi Charles,

Have you a technical spec?
What are the noises figures?
What is the power rail requirements?

Best Colin

Happy New Year

[SS-Audio]

I am interested to know what benefit pictures of the piece of kit that might be chosen to test these devices will be to you. If anyone here has posted an interest in trying these op-amps, then they know what an op-amp is and will have the necessary skill to fit them.

As Rob said (and thanks for that), we have a gallery of DIY projects from users all over the world. They are used as a reference for people attempting to do the same modification/upgrade.

Regarding specs, i'm leaving a link with the Datasheet.

(V5 Datasheet (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxn23njCr8VCR19ELS1YOTMxV00/view?pref=2&pli=1))

Thanks so far for your comments and feedback guys, we still need a few participants to start our first round.

[Starterman]

As Rob said (and thanks for that), we have a gallery of DIY projects from users all over the world. They are used as a reference for people attempting to do the same modification/upgrade.

Regarding specs, i'm leaving a link with the Datasheet.

(V5 Datasheet (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxn23njCr8VCR19ELS1YOTMxV00/view?pref=2&pli=1))

Thanks so far for your comments and feedback guys, we still need a few participants to start our first round.

I would be interested in trying a couple of dual devices in my active crossover. I only have one opamp per channel in the signal path in my system so it's quite easy to hear the sonic signature if the device in circuit. The electronic crossover is set to 120Hz to integrate my 2-way speakers with my electronically corrected stereo LF system - this has a -3dB @ 10Hz with a 1st order rolloff. I also rolloff the input at 10Hz by capacitor coupling. The reason for these ludicrously low corner frequencies is not to produce bass that induces sickness, but rather to have exemplary transient response at LF. The benefit of this is that bass overhang does not mask the critical mid and treble.

Looking at the (rather sparse) spec of the VS device it looks like it would work well in this application - assuming it is unity gain stable. The JFET inputs will not cause any accuracy errors in an electronic filter circuit and OL gain should be sufficient.

I am currently running a pair of OP275s, but have a wide range of opamps to compare with. I use the Technics virtual battery regulator principle (78/7915 and low noise opamp to servo out the noise) and have found this to be the best sounding regulator of the many 10s I've tried.

I have tried several discrete opamps (e.g. Jensen JE990 and Stan Curtis' System A etc). I have yet to hear a discrete opamp that sounds less intrusive than a good opamp. Hopefully the VS can change this!

BTW my entire system is home made. There is not much point in posting pics - it's just a few black boxes and some generic looking speakers.

[SS-Audio]

Hi Dave,

You are welcome to participate, our V5 has been widely used on different audio applications with good results. If you have op-amps to compare with that is even better :)

[Starterman]

Hi Dave,

You are welcome to participate, our V5 has been widely used on different audio applications with good results. If you have op-amps to compare with that is even better :)

OK Thanks!
Do you have any recommendations for the best regs to power your VSamps? (I expect you will say your own :-))

Here is the board they will be tried out in:

http://s13.postimg.org/nq2dqhatj/IMG_0198.jpg

[SS-Audio]

OK Thanks!
Do you have any recommendations for the best regs to power your VSamps? (I expect you will say your own :-))



Our op-amp can be powered by any regulated power supply. Of course the more well built and well designed power supply the better the overall audio performance. :)

[Puffin]

Is this still happening? If so I will take some pics.

[Starterman]

Not sure if we showed enough interest.

[Barry]

I would be interested in trying a couple fed from +/- 12V or +/- 15V.

[dowser]

Micromega Stage 5

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1633/25036327276_78c1ee849a_b.jpg

Only had audio cct smoothing caps replaced with much higher values so far, and a snubber added over the AC winding. The implementation is pretty good on this player, but I will be looking to try different opamps. Supply is +/-10v.

DAC/Audio PCB;

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1508/24864920352_579982969e_b.jpg

OP opamps - note there is no output cap, the pot is to adjust for 0v offset, so final opamp would need to support this;

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1661/24864915002_172f93542f_b.jpg

Original layout (before silly-sized smoothing caps :));

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1686/24313581963_2089d4c231_b.jpg

Richard

[Puffin]

Internal of CD63 showing Audio GD discrete op-amps.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i239/saxonsex/WP_20160310_10_01_49_Pro_zpsujlr2srd.jpg

For anyone who is interested other mods are a Trichord Clock 4.2, multiple voltage regulators in place of current limiting resistors (some are DIY low noise), a JLH Ripple eater on the PS, Panny Caps replacing standard PS caps, HDAM modules by-passed and other stuff that I probably can't remember:D

[Puffin]

The Op-Amps arrived yesterday and I fitted them today. Initial impressions - very good. Will report back in a couple of weeks time.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i239/saxonsex/WP_20160330_15_41_19_Pro_zpsvkemxuch.jpg

[Puffin]

Who else got some of these?

[Qwin]

I wasn't aware of this thread till today, but I used the V5 modules in my active x-over for my Yamaha NS-1000M speakers.
Much better than any of the opamps I tried.

http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?36385-Yamaha-NS1000M-Tweaks/page9

I have another 6 on the way.

[Starterman]

Who else got some of these?

Not yet. How did they know where to ship them?

[Qwin]

I would be interested in trying a couple fed from +/- 12V or +/- 15V.

I think +/- 15v is the absolute maximum, might be better with +/-12v.

Check the link to the spec sheet on post #14.

[Qwin]

The Op-Amps arrived yesterday and I fitted them today. Initial impressions - very good. Will report back in a couple of weeks time.



I found they take about 50 hours to settle in.

[Puffin]

Yup, 48 hours on constantly and ......boom:D

[AlfaGTV]

Well, I decided to take the plunge too, since I was not chosen for a free trial. 4 Dual V5's on the way for evaluation in my Karan KA L Pre...

[Qwin]

http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Yam/yam_34.JPG

Parts arrived from Burson, so no op amps at all on the active crossover boards now, all 10 are discrete modules. Based on the other sets, they will take 50 hrs to run in, but even after 5 hours they are sounding much better than the last of the op amps they replaced.

AlfaGTV - how you getting on with them Mike?

[AlfaGTV]

:) As a matter of fact they arrived day before yesterday and got installed yesterday evening! (Sorry, no piccies)

The short version of why im trying these;
The Karan KA L, while an excellent pre amp by all accounts, reputedly sounds "much" better in its Mk III incarnation. Judging from pictures only the Mk III only differs in having four discrete Karan amp modules replace a pair of OPA2604 and one pair of OPA2134.

The problem is the £900 fee for the four discrete modules from Karan...
So i thought i'd try and get close by using these Burson OPA-V5 at around 20% of the cost!

The modules have been powered up and running in for about 20hours now and i am very much enjoying the differences in sound quality.

I am experiencing an increase in gain which often fools me into believing i am liking it better! ;) I am also enjoying an increase in resolution which so far is not always better, but right now i think is more honest to the source material or is this a graininess which i havent heard before?
The bass is faster, tighter and more tuneful. Initially there was less of it but a few hours in i didnt miss anything. For some reason i also experience a calmness and less strained performance from most source material?

Basically, very satisifed!
And, there you go Burson, all praise even though i had to pay for the modules! ;)

[Qwin]

That's good news Mike.
In my active crossover filters I found they go through 3 different run in stages.
They initially sound a bit sibilant, after about 5hrs this reduces and they sound very bright and bass'y with a recessed, muddy mids (esp vocals) and seem to have more gain/loudness, very punchy sound.
After 20 hours the mids start to clean up and come through,changing the tonal balance, sounds less loud, less punchy.
At around 50 hours everything sounds more transparent and the detail level increased, a very balanced and natural sound which has the right amount of sparkle and deep Grunt when needed.
I couldn't detect any changes beyond this point.
On the three pairs of duals I have run in they all followed the same pattern and the changes happened within a small window, at around the intervals indicated. YMMV.

[Puffin]

:) As a matter of fact they arrived day before yesterday and got installed yesterday evening! (Sorry, no piccies)

The short version of why im trying these;
The Karan KA L, while an excellent pre amp by all accounts, reputedly sounds "much" better in its Mk III incarnation. Judging from pictures only the Mk III only differs in having four discrete Karan amp modules replace a pair of OPA2604 and one pair of OPA2134.

The problem is the £900 fee for the four discrete modules from Karan...
So i thought i'd try and get close by using these Burson OPA-V5 at around 20% of the cost!

The modules have been powered up and running in for about 20hours now and i am very much enjoying the differences in sound quality.

I am experiencing an increase in gain which often fools me into believing i am liking it better! ;) I am also enjoying an increase in resolution which so far is not always better, but right now i think is more honest to the source material or is this a graininess which i havent heard before?
The bass is faster, tighter and more tuneful. Initially there was less of it but a few hours in i didnt miss anything. For some reason i also experience a calmness and less strained performance from most source material?

Basically, very satisifed!
And, there you go Burson, all praise even though i had to pay for the modules! ;)

i think is more honest to the source material or is this a graininess which i havent heard before?

Yes! a bit of a pain at times, but certainly shows up poor recordings/engineering. I had a "Prince" day yesterday and some if his stuff is a bit harsh but overall I think the V5's are brill.

[AlfaGTV]

Completely agree Puffin!
Its not tearing lesser recordings apart though, still enjoyable. Besides, most of my music sounds markedly better. Due to changing two operational amps for discrete amps, who would've thunk?
Basically, my Karan has gone from very good, but a bit laid back, to a neutral, dynamic and very expressive preamp that improves each and every source component.
All this while maintaining its blackness, literally and otherwise! ;)

Now, how big an improvement would changing the other two pairs of OPAs make?

[Puffin]

More is not always better. I discovered to my cost when starting to tweak components that if you go too far you end up chasing your own tail. You think...Mmmm these sound great, lets replace all the op-amps or caps or resistors with "audiophile quality" replacements. It can work, but you can waste money.Of course you can always put the old op-amps back.......BUT the demons of all audio will have altered the originals beyond all recognition so that when you turn it on it sounds nothing like it did before:eek:

A bit of an exaggeration, but I have torn my hair trying to get back to what I had.

[Qwin]

"More is not always better."

Finding this on my 3-way active crossover, which now has a full compliment of 10 dual channel V5 modules fitted.

I'm still fiddling with levels etc trying to optimise things, it's amazing how the high frequency output effects the perceived upper bass content and punch.

I'm finding certain op amps sound good in the HF filter and impart a richer feel to the upper mids and are tonally more like the original passive crossover, but at the cost of being a bit more resonant/sibilant and not quite as transparent.
You can drive yourself mad with the endless tweaking.

[Puffin]

You can drive yourself mad with the endless tweaking.

Don't remind me......Please!

[AlfaGTV]

Hmm, i sure hope i suffered some bad luck... Other than reliability issues, that is...
One of the discrete Bursons has developed a fault. Causes crackles and pops intermittently... Burson has been contacted accordingly.
Damnit, i was so pleased with the results!
:<

[Puffin]

Bummer. I had a fault on a Dac years ago, took me ages to believe that an expensive Analog Devices Op-Amp had gone bad.

[AlfaGTV]

The problem has been identified! The Burson V5-OPA-D is sensitive to overriding their voltage limit! Unfortunately the Karan drives it's OPAs quite hard with a voltage supply of -/+18V. The Burson can only take -/+16V :(
However a representative from Burson has assured me that the V4, which accepts these voltages, will be very nearly as good sounding as e V5's! They should be on their way right now!

[Qwin]

Yes, their V5 spec sheet recommends max -/+ 15v

Good that they are taking the trouble to try and find a solution for you, I have found them to be very helpful with my project.

[AlfaGTV]

Today i recieved a big letter from Australia with two pairs of V4 Dual discrete opamps. :) They are already installed in the Karan, bedding in! Sounds very good initially!

Good customer service, though not particularly fast correspondence, have resolved all issues!
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160524/a82e348eeacab3e67c2adfce1d616ee1.jpg
These guys reputedly can take the pounding from the Karans power supply!

Nice touch to deliver these in aluminium tubing, by the way!

[Ikemen]

Best way to buy these in the U.K. anyone?

[Qwin]

Buy them direct from Australia for best price, contact Burson Audio on their web site.

I am currently experimenting with a mix of Burson v5 and Sparkos Labs which works better for me.
Sparkos are from the USA, but you can buy both as a BIN or make an offer on eBay UK from time to time, I made an offer for mine.
Sparkos: http://sparkoslabs.com/discrete-op-amps/

See what I'm up to here: http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/SAP_HTML/SAP_13.html

[Ikemen]

Thank you for the pointer. I see the offer option on eBay for the Sparko's. Would love to know what you offered them:)

Burson V5i are £40 in England, so I will work it out.

LM4562 were suggested elsewhere, at £2.50 each! I could do with six dual channels, so...

[Qwin]

LM4562 are my favourite monolithic op amp for the KMTech circuit that I used. But mix and match gives better results, than using one type throughout.

I can't remember how much I paid for the single channel Sparkos, I remember they were more expensive than the Burson v5 and I think I offered $8 per unit less than the ebay asking price at the time (November).

Who is stocking Burson in the UK?
Audiophonics in France keeps them, a pair of dual channel are 149 Euro.

[Ikemen]

Good to hear the LM4562 are decent. Gives a cheap alternative to the Bursons to try on my four way crossover.

UK seller for Burson V5i
http://www.itemaudio.co.uk/upgrades/815-burson-discrete-op-amp-dual.html
I've never used them myself.

[Qwin]

Those V5i you link to, are not true discrete units, they are a hybrid, mixing a small SMD chip plus discrete components in a small package.

The V5 proper are fully discrete and a lot taller and as you might expect, more expensive.

Never tried the V5i so I can't comment on how they perform.

[Ikemen]

Indeed, V5i are £39, versus the V5 at about £65. Lots of reviews on Head-fi;
http://www.head-fi.org/products/burson-audio-supreme-sound-opamp-v5i/reviews

I see Profusion Plc are another U.K. seller.

[SS-Audio]

Hey guys,

I know it's been a while but, we are willing to send more V5 and V5i (newer model) to anyone who post here. Just let us know what audio equipment you want to mod and how many units.

Cheers :)

[Ikemen]

Hey guys,

I know it's been a while but, we are willing to send more V5 and V5i (newer model) to anyone who post here. Just let us know what audio equipment you want to mod and how many units.

Cheers :)

PM sent! Another Najda DSP owner gave the below comment, which is the benefit I am hoping to get from these V5 units.

"I've just ordered 3 paris of dual Burson Op-amps for my Najda DSP. These are a plug and play upgrade and are reported to be a great upgrade. Bigger bang for buck than linear PSU and much bigger than DAC changing.
Will cover analogue input and output stages"

[Qwin]

Results are always application specific, and can never be deemed universal.
In my case, using the KMTech analogue crossover boards and after much experimenting, I found the best combination was to use a Sparko's discrete for the input buffer and Burson V5 discrete in the crossover filters. This gave the most natural sound reproduction in my opinion and was slightly better than using the Burson V5 throughout, regarding timber with piano and texture in vocals for instance. This of course was with my choice of amplification and drivers. YMMV.

I am very pleased with this combination. :)

[Ikemen]

Received three Burson duals last week as part of the test offer, and after positive initial impressions I have given them some hours of play every day since and I am more excited about what they do for my system, which is as follows:
Najda DSP preamp
Nao Note II speakers with dual Alpha15a drivers for the bottom end.
Anaview ALC0180 and AMS0100 on each side
Mini Pc running Linux based WTFPlayer into Amanero USB port on Najda preamp
205402054120542

I have the Bursons on one and a half speakers at the moment, since I was sent three initially with the rest to follow, which is not enough for this four way active system. However, the impact on my particular system is huge. LM833N are the stock opamps in the Najda which are supposed to work very well, though my system seems to need more, as I will detail below.

Test track - Straight Through Boogaloo from Lyn s Une
The first test I went for was turning amps on cold, playing a track which at -10db is loud and I have to turn down towards the end because the congestion of drums and other instruments going full whack becomes annoying, more noise like. Switch in the three Bursons and play again - immediately I am thinking the volume has gone up, yet the setting is still -10db. Secondly, the drums are sounding more real. But the biggest moment for me is I do not have to turn the volume down as usual at the end, since rather than annoying me at the end, I am now enjoying the crescendo at the end of the track

So initially, it is like the volume level is gone up, which I am thinking is dynamics. Big moments in the music have become enjoyable, rather than collapsing. Further listening yesterday says I am hearing much greater realism in my music, where before I was not really convinced and hence my system was getting a lot of movie time rather than music time. That should change now.

Anaviews lack an input buffer, and my Najda are run SE output at 3V, so I am wondering if the Bursons are adding much needed strength to the signal. This is a guess based on my reading about the Anaviews.

I will add more later as it arises. Thank you to Burson for the opportunity to try these!

[Mr Kipling]

Firstly, my thanks to Charles for offering a couple of V5i devices to try, and apologies for not responding sooner.

The devices were tried out in the output stage of a Technics SL-P1200 CD, initially replacing the 5532s, and later the 5238s.

Have to say, I was a tad disappointed. With the better slew rate, I was looking for better dynamics and attack. Didn't present itself, however. There did appear to be a better flow to everything, and the LF part of the spectrum had a fuller sound. At the cost of this, however, was a certain loss of clarity, sense of precision and dynamic. Previously, I have tried the LM4562 which offered better upper bass snap and attack, but again, there was a price to pay in a loss of bass texture and extension. A metal can type LME49720 had also been tried. This had everything sounding really boring, and didn't last long. So, it seemed like the original 5532 was best suited.

Next up was replacing the 5328s. Here the difference was more marked: a much greater sense of space was evident, but there was a problem with noise and they seemed to be getting pretty hot. So I reverted back to the originals.

That was last Saturday. A short time ago I had another try replacing the 5532s. This time I was struck at how "musical" the strands of a mix sounded and how the upper bass had more body. On balance, I'd now forego the the clarity and precision with the 5532s and use the V5is.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170708/9516de0b59274d055c5abc7745e8b54b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170708/b64e46a17a1b339cbb84c033ced1a831.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170708/42f75fb90a96404eec7a0015866f927d.jpg

Thanks again to Charles for the opportunity to try the V5i.

Do you want them back!?!

Sent from my CUBOT_NOTE_S using Tapatalk

[Arkless Electronics]

Firstly, my thanks to Charles for offering a couple of V5i devices to try, and apologies for not responding sooner.

The devices were tried out in the output stage of a Technics SL-P1200 CD, initially replacing the 5532s, and later the 5238s.

Have to say, I was a tad disappointed. With the better slew rate, I was looking for better dynamics and attack. Didn't present itself, however. There did appear to be a better flow to everything, and the LF part of the spectrum had a fuller sound. At the cost of this, however, was a certain loss of clarity, sense of precision and dynamic. Previously, I have tried the LM4562 which offered better upper bass snap and attack, but again, there was a price to pay in a loss of bass texture and extension. A metal can type LME49720 had also been tried. This had everything sounding really boring, and didn't last long. So, it seemed like the original 5532 was best suited.

Next up was replacing the 5328s. Here the difference was more marked: a much greater sense of space was evident, but there was a problem with noise and they seemed to be getting pretty hot. So I reverted back to the originals.

That was last Saturday. A short time ago I had another try replacing the 5532s. This time I was struck at how "musical" the strands of a mix sounded and how the upper bass had more body. On balance, I'd now forego the the clarity and precision with the 5532s and use the V5is.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170708/9516de0b59274d055c5abc7745e8b54b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170708/b64e46a17a1b339cbb84c033ced1a831.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170708/42f75fb90a96404eec7a0015866f927d.jpg

Thanks again to Charles for the opportunity to try the V5i.

Do you want them back!?!

Sent from my CUBOT_NOTE_S using Tapatalk

Any amplifier suitable for audio has a response speed vastly faster than you're ears could possibly interpret as "speed" "fast transients" etc. When an amp sounds "fast" etc it has zero to do with the amps actual slew rate etc ;)

[Mr Kipling]

Fair enough.

Today when I listened, I was wondering if the sense of musicality was related to the greater slew rate.

Sent from my CUBOT_NOTE_S using Tapatalk

[SS-Audio]

Guys,

In case you haven't noticed, we have released our newest creation: The v6 vivid and classic (https://www.bursonaudio.com/products/supreme-sound-opamp-v6/).

Let me know if you want to test this new version on your own gear.

[Airharder]

Guys,

In case you haven't noticed, we have released our newest creation: The v6 vivid and classic (https://www.bursonaudio.com/products/supreme-sound-opamp-v6/).

Let me know if you want to test this new version on your own gear.



Hi SS-Audio Team, I would be very interested in testing the new v6 vivid and classic opamp in my Najda boxed DSP. I would be happy to receive 6 samples shipped to Germany.
Of course I would post a detailed review about my experience here in the forum.

Please send me a message, where I could send you my shipping address.

Best, Airharder

Best

[Bigman80]

First of all, I would like to thank Charles for his patience!! This review has been a while in the making.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170803/0041fab395823812c4332a818858badf.jpg

My current phono stage (Firebottle OTP MK2) is using NE5532 opamps from TI. We have tried multiple variations of opamps. Burr Brown, Texas Instruments and the other usual suspects. We decided on the NE552 due to its clarity and exceptional tonal ability.

Swapping in the V5 delivered everything i didn’t know i wanted!

Let me explain,

Well designed valve phono stages are a thing of beauty. Airy vocals, sweet midrange, smooth and detailed treble and deep, solid bass. Solid state phono stages are usually more immediate and clean sounding, sometimes analytical. Well, imagine now having the best of both worlds, all for the sake of swapping the NE5532 for a pair of V5’s.

That’s where i find myself while i listen to the 50th Anniversary SGT. Pepper. I have listened to this album almost continually since i bought it a few weeks back. I thought this was a fantastic recording. Now it’s a fantastic performance. With the V5’s, It sounds like a living breathing performance. Every track has realism and emotion. Timbre and depth and best of all, the wind instruments now sound, well, windy! It’s not subtle either. The crescendo of the brass sections are stirring and the vocals, well, they are stunning. Still there in the mix is the grip you get with solid state. The detail retrieval hasn’t suffered as far as i can tell and the clarity is also “as you were”. There is guts and drive to each track.

So, would i recommend them – Yes!!!!

Are they worth the money – lets look into this a bit.

The range of opamps we tested were all under £15 (over estimate) and there were some good performers. A favorite of ours was the NE5532 which cost around £1.50 a pair.

The V5’s cost £53 + VAT (£65ish)

SO, are they X42 better than the NE5532? Well, no, BUT is the investment of £63 a lot for the amount of improvement (IMO) to the sound presentation? – NO!

Hearing is a funny thing. No two people usually agree on what they hear. I love what the V5’s are doing to the music. I highly recommend them.

Note: Phono stages need alterations to the offset when opamp rolling with discrete opamps. Please be prepared for some adjusting and soldering if you wish to try Discrete opamps in a phono stage.

[Qwin]

Guys,

In case you haven't noticed, we have released our newest creation: The v6 vivid and classic (https://www.bursonaudio.com/products/supreme-sound-opamp-v6/).

Let me know if you want to test this new version on your own gear.

Charles I sent you a PM.

[Starterman]

Guys,

In case you haven't noticed, we have released our newest creation: The v6 vivid and classic (https://www.bursonaudio.com/products/supreme-sound-opamp-v6/).

Let me know if you want to test this new version on your own gear.

I would be very interested to try them in my active crossover. I would need 2 dual devices.
More info in post #15 (although I have changed my opamp choice and PS since then).

[gaskopp]

Guys,

In case you haven't noticed, we have released our newest creation: The v6 vivid and classic (https://www.bursonaudio.com/products/supreme-sound-opamp-v6/).

Let me know if you want to test this new version on your own gear.

hello,
I have an Audinst HUD-DX1 here and i will upgrade it. I know you have a kit of V5i for it, but i want to use two of the V6 amps.
To make space, i will use a bigger case for the DAC/HPA, so there will be no problem for that.
The problem ist, i don´t know if my amp has enough power for the V6 and which version i should take.
I like warm sound with strong Bass and much details. I use a DT990 250 ohm headphone.
So i think i will use the Classic version.
Looking at the diagramm, the classic is exactly like the V5, except a massive increase of colour and texture.
I would also like to try both, but thats too much money for me right now. But i know, they are cheap for its performance.
If you want, i can make a test and review with the classic version in the DX1.

I hope it doesn´t look like i´m here only for get somewhat for free. Actually i want to hear your opinion, if the V6 will work and which one i should choose.
thanks a lot,
Karsten

[Qwin]

Charles - A pair of V6 Vivid Duals arrived today.
Hopping to compare with the V5 later in the week. ;)

[Starterman]

When I got back from holiday at the weekend there were a pair of V6 classics wating for me :). Many thanks for the opportunity to try these!!

Initial impressions are that they are indeed rich and warm sounding. I will run them in and assess further before coming to any conclusions.

[Qwin]

When I got back from holiday at the weekend there were a pair of V6 classics wating for me :). Many thanks for the opportunity to try these!!

Initial impressions are that they are indeed rich and warm sounding. I will run them in and assess further before coming to any conclusions.

I need to fit "Vivid" in my analogue active crossover, DSP in place at present.
We should compare notes on the two types.
What's your application?

Ooops I see it is also an active crossover, who's are you using?

EDIT: Just changed over to analogue crossover and fitted the "Vivid" Duals, running them in for a few days.

[Starterman]

My analogue active crossover is by Audio Kits.
This seems to be no longer available and all the info on the net seems to have disappeared.

[Qwin]

Review of V6 Vivid

Application:
Three way speaker, with analogue 2way active crossover (310Hz LR 24dB/Oct) split for bass, the high pass then going through a passive crossover to split for the mids/twtr.
Sparkos Labs ss3601 discrete opamp for input buffer and combining of balanced input signals, V6 vivid duals for high pass and V5 duals for low pass. 1% Vishay PP caps, 1% Takman metal film resistors.

Decoupling.
Rather than put a decoupling cap across the dual rail power pins on each module, I used a 4.7uf Tantalum and 0.1uf Ceramic cap (in parallel) between each modules voltage pins and the PCB ground plane, soldered directly to the dip8 socket pins. After much experimenting with the V5 modules, I found this works better with a dual supply, increasing detail and transparency, compared to a single ceramic across the +/- pins.

The V6 Vivid modules went through a three stage run in sequence, similar to what I experienced with the V5, but took a little longer for the final change.
I experienced changes at 5hrs, 20hrs and around 90/95 hrs, so Bursons advice to run them in for 100hrs seems right.
Between 20 and 90 hrs they had an overly rich and tubby sound with slight sibilance, prominence of the top and bottom end with the mids well back in the mix.
Around 90 hrs and there was a very rapid change, within a few tracks everything snapped into focus, the mids were brought up to the right level, the bass cleaned up and the sibilance was gone. Quite a major change when it happened, prior to this I was thinking, these are too warm and soft, what the hell are the V6 Classics going to be like, if they lean even further that way.

I think Bursons description/comparison using the bar graphs is an accurate one, compared to the V5 there is increased transparency and detail, not that the V5 is lacking, compared with monolithic op amps. But the Vivid sound is ultra clean and if accuracy is your goal these could be for you. As it happens, over an extended listening period, I found them a bit too top end forward in my set up, which is very slightly the bright side of neutral. I liked the extra detail, but preferred the tone of the V5 with my gear. I swapped them round and used V5 for high pass and V6 Vivid for low pass. This was much better, the bass is so fast and clean and the top end is now more to my liking. I know the down stream passive crossover is going to have a major influence on the mids/top but even taking that into account, the overall contribution of the V6 shines through. With my current set up I think the V6 Classic will be better suited for my high pass needs. The beauty is you can mix and match, tailoring the sound to work with your partnering gear. This set up works particularly well with my vinyl front end. I really, really want to try the Classic now. :D

Congratulations Burson, V6 Vivid, Job well done.

[Qwin]

Charles,
This is the semi active speaker I used to evaluate the V6 Vivid.

http://www.jkwynn.co.uk//Project_Images/SAP/sap_14C.JPG



And this is the active crossover I use for development purposes.

http://www.jkwynn.co.uk//Pics/Vivid_1.JPG




Close up, the V5 is at the front (hi pass) and the V6 Vivid at the back (Low pass)

http://www.jkwynn.co.uk//Pics/Vivid_2.JPG

This configuration works very well, but I'm now curious as to what would happen if the V5's were replaced with V6 Classics?
Note I am running these at +/-12vdc (Regulated).

[Qwin]

Review of Burson V6 Classic

http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Pics/Bur_03.JPG

I tried a pair of V6 Classics in my test bed 2-Way analogue active crossovers (Orange Module).

Only one channel is shown but both channels were fitted with V6 Classic in the High Pass filter and V6 Vivid in the Low Pass filter, input Buffer is a Sparko Labs discrete unit.

I gave them 110hrs run in before critical listening and as previously the final changes took place around 90 hrs. The final change however, was much more subtle than with the V6 Vivid, so from 30 to 90 hours they sounded pretty close to their best, with just a small change audible at 90+ hrs. The Vivid changed quite a lot at this point, certainly more noticeable.

Again the Burson bar graph gives a pretty accurate picture of the strengths and I wont say weaknesses, because it is really describing their flavour, which will either compliment or work against the balance of the rest your system. So it's horses for courses, with no best version between the two. Your personal taste is going to have a big influence on which you prefer.

My comments reflect how they sound with my partnering gear and is subject to my own preferences.
The differences are subtle and not night and day polar extremes.

The Classic is Richer, compared to the Vivid, but less transparent, hand claps are softer with leading and trailing edges on some digital tracks not as crisp. Yet hand claps on Grace Jones - Night Clubbing (Vinyl) were very sharp. Overall I preferred the analogue source over digital with it.
Sibilance is very Low with the Classic and subtle vocal traits and textures are well portrayed.
Acoustic instruments seemed to benefit from the Classic, electronics and electric guitar less so.
Harmonica and harpsichord sounded particularly good.
There is a nice fullness to bass drum.

So I have tried V5, V6 Vivid and V6 Classic.
My favourite combination is V5 for high pass and V6 Vivid for low pass.
In my application it just works so well, clarity, slam and detail that monolithic op amps can't come close to, rhythm and pace in spades, this combo can boogie. :D
You will have to think long and hard about which will compliment your own system depending on what your audio expectations are.
Burson have produced units with subtly different tonal colours and by mixing them the possibilities are endless.

[Svend N]

Here's a solution for those wanting to adapt a dual-in-line 8 pin (DIP8) connector such as on the Burson op-amp, to a single-in-line (SIL) 8-pin socket. In other words, this adaptor will let you swap out an op-amp having single-in-line 8 pins with a Burson unit:

http://cimarrontechnology.com/so8dip8tosiladapterpn060301.aspx

http://cimarrontechnology.com/images/products/detail/060301_web.JPG


I recently used two of these to install discrete op-amps (not Burson, unfortunately -- sorry Charles, but I couldn't find your products here in Canada) into a Teac VRDS-10 CD player which had the single-in-line sockets. I can vouch that they work perfectly. This adaptor allows the use of these discrete op-amps in components that would otherwise be unable to accept them.

Note that they will cause the op-amps to lay on their sides, so make sure there is enough room beside the sockets.

Hope this helps someone.

As an aside, I was VERY impressed by the improvement in sound quality out of the Teac after adding the discrete op-amps. Far more dynamic, punchy and lively, deeper and tighter bass, and more gain. Combined with the addition of a discrete clock board, this transformed the Teac into a truly excellent player. Well worth it, and highly recommended!

Regards,
Svend

[SS-Audio]

Hi guys,

Thanks everyone who took the time to post your honest evaluation on our discrete op-amps.
@Svend, thanks for the suggestion. I'm sure this will come in handy to fellow diy'ers.

[gaskopp]

Hi,

i bought a pair of dual V6 classic for my Audinst HUD-DX1.
It comes in the well known package and i build them in soon. But at the first test i was very disappointed. I hoped i get a better sound with warm sounding, more bass an even more details and soundstage.
Unfortunately the was nothing of it to hear for me. It sounds even worse than the muses 8920.
So i gave them time to burn in. I heard music for about 30 -40 hours, but it didn´t sound better. After some days the hights in some songs sound even scratchy and another problem came up.
When i powerd on my PC and the DX1 there was a scratching tone on the left channel. It only went away, when i wobbled the opamp in the socked. I changed the two opamps, but the problem stayed at the one opamp.
This was not the solution that i wanted. I described my problem to the very good working support team and got the answer soon.
Maybe the DX1 has not enough electrical power for the V6. This caused also the scratching hights.
So i sent the V6 regrettably back and got two V5i for the replacement. (When i put the muses back in the amp, it sounds really better)
So the V6 are not bad!!! Only my Headphoneamp has too few power.
After less than two weeks the V5is arrived and i put them in the sockets, turned on the amp and was exited.
I did not expect that good sound from the these small opamps.
They sound better from the first second. Especially more bass. That what i wanted and more or better sound in every way. So clear details and hights.
Now i am very satisfied with it. Simply happy with the voluminous sound that i wantet and got now.

So now i know, it depends on more than only the newest and strongest opamps.
Thanks at the Burson Audio Support Team for the fast and easy help.

[Qwin]

Karsten - 30 to 40 hours is not long enough.
Less than half the 100 hours that is recommended.
From my own experience of x12 v5 duals x2 v6 Vivid and x2 v6 Classic they need this.
The v6 Vivid for instance, started out ok and after the initial 4 to 5 hrs settled quite nicely, but lacked mid range detail. Then went down hill and were actually quite poor at 30 to 60 hours and didn't fully settle till around 93 hours, where within the space of a few tracks they completely changed in character to being very good indeed. The bass tightened up and it was like I had changed mid range drivers, suddenly it was all there. I listened a lot in the first 20hrs then every 10 to 12 hrs with them just playing to themselves in between.

I use the same tracks each time I evaluate, so I know how it should sound and if anything is being over/under emphasised.

The overall result will depend on your application/system/taste, I just don't think you gave em long enough for a decent shot.

Bypass caps are also important. I found, after extensive testing, that with a dual rail power supply the stock method of a 0.1uf ceramic across the rails was not that good for sound. I used a 0.1uf ceramic and a 4.7uf Tantalum in parallel attached to each of the op amp power pins and each attached to the PCB ground plane. This is a set up recommended in several of the monolithic-chip op amp spec sheets and it works well with the Burson units. I tried the Burson recommended film cap across the rails but this was not as good in my application. The rule seems to be, Single supply = cap across the power/gnd pins. Dual supply = cap/s from each power pin to Gnd plane.

Non of this may have effected your end choice, just giving folks the benefit of what I have tried and had success with. :)

[gaskopp]

Maybe you´re right.
But the V5i sounds good and better than the Muses from the first second. They fit in the original case ect. ect.
The V6 should impress me so much, that it want to build a new case. But it doesn´t. (In case of lack of power i think)
And there is no way, that the amp scratches when i turn it on and no sound is playing. That´s a damage or too few power.

Now i´m happy and that is the most important thing.

[Qwin]

Now i´m happy and that is the most important thing.

Absolutely :)

[SS-Audio]

Guys, thanks for sharing your projects and keeping the conversation going. Can't believe it's been 2 years since we started this thread. If anyone would like to try any Burson opamp (V5i, or V6) please let us know your project and we will arrange a free sample.

[Funnyx]

Guys, thanks for sharing your projects and keeping the conversation going. Can't believe it's been 2 years since we started this thread. If anyone would like to try any Burson opamp (V5i, or V6) please let us know your project and we will arrange a free sample.

Charles,

I would love to test the V6 Vivid Single opamps in my analog chain. I’m a big vinyl lover and I recently replaced the fixed opamps (OPA134PA) in my Lehmann Black Cube Phono with 8Pin DIP sockets so I can swap opams more easily.

https://image.ibb.co/e3WE7R/20180111_180452.jpg

I use a modified Technics SL-1210MK2 as source and have a library of over 4500 records. The Technics currently has a Ortofon 2M Bronze cartridge, Funk Firm Achromat, extra damping material inside and Isonoe suspension footers. Currently waiting on a KAB power supply mod and a new RCA cable, but both will be in soon.

As amplifier I use a PrimaLuna DiaLogue Premium HP which drives the GoldenEar Triton Reference speakers.

https://image.ibb.co/euZCu6/20180112_122726.jpghttps://image.ibb.co/cjU6Mm/20180112_122750.jpg

Currently the Black Cube is still using the original OPA134PA’s as I’m waiting for some more 8Pin sockets to fit the other opamps. I found out the hard way that it’s not that easy to get a opamp out of a socket.

If you like me to test the V6’s I would love to do that. It would require 2 x V6 Vivid Single opamps. Also good to know that we’re practically neighbors as I live in New Zealand ;)

Regards,
Steven

[unnerv]

Guys, thanks for sharing your projects and keeping the conversation going. Can't believe it's been 2 years since we started this thread. If anyone would like to try any Burson opamp (V5i, or V6) please let us know your project and we will arrange a free sample.

Hi Charles,

I had come across this while trying to find a good comparison of the v6 classic vs vivid. I just recently acquired a pair of hifiman he-4xx phones and have them paired with a little dot 1+. I have started tube rolling and currently have upgraded the stock tubes to Voshkod 6ZH1P-EV with some Mullard 8100 on the way to try next. I am pretty new to this game but researching opamp rolling on the littledot 1+ seems to be another step in the adventure. If you have any recommendation as to which would compliment the setup best I would welcome your opinion. I think the tubes give some warmth and texture, so I was leaning towards the vivid. There were some older reviews of the Littledot 1+ with the V5, and while it didn't fit with the cover closed, it sounded like it was an amazing upgrade over stock. I am not opposed to milling out the aluminum case to fit taller opamps.

It looks like the stock opamp is an MC33078N
https://i.imgur.com/WNI9BrE.jpg

Little Dot exposed
https://i.imgur.com/M1f4bSd.jpg

Gratuitous glow shot
https://i.imgur.com/YtYOst6.jpg

[Metlor]

Hi Charles, are you able to give any circuit diagram advice ?
I fitted a V5 op amp to an integrated amp last year (after reducing the rail voltages to +/- 15v)
I've just picked up an old rotel pre , with the hope of trying the V6's, there are three opamps inside (one in the tone circuit) but I'm not sure if only one, or both of the others are worth changing ?
Thanks mart

[Qwin]

Hi Charles, are you able to give any circuit diagram advice ?
I fitted a V5 op amp to an integrated amp last year (after reducing the rail voltages to +/- 15v)
I've just picked up an old rotel pre , with the hope of trying the V6's, there are three opamps inside (one in the tone circuit) but I'm not sure if only one, or both of the others are worth changing ?
Thanks mart

I found v5 ran too hot when at +/-15vdc, that is the absolute max on the spec. Much happier at +/-13vdc. If I remember correctly, they ran 30deg C at +/-13 and 50degC at +/-15. That was in a case with the lid off out in the open. In a closed box between two shelves they would probably be higher still. The v6 have vents at the top so run cooler.

[Metlor]

I ran the V5 at 18v for a coupl of hours before I read the spec sheet, I thought it sounded pretty good :-).

The 'new' pre is a rotel rc 972, I think the rails are 14v,
one opamp runs the eq, but im not sure if both the others are in the signal path ?

[Qwin]

Anyone got a pair of the dual channel V6 Vivid they are not using and want to swap for a pair of dual channel V6 Classic?

I am building a new active crossover circuit that requires 7 dual channel modules and I want to run all four of the filter elements as V6 Vivid. I already have two, so looking to acquire another pair of Vivid's. :)

[SS-Audio]

Guys, been quiet for some time but i'm back. For those interested in the op-amp, please send me a PM.

@Metlor, i could speak with our tech guys about your project. Please send me more details.

[unnerv]

Charles replied via PM to me, but I got impatient before he had a chance and ordered a V6 Vivid in the meantime. Unfortunately Burson was out of stock at the time, but I finally got it last weekend. I have only had a couple of hours but it is definately a big improvement over stock. I need to give it some time to break in before I make any real comments, but I will say that it made a really big difference in tightening up the bottom end and everything seem more accurate already. I already feel it was worth the price paid, and I am looking forward to it getting even better.

Here are a few pic I took of the install

https://i.imgur.com/ycGUjQP.jpg
Stock IC replaced. This thing is pretty tall. The cover definately was not going to close over this.

https://i.imgur.com/VpOn5yX.jpg
After some careful measuring I marked the center point of where it should end up poking thru. I stepped up drills from 1/8th inch (~3mm) to 1/2 inch (~12-13mm) then broke out my file set and carefully widened the hole it out and squared it up nice. After about 20 min of careful filework I test fit and got it in one.

https://i.imgur.com/aZrEfkR.jpg
The v6 vivid stuck out a tad longer than the feet. I placed some washers under and just had enough threads left to screw the feet in.




Hi Charles,

I had come across this while trying to find a good comparison of the v6 classic vs vivid. I just recently acquired a pair of hifiman he-4xx phones and have them paired with a little dot 1+. I have started tube rolling and currently have upgraded the stock tubes to Voshkod 6ZH1P-EV with some Mullard 8100 on the way to try next. I am pretty new to this game but researching opamp rolling on the littledot 1+ seems to be another step in the adventure. If you have any recommendation as to which would compliment the setup best I would welcome your opinion. I think the tubes give some warmth and texture, so I was leaning towards the vivid. There were some older reviews of the Littledot 1+ with the V5, and while it didn't fit with the cover closed, it sounded like it was an amazing upgrade over stock. I am not opposed to milling out the aluminum case to fit taller opamps.

It looks like the stock opamp is an MC33078N
https://i.imgur.com/WNI9BrE.jpg

Little Dot exposed
https://i.imgur.com/M1f4bSd.jpg

Gratuitous glow shot
https://i.imgur.com/YtYOst6.jpg

[SS-Audio]

Message sent @Unnerv
A comparison would be great.

[unnerv]

Message sent @Unnerv
A comparison would be great.

I am still pretty new to the hifi audio thing so sorry in advance for poor audio vocabulary. I have to say I am impressed with the difference the v6 vivid made over stock as I had read that opamps typically make much less difference than the tube rolling.

My gear:
Source is Chromecast Audio or Schitt Fulla as a DAC, bypassing the amp.
The amp is a Little Dot 1+ with RTC 5456 tubes. These are supposedly Mullard 8100 that were built for the french military.
Headphones are primarily the Hifiman HE560. I also have the Hifiman HE4xx but I mostly use those with my computer.

Some comments on the stock setup:

Bass was decent, highs were a little on the bright side, which is typical of HE560 from what I have read. With the stock opamp it was a little noise that could be heard in between tracks or in very quiet parts of certain songs. Even with no source you could hear it at zero volume, again not enough to be bothersome unless your room was totatally silent but it was always there an got louder as the volume went up. This was one of the things I was hoping the v6 vivid was going to help with and I was not disappointed.

I have about 20 hours on the Burson v6 vivid now. No doubt it could probably benefit from some more run time, but overall I am impressed. The noise that was present even when at zero volume disappeared. I don't start hearing anything until past the 12 o'oclock position (9 to 10 o'clock is my normal listening position.)

Bass: while the base was pretty good before, it is now much more solid sounding and smoother in the transition to the mids.

Highs: where the highs could be a little harsh on the stock setup and the HE560, the v6 tamed it well. It was still bright but no longer harsh. It is more detailed sounding than before.

I was a little worried that there might be some heat problems since the little dot gets pretty warm on the inside and the opamp socket points downward. My longest listening session has been 4+ hours and no problems so far. I think that the vented end of the v6's casing sitting outside the amp body might help, but again everything sounds good from hour 0 to 4 once the tubes have warmed up.

The little dot 1+ with the Burson v6 vivid is my favorite amp I have listened to with the HE560 by far, including my Magni 3, my brothers Vali 2 and a borrowed Woo Audio W7 with tubed powersupply, which surprised me. My hats off to Burson and Little dot.

[Qwin]

Love your case mod, with the V6 sticking out the bottom.

[CageyH]

Charles,

Your inbox is full.

[SS-Audio]

Sorry Mate, i just sent you a PM.