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peter j
08-10-2015, 13:52
Anyone any thoughts on fitting an SME 3009 S2 Improved removable headshell to a Rega RP3.
I have the arm currently fitted to a Thorens TD 160 Super.
Just fancied something different to look at but not if it's a retrograde step.
I don't want to do it if it's a complete waste of time so would value your comments.
Thanks in advance. Pete.

struth
08-10-2015, 13:58
Id keep it on the thorens and replinth it if not already done. Its a better table imo

Spectral Morn
08-10-2015, 14:00
Rega's did at one time come with that option, before their own arms, but I would go by Grant's advice.


Regards Neil

peter j
09-10-2015, 15:08
Thanks for the advice.
I made a new solid base for the original plinth some 30-40 years ago.I think I will now have a go at stiffening the rest of the base and tart-up the outside a bit.I also used self adhesive damping sheet on the relevant parts of the chassis when I did the base.
I find it hard to spend the sort of money being asked for new bases for what is a very simple construction.Guess I'm just a tight wad.
Thanks again guys.
Pete.

337alant
09-10-2015, 23:04
Agree with the above the TD 160 Super is a far superior turntable , optimize that to reveal the best results
The regas do work well with the Audiomods arms

Alan

walpurgis
09-10-2015, 23:11
Unless you are using a high compliance cartridge, the SME may benefit from a rigid cast alloy headshell. ADC type is perfectly adequate.

(oh, and keep the TD 160 Super!!)

peter j
10-10-2015, 14:30
All good info.
Many thanks.

Pete.

homespun
12-10-2015, 07:59
Hi Peter, not sure you will gain much if anything except for looks, the SME arms and Thorens were always a favourite combination, but it will not be better than the Rega arm on a Rega deck. If you are on an upgrade journey think carefully before you jump in, I have seen so many mods carried out over the years that were in fact retrograde steps rather than improvements. PM me if you want to meet up in Harrow?

Pete

DSJR
12-10-2015, 15:54
I wouldn't recommend trying to fit an SME based arm to a CURRENT Rega deck, what with the fancy cross-bracea and all, but how come all of you diss the Rega in preference to the Thorens. Have any of you actually compared them directly, or is it the eyes talking?

Sorry, but I have compared TD160's with all sorts of arms to Regas. back in the late 70's, KJ weren't Rega dealers, so sold loads of Thorens assorted models instead. We were Linn dealers though and had a few Planar 2's and 3's traded in against LP12's. We always had a TD160/Rega R200 available to do comparisons against and the Planar 2 and Planar 3 always bettered it at the time...

Now, things get a little more complex, because shortly after moving on from KJ in the early 80's to work in one of the top three Linn/Naim/Rega dealerships, Thorens introduced the 160 Super! The beefier plinth really did make a difference, less so the damping pads on the sub chassis and top plate. The heavy mat improved record support and improved the bass I thought and the mdf arm-base was an inspired choice over the nasty plastic SME mount used before.

So, my recommendation is to get a Russ Collinson plinth and get him, or fabricate something yourself , a means that will properly anchor the tonearm and mains cables as they leave the plinth (Thorens used similar cable clamps to that in mains plugs, the Collinson plinths don't seem to use anything at all). I'd probably use a wooden or mdf arm-board instead of the nice looking metal ones (just a hunch here) and use a heavy mat - we liked the old Avon mat at the time and I still have mixed feelings about the squidgy mats of the period... I can't remember now if removing the SME base plate rubber bushings actually made things better, or just 'looked' as if they did.

P.S. A regular change of belt is very important and maybe even a 'Wave Mechanic' type of external power supply would be a good idea too..

peter j
13-10-2015, 18:36
Quite a bit to think about Dave.
I must admit that I could see potential problems with the cross brace on the RP3 but thought I would get around it somehow.
My baseplate of the 3009 looks to be made of plastic.
I am currently using a cork/rubber mat and to me it works fine.Years ago I bought an anti-static mat from Tandy.It was made of a sponge type material and was a great improvement on the original mat.The only reason I stopped using it was because it started to disintegrate with age (a bit like me).
I'm using a 2M red on the arm at present and find it suits me fine. I should add that I haven't bought an LP in well over 25 years.I stopped buying in the 1970s when they started using recycled vinyl,I got fed up listening to clicks and pops.
I will think about a new plinth when my boat comes in.