Help needed to resurrect arcam delta 60........ Please :)

[Us-&-Them]

Hi all
I have amazingly found my old Arcam Delta 60 in my moms loft. I really thought it had got lost when my parents moved house a long time ago in the 90's!!! Its turned up in a big cardboard box that had been squashed by other paraphernalia in a dark corner :rolleyes:

When it was packed away, it was working. When I found it, I noticed that the power cable was still pushed in the 3 pin socket but a lot of things had pressed on it and, inside the unit (when I took cover off) the socket had cracked but nothing else. I left the amp to warm up with NO POWER and to acclimatise. Whilst it was acclimatising, I noticed signs of rust on some of the screws, (no sign of water damage) obviously because of maybe damp atmosphere etc. I went round all switches etc with switch cleaner, I checked all internal fuses and they were good. After 2 days of acclimatising, I applied power; LED lit up, relay clicked and it everything seemed fine. I hooked up a CD player, and 2 speakers and no sound :(

I continued with cleaning contacts and switches etc and suddenly the R/H channel came to life :) I have continued with my strategy of switch cleaner but, as yet, I cant get the left channel to come to life :(

So, the obvious obligatory question, anyone give me any pointers, things to look for, suggestions etc.? I have a schematic but, (d/loaded off net) I am totally pants at electronics. If someone can tell me a few things to do with a multi-meter that can help me diagnose/cure the problem, I would seriously be eternally grateful. I really like that old amp - and even if it is an old unit, I really want it to work again so I can give it my son to use instead of what he uses now (which is really crap). PLEASE, OFFER HELP IN CHILD LIKE FORMAT AS I AM NOT PROFFICIENT IN ELECTRONICS. I DO HAVE A GOOD METER ON LOAN TO ME (FLUKE MULTI-METER).

HELP GRATEFULLY APPRECIATED :)

[spendorman]

Have you tried the different input sockets, e.g. Aux, CD, Tuner and Disc?

[Us-&-Them]

Have you tried the different input sockets, e.g. Aux, CD, Tuner and Disc?

Yes, tried all. Same result. :(

[spendorman]

Not familiar with this amp, if it's got a tape monitor button operate this a few times, perhaps some cleaner.

[Firebottle]

Good suggestion Alex. It can often be just one(or more) that are faulty.

Loz, if you don't have any luck before December I will take a look at it for you when I am over.
I am near Dudley when in the UK, and would like to meet up anyway as I like your style ;)

Give me a shout closer to the time if you still need help.

Cheers,
Alan

[spendorman]

I would be wary of connecting good speakers to an amp that is effectively unknown condition now. Possibility of the output stage putting DC thro speakers.

Perhaps use headphones if there is a socket, there will be some resistors in series with the headphone socket so protecting them

[Us-&-Them]

Not familiar with this amp, if it's got a tape monitor button operate this a few times, perhaps some cleaner.

Hi
Its got 2 tape buttons (tape 1 and tape 2). I did notice that after cleaning the buttons, the sound on 1 channel came back on about a minute or so after. I need to get the cleaner inside to get to the contacts but, I cant find any small access holes that would facilitate that :(. Its the same for most of the buttons/pots (except volume control) so it may mean taking the board out so I can see if there are any holes underneath them that would allow cleaner to get in.

[spendorman]

Some cleaners can dissolve some plastics. I have had good success with Servisol Super 10, it's a lubricant too.

[Us-&-Them]

Good suggestion Alex. It can often be just one(or more) that are faulty.

Loz, if you don't have any luck before December I will take a look at it for you when I am over.
I am near Dudley when in the UK, and would like to meet up anyway as I like your style ;)

Give me a shout closer to the time if you still need help.
Cheers,
Alan

You like my style ................. :lol: I'm glad you do............... I'm not sure everybody else that I know would agree with you; they think I'm mad :D I did plug headphones in and sound only came out of one side of headphones. If its any use, the sound out of the one speaker sounds decent.

[Us-&-Them]

Some cleaners can dissolve some plastics. I have had good success with Servisol 10, it's a lubricant too.

I do use Servisol for cleaning :)

[spendorman]

Any internal fuses after the output stage etc?

[Us-&-Them]

Any internal fuses after the output stage etc?

OK, as I explained, I'm really not technically proficient with electronics but, there are 2 fuses on board which are located in front of the output transistors (which are bolted to the big heatsink on the back). Both fuses are good. I can send you a copy of schematic if you want a quick look???

[spendorman]

OK, as I explained, I'm really not technically proficient with electronics but, there are 2 fuses on board which are located in front of the output transistors (which are bolted to the big heatsink on the back). Both fuses are good. I can send you a copy of schematic if you want a quick look???

"not technically proficient", but you know your way around the amp, that's good. I don't think looking at the diagram would help much at the moment.

When you have the headphones connected, can you hear even a feint hiss or hum from the dead channel?

[spendorman]

I would be careful not to do any possibly further damage and take Alan up on his kind offer to look at the amp.

It looks quite a nice amp, I wonder why it reminds me of my A&R A60's!!

https://flic.kr/p/6RDwkq

[Us-&-Them]

"not technically proficient", but you know your way around the amp, that's good. I don't think looking at the diagram would help much at the moment.

When you have the headphones connected, can you hear even a feint hiss or hum from the dead channel?

No, nothing. I did somehow squirt some cleaner into the internals of one of the buttons and for about 3 secs some music came out of the dead channel (albeit at low volume compared to the other one) and that was through main speakers not headphones. I pressed another button and then returned to CD button and the sound went and did not come back.

[Us-&-Them]

I would be careful not to do any possibly further damage and take Alan up on his kind offer to look at the amp.

It looks quite a nice amp, I wonder why it reminds me of my A&R A60's!!

That sounds like sound advice (excuse the pun) :)

[spendorman]

No, nothing. I did somehow squirt some cleaner into the internals of one of the buttons and for about 3 secs some music came out of the dead channel (albeit at low volume compared to the other one) and that was through main speakers not headphones. I pressed another button and then returned to CD button and the sound went and did not come back.

So it might just be a corroded switch contact. A bit more Servisol perhaps, leave it overnight to act, and perhaps try again. You never know, it might work.

[Us-&-Them]

So it might just be a corroded switch contact. A bit more Servisol perhaps, leave it overnight to act, and perhaps try again. You never know, it might work.

....................... You never know but, I usually aint that lucky :( If it does work then....................... woooohoooo!!

[mikmas]

If it's been stored for a couple of decades in a damp attic I would be tempted to take the top off and take a shufty inside to see if any of the capacitors have leaked rather than spending a lot of time spraying and praying...

Taking the top off shouldn't be too hard and after that you are basically looking for the dustbin shaped components and checking to see whether any are bulged or cracked and also look out for any mess on the board where they are seated in the event that they have leaked - if so, all is not automatically lost and it might be possible to replace them and get it singing again but best wait until someone who knows there stuff can take a look ;)

[Audio Al]

Have you swapped the fuzes from side to side , some fuzes look good but are faulty , or just put 2 new ones in anyway

[Us-&-Them]

Have you swapped the fuzes from side to side , some fuzes look good but are faulty , or just put 2 new ones in anyway

Hi Audio Al
Took fuses out, put a test meter across fuses (the meter beeped) to check for continuity. Both were good :)

[Us-&-Them]

If it's been stored for a couple of decades in a damp attic I would be tempted to take the top off and take a shufty inside to see if any of the capacitors have leaked rather than spending a lot of time spraying and praying...

Taking the top off shouldn't be too hard and after that you are basically looking for the dustbin shaped components and checking to see whether any are bulged or cracked and also look out for any mess on the board where they are seated in the event that they have leaked - if so, all is not automatically lost and it might be possible to replace them and get it singing again but best wait until someone who knows there stuff can take a look ;)


Hi Mikmas

Yes took lid off when first found and did look for "nasties" and bulging caps etc - all good !! But, I had an hour at dinnertime today and I think I've found the problem. I left the amp overnight after giving all orifices, pots, switches and bits and bobs that that were accessible a liberal amount of switch cleaner; I came to it today and tried it out and there was nothing but, when I turned the volume switch I suddenly got a small faint sound from the problematic channel !!!! So, attacked it with some cleaner through the very small holes in the side of the pot and............YES!!!!!!!! Rock N Roll blasted out through that speaker!!!!!! The Cult - New York City went on straight away - then..........aaaaahhhhhh sound went again :(

I messed with the CD and Tape 1 buttons and it came back so, it looks like a combination of 2 dirty connections on the signal path and the volume pot. I may take the board out now and see if I can get a better access to the 2 switches to spray cleaner into them as I think what I have done so far with those two items is hit and miss as there are no real holes to squirt cleaner into them.

Thanks for everybody's contributions to my thread asking for help :) I will let you all know the full result when stripped and cleaned thoroughly. Anyone any ideas on how to get switch cleaner into these switches effectively rather than strip all amp down - suggestions gratefully accepted !!

[Barry]

I assume your amp is this:

http://www.hifiengine.com/images/model_thumbs/arcam_delta_60_inside.jpg

If so, you will have to clean the switches by using an aerosol switch cleaner fitted with a fine 'drinking straw' tube to direct the spray between the shaft and the body of the switch. Treat each switch in turn and press and depress the switch several times as you spray, so as to allow the cleaner to get in between the (multiple) switch contacts. You may need to have to have several goes before the switches are properly and completely clean.

Good luck.

[Us-&-Them]

I assume your amp is this:

http://www.hifiengine.com/images/model_thumbs/arcam_delta_60_inside.jpg

If so, you will have to clean the switches by using an aerosol switch cleaner fitted with a fine 'drinking straw' tube to direct the spray between the shaft and the body of the switch. Treat each switch in turn and press and depress the switch several times as you spray, so as to allow the cleaner to get in between the (multiple) switch contacts. You may need to have to have several goes before the switches are properly and completely clean.

Good luck.

Yes, you are correct, that is my amp. I'll have to see if the straw off my WD40 Oil will fit the servisol can nozzle. Fingers crossed ;) Lets see if that can cure it all once and for all :eyebrows:
Cheers!!!

[EricS]

Hi Loz,

I've been repairing various pieces of audio equipment around the house for years now and it seem that the problem you face is relatively straight forward. My first guess is that you have either dirty/tarnished/oxidized electrical contacts somewhere or that you have bad caps somewhere in the power supply or the audio circuitry. Cleaning is by far the easier task to do. Replacing caps requires a different skill set, but is still pretty simple to do. I have done enough of this that I've compiled a bit of a step-by-step photo-documented process for others to follow on my web page.

Have a look and see if there is anything that you can use here: http://www.facstaff.bucknell.edu/esantane/movies/DIYRepairs.html

That unit looks like it has lots of buttons that lead to mechanical switches. The unit needs to be opened and each switch needs to be cleaned with a squirt of cleaner, then operate the switch numerous times, followed by a blast of compressed air to get rid of the residue. Then let it dry for a day or two before powering it back up.

Eric

[Us-&-Them]

Hi Loz,

I've been repairing various pieces of audio equipment around the house for years now and it seem that the problem you face is relatively straight forward. My first guess is that you have either dirty/tarnished/oxidized electrical contacts somewhere or that you have bad caps somewhere in the power supply or the audio circuitry. Cleaning is by far the easier task to do. Replacing caps requires a different skill set, but is still pretty simple to do. I have done enough of this that I've compiled a bit of a step-by-step photo-documented process for others to follow on my web page.

Have a look and see if there is anything that you can use here: http://www.facstaff.bucknell.edu/esantane/movies/DIYRepairs.html

That unit looks like it has lots of buttons that lead to mechanical switches. The unit needs to be opened and each switch needs to be cleaned with a squirt of cleaner, then operate the switch numerous times, followed by a blast of compressed air to get rid of the residue. Then let it dry for a day or two before powering it back up.

Eric

Hi Eric

I thought I'd cured it but, I haven't :( It seems that you have to let it "warm up" for 10 - 20mins and it then seems to work on both channels ????? I did some research and it appears that this is a common issue on these and the other people who've had this issue have changed the volume pot for a "Blue" something spare part and it cures it. I agree with you about dirty contacts - I still think there are some dirty contacts along the signal path. I did give them a good dunking of cleaner but it seems to have affected the operation of the switches now - they've gone sticky and do not spring out properly like they should when another switch is pressed. I have to give them a good flick with my nail and then it comes out. I have a feeling the switch cleaner has damaged a bit of the plastic inside (servisol can affect some plastics). I will have a look at your DIY repairs link tomorrow and thank you for your reply :)

[EricS]

Loz,

I am unaware of the specifics of servisol though I am aware that some solvents will dissolve plastic. I hope this is not the case for you. Another thing to explore if your switches are not functioning correctly is perhaps they need a little lubrication after being cleaned. Sometimes, there is a grease on the mechanism to help it work. The spray solvent likely removed some of the grease as well so now the mechanism is getting stuck. A light weight oil, applied sparingly in the right spot might solve your problem. You may need to open the switch itself in order to do this - which may or may not be easy depending on the configuration of your board.

Needing to "warm up" may also be a sign of old caps that begin to behave more properly only after a voltage is applied for some time. This can be frustrating problem, but if you take your time and work methodically, I believe you can restore this nice piece of equipment to its original state.

[mikmas]

I did some research and it appears that this is a common issue on these and the other people who've had this issue have changed the volume pot for a "Blue" something spare part and it cures it.

The 'Blue' pot will be an Alps Blue which is a popular quality brand for replacements and can be found quite easily on line. The Arcam uses a 'dual gang' model to allow for balance adjustment - going by this picture I found it looks like it's part RV201 - you should be able to get the value form the schematics you have. Replacing it is reasonably easy if you have average soldering skills but if not I think Firebottle offered his help earlier in the thread ;) Useful that they've printed instructions for accessing the print board actually on it ....

http://img04.taobaocdn.com/imgextra/i4/387028422/TB2cJBtapXXXXaPXpXXXXXXXXXX_!!387028422.jpg

[Firebottle]

The pot is a 10K log, not the best quality as it's a bit small.

[EricS]

Thanks, Mike! Now we are getting somewhere. I have marked up this image with the places that first grab my interest as places where things tend to go wrong.

15457

Top left of image: this is a push button switch of some sort that needs to be cleaned (electronics spray cleaner + compressed air)
Same for the bank of switches in the bottom left - sounds like these have already received some attention.
Bottom right corner - this looks like a power switch, but could always stand to be cleaned
Potentiometer in bottom right to the left of the power switch - this is your volume control and DEFINITELY needs to be cleaned. Same drill: spray cleaner, rotate a few times, followed by compressed air. Use the little hole on the top for your work.

Next up is a closer look at both ends of the grey ribbon cable. If the ends are soldered to the board, then just leave this alone. If, however, there is some sort of detachable pin-based connector, this also needs to be cleaned. Gently remove the cable, one end at a time, spray, scrub with a brush (old toothbrush works great), compressed air, then reassemble.

This same treatment is necessary for the cable connector directly adjacent to the power transformer. Not sure what this is connected to on the other end, but clean it anyhow.

Next up are the two small trim pots on the circuit board - these are blue with a white screwdriver slot in the top. These are a bit more complex, though. They could use a spray clean (provided there is an opening) and they need to be operated (twist with screwdriver), BUT ONLY IF YOU CAN PUT THEM BACK EXACTLY WHERE THEY CAME FROM. This will typically mean that you need a service manual for this amp. These adjust something important and likely need to be set with precision - usually by making a voltage measurement somewhere else on the board as you rotate them with a small screwdriver. If you don't know what they adjust or how to tell if you've returned them to the correct setting by knowing where to measure and what measurement you are looking for, THEN DONT TOUCH THEM! Maybe just a squirt of cleaner and some compressed air down into the seams of the housing.

This is all of the easy stuff to try first. If cleaning all of these points does not improve the situation, then it is time to break out the soldering iron.

Start with the four big caps where the power supply enters the PCB. These caps take the greatest amount of "abuse" and will need to be replaced, no matter what they look like or measure like. Just do these four and give the amp a try again.

If things still don't improve, then replace ALL of the electrolytic caps on the board. I see about 22 more with a quick count - though I might have missed one or two. It is important to be methodical here. Take pictures, make lists, use the numbers on the board that correspond to each one, record its voltage, uF capacity, and polarity orientation. Then replace them, one by one so you don't make any mistakes.

This can all be done relatively easily, but will require some time, careful attention, and some patience. I am confident you can make this amp sing again!

[Us-&-Them]

OK guys, thanks very much for more replies and all info contained in them :) The volume pot shown in the large photo from "mikmas" is different to the one that is fitted to mine. I'm just waiting for my camera battery to charge up and I'll take a pic and post it up on here for you guys to look at. All noted on the "Alps Blue" (I've never heard of these - if anyone knows where to get em or similar, please let me know) replacement volume pot - I need to be sure of which one; I guess a better understanding of which one will be had when I upload a pic of my present one. My volume control has separate controls for left and right channel (although mounted on the same pot spindle).

I should be able to get some capacitors but I need to know the orientation of the + and - on the board (is there a way to tell). I know when you buy a capacitor, one leg is longer than the other and it denotes either the pos or the neg (dont know which) and sometimes + or - is marked on the capacitor itself (the can type) but there are also those little brown capacitors which I wouldnt have a clue about :(

Am I also correct that there are better quality capacitors (i.e. cheaper brands and also dearer brands with better tolerences) ?? If there are, it might be better to buy better quality ?? Let me know please guys :)

Cheers !! Pics below of board and vol pot :)

1545815459

[mikmas]

Useful pix Loz...

- the casing on the volume pot on yours looks to be smaller than the widely available Alps pots kicking about but the important part is the pin distances on the PCB and the dual shaft feature (aka 'dual concentric'). I did a few searches and couldn't find many 10k log dual concentric that are suitable for PCB mounting at all but I'm sure someone here will have a better idea for sources. You may need to get some more info and measurements about the pin spacing, shaft length and relevant diameters to help things along.

As for the capacitors, I'm also not a lot of help being not very ambitious and usually opting for relatively cheap but reliable Panasonic equivalents. Once you know the values there are plenty of sources ranging from cheap and cheerful to the exotic and (very) expensive. As far as getting a handle on how to find values and pos/neg orientation of electrolytic capacitors goes, a simple Wikipedia search will get you plenty of easily digestible info to help you out ... and Eric's web pages provide a very informative and user friendly guide too :)

[EricS]

Loz, all of the questions you have asked are answered in the web link I provided - check the section marked "Solution #2a. Old/Dead Electrolytic Capacitors." For the power supply (the big caps I circled), there is little value to spending more money on tighter tolerance or better quality caps. The smaller caps on the left side of the board appear to be tied to the output selectors, and thus, I presume the audio signal is passing through these caps - so you might wish to use something "nicer" here. Many people think pretty highly of "ELNA Silmic II" electrolytic caps for use in the audio signal path.