cable dressing the dreaded mission 774 tonearm

[karma67]

Ok so today's mission (pardon the pun) is dressing my tonearm,ive never done it properly since installing it,im sure i can improve the masking tape approach i used.
im armed with a bag of p-clips so all input is welcome from those that have done this before.
before and after pics to follow.

[karma67]

here's what it looks like at the moment,yeah awful right?

http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj548/jamiecreig123/20150621_111256_zpsbshtxfgn.jpg

[DSJR]

The only severe issue you're going to have is if the 774 has the dreaded shotgun exit cables (about as stiff as a shotgun too :()

If you have the early separate cables, which were flexible and just 'joined' to the arm base by their twin conductors (outer shield connected at the phono plugs), then you'll be fine, the AR deck should bounce pretty well as long as the cables aren't 'dictating' to the suspension what it should do.

If you have the later thick exit cables, I'd respectfully suggest ditching them. In fact, the originals are thirty five years old now too, so maybe better to replace them as well if you can. You REALLY don't need boutique cables here (although some won't be happy until they do use them) and the Van Damme Pro-Patch mic cables are PERFECT for this task and I believe Johnnie at Audio Origami still uses them. I have one of his made up Mini-DIN-to-phono exit cables and using it with a suitable socketed Rega R200 arm, I could easily hear cartridge differences, MM and MC. If you're good at soldering and have some suitable heat-shrink to do a tidy job, it shouldn't be difficult. If you are nervous, the cable's socket is easily removed from the arm's base plate and I'm sure Johnnie or someone here would re-wire it for you.

By the way, the tonearm cables take a 'natural' curve from tube to socket, so it's nigh on impossible to get this bit wrong I remember.

Once you have the arm sorted, assuming it needs it in the first place, PLEASE may I suggest you look carefully at the AR's main bearing. Early decks of this model, as well as the previous XB77 model, had too much slop/rock in the main bearing (remove top platter, clamp the chassis up, place palm gently on the inner platter and see if you can feel it 'rock'). If so, this will affect the sonics more than anything else and there may be a cure if you trawl the net regarding US based AR decks. The UK issue AR Legend which came later, had a completely different main bearing housing and this was excellent, lifting the sonics to the upper end of vinyl replay IMO. The 774 arm is potentially so good, it needs this to be sorted I think.

[karma67]

thats a great reply,although i wish you hadn't mentioned the play in the bearing as ive just checked mine and noticed some :( its much worse with no oil on the shaft. im using general purpose oil like 3in1,would a thicker oil help do you think?
thanks
worried from brighton! lol

[DSJR]

Ah, OK :) You have the original twin exit leads. BRILLIANT.

Separate the cables - don't tie them together... Use a 13A plug-top style of clamp with small self tapping screws a la Thorens TD160 and attach this to the lower part of the back edge of the plinth. Dress the cables by hand first, so you get a 'feel' for the natural place for the clamp to go. You could also use a P-clip Linn style and this may be better possibly.

Hope this helps a bit...

[DSJR]

thats a great reply,although i wish you hadn't mentioned the play in the bearing as ive just checked mine and noticed some :( its much worse with no oil on the shaft. im using general purpose oil like 3in1,would a thicker oil help do you think?
thanks
worried from brighton! lol

Universal EP80 will definitely help for now, as it does with Thorens 160mk1's and 125mk2's. I think the stuff available in the UK is 'clean' enough with no nasty additives to affect sintered sleeves of fitted.

Maybe some inspiration here?

http://vinylnirvana.com/ar-models/

[karma67]

thanks david ,yes ive checked out their site before. i'll give send him an email.
in the meantime im off to halfords!
shame if it is buggered as i love this turntable :(

[walpurgis]

I've always used EP80 or EP 90 with a drop of STP, very thick silicone oil. Never had problems on any TT.

[karma67]

is that the stuff you sent me geoff by any chance? save me a trip to halfords

[Reffc]

Universal EP80 will definitely help for now, as it does with Thorens 160mk1's and 125mk2's. I think the stuff available in the UK is 'clean' enough with no nasty additives to affect sintered sleeves of fitted.

Maybe some inspiration here?

http://vinylnirvana.com/ar-models/

I most definitely would NOT use EP80 on sintered bearings. Many EP oils contain sulphur based additives and are corrosive to yellow metals like bronze. Whilst modern gear oils used buffered sulphur additives, they will still damage the bearing, especially where a harder metal like steel is in contact with the softer bronze bearing surface.


If you want to improve pitch stability and decrease noise induced by bearing wear/salck in the spindle then use an air compressor oil, which like many light machine oils, contains no additives which will harm yellow metals.

The thicker compressor oil would be an Iso100 (SAE30).

I would advise removing the spindle, cleaning the bearing well out and cleaning the spindle and using either light machine oil (like sewing machine oil) or one of the air compressor oils, but the use of engine oils or gearbox oils is not recommended for turntable bearings.

[walpurgis]

is that the stuff you sent me geoff by any chance? save me a trip to halfords

Yup! :)

It'll take up any slack, unless the bearing is really bad. Clean the bearing out and use the STP with only th tiniest drop of ordinary oil added. Say about eight to one mix. See how it goes. If that's a bit too viscous add another drop of oil. Should be OK though.

[walpurgis]

I've heard the comment about EP80/90 with sintered bearings before, not seen any research on it though. Should be OK on the AR though, which has a bronze bearing I believe. Funnily enough I've only had two TTs which I believe had sintered bearing bushes. An original Systemdek and a VPI. Both were knackered, possibly for this reason. I sold the Systemdek and bought a new bearing for the VPI (cost me £100). Next time I'll just turn up some phosphor bronze bushes on the lathe and press those in instead if the shaft is OK.

[karma67]

not sure whats done the trick here but after properly securing the 2 tonearm cables,fresh ep80 oil and a tweak to the springs to get the bounce right shes sounding rather good. thanks for the tips/help. :)

[karma67]

better still with Geoff super formula! :)

[DSJR]

Re oils. There was some discussion on this in the old Zero Gain/Audiosmile forum. The chap there was obsessive and did admit that modern hypoid oils were purer I believe. Dual, Thorens and non 301/401 Garrards are fine with the stuff over decades and no extra wear has been evident that I can see. The point here was that there is too much slop in the AR bearing and this is where the STP etc formula may well be better.

By the way, the Systemdek I and III I knew well (with the 'Archimedes Spiral' cut into the spindle) both used EP80, the bearing fitting quite solidly when fully in situ, so if they had sintered bearings, I know the designer would have been aware of any issues.