View Full Version : system sounds bad - what to do?
At my wits end with this. I've hardly listened to the damn thing since I came back from holiday in February. Thing is, nothing has been changed in the system and a part from a lack of bass weight (understandable given I am using IB speakers in free space in a large room) it used to sound really good.
I first started noticing it back in December and figured it was the CD player on the way out so swapped it out but I am sure things have still got steadily worse. Some recordings show it up more than others. I used to have a really sweet and open sound, now it is a little bit rough, even verging on shouty and tinny-sounding (like a poor transistor radio).
As I say no components have changed so I am at a loss. If I am to rule out the sources that leaves the power amp and speakers as posible culprits. Is it possible that one or the other has degraded somehow?
I wouldn't have said the amp because it is only a little over 2 years old but when Alan came round with his OTL power amp I thought that the sound was very good and swapping back to my amp it was noticeably not as good.
Or could it be the speakers? They are 40 odd years old but for the first 12 months I had them the sound was excellent. Could the crossovers have deteriorated in that time? They have had a lot of use with a powerful amp at fairly high levels.
I've tried swapping in the other speakers I own (Studio Spares Classic monitors, JBL Control One, KEF Calindas) but they are so different from a 4-way 6 driver infinite baffle that it isimpossible to tell anyhting from this.
All cables are the same as I've always used.
Any suggestions welcome
Ali Tait
16-04-2015, 12:35
Dismantle the whole system and clean all connections.
I think you need to be very systematic here Martin.
Does your system sound poor regardless of the source used?
You say your system sounded better when Alan's amplifier was used. Was the preamp changed when using Alan's amp?
Do none of your substitute speakers sound any better? They may sound different to your current speakers.
When you were away on holiday, was the heating left on (at a lower than normal setting)?
Hi Barry
Yes, system not as good as it was with both LP and CD
Same pre-amp (NVA passive P90SA) was used with both power amps. Since it is a passive I'm discounting that as a source of the problem.
Substitute speakers are a)not as good as the Akais and B) totally different in presentation
I dontl have any heating apart from a little electric radiator. That was off while I was on hols but the problem started before that, before Xmas, actually.
Amp may be the culprit then. also the fact youve been away from it for a while might have changed your opinion on its sound.
One other thing might be that the 2 long distance flights may have altered your hearing due to pressurisation .... maybe you need to go listen to others systems and see if you find any you used to think smashing and are still that way.
Well do what Ali suggests; remove all the connecting leads, clean the contacts and reconnect. That ought to help a little.
I'll clean the contacts. Worth a go.
Not sure about the hearing thing, as I said it wasn't sounding so good before I went away.
I have other power amps I could substitute in. Might try that. No-one think it might be the xovers in the speakers? I don't want it to be since that will be the most hassle to sort.
Ali Tait
16-04-2015, 13:26
I have had similar in the past, cleaning all the connections sorted it.
Stratmangler
16-04-2015, 14:52
Do things sound any better when you use the preamp section of the XTZ (ie use the amp as an integrated)?
Do things sound any better when you use the preamp section of the XTZ (ie use the amp as an integrated)?
Good question, not done that in a long, long time since the NVA is a lot better.
Suppose I could try that but not sure what it will prove?
Stratmangler
16-04-2015, 15:01
Using the amp as it was designed to be run will have appropriate gain structure.
And it should be quick and easy to try.
The thing is, if it is a gain-structure issue would that not manifest itself immediately? How could it be great for months and then deteriorate?
Audio Advent
16-04-2015, 16:27
Maybe your neighbours have started using some equipment like a network over powerlines thing and it's effecting your mains but being away from the system has made you immediately notice it.
Stratmangler
16-04-2015, 16:30
Well the NVA is completely passive and bufferless - all is can do is subract from the signal.
On top of that you could have a dirty switch contact somewhere in the NVA, and that can have some strange effects.
I've probably spent more time typing this reply than it would take you to rig the amp back up as an integrated ...
walpurgis
16-04-2015, 16:43
I recall you mentioning that you were not happy with the sound a while back Martin. It's possible Sam is on the right track and the mains have got 'dirty' as it were. Can you borrow a conditioner?
The thing is, if it is a gain-structure issue would that not manifest itself immediately? How could it be great for months and then deteriorate?
I have had a similar situation with mine Martin and am trying to identify what was the last time it sounded really good.
My conclusion is that I have not used my system that much just recently and my house has not been heated to the same degree which as I have found particularly with valve amps has a negative effect on sound quality. This also applies to my speakers and cartridge.
Tomorrow however I intend to have along session using my system and will heat the room if necessary. I will let you know what the results are!
Like you I know when my system is really performing and so any drop in SQ is very noticeable.
Are you able to check capacitors? - esp in the crossovers. They are known to clap out eventually.
Thanks for your replies, folks.
Firstly I don't think the mains is the problem. I have had a balanced mains unit in the system quite recently and that did not noticably improve SQ although it did sound 'different'. Also sound through the TV is good, I was thinking just the other night how much better it sounds than the main system, albeit on a smaller scale. Mains would affect that too, right?
With the speakers being old, rare and consequently irreplacable I am loath to get the backs off and start messing about. If it does come to that I will have to take them down to Paul at RFC and get him to do a proper job on them.
However I have now been advised that it may well be an issue with the amplifier so I will be exploring that avenue tomorrow when I have a free day and can get a good run at it.
I think that's a sensible first port of call Martin, having the amp checked out. The only common thing here seems to be the amp (ie change it and things improve). As Ali and others have said, it's worth cleaning all connections anyway. A little meths on a cloth or switch cleaning solution. RE crossovers...they don't tend to go overnight, but drift with time as electrolytics dry up. It's a gradual thing so unlikely to be those. Older voice-coils usually dont take kindly to over-amplification and were usually modestly rated to protect the winding insulation fro melting with heat (power). Again, if it were a voice coil issue, it would be apparent that you have one or more drivers out open circuit (easy to check with a multimeter so may be worth checking the DCR of your drivers). With speakers of that age, it is likely that where electrolytics are concerned, they might benefit from an inexpensive refresh, as testing them involves removing them anyway. It seems for now, the amp is the centre of attention though.
Ammonite Audio
17-04-2015, 11:02
Thanks for your replies, folks.
Firstly I don't think the mains is the problem. I have had a balanced mains unit in the system quite recently and that did not noticably improve SQ although it did sound 'different'. Also sound through the TV is good, I was thinking just the other night how much better it sounds than the main system, albeit on a smaller scale. Mains would affect that too, right?
With the speakers being old, rare and consequently irreplacable I am loath to get the backs off and start messing about. If it does come to that I will have to take them down to Paul at RFC and get him to do a proper job on them.
However I have now been advised that it may well be an issue with the amplifier so I will be exploring that avenue tomorrow when I have a free day and can get a good run at it.
Probably not to the same extent - the TV will have a switching PSU inside that possibly copes better with crap mains.
I had a similar problem with the system 'going off' which I initially put down to variations in my own mood etc; however in the end it turned out to be a fault in the PS Audio P5 Power Plant. So, it was the mains after all.
Paul, Hugo thanks for your replies. Someone who had the same amp as me has experienced the same problem and I don't believe in coincidence ;). No big deal since I bought the amp to drive my previous speakers: the Akai I use now are a much easier load and much more sensitive so I can use pretty much any amp with no power/current issues like I used to have.
I had a similar problem with the system 'going off' which I initially put down to variations in my own mood etc
I used to be terrible for that, always blaming my imagination or mood if I felt something wasnt right. In every case it always turned out in the end that something really wasn't right so I trust my instincts a lot more now and no longer put these things down to mood or imagination.
Okay took the XTZ out and put in a Linn LK100 which is a quarter the size and about half the weight. It's the little black box on the bottom with the green LED:
http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac233/Macca_photos_2009/001_1.jpg (http://s903.photobucket.com/user/Macca_photos_2009/media/001_1.jpg.html)
The Linn hasn't been used in a couple of years so I let it warm up for half an hour before sticking some music on. Not listened seriously yet but does seem to be better than it was. Apparantly the problem with the XTZ is dry joints around the output stage. It's only two years old so not very happy about that.
dantheman91
18-04-2015, 17:29
Dry joints at 2 years old :eek: never heard of that before. Still its about the pleasure you get from music and you have plenty of stand in gear it seems :) The LK100 is a little gem apparently never heard one but could be true. Anyway least your on the road to actually being able to listen to music :cool:
southall-1998
18-04-2015, 17:31
Tut-Tut!!
S.
I've got a dual mono Harman Kardon I can try too. :) Yeah the Linn is a tidy little power amp despite what a lot of folk say. Seems to mate up with the NVA passive okay as well. All sounding quite good now after an hour or two; think I will have a proper session after tea. Now I can get back to my subwoofer matching. I have a cunning plan for that....
Audio Advent
18-04-2015, 20:35
What?
I took it to be tut tut for dry joints after just 2 years!
Still, I hate to bring this up, but did you oil them? No? Oh dear...
Should point out this is a possible suggested cause. Not had it checked out myself yet. But the issue I had was this amp not something else.
Stratmangler
19-04-2015, 21:24
Apparantly the problem with the XTZ is dry joints around the output stage. It's only two years old so not very happy about that.
That's the cause of premature failures with quite a lot of equipment in recent times, and it's due largely to the use of lead free solder.
You can still buy leaded solder, so it might be an idea to "wet" all the solder joints on the PCBs.
Makes sense. I'll get someone who knows what they are doing to fix it. In the meantime I might use it as an excuse to buy a new power amp... :)
southall-1998
19-04-2015, 22:04
Makes sense. I'll get someone who knows what they are doing to fix it. In the meantime I might use it as an excuse to buy a new power amp... :)
Have you considered in getting an NVA power amp?
S.
That is one option under consideration. It would be a guaranteed match for my passive pre. I think the Linn stop gap lacks a bit of sensitivity, although it sounds pretty good.
walpurgis
19-04-2015, 22:22
Something with BIG transformers and a bank of KT88s might drive the Akai's along nicely. :)
T his will drive them along nicely and ending soon...they are very good amps
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121621231965?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
southall-1998
19-04-2015, 22:25
That is one option under consideration. It would be a guaranteed match for my passive pre. I think the Linn stop gap lacks a bit of sensitivity, although it sounds pretty good.
Well, I'm sure you can't go wrong with the A40 MK2 Mono's!
Money back if no like!!
S.
Alan Firebottles 25w OTL valve amp will be the benchmark to beat. With that in it really did sound like a mega money system. But valves? Too much faff, I have enough trouble with solid bloody state. And I have valves in my phono stage so concession made there.
It will have to be a good match with my passive pre since that is staying. Monoblocks are out as not enough plug sockets and I don't fancy wiring the leads together.
walpurgis
19-04-2015, 22:47
Alan Firebottles 25w OTL valve amp will be the benchmark to beat. With that in it really did sound like a mega money system. But valves? Too much faff, I have enough trouble with solid bloody state. And I have valves in my phono stage so concession made there.
It will have to be a good match with my passive pre since that is staying. Monoblocks are out as not enough plug sockets and I don't fancy wiring the leads together.
What faff? I've never had to mess about with any of the valve amps I've owned and that includes very old jobs.
Well, I'm sure you can't go wrong with the A40 MK2 Mono's!
Money back if no like!!
S.
No argument from me there, mine have settled in quite nicely.
What faff? I've never had to mess about with any of the valve amps I've owned and that includes very old jobs.
They do wear out and you have to replace them. Cost and hassle. And good valve power amps are not cheap. I've heard some diabolical cheap efforts ruin otherwise good systems.
I cleaned and deoxited the internal connections on my speakers to very noticable effect today....just a suggestion!
I cleaned and deoxited the internal connections on my speakers to very noticable effect today....just a suggestion!
Hi Nial,
This is something I must do! - My drive units are all internally connected with spade connectors with 29 years of oxidation on them!
I wonder how much better they would sound after I cleaned them:scratch:
Components that fail over time are usually electrolytic caps and transistors. Both of which are found in the amp. 2 years is rather premature for either to fail, but a faulty one may have taken this long to show up? The electrolytic caps are rarely used in speaker crossovers, so I really doubt your speakers are failing. Most old speakers sound better with age! Unless of course the paper is rotting. And you would notice that! It does seem that all fingers point to the amp. If you want to stay solid state, get something with more watts, it always sounds more impressive off the bat! You can never have too many watts! I've got 1025 per channel driving my big Legacy's! And I swear by my power filter/suppressor, no substitute for clean unwavering power, that is where good sound begins! Best of luck with it.
Six hour listening session yesterday evening, you don't do that if things sound bad so I am pretty confident now that the XTZ amp is at fault somehow. I've never experienced and amp going 'off' in sound like this before in almost thirty years and many, many amplifiers. Dropping a channel or reusing to work at all - yes - but continuing to work but sounding nasty? New one on me.
Russell - the XTZ is 110 watts a side 8 ohm load so not exactly low powered. Speakers are an easy load and 96dB efficient so it is overkill even in a large room. The Linn I am now using is only 50 watts, it is not affecting dynamics or SPL at all. Although I agree in principle more power is better since there is nothing worse than listening to a low powered amp struggle on peaks, I actually don't need any more with my current speakers.
Good to hear you have got the tunes back on and sounding fine again Martin.:)
Thanks Grant, it certainly does sound good and sweet once more. I'm just glad it wasn't a problem with the speakers.
Beobloke
21-04-2015, 11:48
Hi Nial,
This is something I must do! - My drive units are all internally connected with spade connectors with 29 years of oxidation on them!
I wonder how much better they would sound after I cleaned them:scratch:
They'd sound even better if you chopped the spade connectors (which are the work of Satan, IMHO) off and soldered them instead.
Thanks Grant, it certainly does sound good and sweet once more. I'm just glad it wasn't a problem with the speakers.
hell no! those babies are classics. not seen another set
Martin, you know my feelings about the LK100 when compared to an LK140, so really glad you seem to feel the XTC is the issue and not the Akais. The XTC offers so much for so little, but hope no component compromises have been made at the factory, as was done with late-model Quad 909's for at least a while.
As for amps, I know that OTL's can do magical things, but they are also a pain if allowed their heads, if my Croft OTL is anything to go by, sadly. There ARE good valve amps Martin, that don't eat their valves every year or do really silly things (I'm thinking recent Icon Audio models I've heard and enjoyed) and I've also become deeply interested in a couple of Pathos hybrid? amps I heard a few months back with a purity of sound rarely found in pure solid state amps. Regarding solid state, I still deeply respect the Quad 606, especially the 606mk2/707 onwards, a safe-as-houses solid design with no artificial 'edge' to it. You also know how deeply impressed I am with NVA as well and the basic simplicity of the designs keeps so much subtlety in the music (again, no 'edge' or 'grain' and no loss of 'grip' where necessary) in my recent long-term experiences. I'm also told that the circuit is self-aligning, so bias settings etc. aren't necessary.
P.S. Speaking of drifting amps (Naim aside as they're known for this), I once had the big ATC power amp for a few years. It wasn't used much and was NEVER driven hard (into AVI Positrons, MF Harrier Se's, Rega Alya's, Linn Keilidh's and WB ACT 1's), the case never getting past 'slightly warm.' I returned to actives for a while and sold the ATC power amp via a local dealer, but not before it had refused to start up due to over-drifting DC offsets after six months in storage...
Hi Dave
Thanks for your comments. Yes I know you are no fan of the LK100, very few people are. Compared to the XTZ (when it was working properly) it has slightly loose bass and is a little muddier in the mids. On the otehr hand it is 20 years old and works fine wheras the XTZ is only 2 years old and is currently a gigantic doorstop....
Still you live and learn.
If I do get a new power amp - and I'm not in any rush - it will more than likely be an NVA to get best possible match with the pre-amp. Valves are not under consideration. I don't have anything agaisnt them but I don't believe they can do anything that solid state can't.
Firebottle
21-04-2015, 15:31
I must bring the EL84 amp round to yours Martin, I'm sure it would sound fantastic with the Akai's.
We'll have to get something organised :)
Dauntless
22-04-2015, 12:02
XTZ now have a new distributor for the UK. They are Epic Home Cinema 07429 370015. Martin, you could get the amp checked. I heard of someone on another forum having trouble with this particular amp. I looked at this amp myself. I have to say the 50w class A put me off. The thing must run very hot indeed to achieve that level of class A [ and make your meter spin ] I have had trouble with class A myself due to the heat they generate. I had a Hi-Fi world Valve amp that cooked components. This XTZ amp doesn't seem to be fitted with any external heat sinks to radiate this heat. Myself, I cannot see why any amp should need any more than 10 watts of class A. If you get the XTZ repaired I would run the amp in class AB as it should run cooler.
Yes that would be great/
Hi Martin,
Alans EL84 is definitely an ear opener. Drove my Spendors very well and sounded great.
Ali Tait
22-04-2015, 12:35
XTZ now have a new distributor for the UK. They are Epic Home Cinema 07429 370015. Martin, you could get the amp checked. I heard of someone on another forum having trouble with this particular amp. I looked at this amp myself. I have to say the 50w class A put me off. The thing must run very hot indeed to achieve that level of class A [ and make your meter spin ] I have had trouble with class A myself due to the heat they generate. I had a Hi-Fi world Valve amp that cooked components. This XTZ amp doesn't seem to be fitted with any external heat sinks to radiate this heat. Myself, I cannot see why any amp should need any more than 10 watts of class A. If you get the XTZ repaired I would run the amp in class AB as it should run cooler.
There is no way that amp is outputting 50w in Class A, more like 10w at the most.
XTZ now have a new distributor for the UK. They are Epic Home Cinema 07429 370015. Martin, you could get the amp checked. I heard of someone on another forum having trouble with this particular amp. I looked at this amp myself. I have to say the 50w class A put me off. The thing must run very hot indeed to achieve that level of class A [ and make your meter spin ] I have had trouble with class A myself due to the heat they generate. I had a Hi-Fi world Valve amp that cooked components. This XTZ amp doesn't seem to be fitted with any external heat sinks to radiate this heat. Myself, I cannot see why any amp should need any more than 10 watts of class A. If you get the XTZ repaired I would run the amp in class AB as it should run cooler.
Hi Michael.
The XT does have no external fins but if you remove the lid which is covered in ventialtion slots on both top and sides you will find massive internal heatsinks making up about 70% of the total volume.
Also I have only once run the amp in class A, for maybe 3 hours. I was unable to hear any definite difference between class A and class AB so have always used AB mode. After 5 or 6 hours in AB at faiirly high volume the case gets only slightly warm. So I don't think that is the cause of the issue.
Personally I think there is a lot of bollocks talked about class A - there is a perception amongst the uninitiated that since it is 'A' it is automatically better, or of a higher quality than 'B' or 'C or 'D' - so manufaturers offer it. Second folk get hung up on watts so they don't want 10 watts of class A as that sounds like it might be a bit feeble. So you end up with 50 watts class A.
Personally, as with cars, I like to buy used hi-fi and let some other sucker take the depreciation. I got the XTZ new becasue I wanted an amp that was definately 'fresh' and it was a very reasonable price for the performance on offer. And indeed until I started having this issue I was extremely happy with it.
There is no way that amp is outputting 50w in Class A, more like 10w at the most.
Ali I understand your scepticism but according to the Hi-Fi World test results it actually outputs more than 50 watts whilst remaining in class A. I'll dig out the review if you want the specifics.
my a1000 put out 50 w in class a....it could get very hot unless you were using a lot of it...sounded fantastic though.
Ali Tait
22-04-2015, 12:49
Yes please, I admit to be surprised if that is the case. I understand it uses a sliding bias scheme?
The jungson power amp looks to be about the same size, that was shown to have about 6w in class A
I'll try and dig it out for you Ali. I never saw the review until after I bought the amp and I wasn't interested in the class A aspect anyway but have to admit it surprised me too.
Ali Tait
22-04-2015, 14:21
Cheers.
Dauntless
22-04-2015, 15:14
Hi Michael.
The XT does have no external fins but if you remove the lid which is covered in ventialtion slots on both top and sides you will find massive internal heatsinks making up about 70% of the total volume.
Also I have only once run the amp in class A, for maybe 3 hours. I was unable to hear any definite difference between class A and class AB so have always used AB mode. After 5 or 6 hours in AB at faiirly high volume the case gets only slightly warm. So I don't think that is the cause of the issue.
Personally I think there is a lot of bollocks talked about class A - there is a perception amongst the uninitiated that since it is 'A' it is automatically better, or of a higher quality than 'B' or 'C or 'D' - so manufaturers offer it. Second folk get hung up on watts so they don't want 10 watts of class A as that sounds like it might be a bit feeble. So you end up with 50 watts class A.
Personally, as with cars, I like to buy used hi-fi and let some other sucker take the depreciation. I got the XTZ new becasue I wanted an amp that was definately 'fresh' and it was a very reasonable price for the performance on offer. And indeed until I started having this issue I was extremely happy with it.
Martin, Understood! Have you any idea how far your amp is biased into class A when running in class AB mode?
apparently the xtz 100 has 62 w to play with. if left in auto mode it decides when to go a and when ab. certainly got a good write up so will be worth getting fettled
edit..there was a review on the wam about this amp by JamPal in 2010.
Martin, Understood! Have you any idea how far your amp is biased into class A when running in class AB mode?
No I don't. All I can say is that it was extremley good when working properly but based on this experience I could no longer recommend them. Especially when my 20+ year old Linn and 40+ year old Harmon Kardon are both still working - and sounding - absolutely fine.
337alant
23-04-2015, 05:55
Martin
You are quite welcome to borrow a NCC200 power amp from me if you wish I have a couple in the house I don't really use.
I travel to York on week ends so I could meet you somewhere if that suits
The amp in question is the first one of the NCC200 in this thread
http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showpost.php?p=2510973&postcount=172
Alan
Thanks Alan but York is a long, long way from me :)
337alant
23-04-2015, 09:18
OK Martin no problem
Alan
When I had a XTZ I ran it in class A all the time - and it was 100% reliable. I did notice a difference between A and AB mode - quite east to hear as you can switch from the remote. A was a definite improvement in my system - better separation and a more 'delicate' presentation, after maybe a half-hours warm up. It did get hot, though no more than my valves...
There are quite a few of these amps about and I've heard little in the way of complaint, so maybe yours was a bad batch or a one-off? Failures do happen. I'd get it looked at myself, as in my system it was without a doubt one of the best amps I've had for the money. Maybe contacting the new UK distributor and seeing what they have to say would be a good start - or email XTZ direct, apparently their customer service is reputed to be good. Gotta be worth a punt.
When I had a XTZ I ran it in class A all the time - and it was 100% reliable. I did notice a difference between A and AB mode - quite east to hear as you can switch from the remote. A was a definite improvement in my system - better separation and a more 'delicate' presentation, after maybe a half-hours warm up. It did get hot, though no more than my valves...
There are quite a few of these amps about and I've heard little in the way of complaint, so maybe yours was a bad batch or a one-off? Failures do happen. I'd get it looked at myself, as in my system it was without a doubt one of the best amps I've had for the money. Maybe contacting the new UK distributor and seeing what they have to say would be a good start - or email XTZ direct, apparently their customer service is reputed to be good. Gotta be worth a punt.
yeah, or just give it to me:D no, I'd deffo get it looked at Martin
Jason - My XTZ was used several hours a day pretty much every day for two years, I don't know what you useage was or how long you had it for? That is going to be a factor. As you say could be I got a duff one. It happens.
It has now been relegated to my 'things that need fixing' pile. One day I will post a picture of the pile so you can see the magnitude of the problem....
I had one too, great amp.
Personally I would stick it on an e-bay spares or repair sale.
For Ali:
Found the review, here is the measured performance comments:
'112 watts into 8 ohm and 196 into 4 ohms, in class AB or A'
2nd harmonic at 10Khz 0.07 in AB 0.02 in class A -produced mainly 2nd harmonic at all frequencies and output powers.
Damping factor 42
FR 6hz to 55 Hz
The Barbarian
25-04-2015, 14:44
I could not say i have ever had a bad sounding system! Maybe i have a knack at picking good gear either that or it's that i would not be seen dead with modern clobber :eyebrows:
I've had loads of bad sounding systems. :) in 25 years only had four properly good set ups. First three had components die that were no longer made and that I could not source another used one or replace with anything that sounded quite as great with the rest of the kit. so I ended up starting over again.
The Barbarian
25-04-2015, 15:01
Hahaaaaaaaaa im very carefull at choosing gear that does not use IC's or very obscure Transistors..
Something ive never understood is why people pay so much for a CD player that are generally unrepairable ten years or less down the line, even nutty is pouring in hundred upgrading these machines with fancy clocks etc..
playing my 30 quid pioneer dvd through a monarchy dip and dac and it sounds as good if not better than the uber expensive ones ive heard
I suppose if you spend a grand and it lasts 10 years that is only £100 a year to have what you want. When one dies you buy another. At least I do. Won't spend a grand though ;)
playing my 30 quid pioneer dvd through a monarchy dip and dac and it sounds as good if not better than the uber expensive ones ive heard
Monarchy not cheap though. At least not new.
Monarchy not cheap though. At least not new.
True! i got lucky although it still wasnt cheap. one of my best buys tbh. as is this wee power amp..got a lovely sound to it
The Barbarian
25-04-2015, 15:19
I suppose if you spend a grand and it lasts 10 years that is only £100 a year to have what you want. When one dies you buy another. At least I do. Won't spend a grand though ;)
But what about all the Synergy B.S. surely that synergy {That they also pumped daft money into the system getting} is lost when your CDP goes up to baby jesus?
southall-1998
25-04-2015, 15:21
True! i got lucky although it still wasnt cheap. one of my best buys tbh. as is this wee power amp..got a lovely sound to it
I've heard Geoff's Monarchy power amp a good number of times. It sounds similar to Krell amps, but in a smaller scale kind of way.
Good amps!
S.
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