Linn or Alphason tonearms on Technics Sl1210 question

[Ants]

Hi,

Has anyone fitted a Alphason tonearm (spindle-pivot distance 211mm) to a Technics SL1210?
I'd appreciate hearing about your experiences and how things went with it - is it a worthwhile upgrade over standard tonearm?

Appreciate your input. :)

Thanks,

Ants

[6L6]

Which arms, specifically? Fitting a Basik on the Techie would be an enormous step backwards... An Ittok or Akito might be an interesting experience...

[Ants]

I have a Alphason HR100S (Linn geometry, direct replacement)..... non MCS (MCS is silver wired) copper wired version, has DIN connector...... single piece titanium tonearm wand....I have another one (but its a MCS silver wired version) that works a treat on my Kenwood KD600.....so should be good on the Techie...
I also like the fact it will have a similar colour to the Mk5G tonearm I have now, and will be S shaped as well........hopefully will be better sonically albeit at the loss of the adjustability of the Techie arm.......

[Marco]

Hi Anthony,

I can comfortably say that an HR-100S would murder the tonearm on an SL-1210 (in my view, the Alphason is one of the best arms ever made). You're talking different leagues there! I also don't believe that anyone else has done that, so it would be interesting to see the results.

Therefore, simply obtain an armboard, fashioned with the correct pivot-to-spindle distance (the solid ebony ones Speedy Steve makes are superb), fit the arm, and enjoy what I'd expect to be some rather sexy sounds! :)

Marco.

[Ants]

Marco,
Thanks for your comments.....
I have been in contact with Steve.....I am just thinking about how to fix the tonearm...... Isonoe single piece CNC machined magnesium arm board (they don't do a linn one at present but I can find out) or Steve's Ebony arm board (they look beautiful, his fixation kits sounds very nice and easy) are my preferred options.
Can't decide whether to do rivnuts or not but leaning toward not putting them in as rivnuts are not so easily reversible & need a special tool to install once for a small number of rivnuts - although they would make swapping arms easier without going to the underside.
I plan to replace the rubber base of my Mk5G with a SL1200 mk2 large open aperture versioned rubber base where all of tonearm underside area is exposed - no need to cut the base, easier to drape the tonearm interconnect. I understand the fixing points and screws are the same as every SL1210/SL1200....... I think this version of the rubber base was used in the near mythical SL1210mk4 (with 78rpm!), and the Mk5G for a very short time.........

[Marco]

My advice would be definitely to go with an ebony armboard, as it produces a more 'relaxed' and musical sound than that obtained with a metal armboard, thus counteracting a tendency sometimes for the Technics to sound 'clinical' or sterile. Honestly, fitting a wooden armboard on a Techy is a no-brainer! :)

I'm sure that Steve will be able to make one to fit.

As for the rubber base, I haven't heard of that before, but I do believe that there are sonic gains to be had by improving the whole plinth in some way - exactly how I'm unsure of as yet. However, I favour a 'sandwich' effect, with a layer of Welsh slate between some form of hardwood, perhaps ebony or something more visually striking, overall making for quite a thick plinth.

That's a project for perhaps next year!

Marco.

[Ants]

Marco....

Yes, I agree - I have thought about this aspect. Balancing out the sonic tendencies is important - I have audio technica MC cartridges but the valves in my system ameliorate the brightness just enough (if i had solid state amplifier I might be less fortunate with the sound I'm getting now but its just a matter of balance). My nordost blue heaven Mk1 speaker cables ( 2 runs in 'shotgun' configuration to the Tannoys) are due for review but not for a while......

... a new plinth is a major project.....I think I'll not go there myself. However, the most efficient way to do this in this day and age of product scanners is to get it digitised, specified by CAD and then 3D printed or CNC machined from just about any , millable material with exact apertures, dimensions and even layers could be made to make the sandwich if its designed with CAD..... but I'd hate to think about the cost!

[JazzBones]

Hi,

Has anyone fitted a Alphason tonearm (spindle-pivot distance 211mm) to a Technics SL1210?
I'd appreciate hearing about your experiences and how things went with it - is it a worthwhile upgrade over standard tonearm?

Appreciate your input. :)

Thanks,

Ants

Lo' Anthony, I have been using an AO tweaked Linn Ekos on my mega tweaked SL1210Mk2 for about two years now, using either a Speedy Steve's ebony but now African blackwood armboard. The ebony board, to my ears, sounds a bit more relaxed but I could be wrong about this, either way wood is better than metal. When Steve made my arm board for me I sent him an old Linn LP12 armboard for geometry purposes and told him to keep it so he should have no probs in making one up for you. I listen to alot of acoustic instrument based music such as classical/Spanish guitar, cello, double base plus brass instruments as I am acquainted with how these instruments sound live and in front of me. The Ekos, as per mine, can have a precise and biting sound to it if not probably fettled with the right cartridge but it does tell whether a classical or jazz guitarist is using gut, nylon of wire metal strings for example. The precise lipping of a horn player, such as Chet Baker on trumpet, a hard or soft reed on a sax, I believe Paul Desmond of the Dave Brubeck quartet used a hard reed to get that beautiful floating sound that no other alto sax player can do, even the copyists. If you consider a Linn Ittok arm then the Mk2 has an arm rest which is not part of the main arm construction which means drilling a hole in the 1210 body to accommodate this particular tonearm, You're okay with a Mk3 Ittok.

I'm on the look out for an Alphonson 100S arm, for comparison. as this would be a simple drop in exchange of arm with only cartridge adjustment to be made. I believe the geometry for Linn and Alphonson 100S are identical as it was conceived as an alternative to the Ittok on a LP12 back in the 80s
As usual what one person prefers another is not happy with so its a question of actually trying it.

Many years ago I heard an Alphonson 100s plus Koetsu cartridge mounted on a Guy Sergeant three motor Voyd TT, it really did it for me and was one of the better music presentation/representation at a show from a turntable fronted system.

[Ants]

Ron,
Thanks for your helpful comments. Yes the Alphason HR100S has the same 211 spindle pivot distance and tonearm pillar diameter as the Linn. If you find one just check the ceramic bearings are ok - it should have no play of the tonearm in the foreword/ aft and rotation clockwise/ anticlockwise directions with gentle push/ pull/ rotation . Johnnie7 at Audio Origami fixed my one - it's perfect now. he's very helpful and provides a great service.
I picked up another one in eBay recently but they are not cheap now.....
What differences are there between Ebony and the African Blackwood armbases in SQ?
Was it easy to install?

Anthony

[RobbieGong]

Ron,
Thanks for your helpful comments. Yes the Alphason HR100S has the same 211 spindle pivot distance and tonearm pillar diameter as the Linn. If you find one just check the ceramic bearings are ok - it should have no play of the tonearm in the foreword/ aft and rotation clockwise/ anticlockwise directions with gentle push/ pull/ rotation . Johnnie7 at Audio Origami fixed my one - it's perfect now. he's very helpful and provides a great service.
I picked up another one in eBay recently but they are not cheap now.....
What differences are there between Ebony and the African Blackwood armbases in SQ?
Was it easy to install?

Anthony

The Ebony armboard that Speedy Steve here (Magna Audio) produces is a very lovely thing indeed both aesthetically and sonically - I'm awaiting a new one (my second) Steve's just done for me with less depth / dishing where the armbase attaches. I found I needed a bit more height for vta adjust after fitting the Mike New bearing base plate which lifts the platter by 6mm. The ebony armboard is the only one I'd ever use after having one before or the African Blackwood. The African Blackwood looks similar and is a harder wood, another thing of beauty (take a look at Steve's creations in the Trade section and other places here). The difference in how the harder wood translates sonically will likely be slight but is again sure to be 'natural' over say metal, brass or aluminium just like the ebony is. Install is a peace of the old proverbial, Steve provides all screws etc. If you need your armbase fitting on the armboard too just let him know so your arm and it's measurements can be considered for accuracy. :)