Cost effective wall mounted turntable systems?

[orbscure]

Morning all... I'd welcome any suggestions for cost effective wall mounting systems for my turntable... the only issue I can see with this method is that the wall of my listening room to which the mounting system would be fixed is plasterboard...

Cheers :)
Pete

[Stratmangler]

Is it a stud wall or is it dab and plaster?

If it's a stud wall then the likelihood is that it's a timber frame, and the spacing between the uprights is going to be fairly regular (ie 600mm centre to centre)
Which means that you could mount a board (plywood?) across the uprights to support the weight of a shelf and its load (ie the turntable).

If it's dab and plaster then it gets a bit more interesting :eyebrows:

[orbscure]

To be brutally honest Chris, I really haven't got a clue as to which type it is. All I know is that it forms part of an extension to the back of the property and other than a fresh covering of wall paper, the rest of the wall has remained unchanged since it was built in the mid-1980's. I currently have my turntable on a SoundStyle rack but as the flooring on which it sits is large MDF panels, even when walking on tip toe around it, this causes it to skip and jump...

[struth]

if you use the correct plasterboard fixi!gs it should be ok as long as your tt is not silly heavy. I have a yamaha soundbar on wall and its heavy . its been there securely for 8 years.

[myles]

if you use the correct plasterboard fixi!gs it should be ok as long as your tt is not silly heavy. I have a yamaha soundbar on wall and its heavy . its been there securely for 8 years.

The only problem being that the forces pulling the turntable down will be different to a soundbar; the weight of a turntable juts a lot further from the wall, the soundbar sits closer and its weight is spread along a longer area. Perhaps my science is skewed......

If I were running an LP12 and it jumped whenever I walked near to it, I'd be concerned too.

[struth]

yep it is a factor but you just need longer bars on wall to transfer the weight. principle is the same though. an lp12 should be ok weight wise. these screw in plaster wall sockets are pretty strong and as long as the board is in good shape itll be ok.

[Stratmangler]

To be brutally honest Chris, I really haven't got a clue as to which type it is.

Is it an internal or external wall?
Have you got knuckles? I frequently use mine to tap on walls to see whether of not I'm between stud uprights (alright, I do install cabling for a living). If you have sections where it sounds hollow and sections where it sounds more solid then it's likely to be a stud wall.

If it's the internal wall between the house and the extension the chances are it's solid, in which case you might just need to use rawlbolt fixings to fix a TT shelf up.

If you're not sure then get a builder in, or at least post some photos ... :eyebrows:

[myles]

yep it is a factor but you just need longer bars on wall to transfer the weight. principle is the same though. an lp12 should be ok weight wise. these screw in plaster wall sockets are pretty strong and as long as the board is in good shape itll be ok.

Choice of turntable mount is important then, the Rega style seems to have a small surface area for fixing on the wall and probably best avoided if the integrity of the wall is not obvious.

[struth]

The main disadvantage is aesthetics as the size of brackets can look crap in a living room unless made of premium materials thus making the excersise pointless. Vibrations will also still be an issue as the plaster wall is inherantly less rigid than a solid wall even if you get into the lathe. its just soft wood. much will depend on how well the boards and lathe have been secured. lots of fixing would make it very stable but many are not secured that well.

obviously if there is brick in the wall then it would be best to rawl right through to that.

[daytona600]

Project have some nice wall mounts for turntables
http://www.klangshop.at/images/product_images/info_images/wallmount2-plattenspieler.jpg

[orbscure]

Many thanks chaps.... its an outside extension wall and I'll have a tap to see what I can hear. I was considering one of these (http://www.hifiracks.co.uk/wall-mounts/7/podium-platform), which if I can locate one of the frame uprights, should work well enough, even into wood rather than brick...

[Stratmangler]

... its an outside extension wall and I'll have a tap to see what I can hear

It might be plastered straight over the brickwork/blockwork or it might be dab and board (I said dab and plaster earlier - I meant dab and board).
If it's the former you'll be fine just fixing straight the wall.
If it's the latter then it might be better to fix a plywood mounting board to the wall, and then mount the shelf.

With dab and board you're dependant on the structural integrity of the plasterboard for strength, which is why you mount a board attached in multiple places through the plasterboard and into the wall behind.

http://livesol.com/~stovefit/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/dotdab2.jpg

The link to the shelf doesn't work for me.
I did follow the web address and looked at the shelf you're thinking of - you need to make sure that it is very securely fixed, because there'll be tears if you don't!

[orbscure]

I'm 90% sure that its not brick Chris... I'll have to ask mum, I was in my early 20's when it was being built and didn't pay much attention. As for the rack, its a HiFi Racks podium, not the cheapest rack out there, but I like the design :)

[Stratmangler]

The one with the flexible young lady doing a handstand on it?
It will need to be very firmly attached, as all the fixing points are concentrated into a fairly small footprint. The smaller the footprint the greater the forces are to be considered.

[orbscure]

That's the one... gymnast not included :) The securing footprint does worry me too, especially as it will be wood into wood. At this point, if anybody has suggestions for cost-effective non-wall mounted methods of isolation, please feel free to fire away...

[paskinn]

A robust wall has to be best, and even a plaster wall, properly fixed, should be fine. If you really can't trust the wall, then the obvious answer is something like the Townsend seismic pods. But even three of those cost around £240. Theoretically, your sprung Linn might not be compatible with a sprung isolation base, but that's theory, and in practice it seems to work very well indeed.
For real cost saving, a thick wooden board on a slightly inflated tyre can be manageable, although levelling out the deck is then somewhat interesting. If you can get a decent wall shelf, that's best. Maybe call in a reliable handyman? Then leave something quite heavy on it for a day or two, to be sure......

[orbscure]

Many thanks for the reminder with regards the Townsend pods Peter, they've been offered up as a possible, albeit expensive solution in the past.

Having looked at the location again tonight, I may be able to move any prospective support to an actual brick wall. However, I'm then left with the task of having to run a lengthy (approx 4ft in a straight line) phono lead from my SUT to my amp. Does anybody know what is the longest phono run recommended?

[Floyddroid]

The best i have used is a One Decent wall shelf.
Project have some nice wall mounts for turntables
http://www.klangshop.at/images/product_images/info_images/wallmount2-plattenspieler.jpg

[The Barbarian]

Ive only just thrown one of these in the bin. But it was a good shelf

http://www.analogueseduction.net/custom-design/custom-design-wall-mounted-turntable-support.html

[REW]

I made my own wall rack using the slotted upright and shelf arm system you will find on eBay or in your local B&Q. I chose silver but other colours are available...

For shelves I used toughened glass shelves spare from an old floor standing rack though ply or custom cut glass or perspex would suffice.

The wall is dot and dab plasterboard on soft breeze block. Each supporting upright is held with two frame fixers into the breeze blocks, again from B&Q, about 120mm long and rock solid. This all looks easy on the eye and is pretty cheap as well as effective. If there's a clamour I will take a few pix.

[orbscure]

Many thanks for the additional feedback chaps... I've plumped for a Pro-Ject Wallmount IT rack, so I'll report back once its fitted and doing its job :)

...and please fire away with an image Ron, I'd love to see what you've put together :)

[REW]

Ok a few pix which are a little out of context without the whole room but construction is more obvious. Any number of shelves and heights are possible this way. As with all wall shelves cable management is important. No hum or Radio Mars evident at full volume with this arrangements which the purist might pale at:

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j38/REW27/DIY%20Turntable%20wall%20shelf%202014/DSC_0069_zps483038f9.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/REW27/media/DIY%20Turntable%20wall%20shelf%202014/DSC_0069_zps483038f9.jpg.html)

The uprights - shows the heads of the frame fixings. I have never had a duff one of these though plenty if I attach directly to plaster board with screw in fittings. CHECK THERE ARE NO MAINS CABLES OR CH PIPES IN THE VICINITY OF ANY DRILLING YOU DO:

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j38/REW27/DIY%20Turntable%20wall%20shelf%202014/DSC_0071_zps7d48fe2b.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/REW27/media/DIY%20Turntable%20wall%20shelf%202014/DSC_0071_zps7d48fe2b.jpg.html)

And again. You can see the edge of a DIY isolation platform for my Tecnodec, perspex and sorbothane hemispheres.:

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j38/REW27/DIY%20Turntable%20wall%20shelf%202014/DSC_0070_zps6f75222a.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/REW27/media/DIY%20Turntable%20wall%20shelf%202014/DSC_0070_zps6f75222a.jpg.html)

[orbscure]

Looks very nice indeed Ron... I'm planning to use the appropriately sized rawl intersets with my Pro-Ject rack as six of them installed using an interset fixing setting tool should be more than adequate to safely secure my 10kg/22lb tt :)