My System [Archive] - The Art of Sound Forum

Varun

31-07-2009, 17:06

That should do! The turntable plinth is reflecting foliage from outside the window. The rack was made to order to take the weight of 70Kg power amp and stands on spikes-but they are not in use. The iron/steel tubes are filled with NZ iron sand so very heavy. The platform for VPI is home made of 2 mdf boards stuck together and sit on five sorbothane hemispheres imported from USA. They are normally used in car shock absorbers and here meant to distribute and support the WT OF very heavy VPI.

http://i925.photobucket.com/albums/ad100/varun_k_singh/System.jpg

Varun

31-07-2009, 17:41

Spectral Morn

31-07-2009, 17:45

Thanks for patching the two files together. The scratches on the power amp L handle are my doing. Bringing it from my home with an internal garage to this property in Liverpool- proved too heavy for me. Can any one suggest a remedy?

Yes try a permanent black marker pen, and just touch up the edges that have lost their colour...

I have done that too;) I hate it when I bang, scratch or damage anything errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. :steam:

I don't think I could have lifted the Plinius. Nice system by the way thanks for posting the pictures.

Regards D S D L

Mike

31-07-2009, 18:22

Nice turntable... is that the TNT?

Varun

31-07-2009, 20:15

Correct Mike TNT HRV with 12.5 arm.

Also thanks Neil. In the past I had my some one else to help. Yes I was puffing and struggling.

Perhaps I can put this question to you Mike or Neil. I have just listened to the 1960s Mercury Living Presence recording and I would say the Mark Grant cable has outperformed "Slingshot". I have to wait for another 2-3 weeks before making up my mind SO THE Question?

What improvement will a second run of the cable ALA "Shotgun" is likely to offer. Thoughts and suggestions from Marco or Dave most welcome also

Cheers

Varun

Mike

31-07-2009, 20:19

What improvement will a second run of the cable ALA "Shotgun" is likely to offer.

Unless your cable runs are particularly long it probably won't make a huge difference. Are you bi-wiring or just doubling up onto the same speaker terminals?

Varun

31-07-2009, 20:19

And the speakers are standing on "beech chopping boards" with the same sorbothane spacers (tiny circles) underneath to isolate the boards from the floor. I tried Atacama feet but this set up makes a huge difference.

Varun

31-07-2009, 20:20

Doubling up Mike

Mike

31-07-2009, 20:33

Do those B&W's only have a single pair of terminals on each?

I've found bi-wiring to be beneficial on speakers that cater for it, but the 'improvements' are usually subtle, and can be variable. Some prefer single runs and jumper cables, citing 'better coherence' as their reason.

If you're just doubling up, or 'shot-gunning', I would think any improvement would by quite subtle indeed unless the speaker are very current hungry. But I'm guessing here... I have no experience of your speakers or Mark Grant's cables. There's only one sure way to find out - try it! :)
I think his cables are very reasonable in cost terms so it shouldn't break the bank to find out.

Varun

31-07-2009, 20:52

Both the power amp and the speakers have posts for biwiring. Please see the response from Dave (DSJR) in the thread I had initiated in the "Artists Palette" section. I have lost contact with Peter Thompson of Plinius but one of the dealers in NZ tells me many Plinius owners use it. Does not mean I would as I have concerns.

Yes Mike using a second length would be worth it as it won't cost me much to see if the cable size is the main determining factor.

Else- I have my eyes on Siltech MXT as well.

Varun

Mike

31-07-2009, 20:57

Then I'd definitely try biwiring! :)

Varun

03-08-2009, 06:11

Done IT

I have Bi-Wired using the Slingshot- after a lot of hesitation and so the combination works- Slingshot in the upper/mid slot and Belden in the lower one. The brightness has been taken away- the lack of bass has been corrected. Much better therefore- with either single cable. Room acoustics forced this compromise. Anyway- the Slingshot- the left speaker one runs across the floor-something I always avoid but having seen the images of the some of the illustrious audiophile set ups- it is quite acceptable.

Thanks for all the help from every one.

Varun

The Vinyl Adventure

03-08-2009, 11:51

just a quick point on the black marker comment, it is the idea solution but choose wisely as some black markers have fade to purple/blue in a very short time. testing on an unseen area is worth while in the long run

Varun

03-08-2009, 16:01

I am grateful, in fact the black marker had produced a red colour on the grazed metal. I presume it is the Iron in the metal which did it.

Very good of view to point out. I was wondering what the next step would be? All I had done was to lower it on the pavers to catch my breath and the sheer weight made it happen-most infuriating.

Cheers

Varun

Mike Reed

03-08-2009, 16:10

I have to ask, Varun.

Your avatar looks very similar to a Koetsu, although I've no idea which one. Is this the cart. you use, an aspiration or just a red herring?

The markings may be of another Japanese cart., of course, as they're different to my Black.

The Vinyl Adventure

03-08-2009, 16:14

i just had a chat with the guys in the model shop upstairs from where i work and they tell me that the model paints that thay sell would do the job quite nicely. they do either acrilic or oil based and he tells me the acrilic would do the job, i mentioned that it would be fairly important to get it looking good and he said that the acrilic can also be watered down if you had trouble geting a smooth surface

http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/ this is them and the particular paint he suggested is made by a company called tamiya.. im sure it can be obtained in most model shops

he also pointed out that despite it being acrilic it would also dry to a waterproof finish... im not quite sure how what with acrilics being water based... but thats what he said

hope that helps

The Vinyl Adventure

03-08-2009, 16:19

.... im going o get a pot now to touch up my tt

The Vinyl Adventure

03-08-2009, 16:28

just another point - for touching up wood aparently enamel paint is better not that that apply i just though it might be worth pointing out for referance

Varun

03-08-2009, 19:10

I am enormously grateful Hamish- you have been tremendous help. I should go and order the paint.

Hello Mike: It is indeed a Koetsu Black K. It is next in line for re-tipping but either the cantilever is broken or has come off I do not know. It has been re-tipped once by Stylus Expert. The cartridge I am using now is Dynavector XX-1. The dificult decision making will come when it needs to be replaced. Retirement looms so the expenses can not go on galivanting as they have in the past. I noted your 509 mono blocks by the way-very nice.

Cheers

Varun

Varun

03-08-2009, 19:12

PS:

And to add Mike I bought it in 1987 from KJ-so it is the old style. The new one I see has a splash of gold paint in the base plate.

Varun

Mike Reed

03-08-2009, 19:40

PS:

And to add Mike I bought it in 1987 from KJ-so it is the old style. The new one I see has a splash of gold paint in the base plate.

Varun

Yup ! It's called the Goldline. So that's why I didn't recognise it, 'cos mine is a Goldline.

Often wondered about Dynas. (especially the two top ones); I would imagine they're rather different to the Black. Possibly more akin to the Lyra? (I took my Helikon off in favour of the Black over a year ago;- pre Valve amps., so maybe I should stick it back on again to see how it compares now.)

Just a thought ! The dynas and the Koetsus have very different outputs and impedance preferences, so I wonder what phono stage you use that'll accommodate both. (Dyna = 0.3 mv ish; Black etc. = 0.6 mv)

Cheers

The Vinyl Adventure

03-08-2009, 20:05

I am enormously grateful Hamish- you have been tremendous help. I should go and order the paint.

no probs, i touched up my wooden tt with the paint they recomended and its worked a treat, you have to look pretty close to notice

im not saying that as a guarantee that thier advice will be right but they have a 100% hit rate so far!

good luck!

Mike

03-08-2009, 20:59

(http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/)http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/ (http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/) this is them and the particular paint he suggested is made by a company called tamiya.. im sure it can be obtained in most model shops

(http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/)

Excellent stuff that! Used it on many a model. :)

The Vinyl Adventure

03-08-2009, 21:46

i know very little about models these days, i used to be in to my R.C. cars as a kid/teen ... i still have all the bits and bobs somewhere but i couldnt tell you where.. all that stuff was tamiya ... great fun it was!
as for models proper.. i bought a vw bettle plastic kit model thing about 14 years ago and still havent finnished it... i will one day!!

anyway... is that paint actually waterproof when its dry?

Mike

03-08-2009, 22:12

anyway... is that paint actually waterproof when its dry?

Yup... unless you get a bit 'vigorous' with a wet cloth or something! ;)

Varun

04-08-2009, 19:11

Many thanks Hamish again- you are an expert.

Hi Mike- sorry to include you in the same reply.

I use Plinius M14 phono preamplifier- you will see it on the rack just below the TT- the silver item. The knob on the L selects Low or High output and the one on the R the cartridge load. My Dynavector is High Output and was bought to complement the EAR pre-amp. I was using HI-FI news step up box with the Koetsu before. My Black has 0.4 output. The Dynavector is an outstanding cartridge and preferred by VPI people. Unfortunately I should have grabbed the half price offers of a couple of years ago-but now they are quite pricy. Cartridge is something I have found mysekfunable to make compromise on. I had tried OC9 once it was quickly replaced by the Dynavector and put away in a drawer and never used. It was sold with my LP12 and Ittock at a bargain price.

Varun