The next Technics project... SP-10 [Archive]

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6L6

05-09-2014, 04:32

http://origin.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/SP-10_first_photo.jpg
(The funny widgets are the motor hub fixing plates)

No, you are not seeing double.

This is my newest and most ambitious project yet - Technics SP-10Mk2A. Neither have a PSU, but that's not a difficult thing. Happily, both are operational, I tested them today with a friend's PSU. One has a fiddly main switch. Both are in sorrier cosmetic shape than I thought. That may prove an issue, only time will tell.

So will I make one good one from the ashes of two? I have no idea yet. Of course, having two at the end of this is always more attractive of an option. I do, however, think I may make one black, that would look quite sharp.

On the to-do list -

Re-cap the main board.
Build PSU
Adjust main board and switches as needed.
Figure out if I have one good table or two.
Build plinth(s).
Address cosmetic issues.
Determine if I can get a long armwand for my Graham, or just get a 10.5" Jelco.
Etc...

NRG

05-09-2014, 07:19

Good luck! Reminds me, I must finish one of my SP10's. I sorted the electronics a while back but never got around to the cosmetics...

Marco

05-09-2014, 08:48

Looking forward to this one, Jim - it’s about time someone here pimped an SP10! I expect the results to be superb :)

Marco.

dimkasta

05-09-2014, 20:50

Subscribed :)

Wow Jim... you have MANY projects open :)

6L6

05-09-2014, 21:05

Wow Jim... you have MANY projects open :)

Gawd, no kidding...

The problem is that in general, I don't admit to all them in one place, as the list is truly terrifying. Years worth. And that's only counting things where I have the boards or chassis or both...

Heck, I have 2 literally on my bench right now! (Valve linestage, Pass amp...)

dimkasta

05-09-2014, 22:15

Do you have the schematic of the sp10 psu?

6L6

05-09-2014, 22:49

Yes. It's available at Vinyl Engine.

6L6

09-09-2014, 15:14

Like I mentioned, both tables are operative, the biggest concerns (other than the need to build PSUs for both) is purely cosmetic.

So let's look at the tables as I received them. These photos intentionally are showing all the warts as ugly as possible.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0547.jpg
The prettier one. Not bad generally, but the marring and corrosion is all on the 'close' side of the table where it will be seen.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_05501.jpg
The text can be re-filled. the corrosion is fairly shallow.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0549.jpg

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0548.jpg

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0551.jpg
A couple of nicks in the black paint. No big deal.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_05551.jpg
Marring on the paint, no corrosion.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0553.jpg
Inside the brake section is very clean, and there is plenty of friction material (felt) on the band.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0554.jpg
I have no idea if this is a lot of wear or not on the hub. I thought it worth a photo, to see if anybody can compare.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0563.jpg
The platter of the prettier one.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0564.jpg
A bit of corrosion, nothing severe at all.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0561.jpg
The stock platter mat had something glued to it. I have no idea hot to get a hard adhesive residue removed from rubber...

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0562.jpg

6L6

09-09-2014, 15:25

Beobloke

09-09-2014, 15:33

Looking forward to seeing how this pans out as my own SP10 (a BBC Modified SP10Mk2P - BBC RP2/9) is gradually creeping closer to the top of my "attention" pile!

Sadly a few pairs of loudspeakers still need sorting first... :rolleyes:

6L6

09-09-2014, 15:53

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/1280x853xIMG_0537.jpg.pagespeed.ic._4bxNDMIkY.jpg
The uglier one.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0539.jpg

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0538.jpg

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0540.jpg
Yes, this one is not as pretty.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0541.jpg

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0542.jpg
That's down into the metal. :(

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0559.jpg
The platter is certainly worse.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0556.jpg

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_05581.jpg
This is 30 seconds with steel wool, so it's obvious that it will clean up.

Now the thing that is completely obvious to me after taking the photos and looking into them it that the 'damage' is, in fact, purely cosmetic. They got lightly wet on the top surface and were in a place that was damp or humid so that water had a chance to penetrate and corrode. But it is completely contained on the top surfaces. :) :) :)

6L6

09-09-2014, 16:04

The good news - The insides are gorgeous. (This happens to be the innards of the uglier one. :) )

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_05441.jpg
Really, it's very clean. I'm still going to replace all the electrolytics, they get ravaged with age, so replacing them should last another 30 yr.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0543.jpg
It's 30-someting years old... a few cobwebs are part of the character.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_05451.jpg
About the only thing really showing it's age are these PVC tubes as insulation, it's breaking down a bit and weeping oily stuff.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0546.jpg
This is neat - the edge connector's clips actually fold out, so there's very little stress when using the plugs.

NRG

09-09-2014, 19:08

Thanks for posting those internal shots, I've not seen the guts of a MKIIa before very different to the MKII. The electronic setup is quite different as well, good luck!

6L6

09-09-2014, 23:11

My machinist friend was around today, so I took the platters to his shop and gave them a spin on the lathe -

I think they look quite a bit nicer! :D

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0565.jpg

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0566.jpg

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_05681.jpg

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_05671.jpg
Unfortunately the platter from the 'nicer' table got dropped in the process, my fault, and got a few dings in it. This is the worst one.

I'm still probably going to go back and give the platters another round of cleaning up, I didn't bring all the compounds I wanted to try, and also ran out of time. But as they stand right now, they look much, much better than when I started. :D

struth

09-09-2014, 23:36

RE the glue on the rubber mat...is it contact adhesive ? if it is then Vinegar often softens it up enough to get it off....Lighter fluid at a push but be careful as apart from it being dangerous stuff it can damage the mat if left on too long. try it on the underside first.

6L6

10-09-2014, 14:34

Over on diyAudio (I'm doubling up this thread, as there not a lot of cross-pollination between the two forums) people are suggesting that I machine the edge and get the nics out... but as ZenMod says, it's personality now, and will be a reminder of this project. So they stay.

That said, I will most likely go back and clean them up more at some point.

But that can wait, as it is much more important to build PSUs for these guys, and re-cap the drive PCB. Once that's done, I will get the drive adjusted and tuned-up to spec, and then disassemble everything, and re-finish the chassis of both table somehow.

I've ordered new Torlon thrust bearing plate caps from user510 - sp10mkII_pad Much, much more info, here -- sp10 brg
Necessary? Probably not, but I like the idea of overhauling the wear points.

And when I make a McMaster-Carr order, I'll get a new SiN ceramic thrust ball.

Andrei

10-09-2014, 22:58

StanleyB

10-09-2014, 23:45

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_05671.jpg
Unfortunately the platter from the 'nicer' table got dropped in the process, my fault, and got a few dings in it. This is the worst one.
We used liquid steel at one of my previous places of work to fix those kind of nicks. look for
Loctite Fixmaster Steel Liquid or Loctite Fixmaster Aluminum Liquid.

6L6

11-09-2014, 02:56

The caps for the PCB arrived. Hooray!

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/SP-10_caps.JPG
Of course, they are all Panasonic.

:D

dimkasta

11-09-2014, 07:56

Cool :) Love panas... especially FR, but I only see FC/FM in there... :)

I checked the schematics on Vinylengine. So you just need two voltages? 31V and 5V? It should be a walk in the park :)

6L6

11-09-2014, 12:56

Three, actually, there's 140V required to light the strobe. In addition to the 5V for the logic and 32V for the motor.

But yes, there is nothing complex nor particularly special, other than 3 voltages in one PSU.

6L6

12-09-2014, 23:25

I started the re-cap procedure, it's all very straightforward. There are some things that need repair on the PCB, I.E., the fixing of poor repairs... But nothing major.

More photos as I progress.

http://origin.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/SP-10_recaping.jpg

6L6

16-09-2014, 23:58

I've completed the re-cap on one of the boards (save for one cap I didn't realize was a bi-polar electrolytic, so I need to order a few of those...)

When I get into the remainder of the 2nd board I'll grab some photos.

It's a straightforward process, and although the PCB are thin with thin copper, it's made up for by there being silkscreen on both sides of a single-layer board. :)

RochaCullen

17-09-2014, 08:24

Great project.

I would dearly love to undertake something similar in the not so distant future. All the best with it, and hopefully you can get that nick out of the platter. I winced when I saw that!!

6L6

17-09-2014, 11:48

The nick is staying. I would suggest not wincing, it can be painful.

:)

Qwin

18-09-2014, 14:15

:popcorn:

6L6

18-09-2014, 14:16

http://origin.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_05761.jpg

So once opening the table up and getting to the solder side of the PCB I find one things that are less than optimal... This being the worst offender. There was power resistor replaced on the board, and on this table it was made by somebody badly connecting 2 resistors in series. When they did this the traces lifted and this mess was made.

http://origin.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_05811.jpg
Here's the new resistor, with bends in the leads to let things heat up without stressing the PCB any more. (In this photo it looks like the bend blocks the pot - it's only camera angle, and the pot is easily accessible.)

http://origin.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0577.jpg

Luckily there was a few unused holes in the PCB where it could attach, and the lift trace could be left completely alone.

http://origin.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0578.jpg
Ok, this one is all my fault... It's a very fragile board, 31yr old, with surprisingly thin copper. Luckily there is a few places where I could re-attach the lead and make the circuit.

http://origin.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0586.jpg
The board with beautiful new caps.

http://origin.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0582.jpg
Dead soldiers

http://origin.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0580.jpg

With the PCB off I can see the production date of the motor. I was in 3rd grade of elementary school that day. :)

6L6

21-09-2014, 15:07

Lots of activity on this thread at diyAudio - the guy who talked me into this is making wonderful progress, and another friend has gotten one as well.

See here -

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/261735-technics-sp-10-mk2a-project-6l6-2.html#post4063701

And post #59, and post #69

Their tables are Mk2, not Mk2A, but the mechanicals are identical.

6L6

02-10-2014, 17:41

Platter Mat -

Taking the advice of very warm water, a bit of detergent and letting it soak, the glue residue is almost entirely removed. There is still some damage to the rubber itself, but it's almost all cosmetic.

The two mats are photographed to show the damage. In general, they look pretty nice.

http://cdn-2.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_0592.jpg

http://cdn-2.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_0593.jpg

http://cdn-2.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_0591.jpg

http://cdn-2.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_0590.jpg

6L6

02-10-2014, 18:04

PSU -

Here's an interesting story, sorry no photos, and this is probably the most eye-opening thing about this project thus far;

The PSU requirements are fairly benign - there are 3 voltages, all with a common ground,

5V (15mA) This is the logic supply
32.5V (250mA) Motor supply
140V (7mA) To light (but not control) the strobe

Now looking at that you see nothing at all out of the ordinary - and to get things to work, the strobe doesn't need to light up.

SO... why not hook it up to a two-channel regulated bench supply? One output at 5V, one at 32.5V. Easy.

Well, not so much... With three different supplies, a linear HP, a big switcher chinese thing, and a big linear Lambda, all three PSU were not able to drive the motor. It must be too inductive a load or something similar. The HP made the speed just run away, the lambda it ran fast, and the switcher was just massively confused as it was trying to relay through whatever voltage it though it was supposed to supply, at which time I unplugged the table.

These results were identical for both of my tables.

Both tables run fine on the Technics supply.

6L6

02-10-2014, 18:19

Testing -

So the general setup for testing is as follows,

1) Remove PCB screws and a few other assemblies from the position under the chassis,
2) prop table up, let PCB onto tabletop,
3) get service manual (on computer) and schematics at hand,
4) have at it.

http://cdn-2.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_0594.jpg

At this point all I am am doing is comparing waveforms and parameters from the schematic to what I measure in real life. So far this looks rock solid.

Some random photos -

http://cdn-2.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_0596.jpg
33RPM drive speed good

http://cdn-2.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_0597.jpg
Quarts crystal frequency is exactly what it's supposed to be

http://cdn-2.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_0598.jpg

http://cdn-2.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_0599.jpg

phonomac

02-10-2014, 18:40

Hello Jim,

PSU -
Here's an interesting story, sorry no photos, and this is probably the most eye-opening thing about this project thus far;

The PSU requirements are fairly benign - there are 3 voltages, all with a common ground,

5V (15mA) This is the logic supply
32.5V (250mA) Motor supply
140V (7mA) To light (but not control) the strobe

Now looking at that you see nothing at all out of the ordinary - and to get things to work, the strobe doesn't need to light up.

SO... why not hook it up to a two-channel regulated bench supply? One output at 5V, one at 32.5V. Easy.

Well, not so much... With three different supplies, a linear HP, a big switcher chinese thing, and a big linear Lambda, all three PSU were not able to drive the motor. It must be too inductive a load or something similar. The HP made the speed just run away, the lambda it ran fast, and the switcher was just massively confused as it was trying to relay through whatever voltage it though it was supposed to supply, at which time I unplugged the table.

These results were identical for both of my tables.

Both tables run fine on the Technics supply.

You must be doing something wrong somewhere. My test set-up of an SP10 Mk2 works perfectly on a bench supply which has a fixed 5V channel, and two variable ones which combine to give the 32.5V. As I assume you did I ignored the strobe since it isn't needed for anything other than as a gizmo. With the timing and PLL set up correctly it holds speed exceptionally well measured with an independent Key-Strobe unit. And makes excellent music as well :guitar:

regards

Angus

6L6

02-10-2014, 19:16

You must be doing something wrong somewhere. My test set-up of an SP10 Mk2 works perfectly on a bench supply which has a fixed 5V channel, and two variable ones which combine to give the 32.5V.

I agree that something isn't right... I just am not sure what. :(

It's actually great news to hear that your deck works on a bench PSU.

phonomac

03-10-2014, 07:21

I agree that something isn't right... I just am not sure what. :(

It's actually great news to hear that your deck works on a bench PSU.

Hello Jim,
I thought overnight that I could have phrased my message better :doh: I should have said that there was something wrong somewhere - not that it was you. However the good news is that a bench supply does indeed work. The load of the motor is seen by the drive electronics, so shouldn't be reflected to the power supply. On the Mk2 the 32.5v supply runs at 0.2A when the platter is stationary, pulses slightly up when the deck starts, then drops to 0.07A when the platter is running at stable speed. Apart from a fault/wrong setting on the electronics the only other thing I can suggest to check is that the power supplies you are using aren't current limiting prematurely.

Hope you get it sorted.

regards

Angus

6L6

14-10-2014, 21:10

Some of you may have heard of the SP-10Mk2 PSU that Wayne (Colburn, who designs everything but the power amps) made for in-house use at Pass Labs.

One has seemed to have gotten out of that house...

http://cdn-2.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/SP-10_PSU.jpg

(No, it's not completely stuffed, I need to make a Mouser order)

This will get a gorgeous chassis from Landfall Systems.

I still need to design and build another from scratch, but chatting with Dave Cawley as well as Wayne, I have a very solid idea of how to proceed. But I doubt it will be as completely cool as this one.

pure sound

19-10-2014, 19:51

Looking good. I ordered & received a couple of those replacement bearing caps but haven't fitted one yet. It'll be interesting to see what that brings.

6L6

22-10-2014, 01:46

I am looking forward to opening up the bearing and using the custom oil that I have gotten from a friend who is a professional chemist. (And avid audio DIYer...)

Anyway, I've gotten the Pass Labs PSU board stuffed and adjusted, it works beautifully.

The transformer for making the strobe voltage is bad, it has an open primary, I'll order another and post photos when I get it all set properly.

Next, making a PSU myself.

6L6

05-11-2014, 15:32

Pass PSU chassis -

This is from Landfall Systems, http://landfallsystems.com/ it's absolutely wonderful. I'll post some more photos when it's complete.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_2245.JPG

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_2244.JPG

6L6

05-11-2014, 21:59

More photos -

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_2249.JPG
Back. 4-pin XLR for power output, IEC, power switch.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_2250.JPG
Front. Switch for output relays.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_2251.JPG

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_22521.JPG

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_22531.JPG

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/WaynePSUdark.jpg
My preferred power indication, place a very bright blue (it's a Pass Labs design, after all...) LED in the chassis aimed towards the vent holes. I think it looks a teeny bit like Cherenkov radiation -- Cherenkov radiation - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cherenkov_radiation)

Spectral Morn

05-11-2014, 22:02

Fabulous work Jim :cool:

Regards Neil

6L6

16-11-2014, 18:03

All right. One down, one to go. :)

I've been mentioning making another PSU for awhile now, and I finally made some actual progress. Nothing is complete yet, nothing cast in stone, but here is the basic idea -

http://cdn-1.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/SP-10PSUblockDiagram.jpg

This is as good a place as any to explain a few things, although I know many of you will just skip this and look at the other photos... :)

The transformer is something I found in the surplus store, it's awfully close to what I would want if ordering something custom, and saves me a long search for a catalog item of similar spec. It's a custom toroid for Grace Audio designs. The windings have more than enough current for the job.

Motor Supply Looking at the top circuit, you see the motor drive.

The secondaries will be in series, giving about 50V after the bridge. This will be sent to a big CRC, then to a Pass 'Zen Regulator' from Zen Variations 3 -- www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_zv3.pdf I'm using the zen reg for a few very important reasons - 1) there is some excess voltage to drop before the LM317 input, 2) this reg will free the LM317 from dealing with most of the line variations, 3) I have wanted to try this for a while and have all the parts on hand. But honestly, It's mainly about dropping the excess voltage.

After the ZenReg, a bog-standard LM317 circuit will be used with one twist - it will be elevated by 6.9V as it will sit on top of an LM329 precision voltage reference. Why? To give the 317 an easier job of regulation (as the top of the 329 will be rock solid in respects to ground), to help isolate the 317 from any grunge upon ground, as well as keeping the input-output voltage of the 317 lower than it's maximum. (And I have some and want to play with them... :) )

More detail can be found in this diagram -
http://cdn-2.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/MotorDrive1.jpg

And an image of the ZenReg, for those interested (Image courtesy of Nelson Pass)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/ZenReg.jpg

Cool.

Logic supply -

The 10VAC winding of the transformer will be sent to a PCB with bridge, large cap, and LM317. The caps will not be enormous, as it's important for the logic supply to get to voltage faster than the motor supply.

Strobe supply

This one is a bit fun, the strobe voltage will be made by connecting a small 12V transformer 'backwards' to the 10VAC winding of the main transformer. That voltage will then be rectified and sent to a Supratex LR8 regulator, which can take a maximum input voltage of 450V ! Neat. :) Anyway, this circuit is the least critical of all them, as it's job is merely to light the strobe, it literally is connected to one resistor and the Neon lamp. The regulator will be massive overkill, which is always good, and I thank Dave Cawley for the suggestion of that part.

A few more photos -

http://cdn-1.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_22751.jpg
The chassis it will all be placed into.

http://cdn-1.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_2269.jpg
Testing the ZenReg.

http://cdn-2.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_2268.jpg
The ZenReg. The plan is to use the chassis itself as the heatsink, and the circuit is built on perfboard. Heatshrink has been used to insulate the assembly from the chassis wall as well as cover up the messy wiring job.

Comments, criticisms, and questions are warmly solicited.

6L6

20-11-2014, 01:33

The Chassis has been sent to be refinished, my brother-in-law owns an automotive paint and body shop, he is going to prep and paint it, I merely need to decide on a color. Somebody has suggested Autoair colors 4584, but it would clash with the plinth.

These photos were made to assist me in the reassembly of the turntable, but I thought you may want to see them as well -

http://cdn-1.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/450x600xIMG_2312.jpg.pagespeed.ic.kA5rgOhf8I.jpg
Switch assembly

http://cdn-2.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/450x600xIMG_23141.jpg.pagespeed.ic.DbOkXLjO3s.jpg
Edge connector

http://cdn-1.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/450x600xIMG_23131.jpg.pagespeed.ic.vitW6LRUO0.jpg

http://cdn-2.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/450x600xIMG_23152.jpg.pagespeed.ic.brrHIBaXrI.jpg
Motor bottom

http://cdn-1.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/450x600xIMG_23162.jpg.pagespeed.ic.S0SV7UwFgd.jpg
Strobe assembly

http://cdn-2.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/450x600xIMG_23172.jpg.pagespeed.ic.eQjZzdv56D.jpg
Mechanical brake

http://cdn-1.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/600x450xIMG_23182.jpg.pagespeed.ic.kE9IiRg1GR.jpg
Various stand-offs on chassis bottom

http://cdn-2.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_23191.jpg
Parts removed from chassis

http://cdn-2.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_23201.jpg
Bare chassis

RochaCullen

20-11-2014, 12:38

Love this thread. What about a nice matt black on the chassis.

6L6

20-11-2014, 14:27

The colors that I am considering are the original silver (or something close), a glossy black, and matt black.

6L6

27-01-2015, 23:26

This thread has seemed to stall out, mainly because I'm stuck waiting for 2 different things that I myself am not doing - namely repainting one of the chassis and a plinth. Both things are in progress, but will obviously taking some time.

If you are interested in all things SP-10, I would suggest looking at my thread over at diyAudio - it's taken on a life of it's own, as there are currently 4 people in progress of SP-10mk2 restorations/modifications. A good read, I'm sure you will enjoy -- http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/261735-incredible-technics-sp-10-thread.html

6L6

13-02-2015, 03:13

FINALLY got it!!

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_2910.JPG

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_2911.JPG

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_2912.JPG

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_2913.JPG

I think it looks grand. Not super duper shiny, exactly what I was hoping for.
BTW, this is the uglier of the two original chassis. I'm so completely happy with how it looks, it's a million times better than before.

Spectral Morn

13-02-2015, 06:59

Looking good.

Regards Neil

lurcher

13-02-2015, 09:46

To give the 317 an easier job of regulation (as the top of the 329 will be rock solid in respects to ground), to help isolate the 317 from any grunge upon ground

Not sure I understand how thats going to work. The 329 will maintain a constant voltage between its pins, so any noise on ground will be exactly copied at the other pin, so the 371 wont see any difference differential noise wise.

NRG

13-02-2015, 10:24

I was curious about that as well, the idea behind using a 329 in place of R2 is to lower the dynamic impedance Seen on the adj pin which has a direct bearing on the o/p noise of the LM317...

6L6

13-02-2015, 13:05

Regarding the 329 as voltage reference, that idea didn't work ( well, it worked just fine, but there was no noise advantage... ) and instead have tried something suggested to me, simply making the capacitor that bypasses the adj-gnd resistor much bigger than normal--220uF instead of 10.

Look here and read for a few posts until you get to the diagram from a magazine:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/261735-incredible-technics-sp-10-thread-3.html#post4124664

6L6

19-02-2015, 01:07

The black one is back together and working beautifully!

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_2921.JPG

With it's arm.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_2922.JPG

Now I need a plinth. :)

Andrei

19-02-2015, 01:25

The Chassis has been sent to be refinished, my brother-in-law owns an automotive paint and body shop, he is going to prep and paint it, I merely need to decide on a color. Somebody has suggested Autoair colors 4584, but it would clash with the plinth.

That somebody is some wiseguy. I googled Autoair colors 4584 and the first hit was clip describing the color as ... and I quote ... "Pornstar Pink"

6L6

19-02-2015, 02:43

Better than that, it's Sparklescent Porn Star Pink...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dthCEhME0-E

(FWIW, I knew exactly what color it is, it's just fun for forum members to apply a bit google and make witty comments... :) )

NRG

19-02-2015, 09:13

Wasnt sure of the black when you first posted it but its growing one me...I kinda like it!

Qwin

19-02-2015, 09:55

Comming together nice, I wasn't sure about the Black either, but when I saw the picure of it with the Arm, I see where you are going.
Excellent project Jim.

Marco

19-02-2015, 10:06

Looks superb, Jim! I love the black, as it has just the right amount of shine, but with an overall 'velvety' matt look - gorgeous! And that PSU looks as if it means business... :eyebrows:

What's the plinth going to be like? :)

Marco.

Barry

19-02-2015, 10:21

The combination of the Technics SP10 with the Graham arm is going to be awsome! :eek: I'm very envious! :)

Looking forward to seeing what the plinth looks like.

YNWaN

19-02-2015, 10:56

The turntable I'm working on now will have a Corian plinth (very nice to work with). I think that would also work well with your Technics Jim.

Spectral Morn

19-02-2015, 11:32

Tarzan

19-02-2015, 19:14