View Full Version : Thorens td160 project
Well, after being inspired by Nathan and his wonderful TT restoration, I have decided to try one too, so bought a Thorens 160 .....the baseplate is pretty much immaculate so no problems there.
Have a few things I would like to do, and a few I will have to do.
any info and help would be great and in meantime I will get on with the cheap/free things I can do til I raise the ness cash for an arm and probably a nice plinth. Have had a brainwave and decided to sell my Irwin fight jacket as I never wear it now, and that will go a long way to my goal.
Dunno how good thee can be, and not sure as to an arm etc yet, but have a long way to go before I get there. I did notice it is 220v and I think it is a mains motor so was wondering if I should attenuate the voltage going in? I have a nice variac unit I made recently that I don't use so that may be of use.
Will get some pictures up when I can.....please post me your best ideas(no rude ones please):eek:
walpurgis
08-08-2014, 22:06
Best of luck with it Grant. I like the TD160, it's a decent unit, easy to work on too. I'll look forward to your piccies! :)
killie99
09-08-2014, 11:30
Here's one (http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?84184-The-TD160-Upgrade)I brought back to life
And another one (http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?102929-Another-TD160)
Both excellent Stuart..hope mine comes out near as good.
Looked out and photo ed my Irwin jacket. Will get it on the bay tonight and try and get some funds in.
It looks great, as it should as its hardly been on due to health changes
Just gonna start on the deck shortly
I will be subscribing to this thread Grant. I like threads like this, the only problem is it's going to encourage me to do another 1 :hmm: :lol:
Thats my cunning plan Nathan :eek:
...well got lots done. Cleaned all the dust which looked like fine corrosion off the base of the plates and cut and fitted some cork matting. also put some in the inner rim of the central platter to reduce ringing etc.
Drained and cleaned the bearing, topped up and tested. running super quiet.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/904/yBlzA6.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/912/KCRAbu.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/742/sDU7WO.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/674/82f0nc.jpg
Got some tcut and gave the outer platter rim a good clean, and fitted a new belt as well. Unable to check the speed at present but will get to that next week.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/BhcHQJ.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/913/h4Z2ei.jpg
The armboard area looks to be fine, as does the suspension which looks damn near new tbh.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/661/w9CxtX.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/902/Q1cH6C.jpg
220v made in Germany, so think my variac will be of use; will find out when the strobe disc arrives. As to a plinth, I will see whats available as soon as I can afford one and will also see about finding an arm/ armboard combo chosen. seen sme 309's look good on these decks, and liked the look of Stuarts rega 300. That Jelco that recently sold would have been grand but came up too soon.
:eyebrows:
Picked up a nice rega arm board for it. Metal type for 250/300 ragas and maybe more so it may point me in that direction arm wise ...second hand but saves sending off to the US.
Think I will have to take out a bit of metal with a dremmell ??
killie99
12-08-2014, 13:05
yes, you need to get your dremmell out - I have a picture somewhere of the cut out I did I'll try and find it
http://stuartlittlejohn.f2s.com/rega_cut_out.jpg
richie60
12-08-2014, 13:15
Don't think the rega arm is the best choice on this TT. I used to have a td160 and fitted an rb250 to it with the metal plate. Trouble is, the arm sits way too high.
killie99
12-08-2014, 13:23
Don't think the rega arm is the best choice on this TT. I used to have a td160 and fitted an rb250 to it with the metal plate. Trouble is, the arm sits way too high.
You were using the wrong armboard then. The 'soundsupports' Rega TD160 armboard puts the RB250/300 at the correct height.
richie60
12-08-2014, 14:10
Eh, no it does not. I used the sound supports armboard.
Just checked and it is sound supports one. Second hand but looks perfect. They say it is the right one for a td160. Not deffo it will be a rega 1 point, but at least if I don't use it I can resell.
killie99
12-08-2014, 14:31
I've build 2 TD160's with the Rega sound supports arm board and not had any issues with arm height. I can't see how the arm can possibly be sitting too high unless the arm board was manufactured wrong. I might have pictures somewhere of the decks with the arm on the record showing the VTA.
well, they are manufactured for that purpose so sure the will work.....the pic the guy shows on his deck the arm looked level.
Got a Rega armboard on along with mat and checked speed. seems fine
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/539/WvRzDF.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/901/MNlE9M.jpg
Also picked up a Mayware armboard so thats a possible tonearm as well.
Looking good, I love these project threads :)
I had a TD160 many years ago. I made an aluminium arm board and fitted a Rega RB300 - I never had any alignment issues.
The Rega hole looks spot on to me, having had to drill out countless ones on MDF blanks once upon a time (the R200 tapered plastic top mounting piece used to almost cover the rear right screw..).
You DON'T need to damp the platter underneath. The fitting of the two platter pieces all but cancels ringing out a la Linn LP12 and when I bought an outer platter full width 'belt' that's a fairly firm fit round the periphery, I heard no difference whatsoever. The sub-chassis damping isn't really an issue either, as the main problem is the coupling from main bearing to the arm via fairly thin metal! KJ did their own modded TD160 once, which offered a strip of timber glued and bolted around the main bearing (hole drilled so the bearing housing was a fairly tight fit), going right out to the arm area and acting as a wooden tonearm mount. Not saying this is necessary, but the attachment of bearing to sub-chassis is quite important I think.
If you look alongside the left hand spring as viewed from the top, you'll see a hole in the top plate and a corresponding one in the sub-chassis. This helps with sub-chassis centring. My advice is to leave the springs, grommets and wedge shaped cam washers in place. Level the suspension up with arm and platters fitted, use some nail varnish on the NUTS ONLY to hold them in place. The cams can then be carefully aligned to centre the suspension in all planes and allow a piston-like vertical bounce. MOST Td160's fall together like this, but the odd one or two could give trouble!
I set up hundreds of these during the mid to late 70's with Rega, Hadcock and SME arms (mostly). A Linn LP12 setup manual can also give more general hints on tonearm exit cable dressing (how, why etc), which is usually via a GENTLE curve and out through the cable clamp alongside the mains cable one. Earthing of the sub chassis to the top plate and out to an earthing point is important too.
Sorry, eyes tired and can't see well to type any more on this. Hope the above helps. I wrote an article on TD160 setup for 'Audiophile' magazine once and it was published (I think I got £45 for it :))...
That mat MUST be replaced with something else! I like cork, but a heavy rubber type as fitted to the 160 Super may well be better, as was the Avon mat of old IIRC. The squidgy Dumpa type mat sold well with these decks too. Felt mats are horrible I remember.
All this faff and an old R200 equipped Planar 3 trounced it I recall. We couldn't sell Rega then but traded the odd one or two in for an LP12...
I would go for the cork mat option as I really don't like the sonic impact of thick rubber mats like the Ariston.
Ultimately I found the main bearing to be the weakest link - not so much the mounting as just the tolerances.
Thanks for the input...
Intend putting either a thick cork mat on or a composite cork/ rubber mix....probably the cork one though..I really like the corkstone one too but it is quite thin ...they do a stained black one too whch might add some authenticity to it....worry about that once I get an arm on it. and I still need a plinth.:doh:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/906/0G64n9.jpg
picked this Mayware formula 4 armboard up for a fiver.....its rather well made and gives me another arm option
walpurgis
16-08-2014, 22:44
TD160 + Mayware is a nice combination.
nce to know Geoff. It is one of my options as I can make it happen. Cannot so far locate a me board so may well go with the mayware.
Well the malware arm board,s outer dimensions were too small and it actually sat inside the top plate slot instead of covering it...bummer!
Decided to alter an old plate I had lying around and wallah, it now fits....noticed there I still have a bit to take out inside the hole.doh! Thought I,d made it wide enough.. Will do that next time...here,s a PIC
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/17/7661b67a9fae0eac639bc5af743fee3b.jpg
Not quite as elegant as the rega plate but will do for now. Much depends what arm I can get of course. Cannot lay my hands on a silver SME plate so think that may be a non starter.
Mike - H
17-08-2014, 16:57
You were using the wrong armboard then. The 'soundsupports' Rega TD160 armboard puts the RB250/300 at the correct height.
I had the same problem with my RB 300 sitting too high with that armboard, I planned to cut down the legs/pins just not got round to it yet, as it's on a TT I'm not using at present
The bearing on the early TD160's went sloppy as did the TD125 mk2 (they came along at the same period). later 160mk2's went for a thinner bearing shaft and I think a full depth sleeve. No problem with tolerances then. I've been told off for suggesting EP80 gear oil, but an equivalent turbine oil as Thorens themselves used can be got and this is utterly fine (I got the info and a wrist slap from someone on the Audiosmile forum).
walpurgis
17-08-2014, 18:22
I've been using EP90 or EP80 with a drop of STP for over 40 years with no bearing wear. Ever!
Mr Kipling
17-08-2014, 18:26
When I had one in the late 70s I wanted something more solid than the standard armboard. So I had one made at work which was only a piece of 1/4" steel plate cut to size with the 3 mounting holes and one for the Hancock base. It was mounted to the chassis with 3 half inch spacers. It worked for a Hadcock.
Why not try a piece of 1/4 ply mounted on spacers? I still have some of the spacers left and can send you what you would need, if you want.
Mr Kipling
17-08-2014, 18:41
The bearing on the early TD160's went sloppy as did the TD125 mk2 (they came along at the same period). later 160mk2's went for a thinner bearing shaft and I think a full depth sleeve. No problem with tolerances then. I've been told off for suggesting EP80 gear oil, but an equivalent turbine oil as Thorens themselves used can be got and this is utterly fine (I got the info and a wrist slap from someone on the Audiosmile forum).
You wouldn't believe how thin the bearing shaft on a Roksan Radius MK I is. I was quite shocked to discover that'd it was only something like 3mm. It's the thinnest bearing shaft on a turntable I've ever seen. Still haven't measured it yet.
Hypoid 90 always used to be mentioned for turntable bearings years ago and was what I used to use. Still have some.
The bearing on this one is as new as far as I can tell. I used gear oil myself so I guess I'll be getting the same telling off:eyebrows: . Some of those spacers may come in handy Andy. I'll let you know when I make a final decision. In discussions with someone about making me a plinth...trying to get walnut and he seems to have found some :eek:
walpurgis
17-08-2014, 18:49
The thinner the shaft, the slower the opposing bearing faces pass each other. Mind you the point loading goes up.
Mr Kipling
17-08-2014, 19:23
I'm still trying (and failing) to visualize your comment, Geoff.
walpurgis
17-08-2014, 20:21
Which part? The edge of the platter is moving at much higher speed than the spindle, as you get nearer the axis the speed reduces. Point loading is a term used in engine design, if you have a reduced radius on a rotating bearing any potential metal to metal contact will be over a smaller area and therefore at higher pressure given the same amount of energy.
Mr Kipling
17-08-2014, 23:21
Thanks, Geoff.
I could understand your closing point. It was the opening comment that had me scratching my head. Eventually it sunk in though.
well, I have traced down an sme armboard and a sme 309 arm is going to be the choice, while an American Walnut plinth is under construction as I type...:eyebrows: gonna be a spectacularly nice thing......or a bloody big white elephant:scratch:
SME Arm board has arrived from Athens to near the Athens of the north. Quite nicely made and will do for now anyways.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/27/22c38cdbffcc324767cf125b83726dc4.jpg
And I have found my Sumiko head shell just in case its of use. Quite a pretty thing it is
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/27/aa25509dfd2cd72be4a3793dcd5cc326.jpg
walpurgis
27-08-2014, 16:49
That's a very decent looking armboard Grant.
The whole 'thing' about EP80 or not was to do with one of the additives sometimes used reacting with sintered bronze bushings. I've also used the stuff for years in sintered bearings including Thorens decks old and new with no issues.
An SME 309 really is going to be overkill though ;) An M2-9 may be a better mass match to the suspension - LP12 springs aren't really suitable here I believe, because the sub-chassis and platters still weigh less than the equivalent Linn ones (the TD125 has a massive top plate which makes up the mass)..
One thing that MUST be changed is the awful 'series 2' mat! I'm sure this is well in hand, but the TD160 mat was way inferior to the original multi-ribbed affair provided with mk1 TD150's and the 124.
an m2-9 is a tad out of my league I think. Plenty of 160's use them(309's) so should be ok .as for the ep80/ not sure if that is a metal coating or not tbh. is that what they call anodized? ...Dont want to go down the road of changing the springs. the ones on are fine, and the Linn ones are a fair bit stronger and longer screws would be needed I think. I have been looking at mats; cork and cork rubber mix of diferent thicknesses. The one I like is THIS ONE (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400753036984?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
will wait till it is assembled first in case there are any issues with vta first.
walpurgis
27-08-2014, 22:18
A Mission 774 (original model) works nicely on the TD160 and fits the SME mount. It works with any cartridge, gives excellent results and can be easily upgraded. I've been using a slightly modded one for years. It sounds very noticeably better than the Ittok I had before it and walked all over the various Rega arms I've owned, standard or upgraded. The 774 is a fine arm.
Is that another of the fluid damped tonearms Geoff? Think I saw one on a system deck once.
walpurgis
28-08-2014, 10:04
Yes, fluid damping is optional. Handy with low compliance MCs and Deccas. It will also track very high compliance MMs competently, my ADCs (which are MIM, to be exact) do very well in one. I used various Deccas in mine for years and my current ZYX MCs work fine in the 774. I keep three, 'cos you never know! :)
Well, I ve got a good deal on a 309 with detachable head shell so that'll be what's going on initially. Am hoping to get a techno arm or similar for the Arezzo and that'll free up my 250 for an upgrade and be a spare that'll fit both decks. Dunno if I will keep the carbon esprit or not. As much as I like it, it may have to go. Or may just hide it away:lol:
Well, I got the arm today and its a cracker! Will now have to see how I'm going to fix it to my new arm plate...pictures to follow.
Many thanks to Andy(wisecrackpot) for the great price and even delivering it. A gentleman to the hilt.
walpurgis
01-09-2014, 11:53
That should look very nice Grant. The TD160 always looks right with an SME fitted.
What cartridge will you use with it?
All I have currently is an om20, so that will have to do till I get something else. Might sound good, I have never used it yet.
Kinda open to ideas on this as long as it doesn't cost too much.
The arm
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/01/465489a836ddd0c778facc08d9c23b39.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/01/10212febd9a8f53285ea793ca7e2c709.jpg
And fitted now
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/01/036cc0b6cc2faf68afdcf791d42bded4.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/01/1c29fa1638f4fadd872662ebdf70bdf0.jpg
Wakefield Turntables
01-09-2014, 14:55
I've only just seen this thread :doh: I have a td160 as my 3rd deck with exactly the same arm. :eek:
I've only just seen this thread :doh: I have a td160 as my 3rd deck with exactly the same arm. :eek:
I'll know where to come when I hit problems then Andy....Not sure whih version it is but it looks pretty good. Can you use any protractor or do you need a special one?
Wakefield Turntables
01-09-2014, 19:16
13117
This is my 3rd system. As you can see I have the SME 3009 and Shure v15 mk3 cart. This Thorens came with the SME cutout already installed. I must admit that I generally use this system for playing car boot and charity shop records. ;) You need to make sure that the arm is mounted the correct distance from the apex of the bearing spindle to the apex of the SME arm pillar. You should be able to download the manual for the arm easy enough. I use Dr. Feckharts alignment tool but again you can download a myriad of alignment tools depending the one you want.
cheers... think I have Stevenson and Barwald versions somewhere...It may be quite close but will measure it...think it is 213/14 mil if memory serves. I take it you just loosen the 2 nuts on top and slide it if out. Have used a geo on a techie arm and it seemed to work which kinda surprised me:eyebrows:
It wont oust the arezzo but it might be a competitor to the carbon...time will tell on this.
Just need the plinth to get finished and I am nearly there.:)
Wakefield Turntables
01-09-2014, 19:55
Also get rid of the foam in your mounting springs, additionally have considered new mounting gromits and springs? The plinth is supposed to make a big difference.
The springs look new as far as I can tell, the deck looks to have hardly been used. Thought about putting Linn springs on but they are a fair bit stiffer so will leave it for now. Gonna put a cork mat on I think once funds allow, but need to wait as all spent out for now. Hoping the plinth will be the biggest addition to the sonic s and aesthetics of the thing...new thick baseboard to make as well, and probably change the mains cable to 3 core.
Fitted the shelf for the Thorens. Might be a tad high, but unless I use the project without the hinges I need the clearance....needs thinking about
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/673/gf0vQq.jpg
wiicrackpot
07-09-2014, 21:15
Thats a nice room Grant, like your themed decor and nice kit too. :cool:
Thats a nice room Grant, like your themed decor and nice kit too. :cool:
Thats me man cave Andy....The arm looks great on BTW:)
wiicrackpot
08-09-2014, 08:06
Thats me man cave Andy....The arm looks great on BTW:)
Good to hear it's working a treat, looking good from here. :)
Hoping to have the plinth ready for next week
and a cork mat's in the post! :)
wiicrackpot
09-09-2014, 15:58
Hoping to have the plinth ready for next week
Looking forward to the finish article Grant. :cool:
@gazjam, when did you sneak that Dyna XX2 mkii on your Gorbe?, nice one. :eek:
and a cork mat's in the post! :)
Cheers Gary...very generous mate.....
Looking forward to the finish article Grant. :cool:
@gazjam, when did you sneak that Dyna XX2 mkii on your Gorbe?, nice one. :eek:
Me Too Andy.....thanks again for the arm.
wiicrackpot
09-09-2014, 18:45
No Bother Grant, glad it's going to a good home and getting used, :)
i had designs on putting it on my TD124 or my in bits TD160,
but to be honest,i've designs on a SME M2-9 or higher up in the M2 range. :rolleyes:
Looking forward to the finish article Grant. :cool:
@gazjam, when did you sneak that Dyna XX2 mkii on your Gorbe?, nice one. :eek:
Last Tuesday! :)
Should come along to Gazjam towers in October Andy, have a listen!
wiicrackpot
09-09-2014, 22:03
Last Tuesday! :)
Should come along to Gazjam towers in October Andy, have a listen!
Well that was a cheeky one eh,nice one :eyebrows:, is that a pre independent celebration gift to yourself. :D
Thats tempting fate mate, yours among a handful of decks i'd like to hear/own,
Hyperspace or Dais, La Platine Verdier, Brinkmann La Grange, TW Raven, SME 20 and the big Kuzma. :eyebrows:
poverty sa bitch. :(
Got the cart on and arm adjusted
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/KUeZLn.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/661/hbLWLh.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/661/c0oeSw.jpg
A quick sound test, and even without being level and no plinth etc it was very, very good.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/11/4685666d3c156cee4e7ba9272412b79b.jpg
Some nice blue 3 core mains cable should look good
The Barbarian
11-09-2014, 13:37
Also picked up a Mayware armboard so thats a possible tonearm as well.
Grant :
Ive had loads of Thorens TD160's i used to make bespoke wooden surrounds for em at one point. I used to have an imported ATR {Audio Trade} TT which were upgraded TD160 Mk.II that came with Hadcock & Mayware arms..
Looks a cracker Andre. Nice arm, is that the mayware.?
Fitted the mains cable so the deck has a full earth now. Didn't want to put heat on the connectors where the old cable goes in case, so spliced it in with a connector. Not quite as tidy but, hey it is safe and no one will see it anyways.
The Barbarian
11-09-2014, 16:33
It was but that's just someone else deck not mine. Mine i fitted into one of my Bubinga surrounds. Yes It's a Mayware F4, the same i had on mine.. However i used the Thorens 'TD160 Super' aswell, that had SME '3009' fitted.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/12/9c179596f0a094b2c66cc62d02d738f6.jpg
Feet have arrived. Look and feel substancial
wiicrackpot
12-09-2014, 10:59
Feet have arrived. Look and feel substancial
They seriuosly look serious Grant, :eek: can't get away how quick you've got your project up and running. :cool:
Living on soup mate:lol:
They were actually quite reasonable although no idea if they're effective Andy. Time will tell but they look quite good. Might fit an extra gasket if needed.
Finally got a meter and dial for the variac I was thinking of using with the tt As the motor is a 220v unit. Not decided yet but the unit is finished anyhow.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/16/f9ae24cc13bcb0b996ba1dac714b2370.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/16/30605676f34044766bb20e0b22270d8e.jpg
Got Gary,s 2 piece cork/rubber mix mat today. Have tried it out and it sounds very good indeed. Got some weight on it to flatten it out a little but I like it. Great present Gary.
Got some pictures of the plinth now and should hope to get it next week. Its looking grand!
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/20/e111dd10248583a85b626868bf24554b.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/20/5e8140f57aaba87d2ca50e30d3437203.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/20/4efec14e05a7365d4683b8005865f9e8.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/20/73fd62262b0142c6fb7276668ec20c99.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/20/ccbf057fc3144fccba1f487569666f6c.jpg
A couple adjusted for clarity now
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/20/ec0e8ca0e82a174a97e74b1f88f1f34e.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/20/df477ebd87adafb4a4bc83b16b557351.jpg
And the platter with the new mat
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/20/dcc3739b48affa70d0e7bd6a32e642f3.jpg
That is a well chunky plinth Grant, a real quality item from the look of it :)
I think it is about 8kg in weight so should do the business Dave. Hoping to get it Wednesday. It may end up as TT no 1 and oust the Arezzo.:whistle:
The Barbarian
21-09-2014, 11:18
These are the budget MDF surrounds i used to make for the TD160. Instead of fitting the Thorens type corner blocks i use the groove the inside glue bespoke corners into the groove for extra strength & also ensure perfect lining up {The pieces fitted in the grooves you see are just offcuts to lift the surround off the box while it dries} but that is how they would slot in..
Notice the veneering & how the grain follows over the top to make it look as close as possible like a solid piece of wood. This is where people fail with veneering things like this they just glue any old off cut on the top. The veneer is Chestnut natural finish btw..
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w425/ELPFAN1968/Thorens27TD27Surround.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/ELPFAN1968/media/Thorens27TD27Surround.jpg.html)
Got some pictures of the plinth now and should hope to get it next week. Its looking grand!
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/20/e111dd10248583a85b626868bf24554b.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/20/5e8140f57aaba87d2ca50e30d3437203.jpg
That's very very nice Grant :stalks: is that American black walnut? I wish I made my plinth thicker now, I'm starting to like the Td160 a lot :doh: I feel another project coming :eyebrows:
Looks like you're spending a small fortune on this deck... I'm not criticising, not really, especially as I've just spent the cost of a top condition Dual 1214 in refurbing a transit wrecked example, fitting a replacement tonearm, platter and plinth after stripping out and cleaning up the mechanism - cough :lol: Still, kept me happy and I hope the TD160 project will do the same for you :)
That's very very nice Grant :stalks: is that American black walnut? I wish I made my plinth thicker now, I'm starting to like the Td160 a lot :doh: I feel another project coming :eyebrows:
It is indeed A B Walnut, although its a real wood veneer. comes up nice though. Hoping it is as nice in the flesh.
Looks like you're spending a small fortune on this deck... I'm not criticising, not really, especially as I've just spent the cost of a top condition Dual 1214 in refurbing a transit wrecked example, fitting a replacement tonearm, platter and plinth after stripping out and cleaning up the mechanism - cough :lol: Still, kept me happy and I hope the TD160 project will do the same for you :)
It all adds up, and you dont realise until you stop and add it up that it is a lot of cash. I would not likely spend this all at once, but bit by bit it somehow does not feel so expensive. Wont likely get my money back if I sold it but you have to factor in the enjoyment factor. It may well push my Arezzo of the top. I was playing it again today plinthless and slightly lopsided and it really sounds well through my shed system so I think it will get a trial indoors too on the firebottle..
The Barbarian
21-09-2014, 15:30
Looks like you're spending a small fortune on this deck...
Exactly. I cannot believe what goes through some peoples heads! Grant good lad for having a stab but imho it does not look very good as well as looking over proportioned..
Can i ask why do people have this compulsion to finish the inside BLACK?
Exactly. I cannot believe what goes through some peoples heads! Grant good lad for having a stab but imho it does not look very good as well as looking over proportioned..
Can i ask why do people have this compulsion to finish the inside BLACK?
Your entitled to your opinion, but in the end if everyone liked the same things it would be a pretty dull world. as for cost. well, I dont go to the pub, eat out, go to cinema or have holidays, so along with selling some stuff I have managed to find enough....and I have seen decks that dont look or sound any better costing much more. ;)
The Barbarian
21-09-2014, 19:02
Grant im not pulling you down & i can appreciate your chuffed with your plinth but to me it looks out of proportion..
I gather that!.... I might think that about yours, but I wouldn't comment on it.......fortunately everyone else thinks it is ok, and some have asked me where I got it.. but as I said before, its all horses for courses.:D
I'd be horrified if another person thinks its **** too
I think it looks pretty classy and slightly modern which might work well as a counterpoint to the motor unit. I see what Andre is saying about the proportions compared to his plinth but I just see different not better/worse.
I wanted a bigger base. TBH there was little point in doing it to me anyways, unless it was bespoke. I have not seen another the same and the guy who built it has not done one in that wood before. I always wanted to do something from scratch for me before I expire so I did it. Some people built a house, some a car, I did a TT.
As I said before I am, due to caring duties and my own health unable to get the freedom to do normal activities so I sold a pile of stuff I dont use and used it for something I will....and I will insist it goes in the box with me:eyebrows:
Wakefield Turntables
22-09-2014, 11:01
Grant, the best TT's are the ones into which you poor love, time and money into, and not the ones which cost stupid numbers of K's ;). I've rescued and restored both my 301 and 1210 and TBH I dont want any other decks. They sound sublime and every time I look at them I know exactly whats gone into them and get an immense feeling of satisfaction. I've built houses, set up and ran several very sucsseful businesses, taken several degree's, written a couple of books and loads of other stuff, but my TT's remain my personal favourite projects. My advice is simple just love what you've achieved. :D
Well said :clap:
Grant, the best TT's are the ones into which you poor love, time and money into, and not the ones which cost stupid numbers of K's ;). I've rescued and restored both my 301 and 1210 and TBH I dont want any other decks. They sound sublime and every time I look at them I know exactly whats gone into them and get an immense feeling of satisfaction. I've built houses, set up and ran several very sucsseful businesses, taken several degree's, written a couple of books and loads of other stuff, but my TT's remain my personal favourite projects. My advice is simple just love what you've achieved. :D
Grant, the best TT's are the ones into which you poor love, time and money into, and not the ones which cost stupid numbers of K's ;). I've rescued and restored both my 301 and 1210 and TBH I dont want any other decks. They sound sublime and every time I look at them I know exactly whats gone into them and get an immense feeling of satisfaction. I've built houses, set up and ran several very sucsseful businesses, taken several degree's, written a couple of books and loads of other stuff, but my TT's remain my personal favourite projects. My advice is simple just love what you've achieved. :D
That's my intention. Sure old Hermann would have approved too!
Would love to lay hands on their current model, the td550 . think it is a bobbydazzler
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Looks the Mutt's Nuts Grant
Wakefield Turntables
24-09-2014, 14:45
That looks great and a keeper for sure.
Thanks. Yes, I'm pleased with the results. Ash, the builder did a grand job and it was superbly packed and delivered by UPS on next day. Can't say fairer than that!
He flung in some cloths and the cover as well. Top bloke
Got more pics to upload tonight if they are OK.
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I'll find its new home later.
that is lovely Grant, I love to see people restoring and using the Thorens TD 150/60/66 model decks
great turntables that rarely get the praise they deserve, and one of the few bargain used buy's left.
just remember you will now need to dodge the fruit box and rubber band comments
Paul:cool:
Thanks and yes your right that some of those old designs just need a bit of an update and they'll compete with the new ones well enough. I like classic sympathetically redone.
The cart, the om 20 was taken off today as it was not good enough and I put on the aurum classic on but couldn't balance it out with the shumiko head doh!!
Had use the adc titanium with it as it's 5 grams lighter. So although the shumiko is prettier it cannot be done unless I can find a really heavy counter.
Gary it is now sounding right unlike yesterday.
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brian2957
27-09-2014, 17:28
Absolutely beautiful Grant , you and the other troops are making me yearn for a turntable again :) I would love to come over to yours for a listen to your gear . Gary told me he was paying you a visit the other day but unfortunately I was working . Maybe next time eh !
Anytime Brian....its deffo sounding better with the cart/headshell change although the arezzo is now in wrong place and looking forlorn....It might be the one to go? I will try and put the OM20 on it tomorrow
Never updated this with pics so hear goes.
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My giddy Aunt! It's a visual symphony Grant. Every single item - headshell, mat, etc - just really goes together. That is really something.
My giddy Aunt! It's a visual symphony Grant. Every single item - headshell, mat, etc - just really goes together. That is really something.
Thanks Andrei. I change the mat every now and then and like all the combos tbh. I have to admit it came out well visually and it sounds not half bad either :) as does my srm which is also drop dead gorgeous too.
It is so good I have hardly listened to a flac file or cd since I finished it.
MarginWalker
23-01-2015, 07:24
Beautiful looking TT, Grant. Would you recommend a cork mat as an upgrade for the TD160?
thick cork or a cork rubber mix works well on these decks i have found Phil...certainly better than the supplied rubber one that comes with them. currently back to using the 2 piece cork rubber mix. both can be had fron the bay..the one on in the pics comes from the states. the guy will if asked cut out the big hole for the 45 adaptor.
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