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dimkasta
10-07-2014, 08:42
I got my SL1200 used a few years back and absolutely love it...
I am a DIY junkie so modding it was a matter of time :)

I started with the feet, where I use some custom made graphite cylinders by Chameleon Audio.

The next mod was to rewire the arm. I initially used straight run shielded Cardas litz from the tags to the Eihman silver bullets. The tags were Cardas silver.
A few days ago I rewired the arm with some twinaxial solid medical grade silver wire. Unfortunately the 32AWG silver is too stiff, so I had to rewire the arm with cardas, and use the silver wire from the pcb to the RCAs.
Tags were replaced with some very nice quality gold plated industrial grade D-sub connectors.

On the chassis side, I permanently removed all plastic covers from underneath the platter, and I keep the dust cover without hinges, so that I completely remove it when listening.

The bearing is modified with a 0.5mm teflon disc on the thrust pad (I have not decided if I like it yet), and I have added a ball of beeswax under the bottom plate so that it is damped with the chassis body. The last one was a big improvement.
I used Singer oil, but it is very thin and gets quickly off the axle. I am now using some 15W moto fork oil from Bellray, but I would like to try some proper SAE30 thick oil too.

The transformer is in an external box with a 30uF CRCRC filter a'la 6L6 with 1N4007 rectifier. The fuse is ceramic by Cooper Bussman (I love these). Power is transferred as DC through an XLR connector and 2mm thick wires.
The internal switch is no longer functional, but I plan to add a switch right next to the fuse on the external PSU.
The internal regulator is replaced with a 317 circuit again a'la 6L6, and I plan to also add the tracking prereg once I make the layout a bit more robust.

The pitch controller is isolated and I intend to also remove all lights and not necessary pcbs.

The main PCB will also eventually be completely recaped.

Eventually I will seal all outer cavities with metal plaster and veneer the entire chassis with some Indian Rosewood.

Internally, I plan on filling the transformer cavity with some kind of dampening material, and also apply a thin-ish layer on the entire internal metal surface. I am thinking beeswax again, but I will have to research a bit about this.

I also plan to add some more vibration control on the bearing, but I have to work on this a bit more... The chassis is a bit confining to that area...

Oh and by the way, I use a Clearaudio Virtuoso with an audio Technica needle feeding a VSPS 300 phono, and a Shelter 501 MK2 feeding a Phonoclone v3

Audio Al
10-07-2014, 09:38
Sounds like a interesting project

Photos are now compulsery with projects :)

If you dont post any photos THIS WILL HAPPEN


:worthless:


:lol:

dimkasta
10-07-2014, 09:57
Yes I expected something like that :)

I will post some later today :)

dimkasta
10-07-2014, 10:02
Here is my rack a few years back. With just the graphite feet and rewired arm on the techie.

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And here is a photo of the teflon disc in the bearing

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6L6
11-07-2014, 01:50
Internally, I plan on filling the transformer cavity with some kind of dampening material, and also apply a thin-ish layer on the entire internal metal surface. I am thinking beeswax again, but I will have to research a bit about this.

I've been thinking about beeswax on the interface between the metal and the resin - coupling so the components can still work as designed, but better. I also see the possibility of making an epic mess... spilt wax and all that...



I also plan to add some more vibration control on the bearing, but I have to work on this a bit more... The chassis is a bit confining to that area...


Under the bearing try a small bit of blu-tac, or neoprene, or perhaps beeswax again...

dimkasta
11-07-2014, 06:26
I have added some wax and it works brilliantly.
The next step for me is to replace the screw holey part with some graphite.

dimkasta
13-07-2014, 14:23
Yesterday I managed to find some SAE 30 monograde oil (Like the factory Anderol 465 - SAE 30 / ISO 68) and replaced the 15W fork oil.

Things are much much much smoother...

It is BP Vanellus and I got it from the local home depot type store. Unfortunately it only came in 4Litre cans, so I now have enough oil to lube probably all the SL1200 in all MK versions all around Greece for the next 10 years :p

Andrei
14-07-2014, 00:06
Yesterday I managed to find some SAE 30 monograde oil (Like the factory Anderol 465 - SAE 30 / ISO 68) and replaced the 15W fork oil.

Things are much much much smoother...

It is BP Vanellus and I got it from the local home depot type store. Unfortunately it only came in 4Litre cans, so I now have enough oil to lube probably all the SL1200 in all MK versions all around Greece for the next 10 years

:-> There are some good oils out there. I think it is beneficial to re-oil the bearing every one in a while.

dimkasta
14-07-2014, 08:48
I totally agree. I am a big fan of lubrication.

I recently lubed my CD transport gears with some silicon oil and could not believe my ears...

Anyway... my next big upgrade is probably going to be the KAB fluid damper.
Andrei what do you think about the Jelco?

keiron99
14-07-2014, 12:36
I recently lubed my CD transport gears with some silicon oil and could not believe my ears...


Please try to describe?

dimkasta
14-07-2014, 13:08
Please try to describe?

A bit offtopic but you can check what I did here (http://www.thediytone.com/shigaclone-lubrication.html)

Andrei
14-07-2014, 20:58
I recently lubed my CD transport gears with some silicon oil and could not believe my ears...
Anyway... my next big upgrade is probably going to be the KAB fluid damper.
Andrei what do you think about the Jelco?

I made a mistake in that I rewired and damped my tonearm - and then bought the Jelco. So a bit of waste of time and money. The benefit of this though is that I can say the Jelco does bring an improvement in sound quality over a rewired arm. It is sufficiently good to partner a Benz Wood cartridge and Fosgate phono stage. Despite the quality they are not expensive - a little over US$500 from 2juki (an ebay seller) although you should really fork out for the aftermarket mounting collar. The downside of the Jelco is that VTA adjustment is cumbersome compared to the Technics.

Very interesting about the CD mechanism Dimmy. I never thought about doing that!

dimkasta
16-07-2014, 08:16
Well it is a cheap mecha, so I have freedom of experimentation :)

About the SL1200, yesterday I reverted to my Jelco headshell and replaced the gold tags with the silver cardas ones once again... Yep... that's the stuff :)

dimkasta
22-07-2014, 21:32
As promised, here is some more porn...

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Notice the Jelco headshell drilled to allow straight wiring from tags to RCA and the project clamp/weight. Both very nice. The feet are solid graphite, again giving excellent results with isolation. I am designing a base for the bearing out of graphite as well...

You might have also noticed that the mat seems a bit beefed up... That is because it is...

It is actually a second rubber platter top from a spare MK2 I got for parts. Mass is very nice, and sounds awesome with much deeper bass and better detail than my previous cork or plexi mats.

The only minor issue is that it is ~5,7mm thick and I had to run it on much higher VTA setting. Thankfully I was lucky to need only 3,5mm more, bringing me within the VTA's range. Oh and the clamp has no more spindle to center itself, so I have to center it myself.

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