View Full Version : Heybrook TT2 walnut plinth
Hi all. Just bought myself another TT2 to restore, with this 1 I wanted to try to fit a real wood plinth just for aesthetic reasons and I've settled on American black walnut. The new plinth is going to be 20mm thick rather than the old 1 at 12mm
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/imagejpg2_zps66229c5b.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/imagejpg2_zps66229c5b.jpg.html)
Ok here's the turntable stripped ready to have the old plinth cut off.
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/imagejpg1_zps2f497fac.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/imagejpg1_zps2f497fac.jpg.html)
The plinth has now been cut with the use of a table saw.
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/imagejpg3_zpse1d90206.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/imagejpg3_zpse1d90206.jpg.html)
My nephew is a carpenter and he's offered to plane up spindle Mould and miter the hardwood for me :)
He should be finished by tonight so I will continue to update this thread if anyone's interested.
Nice job! What are you plannng to do to re-finish the top surface?
Nice job! What are you plannng to do to re-finish the top surface?
I'm still keeping it black along with the armboard as I think it stands out more this way against the silver platter and tonearm.
My nephew has just been and delivered the plinth, he's done a brilliant job!
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/imagejpg2_zps91929686.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/imagejpg2_zps91929686.jpg.html)
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/imagejpg1_zps31a9a3c6.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/imagejpg1_zps31a9a3c6.jpg.html)
Rothchild
27-06-2014, 18:23
Nice.
I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of this come together.
Next thing will be to work on the B&W's, which IMO need to have the hollow boxes reinforced ;)
Nice.
I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of this come together.
Cheers Marc, it's a bit of fun and it keeps me busy I suppose. Also at the end of the day I'll be a lot more pleased with the looks!
Cheers!!
Next thing will be to work on the B&W's, which IMO need to have the hollow boxes reinforced ;)
No way am I opening them up! 1st I think they sound great already 2nd the wife would batter me! :steam: She bought me them as a present.
Beautifully done! You've got me thinking now. I was in my local timber merchant yesterday, they had some rather nice american white oak. Since my TT2 has the dark lid and black platter, that could make for a striking contrast. Just need to find someone like your nephew!
Are you going to leave the lower half au naturel or spray it black?
Beautifully done! You've got me thinking now. I was in my local timber merchant yesterday, they had some rather nice american white oak. Since my TT2 has the dark lid and black platter, that could make for a striking contrast. Just need to find someone like your nephew!
Are you going to leave the lower half au naturel or spray it black?
I'm leaving it natural. I'll probably finish it with Danish oil then lacquer it to hopefully a glass finish.
The Barbarian
28-06-2014, 18:19
Excellent machining. However spend a bit of time getting that top finish right as the original plywood had a tendancy to craze. Id personally finish both the top & armboard in a hard satin finish not gloss.. Gloss is satans finish
Excellent machining. However spend a bit of time getting that top finish right as the original plywood had a tendancy to craze. Id personally finish both the top & armboard in a hard satin finish not gloss.. Gloss is satans finish
You rite about the top, I've just finished striping it right back to the timber where it was so bad. Ive applied 1 coat of primer which i will be sanding this morning down and re applying another coat.
I'm a gloss black finish man myself Andre so I'm afraid no satin finish here :lol:
The Grand Wazoo
29-06-2014, 10:05
Properly finished, that is going to look beautiful. Nice job.
By the way, I'm with Andre on the matter of Beelzebub's lustre!
The Barbarian
29-06-2014, 12:09
You rite about the top, I've just finished striping it right back to the timber where it was so bad. Ive applied 1 coat of primer which i will be sanding this morning down and re applying another coat.
I'm a gloss black finish man myself Andre so I'm afraid no satin finish here :lol:
You want grain filler they use when finishing guitar bodies..or your standard Primer/filler might be ok..
Ok now the top has had 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of black. I've just sanded the top down again and have applied 2 coats of satin lacquer and I must admit Andre your advice was right thanks :o
I'm now in the process of filling the grain on the walnut so it stands out when I Danish oil it.
Picture to follow.
He should be finished by tonight so I will continue to update this thread if anyone's interested.
. . . me, me, me . . . I am ;)
Thanks Tim, I'll get some photos taken and upload them as soon as I get chance :thumbsup:
The Barbarian
11-07-2014, 17:01
:carrot:
Ok, For anyone interested I have now filled the grain with a mahogany filler to get the grain to stand out. I applied this filler and wet sanded it so as it wont colour the timber but for the stain to remain in the grain.
I've applied 2 coats of danish oil and I'm well pleased with the results. I've now glued the plinth into position using sash clamps. I'm undecided on what to do with the armboard as in spray it black or danish oil it? any thoughts??
It's going to need another few coats and a lot more filling and sanding all round yet but i thought I'd share up to where i am at the moment.
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/IMG_2622_zps7d040b3d.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/IMG_2622_zps7d040b3d.jpg.html)
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/IMG_2621_zpsd4633fe7.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/IMG_2621_zpsd4633fe7.jpg.html)
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/IMG_2623_zps607149ab.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/IMG_2623_zps607149ab.jpg.html)
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/IMG_2624_zpsfe17a2ff.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/IMG_2624_zpsfe17a2ff.jpg.html)
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/IMG_2625_zpsecd425a9.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/IMG_2625_zpsecd425a9.jpg.html)
Pete The Cat
18-07-2014, 20:23
Looking gorgeous already :goodthread:
Pete
The Barbarian
18-07-2014, 20:48
Nat:
Why have you got an open mitre joint?
Looking gorgeous already :goodthread:
Pete
Thanks Pete!
Nat:
Why have you got an open mitre joint?
Believe me Andre I tried for the life of me to get them perfect but I'm afraid every time i tightened the sash cramps they moved slightly. I'll be making sure the joints look perfect with filing and sanding and no one will ever know :( I hope anyway.
Today I finished filling sanding and Danish oiling the plinth.
I also finished the armboard today but I'm not sure if it should be black, what do you all think??
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/f044fc96-b2cd-4b69-b747-45fbb8f1adc9_zps128958bf.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/f044fc96-b2cd-4b69-b747-45fbb8f1adc9_zps128958bf.jpg.html)
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/imagejpg2_zps95a6bb7b.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/imagejpg2_zps95a6bb7b.jpg.html)
Mr Kipling
20-07-2014, 19:34
It does look nice. I'd have the armboard black (satin) as it will be a nice contrast.
What do you plan to do with the original plinth?
The Barbarian
20-07-2014, 19:58
Believe me Andre I tried for the life of me to get them perfect but I'm afraid every time i tightened the sash cramps they moved slightly. I'll be making sure the joints look perfect with filing and sanding and no one will ever know :( I hope anyway.
Something is not right then either the mitres are a fraction out or the front & back or sides are not perfectly the same length!
The satin black looks much better than gloss aswell.
I'd leave the arm-board as it is. Looks beautiful!
I'd leave the arm-board as it is. Looks beautiful!
+1 :thumbsup:
Could I also suggest changing the suspension bolts for stainless ones, especially if you're going to use an SME? Theres something very nice about the combination of satin black, walnut and stainless. The bolts are M6 socket-head cap screws, but I can't remember off the top of my head how long they are.
It does look nice. I'd have the armboard black (satin) as it will be a nice contrast.
What do you plan to do with the original plinth?
The original plinth had to be cut off to remove it so I'm afraid it's long gone.
Something is not right then either the mitres are a fraction out or the front & back or sides are not perfectly the same length!
The satin black looks much better than gloss aswell.
I'm not sure what happened but I'm quite pleased with the end results. Yes your defiantly right about the satin finish, I may be tempted in re spraying the 1 I have up for sale. It may help towards selling it.
I'd leave the arm-board as it is. Looks beautiful!
Could I also suggest changing the suspension bolts for stainless ones, especially if you're going to use an SME? Theres something very nice about the combination of satin black, walnut and stainless. The bolts are M6 socket-head cap screws, but I can't remember off the top of my head how long they are.
Thanks Shane. I like your thinking about the suspension bolts, I may look into that thanks!
Stainless steel Allen bolts ordered Shane, thanks for the idea! I'll post a pic as soon as I fit them. Cheers!
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/imagejpg1_zpsc5ab31fd.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/imagejpg1_zpsc5ab31fd.jpg.html)
Rothchild
21-07-2014, 20:54
Amazing how the wood starts to glow after a bit of treatment. Any chance of some pictures of the underside?
Amazing how the wood starts to glow after a bit of treatment. Any chance of some pictures of the underside?
It's a nice grain isn't it, I'm so pleased with the finish.
Here's a picture of the underside of the 1 I currently have up for sale, there both the same. Cheers!
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/imagejpg1_zps33bb389e.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/imagejpg1_zps33bb389e.jpg.html)
It's near finished now, just a few tiny details to fix. I've a friend who's in the plastic sign business making me a new dust cover. This should be with me by the end of the week.
Here she is so far, what's your thoughts? I'm very happy with it so far and it sounds absolutely great!
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/1f5fbe99-ea88-439d-992d-1a56a98f4404_zps711a9631.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/1f5fbe99-ea88-439d-992d-1a56a98f4404_zps711a9631.jpg.html)
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/imagejpg2_zps00bcaac0.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/imagejpg2_zps00bcaac0.jpg.html)
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/imagejpg1_zps5b876dc0.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/imagejpg1_zps5b876dc0.jpg.html)
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/imagejpg3_zps13d583b4.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/imagejpg3_zps13d583b4.jpg.html)
It's a cracker Nathan, well done chap... :youtheman:
It's a cracker Nathan, well done chap... :youtheman:
Thanks Dave! I'm very pleased, looks so much better now I feel :thumbsup:
Only one word for it - Stunning.
Good sounding decks too so best of both worlds.
Only one word for it - Stunning.
Good sounding decks too so best of both worlds.
Cheers Martin :thumbsup:
walpurgis
27-07-2014, 14:50
Very pretty. Show it to us with the lid when you get it.
Very pretty. Show it to us with the lid when you get it.
I will do Geoff. Cheers!
That looks brilliant! It's surprising how much difference the extra thickness of the surround makes. Gives the whole thing more presence, for want of a better word. I'm looking forward to seeing it with the lid on!
i liked your other one that had the sme on ....very pretty. looks a bit like a sondeck
That looks brilliant! It's surprising how much difference the extra thickness of the surround makes. Gives the whole thing more presence, for want of a better word. I'm looking forward to seeing it with the lid on!
I think so too. I'm hoping as I said that the lid will be here by the end of the week. It will only sit on the top unless I can find some brackets that will fit that is.
i liked your other one that had the sme on ....very pretty. looks a bit like a sondeck
You could always buy it from me as it's on the classified ads :)
I think so too. I'm hoping as I said that the lid will be here by the end of the week. It will only sit on the top unless I can find some brackets that will fit that is.
PS: the stainless steel Allen bolts look very nice along side the sme and platter. Thanks again for the idea.
You could always buy it from me as it's on the classified ads :)
once i shift the streamer i may well do that Nathan....have an itch for a 3rd tt...
once i shift the streamer i may well do that Nathan....have an itch for a 3rd tt...
Ok grant, may speak soon.
Idlewithnodrive
28-07-2014, 08:35
Superb work Nathan.
I love it when somebody takes the time to restore classic TT's.
No doubt a labour of love, but well worth it.
Superb work Nathan.
I love it when somebody takes the time to restore classic TT's.
No doubt a labour of love, but well worth it.
Thanks Mike! I really enjoyed restoring it to be honest. Trouble is when this is finished will i get the urge to start another :confused:
pure sound
28-07-2014, 13:45
Looks beautiful & more interesting than the original.
For anyone without your talents I do still have some original Mk1 plinths available acquired when the factory closed. Black & walnut if memory serves. Some other parts as well, springs, mats, belts etc.
Looks beautiful & more interesting than the original.
For anyone without your talents I do still have some original Mk1 plinths available acquired when the factory closed. Black & walnut if memory serves. Some other parts as well, springs, mats, belts etc.
I think so too Guy, it's so much more pleasing to the eye.
Thanks again for the felt mat, I left feedback in the feedback section for you. Cheers!
it all looks so easy....when someone else does it......that one is growing on me too.......lovely arm as well.
it all looks so easy....when someone else does it......that one is growing on me too.......lovely arm as well.
Cheers grant, I must admit I really do like the arm. I've stopped myself selling it twice now, I think I've made the right decision keeping it.
is it a mark 1 or a later version? ...i have a yearning coming on:eyebrows:
is it a mark 1 or a later version? ...i have a yearning coming on:eyebrows:
I'm sure it's a MKII didn't the first version have the half arm board?
is it a mark 1 or a later version? ...i have a yearning coming on:eyebrows:
my personal Mark list, Shane might differ:
Mark 0.9 early production = filled plinth, black platter rim, welded subchassis, long armboard, speed change via pulley
Mark 1.0 = filled plinth, silver platter rim, welded subchassis, long armboard, speed change via pulley
Mark 1.5 = filled plinth, silver platter rim, cast subchassis, long armboard, speed change via pulley
Mark 2.0 = hollow plinth, silver platter rim, cast subchassis, long armboard, speed switch on plinth
switch shape and illumination seem to have changed more than once;
obviously there have been external PSUs with a speed change switch, but they are scarce.
a Heed orbit plugged between wall and TT2 does the job just fine
Michael
my personal Mark list, Shane might differ:
Mark 0.9 early production = filled plinth, black platter rim, welded subchassis, long armboard, speed change via pulley
Mark 1.0 = filled plinth, silver platter rim, welded subchassis, long armboard, speed change via pulley
Mark 1.5 = filled plinth, silver platter rim, cast subchassis, long armboard, speed change via pulley
Mark 2.0 = hollow plinth, silver platter rim, cast subchassis, long armboard, speed switch on plinth
switch shape and illumination seem to have changed more than once;
obviously there have been external PSUs with a speed change switch, but they are scarce.
a Heed orbit plugged between wall and TT2 does the job just fine
Michael
I think mine must be MK1 then, My serial number is 221 and has the welded subchassis.
I was wondering which external PSU would be suitable for mine. I'd like to be able to adjust the speed settings without removing the platter every time. Any ideas anyone??
I can only reliably tell you what happened up to 1984, when I left Heybrook.
Parts were ordered in batches of 100, probably around every two months bertween early 82, when the first batch arrived and 84 when I departed.
The first few batches had steel chassis, the big clunky mains switch that Nathan's has, and because of QA problems with the platter castings, we were forced to spray the platters black. Also, as I've only recently remembered, the top plate of the plinth was ply rather than MDF. Oh, also the lids were very dark smoked perspex.
Now, I can't give you any sort of exact chronology, but the first changes were getiing rid of the ply top-plate and getting the platters right. That would have happened after about four or five batches, so around s/No 600. (serial numbers ran sequentially from 00101 onwards).
The next big changes would have been after about 18 months. Foremost of course was the alloy chassis, which was the most significant change of all, but before that, the big clunky mains switch was replaced by a much neater item, and Linn started supplying clear lids, so there were quite a few that went out with the new switch and lid, but still with the steel chassis.
That was the state of play when I left by which time we'd got to around 2000 units iirc. (I remember that, because Stuart and Peter offered me the choice of £1 per unit or a one-off £3000. I took the latter and was pleased when I left!). The next change was the Tim-de Paravicini-designed power supply, but I believe that was several years and about another 3000 units later, (probably around 1990) so the vast majority of TT2s out there are as when I left. By the time the power supply was introduced turntable sales generally had collapsed so I don't think more than around a thousand of these ever hit the shops.
Finally, after Heybrook was bought out by Peter Wanstall's AGI operation, the plinth was re-designed with the half-length arm board and a few blocks of chip-board glued inside a Linn-style fruit box. I don’t know if this was a cost-cutting exercise or because Greaves, the original supplier for the plinth, went bust. Possibly both. Either way, although it was pretty, I think it was probably a retrograde step, but then, I would say that, wouldn't I!
Numbers? I can only really guess but here goes:
Black Platter, Big switch, steel chassis: maybe 400-500
Silver platter 300 - 400
New switch, clear lid 300 - 400
Ally chassis 2000 - 3000
PSU, revised plinth 500 - 1000.
Now then, I’ve been looking at Nathan’s beautiful walnut version, and can’t help feeling that the anodised aluminium name plate jars a bit. A nice bit of stainless with a push-button switch and the Heybrook logo etched into it.........
Stop it.
Nice chronology Shane......I quite like the rocker switch though.
I must admit, when I left Heybrook I had an alloy chassis/clear lid version which I kept for nearly 30 years, until I gave it to my nephew because I was experimenting with slate and direct drives. I then decided that life without a TT2 was incomplete, and found one of the very first batch on Ebay, which had had virtually no use. It has the ply top, the clunky switch, a black platter and a black lid and I love it, it's as close as it can get to my original idea and it looks cool as a cool thing brooding in the corner. I reckon it sounds better than the alloy one too, although I didn't think that when we did the change originally. Bass is a little bloomier, but the rhythmic bounce is better, if you know what I mean. The only problem is that with a black Mission 774 and dark red cartridge playing a black LP on a black tuntable with a black platter and a black smoked lid in a dark corner, cueing the bloody thing's a nightmare!
I have a fancy for a 3rd tt and one of those is on the list...or maybe a thorens.....or another lenco....:doh:
I can only reliably tell you what happened up to 1984, when I left Heybrook.
Parts were ordered in batches of 100, probably around every two months bertween early 82, when the first batch arrived and 84 when I departed.
The first few batches had steel chassis, the big clunky mains switch that Nathan's has, and because of QA problems with the platter castings, we were forced to spray the platters black. Also, as I've only recently remembered, the top plate of the plinth was ply rather than MDF. Oh, also the lids were very dark smoked perspex.
Now, I can't give you any sort of exact chronology, but the first changes were getiing rid of the ply top-plate and getting the platters right. That would have happened after about four or five batches, so around s/No 600. (serial numbers ran sequentially from 00101 onwards).
The next big changes would have been after about 18 months. Foremost of course was the alloy chassis, which was the most significant change of all, but before that, the big clunky mains switch was replaced by a much neater item, and Linn started supplying clear lids, so there were quite a few that went out with the new switch and lid, but still with the steel chassis.
That was the state of play when I left by which time we'd got to around 2000 units iirc. (I remember that, because Stuart and Peter offered me the choice of £1 per unit or a one-off £3000. I took the latter and was pleased when I left!). The next change was the Tim-de Paravicini-designed power supply, but I believe that was several years and about another 3000 units later, (probably around 1990) so the vast majority of TT2s out there are as when I left. By the time the power supply was introduced turntable sales generally had collapsed so I don't think more than around a thousand of these ever hit the shops.
Finally, after Heybrook was bought out by Peter Wanstall's AGI operation, the plinth was re-designed with the half-length arm board and a few blocks of chip-board glued inside a Linn-style fruit box. I don’t know if this was a cost-cutting exercise or because Greaves, the original supplier for the plinth, went bust. Possibly both. Either way, although it was pretty, I think it was probably a retrograde step, but then, I would say that, wouldn't I!
Numbers? I can only really guess but here goes:
Black Platter, Big switch, steel chassis: maybe 400-500
Silver platter 300 - 400
New switch, clear lid 300 - 400
Ally chassis 2000 - 3000
PSU, revised plinth 500 - 1000.
Now then, I’ve been looking at Nathan’s beautiful walnut version, and can’t help feeling that the anodised aluminium name plate jars a bit. A nice bit of stainless with a push-button switch and the Heybrook logo etched into it.........
Stop it.
A very interesting read Shane and thanks for the comments!
Your right about the name plate, it would look great in stainless but like grant I also really like the rocker switch.
If anyone can etch a stainless name plate for me please or knows someone who would do this fairly cheap please get in contact! :thumbsup:
Anyway Shane stop giving me ideas! The wife going to go mental! :)
I have a fancy for a 3rd tt and one of those is on the list...or maybe a thorens.....or another lenco....:doh:
You know you want a TT2 grant :) make me an offer, go on, you know it makes sense! :whistle:
pure sound
30-07-2014, 06:26
AGI never made TT2s. Inherited some parts but never actually made any. Ditto the Heybrook electronics. I imagine the last turntables were made in the early/mid 90's when Heybrook were still in Liskeard. That would've been when the change to Mk2 occurred.
I think mine must be MK1 then, My serial number is 221 and has the welded subchassis.
I was wondering which external PSU would be suitable for mine. I'd like to be able to adjust the speed settings without removing the platter every time. Any ideas anyone??
as stated above: a Heed Orbit2 aka ISOkinetik ISOdrive works fine with my TT2.
;-)
Michael
edit and caveat: the ISOdrive seems to be identical to the Orbit1, so plug and play without modification of the TT2 is only possible with a Heed Orbit2 …
as stated above: a Heed Orbit2 aka ISOkinetik ISOdrive works fine with my TT2.
;-)
Michael
edit and caveat: the ISOdrive seems to be identical to the Orbit1, so plug and play without modification of the TT2 is only possible with a Heed Orbit2 …
Thanks Michael!
You know you want a TT2 grant :) make me an offer, go on, you know it makes sense! :whistle:
I will have a think Nathan.:)
AGI never made TT2s. Inherited some parts but never actually made any. Ditto the Heybrook electronics. I imagine the last turntables were made in the early/mid 90's when Heybrook were still in Liskeard. That would've been when the change to Mk2 occurred.
Thanks Guy. Did you join Heybrook before or after AGI?
pure sound
01-08-2014, 07:18
I joined JPW in 1996. Besides getting their real wood cabinets made in the prisons they'd also acquired a separate business making vinyl wrap cabinets one of whose customers was Heybrook. A year or two later they bought out Heeybrook and moved the cabinet making plant, warehousing and assembly lines into a custom made factory in Plymouth. AGI was just a holding company for the brands (they added another one called Sequence) and also offered OEM speaker manufacture for the likes of Denon, Monitor Audio, Gale (as sold by Richer) and others. This worked well for a couple of years until for some customers, far Eastern manufacture became more attractive. After that, there was too much factory (high overheads) and too little OEM work. The brands ended up being owned, but not really used, by Peerless India. The factory closed & the woodworking machinery & remaining stock was sold off by auction. The machinery went for a song & there were some great items among it; large cnc routers, huge cnc saw & lots more. I think people from Focal / JM Labs bought some of it.
Some input on the versioning, which is basically spot on! :)
I have had two TT2's, one early silver platter with welded chassis and the clunky rocker switch, same as on the OP's. (Also the original brownish smoked lid)
I also had a later generation which was originally delivered with the TPS power supply (you can tell by the plate, there is no switch or option to put one there) which had the clear lid but still the LDF filled chassi and long arm plate.
I liked them, didn't sound quite the same but both very good! The older one was run off of a Valhalla with great success! Which means that a Lingo would be an option, if you're feeling a little scottish?
Anyhoot, great job with the TT!
As far as I can work out, the majority of TT2s fitted with the TPS PSU were old-type plinths. The new plinths seem to be a very late change, and are pretty rare. I didn't even know they existed until Guy put pictures of his up on AoS a couple of years ago!
Well here she is with her new lid! All finished now apart from a few hinges and a new belt from Guy.
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/imagejpg1_zps8bc55003.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/imagejpg1_zps8bc55003.jpg.html)
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/imagejpg2_zps7a25149a.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/imagejpg2_zps7a25149a.jpg.html)
http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo14/nuff3rs/ce727219-55b3-4526-86f9-30356eac8f6f_zps9d9387c0.jpg (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/nuff3rs/media/ce727219-55b3-4526-86f9-30356eac8f6f_zps9d9387c0.jpg.html)
awkwardbydesign
07-08-2014, 17:44
I do like walnut, but only have an oak budget!
Gorgeous!
Isn't it. I'm very pleased.
I do like walnut, but only have an oak budget!
Thanks Richard. The timber only cost £33 delivered which I thought was quite a good price.
killie99
07-08-2014, 22:05
Thanks Richard. The timber only cost £33 delivered which I thought was quite a good price.
where from???
That is bloody superb, great job that man :D
Wow, that sure is a handsome beast (arguably one of the nicest wooden plinths I've seen)... It's precisely the sort of thing you should have, Timbo, gracing Captain Tidy towers! ;)
Marco.
where from???
Hi Stuart. I bought it from this seller on eBay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/feuillusfencing2010/m.html?item=251539124293&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
That is bloody superb, great job that man :D
Cheers Tim. Defo worth all the work.
Wow, that sure is a handsome beast (arguably one of the nicest wooden plinths I've seen)... It's precisely the sort of thing you should have, Timbo, gracing Captain Tidy towers! ;)
Marco.
Why thank you Marco! :thumbsup:
It's precisely the sort of thing you should have, Timbo, gracing Captain Tidy towers!
Indeed, as you know I love that look, so an LP12, Thorens TD150 and the Heybrook all fit the bill visually and this is a particularly fine looking example ;)
I have a shocking Planar 3 on the operating table at the moment, in bright canary yellow :eek: Should look OK though when I am finished . . . its my 'do I give vinyl a place in my system' tester project, before embarking on a full restore for the 401.
killie99
11-08-2014, 09:45
Hi Stuart. I bought it from this seller on eBay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/feuillusfencing2010/m.html?item=251539124293&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
cheers :thumbsup:
awkwardbydesign
11-08-2014, 09:59
I love that look, so an LP12, Thorens TD150 and the Heybrook all fit the bill visually...
....before embarking on a full restore for the 401.
Eh? :scratch:
Eh? :scratch:
Not arf' as confused as me Richard?
I think Marco knows what I'm on about though, as that post was more in reply to his previous post ;)
Yesh, shweety, I is in tune with the workings of yer befuddled wee brain! :D
[Namely because mine matches it in terms of daftness].
Marco.
I can only reliably tell you what happened up to 1984, when I left Heybrook.
Parts were ordered in batches of 100, probably around every two months bertween early 82, when the first batch arrived and 84 when I departed.
The first few batches had steel chassis, the big clunky mains switch that Nathan's has, and because of QA problems with the platter castings, we were forced to spray the platters black. Also, as I've only recently remembered, the top plate of the plinth was ply rather than MDF. Oh, also the lids were very dark smoked perspex.
Now, I can't give you any sort of exact chronology, but the first changes were getiing rid of the ply top-plate and getting the platters right. That would have happened after about four or five batches, so around s/No 600. (serial numbers ran sequentially from 00101 onwards).
The next big changes would have been after about 18 months. Foremost of course was the alloy chassis, which was the most significant change of all, but before that, the big clunky mains switch was replaced by a much neater item, and Linn started supplying clear lids, so there were quite a few that went out with the new switch and lid, but still with the steel chassis.
That was the state of play when I left by which time we'd got to around 2000 units iirc. (I remember that, because Stuart and Peter offered me the choice of £1 per unit or a one-off £3000. I took the latter and was pleased when I left!). The next change was the Tim-de Paravicini-designed power supply, but I believe that was several years and about another 3000 units later, (probably around 1990) so the vast majority of TT2s out there are as when I left. By the time the power supply was introduced turntable sales generally had collapsed so I don't think more than around a thousand of these ever hit the shops.
Finally, after Heybrook was bought out by Peter Wanstall's AGI operation, the plinth was re-designed with the half-length arm board and a few blocks of chip-board glued inside a Linn-style fruit box. I don’t know if this was a cost-cutting exercise or because Greaves, the original supplier for the plinth, went bust. Possibly both. Either way, although it was pretty, I think it was probably a retrograde step, but then, I would say that, wouldn't I!
Numbers? I can only really guess but here goes:
Black Platter, Big switch, steel chassis: maybe 400-500
Silver platter 300 - 400
New switch, clear lid 300 - 400
Ally chassis 2000 - 3000
PSU, revised plinth 500 - 1000.
Now then, I’ve been looking at Nathan’s beautiful walnut version, and can’t help feeling that the anodised aluminium name plate jars a bit. A nice bit of stainless with a push-button switch and the Heybrook logo etched into it.........
Stop it.
My Heybrook TT2 seems to be an early bird, with serial number 00104. It ended up in Sweden and I am the first owner. It was delivered with a Linn LVV fitted with a Goldring 920IGC. I replaced that combo with Moerch UP-4/Goldring 900IGC. Only other change is a replacement motor from Crouzet, since the original one was somewhat noisy. I have never been tempted to have any other TT. I have experimented with a Variac (about 84V seems to work best for me), and use a Philips PE 1400 Mains stabilizing filter (industrial surplus). This is configured to reduce transients from incoming mains. A regular PSU should work well but this is what I have (and had it for free).
Tried to find a proper smiley but came up empty. Sorry...
ListeningEar
28-10-2014, 09:40
I have a TT2 too which I have been thinking of rebuilding, would your nephew be willing to machine another set of plinth components? My TT2 is a one of the last built so it's got the textured metal top rather than the wood so I would just keep that as standard. It's really only the plinth and the electronic components I am thinking of working on (electronic component parts have enough age on them now to make it a no brainer to upgrade).
Craig
That's a nice looking arm, never heard of them before but I am a bit of a newbie to be honest. Have you any photos to share?
My Heybrook TT2 seems to be an early bird, with serial number 00104. It ended up in Sweden and I am the first owner. It was delivered with a Linn LVV fitted with a Goldring 920IGC. I replaced that combo with Moerch UP-4/Goldring 900IGC. Only other change is a replacement motor from Crouzet, since the original one was somewhat noisy. I have never been tempted to have any other TT. I have experimented with a Variac (about 84V seems to work best for me), and use a Philips PE 1400 Mains stabilizing filter (industrial surplus). This is configured to reduce transients from incoming mains. A regular PSU should work well but this is what I have (and had it for free).
Tried to find a proper smiley but came up empty. Sorry...
I'm afraid he won't be able to machine you any timber as his boss wasn't to please on him doing mine.
Can you also share some pictures?
I have a TT2 too which I have been thinking of rebuilding, would your nephew be willing to machine another set of plinth components? My TT2 is a one of the last built so it's got the textured metal top rather than the wood so I would just keep that as standard. It's really only the plinth and the electronic components I am thinking of working on (electronic component parts have enough age on them now to make it a no brainer to upgrade).
Craig
My Heybrook TT2 seems to be an early bird, with serial number 00104. It ended up in Sweden and I am the first owner. It was delivered with a Linn LVV fitted with a Goldring 920IGC. I replaced that combo with Moerch UP-4/Goldring 900IGC. Only other change is a replacement motor from Crouzet, since the original one was somewhat noisy. I have never been tempted to have any other TT. I have experimented with a Variac (about 84V seems to work best for me), and use a Philips PE 1400 Mains stabilizing filter (industrial surplus). This is configured to reduce transients from incoming mains. A regular PSU should work well but this is what I have (and had it for free).
Tried to find a proper smiley but came up empty. Sorry...
Wow! The fourth one ever built! Hope I put it together OK, we hadn't had much practice at that stage...
I wonder how it ended up in Sweden? Love to see some pictures with that arm.
shanenuff,
I only have an old Instamatic from the sixties, and no film, so can't provide photos right now. I will ask a friend further down the road. Might take some time before he shows up though.
I bought the TT2 from Erik Andersson when he had his company Dala-Ljud. IIRC he sourced them from the Swedish importer Ljudtema. Eventually he left retail and formed the business Audion with Peter Q. I borrowed loads of stuff from him, mainly loudspeakers and amplifiers. Taught me that price and performance not neccessarily correlated and also that end result was depending on combination of the chain.
I enjoy experimenting with small tweaks rather than shifting hardware. This is both interesting and cheap. The part of the spindle where it rests on the ball in my bearing is not perfect. I have tried a PTFE 1,5mm disc as a thrust plate between ball and spindle. Initially this cleans up the sound in a very attractive way. Eventually the disc becomes compressed/worn and the contact surface between disc and ball becomes larger and the resulting sound too laid back. Interesting experiment though.
I have measured the mechanical precision in my turntable and am really impressed. I have worked as a turner and know what it takes to end up with such super precision.
Right now I have my TT on this:
http://www.ikea.com/se/sv/images/products/aptitlig-slaktarblock__0244579_PE383993_S4.JPG
It is standing on three oak cones, turned by a friend. Between the cones and the TT, I have ceramic nozzles that I found on the floor at work. Cheap but working. Working very well too.
We were very lucky to find a couple of lads with a little engineering shop nearby who did all the machining for us. It's largely down to them that the TT2 was so consistently successful. They're still in business under the name of ASAP Engineering, although I think their sons run the business now. If you want the end of the spindle ground and re-finished, they may be able to help.
https://plus.google.com/110597474025782172596/about?gl=uk&hl=en
Thank you for the information, Shane. They were really skilled. My spindle is just cut with a pretty (or not so pretty) raw end. Seems to be a flat surface at the contact point so it works anyway. Could have had it beautified at work but...
Have revisited another tweak today. Read about the Nagaoka mat and remembered my phenol laminate 'mat' http://www.siamat.info/downloads/SW-LAMINA-PFCC-201-ENG.pdf Removed my trusty felt mat and put the 'hi tech' on instead. Remarkable! I then went back to my former set-up with the three oak cones resting on a thick (about 15mm) copper plate (with bitumen mat on the bottom side). I have removed the bottom of the TT and the innards (board) is resting on these three points. The result is better than using the ceramic nozzles. Reason for this might be anything or everything. Re-adjusting a number of parameters in the process makes it impossible to tell the exact reason for the successful result. Anyhow; both Count Basie and Oscar Peterson visited me, and so did Dexys Midnight Runners and a few other people. It was very intimate.
Should I have upgraded to another turntable instead...?
Should I have upgraded to another turntable instead...?
Absolutely not! But then I would say that, wouldn't I...
Early spindles like yours (and mine, number 174 IIRC) were rough-cut with a flat ground on the end prior to grinding the whole shaft-lenght. This left a rough-cut chamfer at the bottom which was fuctionally perfectly OK but not very pretty. Later ones were ground to a hemisphere before the flat was ground, so looked a bit prettier but performance was identical.
Interesting info about the mat. I've stuck with the original felt, but will experiment one of these days. Any chance of some photos of your TT2? I'd love to see it with that mat and arm!
Interesting info about the mat. I've stuck with the original felt, but will experiment one of these days. Any chance of some photos of your TT2? I'd love to see it with that mat and arm!
The mat is a diy project. Found a piece of phenol laminate and having read about its acoustcal properties I decided to try it. Found out that the felt mat was killing too much of the music. Decades ago I bought a heavy French rubber mat, Audioref, that killed all of the music on my TT. I'm sure it was aimed for light platter TT:s. I use an old Nagaoka record clamp (lightweight) to press down mat and record. This is needed since my mat isn't totally flat without it.
Next step would be to experiment with different thicknesses of mat. The one I use right now is very lightweight and I reckon the suspension won't notice. Difference in weight of records is much greater.
Regarding pictures; I,m working on it but the the priority is low. Unfortunately. Sorry about that.
Following nuff's example I rubbed in some Danish oil into the walnut on my TT while playing Count Basie. I was quite heavy handed without any disturbance being heard through the speakers. I might need another of these excellent players. There is one floating in the Bay from Italy but I would want a somewhat more local pick up...
Some information about UP-4 might be found here:http://www.sorasound.com/products/moerch/ and elsewhere. I have the 'red' arm tube and my tracking force is about 0,95g.
I hope that the OP tells me if he thinks I'm hi-jacking the thread.
ListeningEar
03-11-2014, 14:53
I'm afraid he won't be able to machine you any timber as his boss wasn't to please on him doing mine.
Can you also share some pictures?
Hi there,
Please see picture of my TT2, it's pretty much standard, the only thing I have replaced is the speed control switch as the original died a few years back. The bearing has recently been treated to an Audio Origami bearing oil supercharge, the Rega RB300 tonearm has also just had an IsoKinetik Litz rewire. Cartridge is a Denon DL-103 (also have a Denon DL-110 and a Lyra Clavis D.C.).
Craig
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