Mk2 arm vs Mk5 arm?

[K3vin]

There seems to be quite a price difference between the (brand new) mk2 arm and the mk5 arms on ebay- £50 odd vs £90 odd, is there much of a difference between the arms, sonically?

[CageyH]

I believe that the mk5 has better cables fitted to it.

[Andrei]

The Mk5G has better quality internal wiring.

[RobbieGong]

The Mk5G has better quality internal wiring.

Yep ! and gold plated phono rca's :)

[.mus]

Do you mean just the arms or the complete tonearm assembly?

If the latter, the most obvious difference between the MK2 and MK5 is the increased range of antiskate options with the MK5, which runs to 6, rather than the MK2's 3.

However - from the examples that I've seen (which have all been DJ decks) - there seems to be a small difference between them with respect to sturdiness - the MK5 being sturdier than the MK2. With the MK2s that I've used, locking the VTA causes a small horizontal shift in the location of the base of the arm, and the base can wobble a little between these locations if the VTA isn't locked hard. I've never experienced this on a MK5. I have a spare MK2 arm here and should be removing one of my MK5 arms to upgrade soon, so when I have them both out I'll see if I can figure out what this difference comes down to.

[MikeMusic]

Are there better alternatives at a similar price ?

[K3vin]

Are there better alternatives at a similar price ?

Good question Mike, and something I'm wrestling with. I know I could just go out and buy a great arm like the Jelco, but I want to try and keep the budget theme going with my deck, so I'm looking for something cheap to try out (along with one of Steve's arm boards) or just stick with a new OEM arm, rewired, that way I know the bearings are good.

I can buy one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRO-JECT-8-6-S-TONEARM-/351065448270?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiF i_Turntables&hash=item51bd219f4e for about the same money as a new OEM arm, from Henley Designs, and it has a Linn fitting too.

Not so sure about it with my DL 103 tho'.

If anyone has another suggestion (other than a Rega) I'd love to hear it.

[MikeMusic]

Hopefully you get answers here on that

The Project is black so it must sound good !
:)

[.mus]

In that situation, I would probably go for a new MK5 arm - it's not a bad arm per se, and it can be modified - rewired (as you know), but also people have experimented with stuffing/wrapping it to dampen unwanted resonance, apparently to good effect. And the stock cable can be improved if you can handle some light soldering.

I would certainly go for a Technics arm over the one that you link to, but I like the VTA on the fly and the option to easily switch carts :)

[K3vin]

I'm toying with the idea of integrating the stock arm with a Speedy Steve arm mount (if at all possible) by asking him to turn up just the outer mounting section in ebony.

I'd like to know more about successful damping on the stock arm if you can point me in the right direction- and yes, I'm pretty proficient with the old soldering iron (I scratch build engine wiring harnesses for racecars).

[CageyH]

I thought about this, but I am not sure of the benefit due to the lack of material.
If you decide to go ahead with it, I will be really interested to hear your thoughts, as this could make my arm even better.

[K3vin]

I think I'll go with it, but I want to hear back from Steve first, if it's something he can do. I only want to do the armboard once right now so If he doesn't think a board can be made for the stock arm I'll go for something else and get a board for that, given that, by the time I get a new OEM arm, decent head shell, arm cables and damping I could probably buy a used Jelco etc...

My preferd choice would be the modified mk5 OEM, an Ortofon 2M black with its 'plug and play' head shell, rewired, and see what I end up with- it may well be a fools errand but I've no doubt they'll all have reasonable resale value if it doesn't pan out.

[MikeMusic]

I think I'll go with it, but I want to hear back from Steve first, if it's something he can do. I only want to do the armboard once right now so If he doesn't think a board can be made for the stock arm I'll go for something else and get a board for that, given that, by the time I get a new OEM arm, decent head shell, arm cables and damping I could probably buy a used Jelco etc...

My preferd choice would be the modified mk5 OEM, an Ortofon 2M black with its 'plug and play' head shell, rewired, and see what I end up with- it may well be a fools errand but I've no doubt they'll all have reasonable resale value if it doesn't pan out.

I started with thinking about armboards.
Realised I would upgrade the Jelco sooner or later so postponed it.
Up came the FR and then came the armboard !

Jelco is now available !

[.mus]

I'd like to know more about successful damping on the stock arm if you can point me in the right direction- and yes, I'm pretty proficient with the old soldering iron (I scratch build engine wiring harnesses for racecars).

Here's a bunch of threads:

http://www.hifivision.com/phono-turntables/23902-success-technics-sl1200mkii-tonearm-rewire-damping.html

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=318840

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=356870

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=541792

Also, I have a pdf copy of the MK5 service manual, which might be useful if you want to see what the component parts of the arm are and how they fit together; let me know if you'd like it and I can send you a copy.

[K3vin]

Thanks for that info.

Seems it's worth trying the heatshrink as it's simple and cheap enough. I have thought of turning up a Titanium arm tube for mine (well a new OEM arm) and seeing if there are any benefits- a textured powder coat over the top will add a small amount of damping to it too.

The PDF of the manual would be a real help- thanks.

[.mus]

No worries - you have a PM.