Removing 'Sticky' Nextel from Systemdek?

[Yomanze]

Hi

If manufacturers realised that 20 years later we'd have the cool Nextel 'suede' finish turn flat, marked and sticky to the touch, would they have used it?

Does anyone have any experience in removing this stuff? I haven't tried yet, but have read about issues, and would like to hear from you guys of any experience here.

Reason being I have a new 10" Helius Scorpio 4 tonearm doing nothing and a 'sticky' Systemdek III that I'd like a better finish on. I also need a new armboard cut & new cover, so am looking into my first restoration project. :)

Thanks,

Neil

[istari_knight]

I used paint stripper gel to remove it from a Cyrus amp - It just fell off after 10 minutes... Though what effect it would have on what's the deck made of... MDF ? I wouldnt like to guess :D

[walpurgis]

I had an original Systemdek (the big heavy bugger) with exactly this problem. I didn't try to deal with it though, but as I recall, the base is a composite moulding, so presumably the Nextel would sand off, leaving a bare surface that could be refinished to one's preferences.

[Yomanze]

I had an original Systemdek (the big heavy bugger) with exactly this problem. I didn't try to deal with it though, but as I recall, the base is a composite moulding, so presumably the Nextel would sand off, leaving a bare surface that could be refinished to one's preferences.

Yes original Systemdek & III are very similar unlike the rest of the 'deks... Thanks for your comments it is indeed composite, so sanding seems like a good simple solution.

[Yomanze]

I used paint stripper gel to remove it from a Cyrus amp - It just fell off after 10 minutes... Though what effect it would have on what's the deck made of... MDF ? I wouldnt like to guess :D

Thanks I did remember that the Cyrus I & II had the Nextel paint. Cheers Geoff and James exactly why I posted here!

[Mr Kipling]

On the Martin Logan forum scraping it off and then going over it with rubbing alchohol is said to be effective.

[Yomanze]

Think am going to go down the meths and rag route, then sand the chassis, primer and matt black finish. Need a new armboard so will send my existing one to someone. Thanks again guys & Andr'e for his PM. :)

[Mr Kipling]

Apparently, it's supposed to be somewhat toxic.

[walpurgis]

What, the meths?

You'd hardly drink it would you and rubber gloves can be used. No probs otherwise that I'm aware of, I've used it for a lifetime without any issues and I only use gloves when french polishing (meths based). 'Cos it craps your hands up!

[Mr Kipling]

No. Nextel. It's said elswhere that's why it stopped being used in consumer products.

[CornishPasty]

Strip the deck down and remove the mdf top plate before stripping the Nextel finish with meths.

[Kember]

And if it all goes wrong, try this to cover it up..?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g60bN6-cgmc

:stalks:

[Yomanze]

There's a classic car mechanics just down the road thinking to ask them to do a gloss black job. With the black and chrome Helius will look much better.

[CornishPasty]

I was going to suggest gloss black. Looks lovely if you get the prep right. I used a satin black mottled finish paint on mine to hide some imperfections in a less than perfect prep. During the rebuild I found a disastrous amount of slack in the bearing which I couldn't fix due to the design of the bearing so the whole thing is in a box somewhere in my workshop. Maybe one day...

[Si74]

The plinth is basically an aluminium 'frame'
I wouldn't recommend sanding the mdf as you will strip whatever was used to seal it, it then becomes a total pig to refinish.
I speak from experience. If the surface is broken and it gets wet it will be even more of a headache.
I used B&Qs own brand paint stripper, much cheaper and gentler than nitromors.
First one I did, I polished the alumin/alloy bits to a mirror finish with a dremel. The toplate had to be done with
stonefleck paint as I broken the skin on the mdf.
The next one was a pain but eventually came out rather well.

[Si74]

I was going to suggest gloss black. Looks lovely if you get the prep right. I used a satin black mottled finish paint on mine to hide some imperfections in a less than perfect prep. During the rebuild I found a disastrous amount of slack in the bearing which I couldn't fix due to the design of the bearing so the whole thing is in a box somewhere in my workshop. Maybe one day...

All the bearings appear slack as they were designed so the oil is 'pumped, up the spiral groove. Sure if you fill it with EP80/90? gear box oil, it will work fine.

[walpurgis]

All the bearings appear slack as they were designed so the oil is 'pumped, up the spiral groove. Sure if you fill it with EP80/90? gear box oil, it will work fine.

Worn bearings were not uncommon on the original Systemdek, I don't know if subsequent models had the same, but if I recall it featured two piece bush/bearing inserts. Suitable repacement bushes should not be too hard to find. I'd personally favour phospor bronze types working against the steel spindle. The old ones should be drawn out and new ones pressed in, then reamed to a fairly snug clearance fit in my opinion.