For Hamish

[The Barbarian]

If you still have your B&O '1500' speed change issue, im just sorting one of mine out. The problem is the old Grease. You need to remove the Idler Wheel Mechanism fitted to the motor mounting plate.

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w425/ELPFAN1968/1500008.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/ELPFAN1968/media/1500008.jpg.html)

{Here's the removed motor}

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w425/ELPFAN1968/1500013.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/ELPFAN1968/media/1500013.jpg.html)

{Here's the Idler Wheel Mech removed..What you need to do is remove the sprung wire that you see underneith the motor around the plasic cam wheel, all that then holds the Idler mech onto the Motor mounting is a simple 'E Clip'}

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w425/ELPFAN1968/1500014.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/ELPFAN1968/media/1500014.jpg.html)

{You can see the old hard grease around the hole at the top right corner, clean all the plate while it's off re-apply new grease,not a lot.. i use thin molybdenum grease}

Service everything whilst this motor is out & also clean the belt wheel with Isopropyl alcohol.. ''Do not get grease on the idler wheel'' btw i always use Rubber Rejuvenator on old idler wheel tyres..

Also fit a new belt while yer at it. To get the platter off you need to remove the screw from the side of the bearing housing, while this is out clean the end of the spindle, do the usual TT bearing service but remember these are not like your normal TT bearing housings, they are open so dont go filling it full of oil, just a touch of lubrication in the bottom of the well....The spindle has a very sharp point.You'll see when you get it out.

[DSJR]

You're a far braver man than I sir :lol: :respect:

I freed my 3000 off with a servisol type aerosol and then thoroughly cleaned the idler. After two years, it's still ok.

By the way Andre and Hamish (and Adam Beobloke :)) I seemed to be experiencing some wow at times over Christmas when I brought the 3000 back into use. which I put down to an unequally stretched belt. These brown belts can stretch over time, ESPECIALLY if they've had many years just sat there unused. There's a newly made 'black' replacement on eBay which I bought and used. I thought it better and when the deck went back into the loft, this belt was removed to prevent stretching in storage.

B&O were a funny company back then. The basic designs can be so good from this era, yet some engineering decisions baffle me frankly. Philips were the same, making well performing video machines once I remember, yet with the most ghastly noisy 'gritty' mechs you could imagine :scratch:

I've discovered it may be possible to carefully remove the socket from the cartridge end of the tonearm. if so, I wonder if rewiring may be possible as the sound from my SP12 cartridge is blander than via the headshell mounted cartridge I have? I've already done the exit cables.

[The Barbarian]

Hi Dave

Na these are easy to do, had far more complicaed jobs in the past :eyebrows:

Never leave the idler engaged on a speed step with the 'Beogram 1000' units, always step it down when out of use for periods,peace of mind for yer Idler Wheel..

Yes those black belts are fine i got one im gonna fit once sorted the service out

The internal tonearm wire has been shreaded on this particular 'ST/L' arm so needs re-wiring, the end socket does come out no worries..

[DSJR]

My 3000 leaves the idler in constant touch with the pulley (I'd forgotten how different the Beogram 1000 series was on the speed change). The 1000 used to be stupidly cheap as motors can seize up too for the usual dried lube reasons, but like the rather pleasant Beomaster 1000, prices are rising now :(

[The Barbarian]

Here goes all serviced..Works like a dream :eyebrows:

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w425/ELPFAN1968/Serviced01.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/ELPFAN1968/media/Serviced01.jpg.html)

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w425/ELPFAN1968/Serviced02.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/ELPFAN1968/media/Serviced02.jpg.html)