How to easily install an IEC inlet connector?

[Stubies]

Is there an easy way to install one of these onto the back panel of your kit?
http://www.mains-cables-r-us.co.uk/292-home_default/furutech-inlet-gold.jpg

If yes, i would like to know how.

Here comes the moan:

Cutting a rectangular hole in sheetmetal does not look easy, so i ask, why not design the connector to fit in a round hole? it would be easy enough, - and then the hole could be drilled.

For example, this connector would nicely fit through a round hole:
http://p.globalsources.com/IMAGES/PDT/B1043923522/IEC-C6-Inlet-Connectors.jpg

[Rare Bird]

Makes no odds to the manufacturer the hole is punched out regardless of it being round or rectangular!

Why not fit a cable gland with captive lead all you would require is an Hand reamer..

[Stubies]

yes, from the manufacture's point of view.

however we buy a lot of aftermarket stuff. e.g. there is a long list of aftermarket plugs on MCRU, all designed to be hand wired by DIY consumers. So it would stand to reason that an aftermarket IEC inlet plug would be designed for easier installation too. (not that i have seen any)

Nonetheless, curious to hear how to install one (even if it is not consumer friendly).




Makes no odds to the manufacturer the hole is punched out regardless of it being round or rectangular! The old Bulgin 3 pin chassis you used to get on the Quad 3 series, Ferrograph 'F307' etc were round.

[Andrew B]

Bulgin is supposed to be an electrically superior connection. According to those who know about such things

[Stubies]

Ah, you are right of course.... im making life more complicated than necessary.

To replace an OEM cable with a cable gland (i had to look that up!), then just feed the cable in the same way, prehaps with a bigger gland...
Nice idea!



Why not fit a cable gland with captive lead all you would require is an Hand reamer..

[YNWaN]

I've fitted a number of these to aluminium chassis'. You can either use a Dremel with a fine grinding disk to cut it out or you can drill a hole and use a coping saw (finish with a file).

[Marco]

Hi Stuart,

Since you're going to the bother of doing this, why not simply drill a hole in the chassis, the correct diameter for the mains lead in question, and hard-wire the cable directly to the PCB, instead of involving the use of an IEC socket at all?

Unless you're planning on experimenting with different mains leads in future, there's no need for an IEC socket, and furthermore, they're significantly sonically detrimental - really quite nasty things (what one would call a 'necessary evil').

Removing that connection, and hard-wiring instead with a quality mains lead, will provide you with a nice upgrade and give much better results than introducing the use of a generic quality IEC socket, together with a bog standard 'kettle lead'.

Therefore, if you're not planning in the future on 'arsing about' with mains leads, my advice would be to choose the best one you can afford (and like the sound of - something with nice thick solid-copper conductors and proper shielding), hard-wire it into position, and forget about it! :exactly:

Marco.

[Stubies]

Im convinced!

I wont be arsing about with leads, and why put in extra work to make your kit worse! Much easier to direct solder the new cable.

Thanks for the guidance! I was a bit slow getting to the idea, now i see the light! :)


Hi Stuart,

Since you're going to the bother of doing this, why not simply drill a hole in the chassis, the correct diameter for the mains lead in question, and hard-wire the cable directly to the PCB, instead of involving the use of an IEC socket at all?

Unless you're planning on experimenting with different mains leads in future, there's no need for an IEC socket, and furthermore, they're significantly sonically detrimental - really quite nasty things (what one would call a 'necessary evil').

Removing that connection, and hard-wiring instead with a quality mains lead, will provide you with a nice upgrade and give much better results than introducing the use of a generic quality IEC socket, together with a bog standard 'kettle lead'.

Therefore, if you're not planning in the future on 'arsing about' with mains leads, my advice would be to choose the best one you can afford (and like the sound of - something with nice thick solid-copper conductors and proper shielding), hard-wire it into position, and forget about it! :exactly:

Marco.

[The Black Adder]

Hi Stuart,

Since you're going to the bother of doing this, why not simply drill a hole in the chassis, the correct diameter for the mains lead in question, and hard-wire the cable directly to the PCB, instead of involving the use of an IEC socket at all?

Unless you're planning on experimenting with different mains leads in future, there's no need for an IEC socket, and furthermore, they're significantly sonically detrimental - really quite nasty things (what one would call a 'necessary evil').

Removing that connection, and hard-wiring instead with a quality mains lead, will provide you with a nice upgrade and give much better results than introducing the use of a generic quality IEC socket, together with a bog standard 'kettle lead'.

Therefore, if you're not planning in the future on 'arsing about' with mains leads, my advice would be to choose the best one you can afford (and like the sound of - something with nice thick solid-copper conductors and proper shielding), hard-wire it into position, and forget about it! :exactly:

Marco.

Oh yesh!

[Thing Fish]

Hi Stuart,

Since you're going to the bother of doing this, why not simply drill a hole in the chassis, the correct diameter for the mains lead in question, and hard-wire the cable directly to the PCB, instead of involving the use of an IEC socket at all?

Unless you're planning on experimenting with different mains leads in future, there's no need for an IEC socket, and furthermore, they're significantly sonically detrimental - really quite nasty things (what one would call a 'necessary evil').

Removing that connection, and hard-wiring instead with a quality mains lead, will provide you with a nice upgrade and give much better results than introducing the use of a generic quality IEC socket, together with a bog standard 'kettle lead'.

Therefore, if you're not planning in the future on 'arsing about' with mains leads, my advice would be to choose the best one you can afford (and like the sound of - something with nice thick solid-copper conductors and proper shielding), hard-wire it into position, and forget about it! :exactly:

Marco.

Danmed fine idea...:)

[YNWaN]

Well I'm doing an electronics project at the moment (phono stage) and it is definitely going to have fused and switched IEC sockets :).

[Marco]

Cool... No reason not to have a fuse there, if you want, but you can defo lose the IEC socket and hard-wire the mains lead to the PCB: think how Naim 3 Series kit used to be supplied... ;)

Marco.

[YNWaN]

Yeah, I could do that, but losing the ability to change the length (not any other aspects) of the mains cable is too much of an inconvenience for me.

[Thing Fish]

Yeah, I could do that, but losing the ability to change the length (not any other aspects) of the mains cable is too much of an inconvenience for me.


Apparently length has nothing to do with it. It's what you do with it that matters...:eyebrows:

[Stubies]

:rfl:

Apparently length has nothing to do with it. It's what you do with it that matters...:eyebrows: