Rewiring SL-1200 Tonearm

[6L6]

I recently received the parts necessary for re-wiring the Tonearm on my SL-1200Mk2. The internal wire will be replaced by Cardas tonearm wire and the external wire will be an assembly from KAB utilizing their PCB and Cardas Litz coax. This will be a visual guide to that process.

The guide is in post #5 (http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?26652-Rewiring-SL-1200-Tonearm&p=462165#post462165)

:)

[Wakefield Turntables]

Good for you mate looking forward to your tutorial.

[Qwin]

Used the same wire on one of my arms - no PCB or interconnects just a continuous run straight through to my Phono stage.
Just stripped back the coax for the section inside the arm and connected the arm/headshell ground to the coax where it exited the arm and the coax then went to my phono ground post. Worked well.

:popcorn:

[Wakefield Turntables]

I have a very similar setup on my technoarm and it is worth the effort, my philosophy has always been less is more, get rid of what's needed.

[6L6]

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1841_zpse17731b1.jpg
This is what I started with, a KAB rewire kit (the prepared tonearm wire, fishing wire and damping) and a replacement interconnect with the KAB Technics circuit board. This cable is not on their webpage, it's an all-litz coax of very low capacitance. Call or email Kevin, he will happily make you one.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1842_zps0dec85e5.jpg
I storongly suggest getting the wire kit, the wire itself is prepared - it's cut to length, tinned (which is no small feat on litz wire, and worth the price of admission) and it's covered in a graphite coating to help counteract the triboelectric effect of teflon-covered wire.


http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1843_zpsb11e7b45.jpg
Remove the platter, rest the turntable on something soft or properly supportive, and remove the base. Take a photo of all the screws near their holes, so you can reference the photo when you re-assemble the table.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1844_zps28f7ff38.jpg
This is the bottom of the arm, the screws holding the plastic block (strain relief) need to be removed, and the strain relief as well.
Remove the metal lid.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1845_zps686a7dbe.jpg
And here is the stock wiring. De-solder the small wires from the PCB.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1846_zps99992f35.jpg
Remove the screws from the PCB, and lift gently. The zip-tie needs to be cut, as the ground wire is not going to be removed from the turntable.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1847_zps4ffce51d.jpg
Arrange the groundwire out of the way, as it's going to be connected to the table throughout.

You can see here that I got a bit ahead of myself, not removing the resin sub-plinth yet. It's actually easier if you do that first. :)

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1848_zpsbd1f56e9.jpg
Sub-plinth removed.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1849_zps2d77d96c.jpg
The 3 silver screws around the perimeter of the arm hold it in. Remove those and it will easily slide out.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1850_zps5ca47b6c.jpg
The arm assembly removed.


http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1851_zps226db17c.jpg
Remove these screws.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1852_zps3f5030a0.jpg
Pull out the headshell collar, but don't pull out the wires!

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1853_zpseb58f907.jpg
De-solder the wires, and place the insulators aside.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1855_zps641a9126.jpg
I attached (soldered) the new wire to the old. Gently, without forcing anything, you can fish the new wire through the whole assembly using the old to pull it through.


http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1854_zpsf7fdb6b8.jpg
When the new wire is through, unsolder the old wire and discard. (Ignore the color difference from the previous photo.)

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1856_zps80d56365.jpg
Once all the wires are through replace the insulators,

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1857_zpscb107f63.jpg
And re-install the collar. This is very fiddly to solder.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1858_zpsba2dc234.jpg
Cut a few strips of the Cotton and gently stuff down the armtube.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1859_zpsbf03aa14.jpg
The wires need to be re-attached on the base.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1860_zpsb73ca8b0.jpg
Here are all the wires, and the old ground wire. That, like the ground that goes out with the RCA leads remains stock.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1861_zpsc3da59d2.jpg
Lay the groundlead back in it's place, the bend of the wire will naturally find it's home again...

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1862_zps2c31f049.jpg
Attach the PCB in place of the old.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1863_zps35013924.jpg
Attach the new wires to the new board.

This is a great time to check continuity with your meter. If it's all good, start to re-assemble the table.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1864_zpsf115aafb.jpg
I needed to improvise a strain relief, as the new cable will not fit through the original plastic block.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/IMG_1865_zps024a6fa9.jpg
And it's done!

[twotone]

Fantastic, thanks.

Tony

[The Grand Wazoo]

What a wonderful and comprehensive guide, Jim.
This is one for 'The Knowledge', I think!

[6L6]

I have had a bit of time to listen to the new wiring - and I am very happy I made the change.

The best way to describe the improvement is 'Cleaner'. The entire signal now seems more intact. No single thing is particularly better or emphasized, it's all better. Highly recommended.

[Spectral Morn]

Beautifully done and illustrated :)


Regards Neil

[6L6]

Update - the phono cable I used is now a catalog item at KABUSA.com

Look for "Low capacitance all Litz coax" I believe the will be an extra charge for mounting it to the new PCB. Ask Kevin.

[Audio Al]

Nice clear tutorial

Many thanks for taking the time to do this and take all the photos

Great Job

:)

[DonGraft]

My two cents here
As I spoke with 6L6 and KAB Kevin, the arm gimbal is held to the VTA base with only 2 screws. So, I proceded that way without the need of taking out the entire arm assembly.
The pictures by 6L6 are very good enough, so I didn't feel there was a need of retaking them, just the 2 screws part.
https://whatimg.com/i/m0q40o_thumb.jpg (https://whatimg.com/viewer.php?file=m0q40o.jpg)
https://whatimg.com/i/ff3h2i_thumb.jpg (https://whatimg.com/viewer.php?file=ff3h2i.jpg)

[Marco]

Your images aren't showing, Jaime....

Marco.

[Stratmangler]

Your images aren't showing, Jaime....

Marco.

No problems seeing them here :)

[Marco]

What browser are you using, daftee? I've tried AOL, IE and Firefox and nowt appears but two white boxes with red crosses on them....

Marco.

[Andrei]

I don't see the pics in either Chrome or Explorer.
@ Jim or anyone else who can help:
I have had a go with this rewire this weekend but only half successful. I have done the Cardas RCA part ('table to phonostage) but not the tonearm wire itself. I was unable to remove the headshell collar. I did note the two small screws were very tight. Having eventually removed the screws the headshell collar would not come out. I tried coaxing with zero success. With considerable force I got it to budge but gave up after half an hour as I thought the amount of force needed would probably damage the arm. Have I overlooked something obvious, or is it indeed very tight, or perhaps an incantation with incense and a sprinkling of chicken blood would help.

[Stratmangler]

What browser are you using, daftee? I've tried AOL, IE and Firefox and nowt appears but two white boxes with red crosses on them....

Marco.

Firefox.

[Marco]

You must have a special computer, then :)

I wish folk would just use Imageshack or Photobucket, instead of these obscure photohosting sites, which often give unpredictable results!

Marco.

[Stratmangler]

You must have a special computer, then :)

I wish folk would just use Imageshack or Photobucket, instead of these obscure photohosting sites, which often give unpredictable results!

Marco.

Nothing special at this end.
The photos are hosted on Photobucket, so your issues lie elsewhere.

[Marco]

The photos Jaime posted were hosted on "whatimg.com", dude, which I've never heard of. Dunno where you got Photobucket from - and it's not only me who's having issues...

Marco.

[Stratmangler]

The photos Jaime posted were hosted on "whatimg.com", dude, which I've never heard of. Dunno where you got Photobucket from - and it's not only me who's having issues...

Marco.

I thought you were referring to 6L6's piccies.
I didn't even know that someone else had attempted to post images, and by the look of things they've since been removed.

[Marco]

LOL - you are a daftee!! :eyebrows:

Is 6L6 called Jaime? I'm referring to the images posted by 'DonGraft' on post #12 (which don't show up) :)

Marco.

[Stratmangler]

:)

[6L6]

Can you see them now?

https://whatimg.com/i/ff3h2i.jpg

https://whatimg.com/i/m0q40o.jpg

[Tarzan]

No.

[DonGraft]

Sorry guys!
Here they are
http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac65/Dongraft/2013-10-26154549_zps68ddabf9.jpg (http://s886.photobucket.com/user/Dongraft/media/2013-10-26154549_zps68ddabf9.jpg.html)

http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac65/Dongraft/2013-10-26154448_zps6d23b2ad.jpg (http://s886.photobucket.com/user/Dongraft/media/2013-10-26154448_zps6d23b2ad.jpg.html)

[Marco]

Can you see them now?

https://whatimg.com/i/ff3h2i.jpg

https://whatimg.com/i/m0q40o.jpg

No! This 'whatimg.com' thing is obviously not very UK-friendly... ;)

Marco.

[Marco]

Sorry guys!
Here they are
http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac65/Dongraft/2013-10-26154549_zps68ddabf9.jpg (http://s886.photobucket.com/user/Dongraft/media/2013-10-26154549_zps68ddabf9.jpg.html)

http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac65/Dongraft/2013-10-26154448_zps6d23b2ad.jpg (http://s886.photobucket.com/user/Dongraft/media/2013-10-26154448_zps6d23b2ad.jpg.html)

Now we're cooking! The wonders of using Photobucket instead, eh? ;)

Looks great - very neat work, Jaime :)

Marco.

[6L6]

Although this arm has been removed from my deck and replaced with a Graham, I do have a plan for it... Stay tuned. :D

[dimkasta]

I like plans that include extra arms :) I have an extra one myself :)

[6L6]

There is a manufacturer of arrows, and they have an aluminum-clad carbon fiber. I'll be modifying this gimbal to take a new wand made of that. And may perhaps make it 10.5" or 12", depending on if I get a new TT project... :) :) :)

[dimkasta]

Hehe...

Something like that? :)

12907

[6L6]

Yes, that's the basic idea. :) And it will need a custom cartridge mount as well.

Ken has done something similar - http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/TechArm_HTML/TechArm_Thumbs.html so all the hard work and pitfalls have been worked out once already. :)