Comparing Class T Amps

[MartinT]

I've just bought my second Mini-T amp, this one a model SA-S3 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Class-T-Amp-25Wx2-Amplifier-Tripath-TA2021-SMSL-S-/160867018349?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:GB:1123) from SMSL based on the Tripath TA-2021 chip. It accepts 14V DC and pushes out 13.5Wpc into 8 ohms.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Wfsg24JrL._SL500_SS500_.jpg

The reason I bought it was to upgrade from my model SA-S1, based on the Tripath TA-2020 (they look identical) and performing desktop computer duties. Even driving the nearfield speakers by my PC monitor, I felt the lack of power far too readily and decided that a little more power wouldn't go amiss. Upgrading the voltage rail to 14V would give it a little more headroom, so I've ordered a 14V 5A SMPS (my original SA-S1 based on the TA-2020 can only accept 12V).

Now to my observation: even powered from the same 12V adapter, I think this TA-2021 based amp sounds better: a little fuller in the bass, slightly more focussed soundstage and even finer detail presentation. Have others compared these different Tripath chips and reached similar or even different conclusions? It seems that not all Mini-T amps are built equal.

[brian2957]

Interesting Martin . Bearing in mind its limitations are you recommending this amp ? Had an Amptastic mini t and really did like it.

[MartinT]

For nearfield use like I do here, running from my PC via a Caiman DAC into a pair of Fostex based speakers, the Mini-T is nigh-on perfect. Small, efficient, generates no heat and sounds far more transparent than it has any right to. For about £25 plus a PSU, I really can't see how it could be beaten.

[brian2957]

Thanks Martin .

[Covenant]

For nearfield computer use a Lepai 2020A does me. I got it because I wanted to try the 2020 chip and I must say it sounds good. For under £20 you cannot go wrong.

[Ali Tait]

Temple Audio are the best I've heard. They use Analogue Devices chip though.

[bobbasrah]

For nearfield use like I do here, running from my PC via a Caiman DAC into a pair of Fostex based speakers, the Mini-T is nigh-on perfect. Small, efficient, generates no heat and sounds far more transparent than it has any right to. For about £25 plus a PSU, I really can't see how it could be beaten.

What is the type of Fostex speakers Martin ?
Had been looking at the 126En as a possible kit build as a second system, but not sure whether a T would be enough.

[MartinT]

Fostex FF125WK.

http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?p=417400#post417400

[bobbasrah]

Cheers Martin, I forgot, now recollect reading that, case from Moldova, very nice.... Some further research needed my end I think...

[icehockeyboy]

For nearfield computer use a Lepai 2020A does me. I got it because I wanted to try the 2020 chip and I must say it sounds good. For under £20 you cannot go wrong.

I've just bought one for a silly sub £12, albeit minus a PSU.

[MartinT]

Any comments on TA-2020 versus 2021?

Also, any observations on whether a big linear PSU sounds better than, say, a 5A switched mode PSU?

[Covenant]

I've just bought one for a silly sub £12, albeit minus a PSU.

Wow, I thought I did well for £17! Don't bother with the tone controls, good job there is a defeat button.

[Paul Hynes]

Hi Martin,

A big linear PSU like the SR5 or the SR7 does work very well with class T amps like the DIY Paradise Charlise and Virtue Audio amps that use these chips, as the supply line rejection is not usually that good on these designs. I see no reason why your amp should not see a benefit also. If you have time for a DIY project I can send you a high power PR3iEHD-12/14 linear regulator for R&D purposes.

Regards,
Paul

[MartinT]

Thanks, Paul. I know of old that your PSUs are excellent for low power duties and indeed have PH supplies for my Technics SL-1210, Logitech Touch and Beresford Bushmaster, all of which significantly enhance SQ over the original PSU.

I would be very interested in evaluating a PR3i 14V module and reporting back here on its performance. Shall we continue by PM?

[Ali Tait]

A good linear supply made all the difference to the Golds Martin, well worth doing IMHO.

[wee tee cee]

maplins linear psu made a noticeable improvement to my original bantum..... couldn't tell you which one though....

[MartinT]

Ah, that's good to hear chaps. I'll start planning a brute 14.5V 5A linear PSU build, then (the max recommended operating conditions for the TA-2021).

[John]

I use a good linear power supply really makes a difference but so does using a really good pre too on the Bantam I am now at the point where it be hard to go back to anything else

[Tarzan]

Ah, that's good to hear chaps. I'll start planning a brute 14.5V 5A linear PSU build, then (the max recommended operating conditions for the TA-2021).


:popcorn:

Would be interested in your findings Martin, for what it is worth, l have three T-amps and the PSU is so important and they do make a difference- big time, my battery powered Virtue Audio Sensation M451 sounds quite awesome frankly...:)

[MartinT]

I'm running the Mini-T on a 12V SMPS right now. I have a 14V one arriving tomorrow. Soon I'll start building a 14.5V linear PSU. I'll be able to compare and report on them in due course.

[Tarzan]

I'm running the Mini-T on a 12V SMPS right now. I have a 14V one arriving tomorrow. Soon I'll start building a 14.5V linear PSU. I'll be able to compare and report on them in due course.

Cool, would be interested in your findings Martin:)

[smithy]

I run my 2020 amp off a power supply from Thunderpole (CB radio site)

[wee tee cee]

forgot to mention....the original bantum sounds great in conjunction with the battery pack that was recommended for the bush master dac-in conjunction with an active pre. hooked it up last night with the maplins psu vn 10l with a red m in the right hand corner lovely presentation with spendors!!!!

just plumbed in the battery pack that was powering the bantum in the garage with the aid of a fiio head amp.....lovely!!!!

dont know how long it will last in the main set up but it is very pleasant indeed!

[icehockeyboy]

Bloody hell!
I was awaiting the delivery of the PSU so that I could try the sub £12 Lepai LP 2020A+' and my neighbour just brought it over.

I am absolutely zonked that for less than £18 I have an amazing sounding amp, which will be more than adequate for its duties in the conservatory!

Having tried many devices at Currys and PCW that were around £100 minimum, this amp has to be the steal of the century! :eek:

I think I might invest in a Belkin Bluetooth device now to save wiring the iPad to it, totalling around £41 for a Bluetooth enabled amp. Amazing!!!!!!!

[bobbasrah]

I have an application for one in the work gaff, and can either bring a decent one in or get a Lepai here (place is swarming with chinese everything including cars - ever seen genuine stainless steel rust?).
PSUs are not a problem, but figuring which speaker I can DIY here that would suit it is, as would have to bring the parts in.
Anybody got any experience on that as don't fancy humungous Sachikos or similar... I know Martin's fostex impressed him, but any others have recommendations they might share ?

[Covenant]

Bloody hell!
I was awaiting the delivery of the PSU so that I could try the sub £12 Lepai LP 2020A+' and my neighbour just brought it over.

I am absolutely zonked that for less than £18 I have an amazing sounding amp, which will be more than adequate for its duties in the conservatory!

Having tried many devices at Currys and PCW that were around £100 minimum, this amp has to be the steal of the century! :eek:

I think I might invest in a Belkin Bluetooth device now to save wiring the iPad to it, totalling around £41 for a Bluetooth enabled amp. Amazing!!!!!!!

Fancy making it even better? :)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/223389-lp-2020a-mod-thread.html

[icehockeyboy]

Bloody hell!
I was awaiting the delivery of the PSU so that I could try the sub £12 Lepai LP 2020A+' and my neighbour just brought it over.

I am absolutely zonked that for less than £18 I have an amazing sounding amp, which will be more than adequate for its duties in the conservatory!

Having tried many devices at Currys and PCW that were around £100 minimum, this amp has to be the steal of the century! :eek:

I think I might invest in a Belkin Bluetooth device now to save wiring the iPad to it, totalling around £41 for a Bluetooth enabled amp. Amazing!!!!!!!


Fancy making it even better? :)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/223389-lp-2020a-mod-thread.html

Nah! But thanks anyway, it is more than good for its role as background din dins music in the conservatory, which is used as our dining room.

Now, why on earth the trouble suggested a music system for in there when the Ushers are just a few feet away I will never fathom, but there we are, and it is almost invisible where I've placed it too, so double bonus! :lol:

[Covenant]

Hmmm a hifi in the dining room......:hmm:

[Alex_UK]

Perfect for the dining room (where I use mine - and used to be hidden behind a plate, with a 3.5mm to RCA lead - just plug in ipod or laptop/DAC as needed - simples! :) )

[MartinT]

I bought a cheap 14V 5A switched mode power supply in order to test my assumption that the TA-2021 will sound better when run at 14V compared with the TA-2020 Mini-T amp that runs at 12V. One of these from eBay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180688387650?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Moving from the 12V to 14V adapter, there is a definite improvement in focus and clarity and a reduction in congestion when the wick is turned up and things get busy. Bass definition is also improved and there is just a little more kick. This when used with my small Fostex-based PC system. I would say that where the TA-2020 running at 12V was pushing against the limits of comfortable running in nearfield listening, the TA-2021 running at 14V has sufficient headroom for anything I want to play.

Very pleasing, and has confirmed that building a proper linear PSU is well worth the effort. I shall be building a 14.5V PSU based on Paul Hynes' PR3iEHD module when it arrives. More when I have all the parts.

[brian2957]

Can you please provide a link to the amp you are using with this power supply Martin . Ta .

[MartinT]

It's this exact one, Brian:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160867018349?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Ignore the listing spec that says DC 9-12V. The amp actually has 14V printed on the back and the TA-2021 chip is spec'd for 14.5V normal operation.

[brian2957]

Thanks Martin .

[chrism]

It's this exact one, Brian:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160867018349?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Ignore the listing spec that says DC 9-12V. The amp actually has 14V printed on the back and the TA-2021 chip is spec'd for 14.5V normal operation.

Hi Martin,

I bought the TA-2020 from the same seller and that is good as well. Use it for my tele into a pair of Gale Gold Monitors.

Regards

[DSJR]

You're a b*gger you are MartinT. I've saved the ebay pages and have plans :mad:.... The Thunderpole linear? power suplies look good too - the 5-7A one?

[MartinT]

:)

Yes, the Thunderpoles do look the business, no idea how they would sound but they seem promising.

[MartinT]

The 14.5V linear power supply is built! Project photos here (http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?p=432557#post432557).

[DSJR]

You could have bought a proper amp for all that outlay :lol:

[MartinT]

Nah - that wasn't the object of the exercise! In any case, having heard it now, I'm not so sure. Nearfield listening like that exposes an awful lot and demands very high quality at low-ish power, not something most budget amps deliver.

[DSJR]

Just teasing :) Well done for your efforts :respect:

[Mr. C]

A properly implemented digital switching amplifier can sound exceptionally good, those with on board output devices seem to work best (especially with switch times around the 25n/s mark) but are some what limited in terms of power around 70Wrms before the THD goes south.

Ultra clean and stiff regulated power supplies are the key here along with the separate dedicated 5Vdc rail to the control unit.

They are a couple of design about that regularly show a Dartzeel the way home.

A few years ago I built a unit capable of swinging very high current(in excess of 90 amps) again around the 24n/s region, yet to find an amplifier I would change it for that doesn't cost the price of small garage in London!

[John]

Yes that the magic of D Class done well

[Covenant]

There are still lot's of people who don't like them, I wonder if it's because they have an expensive amp and can't accept something so cheap can be almost as good?
Is the new Amptastic out yet?

[Alex_UK]

There are still lot's of people who don't like them, I wonder if it's because they have an expensive amp and can't accept something so cheap can be almost as good?

In my experience Jerry, it is the match with the speakers that is important - not sure whether it is impedence or sensitivity that makes the difference, but whilst I loved the (original) Amptastic Mini-T with my Acoustic Energy Aegis Evo 3 floorstanders, it falls flat on its face (IMHO) with both pairs of Wharfedale Diamonds I have, as they seem to like a lot more juice up 'em. For me, then, I think they are great - if matched correctly, and nothing to do with "snobbery" over the cost.

[freefallrob]

Yeah the speaker match is critical.

I used a Trends TA10.1 (I think) into some little Mission M30i speakers and the result was amazing....

However other combinations have been 'meh'.

I once tried another t-amp with some speakers I had at the time (can't remember) and it was also a total fail...

I've been toying with the idea of a Topping TP60 as it has two inputs, plenty of power and decent power supply.

Rob.

[Tarzan]

Yup, there is l believe a snobbery regarding the cheap T-amps, people should be scared.


Also Rob the Topping TP60 does look interesting and powerful:)

[John]

The T60 is nice (has a good bit of clout) but it lacks transparency of something like the Amptastic or Bantam

[Clive]

I'm someone who's had a bit of a love and not in love relationship with T-amps. I wouldn't go as far as love/hate though. T-amps to me seem picky about speakers, hardly surprising for the low powered ones....also as suggested Martin et al, the power supply is very important. Get things a little wrong I find you end up with either a very "easy" sound or an edgy one. In-between those two extremes is where we all want to be. I'm currently using an Arjen TA2020 amp and comparing it to my Bantam Gold. Both are performing excellently. They are powered from an Ordo linear supply running at 14V.

[John]

What pre are you using Clive

[Clive]

What pre are you using Clive
It's the AVC-1 which I'm writing the review for currently. It's a fully remote controlled version of the Salge AVCs you use John. The AVCs attenuate a little more than yours, the steps are from -54db to +7db in 1db steps so there is very fine control. The sound is almost identical to yours.

[John]

Sounds a bit more precise

[MartinT]

All I can say is that the TA-2021 Mini-T amp and Fostex FF125WK speakers are a very good match indeed. The speakers are easy to drive since they are a full-range driver with no crossover and I suspect that this is the trick with T-Amps: easy-to-drive speakers. It's part of the reason that I went down the Fostex route and not the LS3/5a route.

[Ali Tait]

Yep, been my experience too, they need easy to drive speakers.

[Clive]

I fully agree about the need for easy to drive speakers but in my system the speakers are just about the only item that has been consistent. Matching the room and other components somehow seems more critical than with "normal" amps. It would be easy to say that's because the T amps are hi res, I don't think it's as simple as that. Maybe it's a phase characteristic that some other components mustn't double up on.

[MartinT]

Interesting! There may be something very revealing and/or interacting with other components or the room going on. I'm certainly getting the idea that they're very transparent with high efficiency simple speakers.

[Clive]

I may have stumbled across the reason for my occasional discomfort with the Bantam Gold and Arjen amps in my system. The Arjen btw is TA2020 based whereas the Bantam Gold is an AD chip. It seems both devices include an opamp which inverts the signal. It looks like both these amps invert the signal. Normally this wouldn't be a huge issue but there are two factors in my case:

1) I do seem to be a person who is sensitive to absolute phase, at least in my own, well known to myself room and system - however this is the minor point.

2) the major point is that I run active bass in my system, my bass and mid have been running out of phase with these amps (not my valve though), given a fairly shallow rolloff between mid and bass I've had some cancellation with my upper bass.

I now understand why I was getting a slightly thin sound. Swapping the cables over at the chip amp outputs is all I needed to do.

[MartinT]

Nice discovery, Clive, and very satisfying I should think.

[Clive]

Nice discovery, Clive, and very satisfying I should think.
Absolutely Martin, it's great to have a simple workaround and such a clear reason/explanation for my original concern about the sound I was hearing.

[Ali Tait]

Most interesting Clive, I wonder if that's why I don't really miss the valves when I swap back to using two Golds?

[Clive]

Most interesting Clive, I wonder if that's why I don't really miss the valves when I swap back to using two Golds?
It could be a factor Ali, I've been doing the same, comparing apples with pears to a certain extent.

[Ali Tait]

I will haul the valves out and have a go when I get a chance.

[Clive]

In my case it's made the T-amp sound better rather than the valve sound better.....

[Ali Tait]

I'll see if I notice any difference.

[Katch]

Just thought I'd join and say my Arjen Helder TA2020 MKIII T-Amp driving a pair of Eltax Monitor IIIs really does a good job.

I mainly use it for nearfeild but it performs equally well in a small room. Soundstage is broad and very well defined. Bass is a little boomy but I really do mean a little bit - I think it could be tightened up by changing some caps out.

Overall this setup brings out details in music that I usually associate with headphone monitoring and it is remarkably easy to listen to for extened periods of time. If you were to blind test it vs my much more expensive B&W / Marantz setup you'd be hard pushed to tell the difference at casual listening levels in a small room. In fact only that slight lack of tightness in the bass would give it away.

Arjen's boards are a really nice option when looking at T-Amps and he's just started selling the MKI prebuilt and ready to go for a little over £130 delivered. Comes fully remote controlled with optional bluetooth module - nice little setup.

[Clive]

I must admit to wondering about changing the 2.2uF input capacitors too.

[Ali Tait]

I don't it's possible at the moment to beat a decent switching amp in the SPPV stakes, the quality on offer is amazing given the cost.

[John]

I altered the phase to adjust from the Bantam inverted phase, I had to cut back on the bass a bit as it was now being a bit to over powering, other differences are subtle in my system. I not touched phase on the sub amp.

[Clive]

Inverting phase between bass and mid can help sometimes when there's too much overlap but keeping the same phase should be more ideal with fewer side effects. In my case it seems to have mattered that I had bass and mid out of phase.

[Katch]

I must admit to wondering about changing the 2.2uF input capacitors too.


Been searching for this for a while and finally found it again;

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachments/class-d/199244d1291346269-class-d-amp-photo-gallery-dsc00014.jpg

He's uprated the buffer cap to 10000uf from 6800uf and swapped out the input caps for 250v 5.6uf @ 1% from the original 400v 2.2uf @ 3% caps.

I've tried to find those Dayton caps before but they don't seem to be available in Europe - best I could find are the Mundorf polyprops.

[Clive]

Been searching for this for a while and finally found it again;

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachments/class-d/199244d1291346269-class-d-amp-photo-gallery-dsc00014.jpg

He's uprated the buffer cap to 10000uf from 6800uf and swapped out the input caps for 250v 5.6uf @ 1% from the original 400v 2.2uf @ 3% caps.

I've tried to find those Dayton caps before but they don't seem to be available in Europe - best I could find are the Mundorf polyprops.
I see the pic, though I had to log into diyaudio:)

Is that the latest version or a special tweak? Good 5.6uF polyprops will cost several times the price of the amp!

[Clive]

I'm trying to understand the 5.6uF caps. Maybe that's the only value he could get cheaply for some reason? 5.6uF works out at 1.5Hz, the Tripath standard 2.2uF is about 4Hz. Frankly in my system I expect 1uF would be fine.

[Katch]

I see the pic, though I had to log into diyaudio:)

Is that the latest version or a special tweak? Good 5.6uF polyprops will cost several times the price of the amp!

That is a DIY Audio member's mod;

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/87913-class-d-amp-photo-gallery-34.html#post2385639

that's a link to the post. Arjen is still using those red Audiophiler caps.

[Clive]

That is a DIY Audio member's mod;

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/87913-class-d-amp-photo-gallery-34.html#post2385639

that's a link to the post. Arjen is still using those red Audiophiler caps.
Thanks, now I understand. Audiophiler are Mundorf, the low end of of their range but pretty good sounding. I'm not convinced changing value of the 2.2uF caps is worth doing, as for the buffer cap, mines only 4,700uF, I remember Arjen increasing this previously from a lower value. It should make some sort of difference.

[John]

When I tried the Arjen in my system it was very much love and hate. With the world Fusion its was stunning with guitar driven rock it was unlistenable

[Clive]

Now that I'd improved the T-amps in my system I had one further issue to understand. I kept swapping between the 4 power amps I have, I needed to get to the bottom of why my views were oscillating.

What I've found is that the Arjen sounds dynamic at any volume setting but in common with other TA2020 amps I've used it needs to be matched with other kit that's at least neutral or preferably a just a trace warm sounding. This is why people often say a valve preamp is a great match.

With the Bantam Gold, which uses a different chip, I found the sound was excellent at what I would call normal listening levels. This is quite loud and is for "critical listening" but not uncomfortably loud or pin you to the wall loud. Here's the BUT....but when I have the music on lower, such as when I'm working I find the sound is dead, totally flat. I know that John uses the Bantam Gold on it's high gain setting. I find this helps, it does add a little spice to the sound. My conclusion though that the amp needs to be playing past a certain power level before it comes on song. My speakers have a sensitivity of 100db/m, John's I think are 95db/m, this requires him to run the amps harder so it's playing in its sweetspot. Our mutual friend who has the same speakers as myself is fine with the amp but his room is about 2.5 times the volume of mine so again he runs the amp harder. Normally with chip amps you need to ensure you don't use too inefficient speakers, it seems that too sensitive speakers can be an issue too. Oh well, I'll just have to play my music loud.

[John]

I tend to like listening at louder volumes than most people I agree for the Batam to sound good it needs to be pushing out otherwise it is a bit flat

[Covenant]

I've just bought my second Mini-T amp, this one a model SA-S3 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Class-T-Amp-25Wx2-Amplifier-Tripath-TA2021-SMSL-S-/160867018349?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:GB:1123) from SMSL based on the Tripath TA-2021 chip. It accepts 14V DC and pushes out 13.5Wpc into 8 ohms.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Wfsg24JrL._SL500_SS500_.jpg

The reason I bought it was to upgrade from my model SA-S1, based on the Tripath TA-2020 (they look identical) and performing desktop computer duties. Even driving the nearfield speakers by my PC monitor, I felt the lack of power far too readily and decided that a little more power wouldn't go amiss. Upgrading the voltage rail to 14V would give it a little more headroom, so I've ordered a 14V 5A SMPS (my original SA-S1 based on the TA-2020 can only accept 12V).

Now to my observation: even powered from the same 12V adapter, I think this TA-2021 based amp sounds better: a little fuller in the bass, slightly more focussed soundstage and even finer detail presentation. Have others compared these different Tripath chips and reached similar or even different conclusions? It seems that not all Mini-T amps are built equal.

I have been thinking about this and today ordered an SA-S1. It's all your fault Martin! :)
I will try it for a while in comparison with the Lepai then start thinking about a better power supply.

[MartinT]

They're great fun to play with, Jerry, and won't break the bank.

[Covenant]

I got that wrong Martin. It was the SMSL SA-S3 I ordered (black finish). I want to see what the extra power does as I suspect my speakers need a bit more headroom.

[MartinT]

You will need to feed it 14V, Jerry, to yield the extra power.

[Covenant]

Hmm yes, I have a variable supply and a Ripple Eater board however I have fried the toroidal transformer so will have to get a new one. All fun and games though.

[The Black Adder]

I wouldn't mind seeing what one of these thins can do, look interesting. Has anyone got one they can loan me for a few weeks or maybe buy one?

[Covenant]

I wouldn't mind seeing what one of these thins can do, look interesting. Has anyone got one they can loan me for a few weeks or maybe buy one?

If you can hang on until my new one arrives Joe, you can have my old one for a tenner plus P &P. ;)

[The Black Adder]

Sounds good Jerry... How long do you think it will be?

[Covenant]

P.M sent.

[Xapito]

So...what's the recommended T-Amp to get nowadays?

[MartinT]

So...what's the recommended T-Amp to get nowadays?

See post #1.

[Xapito]

Thanks, managed to snap one from the classified's room, will leave some feedback when I get. Does the 14v 5amp psu makes an audible difference?

It's 1st test will be with some DM1's :lol: so a tough one for starters!

[Fi-Wi]

Have you even tried reading this thread? :eyebrows:

[Xapito]

Yep, all posts, twice :D Just a bit suspicious considering it's RRP :ner:

[Covenant]

Getting a bit worried about the SMSL-SA S3 I ordered last month. T'was posted from hong kong on 26th April and hasn't turned up yet. How long did yours take Martin?

[Covenant]

The SMSL-SA S3 arrived yesterday :)
Out of the box it sounds excellent and has a nicely focused soundstage with a nice crisp presentation-very pleased. It's amazing that a box not much bigger than 20 fags can sound so good. I like the fact that the red 'on' light and blue volume knob light are subdued and not the usual laser beam.
I was planning to build a 14v linear supply but I wonder if I am wasting my time. One of the main reasons is to reduce interference but the amp will sit on top of a tower computer with lots of smps (scanner, display, router etc) within a metre or so.
A 13.8v 5 amp bench supply may be a more economical solution.:scratch:

[MartinT]

The SMSL-SA S3 definitely works best from a 14V supply. Whether you want to go the whole way and build a Paul Hynes PSU is down to you, but certainly a 13.8V CB style linear PSU should sound better than the SMPS 'charger' style PSUs.

[Mysteryman]

I have read through this thread - and very informative it is too! - and on the basis of comments have ordered an SA-S3 is TRIPATH Class T TA2021B amplifier.

I am a convert to the theory that the power supply can have a big influence on the sound/performance of hi-fi components and am happy to spend a bit to partner the amp with a suitable PSU.

First things first, although I am reasonably practical and can wield a soldering iron, I think that building one myself is not an option.......unless it comes in a complete kit and has good instructions!

The thread touches on various options....linear, switched, CB Thunderpole, etc........, but, I would welcome suggestions.

Would this one at Maplins (http://www.maplin.co.uk/13.8v-regulated-mains-power-units-231)be a contender?

Quite happy to spend up to £50......but, if there is something that will 'knock it out of water' for up to £100 then I would stretch to that. Also, if someone can suggest something that is less than this and does a cracking job then I would love top hear about that too.

Thoughts? :eyebrows:

[bobbasrah]

Suggest you look at the Temple Audio thread Richard, where similar is confirmed, although I think the 7A version was suggested.;)
The beauty of these units is that you probably couldn't buy the case+tranny+switch+etc parts for the money, and if you want to tweak it by refining later you can do so... Pretty hard to blow out a 7A tranny with protection...:cool:

[Mysteryman]

Thanks, Bob. Have had a read through all 10 pages of that thread and it did, indeed, suggest the Maplin one as a good option. I have ordered the 7A version and the only possible issue might be noise/hum, so, I'll just have to keep my fingers crossed it is a quiet one.

Will report back when I have amp and PSU.

Ah, I've just realised I will need a bit of wire to connect the 2 together!!!!! Can anyone tell me the spec of the plug that fits into the amp and, even better, where I could get one from?


Suggest you look at the Temple Audio thread Richard, where similar is confirmed, although I think the 7A version was suggested.;)
The beauty of these units is that you probably couldn't buy the case+tranny+switch+etc parts for the money, and if you want to tweak it by refining later you can do so... Pretty hard to blow out a 7A tranny with protection...:cool:

[brian2957]

Richard , I'm using 2 of these in my system and they're very quiet indeed. I'm not sure which DC plug the SMSL uses but the cable can be connected to the PSU using bare wire connected to the post or connected using 4mm banana plugs .
You could cut the cable off an old PSU with appropriate plug fitted and connect to the Maplins PSU , that's what I did.

[Mysteryman]

Brian, thanks - that's reassuring.

The problem I have is that the amp comes with no PSU at all!!!1 So, I am still wondering where to get a suitable plug to connect to the amp from.

Suggestions welcome!


Richard , I'm using 2 of these in my system and they're very quiet indeed. I'm not sure which DC plug the SMSL uses but the cable can be connected to the PSU using bare wire connected to the post or connected using 4mm banana plugs .
You could cut the cable off an old PSU with appropriate plug fitted and connect to the Maplins PSU , that's what I did.

[Ali Tait]

Maplin is probably the quickest, unless you don't mind waiting for the post.

[Ali Tait]

..or, do you have any old mobile phone chargers with a suitable connector?

[Mysteryman]

Can anyone confirm size of plug......is it 5.5mm outer diameter and 2.5mm inner?


Maplin is probably the quickest, unless you don't mind waiting for the post.

[brian2957]

Yup , if you find an old charger with a suitable plug you could cut the cable off. I have some 2.1mm and 2.5mm DC plugs which I can give you if you PM me your address . You'll have to solder the cables on mind.
These http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-DC-Power-Plug-2-1-x-5-5mm-Jack-Connector-9mm-Long-1-EXTRA-FREE-/181035713146?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Suppl ies_ET&hash=item2a2691c27a

or these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-DC-Power-Plug-2-5-x-5-5mm-Jack-Connector-9mm-Long-/181204369147?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Suppl ies_ET&hash=item2a309f3efb

[Ali Tait]

Yep, at least according to the supply they link to on ebay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-5A-Power-Adapter-Supply-Switch-Converter-Charger-for-Security-CCTV-Camera-/110762898789?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch% 2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D11076 2898789%26_rdc%3D1&nma=true&si=1SsWj%252Bv2neZcpzF4CkAkU5%252BYAWc%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

[Mysteryman]

Right, thanks for all replies and suggestions, which came in while I was firkling around in garage looking through box of chargers/adapters.

I have found a couple with 5.5mm plug on and will be able to snip off the wire and use one of those - job done!!!!

The wire is only flimsy - like bell wire - does that matter or would I be better getting a plug and using something a bit thicker?

[brian2957]

I used a cable from an old PSU in the first instance and bought some plugs and made up my own cable later . It's a Bantam Gold I have though , so not sure which DC plug you need for the T amp.

[Ali Tait]

Right, thanks for all replies and suggestions, which came in while I was firkling around in garage looking through box of chargers/adapters.

I have found a couple with 5.5mm plug on and will be able to snip off the wire and use one of those - job done!!!!

The wire is only flimsy - like bell wire - does that matter or would I be better getting a plug and using something a bit thicker?

What is the output in amps of the charger you took the lead from?

[Mysteryman]

Err, 95mA!!!!!

I have now taken up Brian's offer of a plug and will make up a lead using some decent cable!

Final question (until the next one!).......

Does the positive from the PSU go to the centre of the plug?


What is the output in amps of the charger you took the lead from?

[Ali Tait]

Yes, centre is positive (it almost always is). A good idea to make your own lead, that offcut may have been too small to carry the required current.

[Mysteryman]

Many thanks....over and out!



Yes, centre is positive (it almost always is). A good idea to make your own lead, that offcut may have been too small to carry the required current.

[MartinT]

Err, 95mA!!!!!

That's enough to fire the amp up and test that all is working, but it will run out of puff very quickly with such a small maximum current output.

Maplin do a small 2A switched mode wall-wart charger of around 12V output, I seem to recall.