View Full Version : Mod your Beresford 7520
Yes, that is what I figured, I would just unsolder the leg instead of clipping it then I can reverse the mod if need be.
To note, I also seen the DIL socket pic and thought that was a great idea for reversing the mod or trying tou other types in this circuit position. Great stuff.
RoboCopper
26-04-2010, 20:38
Hi,
While I am waiting for my LM4562NA I had some spares AD8066 which is not compatible for Beresford unless you have SOIC adapter. I got some adapter for AD8066 chip and after hard work with the solder I do like the sound which is coming out of chip.
Open, spacious, organic, plenty of highs, warm, although maybe I would not suggested to open systems, there is slight hiss or hum.
That is the reason I would like to purchase factory made AD8066 soldered to this adapter which is compatible to Beresford.
Anybody knows the online shop which sell that?
On ebay there is none.
Thank you.
RoboCopper
26-04-2010, 20:48
Hi,
In the last month I ordered LM4562NA from ebay.
But the item was not working properly, there was a sound distortion in treble especially when listening vocal classical female recordings.
Luckily, I got refund from seller.
Few questions:
1. Shall I mention the name of that seller where I got this half working chip?
2. I am looking to buy LM4562NA from ebay but from seller which definitely sells stock which should work.
Can somebody check this link and suggest me reputable seller?
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?LH_PrefLoc=2&_nkw=LM4562NA&_fln=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m283
To me the best could be: this one (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LM4562NA-Dual-HiFi-Audio-OpAmp-AUTHENTIC-LM4562-DIP-8_W0QQitemZ150425826540QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Defau ltDomain_2?hash=item230613f4ec) ?
As the other chips which letter start with JR did not work properly.
Should it start with ER like others?
Can somebody suggest me which one I should go for?
I prefer to purchase on ebay, but any other reputable place on the net is fine.
Thank you
Rob
I got some of my chips from farnell. Free delivery, and you can be more sure you aren't buying a fake. LM4562NA chips should be under 5 quid each.
Hi Guys. Please help me avoid having to read 150 pages!!!!
My 7520 runs standard supplied PSU. What is the best upgraded PSU??? Can be shop bought or DIY.
Thanks
Butuz
Hi,
In the last month I ordered LM4562NA from ebay.
But the item was not working properly, there was a sound distortion in treble especially when listening vocal classical female recordings.
Luckily, I got refund from seller.
Few questions:
1. Shall I mention the name of that seller where I got this half working chip?
2. I am looking to buy LM4562NA from ebay but from seller which definitely sells stock which should work.
Can somebody check this link and suggest me reputable seller?
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?LH_PrefLoc=2&_nkw=LM4562NA&_fln=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m283
To me the best could be: this one (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LM4562NA-Dual-HiFi-Audio-OpAmp-AUTHENTIC-LM4562-DIP-8_W0QQitemZ150425826540QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Defau ltDomain_2?hash=item230613f4ec) ?
As the other chips which letter start with JR did not work properly.
Should it start with ER like others?
Can somebody suggest me which one I should go for?
I prefer to purchase on ebay, but any other reputable place on the net is fine.
Thank you
Rob
I bought my LM4562NAs and OPA2132 from digi key in the US;
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&WT.z_homepage_link=hp_go_button&KeyWords=LM4562NA&x=28&y=17
Be sure to click the change country button on the very top right of the website.
StanleyB
27-04-2010, 07:41
I have added the Caiman power supply as an accessory on my website for those who have modified their TC-7520 and want to take advantage of the extra benefits the Caiman power supply offers. After lengthy testing of the Caiman PSU with the TC-7520, my beta testers have reported no problems, but significant SQ improvements.
The Caiman power supply won't benefit the TC-7520 with NE5532 opamps that much. But with LM4562 and THS4032 (i.e the opamps I have tried), the result is definitely one of the best and cheapest upgrades you can try. The usual money back guarantee applies if you can't hear any difference.
Fantastic cheers Stan. I got my 7520 second hand of this forum and it came supplied with several op amps for me to try including LM4562.
Butuz
I have added the Caiman power supply as an accessory on my website for those who have modified their TC-7520 and want to take advantage of the extra benefits the Caiman power supply offers. After lengthy testing of the Caiman PSU with the TC-7520, my beta testers have reported no problems, but significant SQ improvements.
The Caiman power supply won't benefit the TC-7520 with NE5532 opamps that much. But with LM4562 and THS4032 (i.e the opamps I have tried), the result is definitely one of the best and cheapest upgrades you can try. The usual money back guarantee applies if you can't hear any difference.
Agreed! it improved both line outs and also the headphone output for me, you'd have to spend much more in time and expense to better the improvement it brings
Hi,
While I am waiting for my LM4562NA I had some spares AD8066 which is not compatible for Beresford unless you have SOIC adapter. I got some adapter for AD8066 chip and after hard work with the solder I do like the sound which is coming out of chip.
Open, spacious, organic, plenty of highs, warm, although maybe I would not suggested to open systems, there is slight hiss or hum.
That is the reason I would like to purchase factory made AD8066 soldered to this adapter which is compatible to Beresford.
Anybody knows the online shop which sell that?
On ebay there is none.
Thank you.
Be careful with the AD8066 used in this dac, I found it quite touchy and measured some stability issues , it sometimes behaved and sometimes it didn't.
High level hiss and hum could be the sign of it going unstable
Fantastic cheers Stan. I got my 7520 second hand of this forum and it came supplied with several op amps for me to try including LM4562.
Butuz
Does your 7520 have the very 1st power supply or the one labelled Beresford.me? I was one of the very 1st owners of the 7520 and I was upgraded to the Beresford.me PSU. Improvements were significant.
If you have that original PSU (not labelled Beresford.me) then you *MUST* upgrade:)
CD
Can somebody suggest me which one I should go for?
I prefer to purchase on ebay, but any other reputable place on the net is fine.
Thank you
Rob
http://markgrantcables.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=48_31&products_id=111
Another option.
Does your 7520 have the very 1st power supply or the one labelled Beresford.me? I was one of the very 1st owners of the 7520 and I was upgraded to the Beresford.me PSU. Improvements were significant.
If you have that original PSU (not labelled Beresford.me) then you *MUST* upgrade:)
CD
Hi There. The one I have is the Beresford.me 12v 1.5a.
Butuz
Just took the 49720HA metal can out and put 4562NA in and I think I prefer it!
Butuz
Hi There. The one I have is the Beresford.me 12v 1.5a.
Butuz
So you have the one I upgraded too. You're in good shape. I just orderd the Caiman PSU so we'll see how that goes.
CD
Just took the 49720HA metal can out and put 4562NA in and I think I prefer it!
Butuz
You know that the 49720HA is supposed to be a refined LM4562NA?
Also, when swapping opamps you really need to let the system settle in. Constantly playing music for 3 weeks, yes, 3 weeks minimum, for starters.
I've put the LM4562NAs back into my system twice, and this is what I observed;
initial 1st week observation: clear but very 2 dimensional.
2nd week: systems loses clarity, sounds get somewhat muffled as if someone put a thick curtain in front of the soundstage.
3rd week: Revelation:) It's as if the LM4562s have finally gotten in sync with the 7520 circuit board. Music is clear, coherent, and 3 dimensional.
CD
RoboCopper
08-05-2010, 22:19
Hi to all good people on this forum.
I just got LM4562NA 3 days ago, and it sound beautiful, open, natural, with tighter bass and lively sound. Now I must burn in together with 7520.
Cant wait for it as well as to try even better more expensive upgrades.
What are other better Op Amps to try with open, sound with clear midrange, clean highs and tight bass where it needs to be rather on lighter not darker side?
Also, is it better to buy power supply (which one) or to build one yourself?
Thanks to all.
Regards
Rob
Covenant
09-05-2010, 09:57
Hi to all good people on this forum.
I just got LM4562NA 3 days ago, and it sound beautiful, open, natural, with tighter bass and lively sound. Now I must burn in together with 7520.
Cant wait for it as well as to try even better more expensive upgrades.
What are other better Op Amps to try with open, sound with clear midrange, clean highs and tight bass where it needs to be rather on lighter not darker side?
Also, is it better to buy power supply (which one) or to build one yourself?
Thanks to all.
Regards
Rob
I like the AD826 op-amp which, IMHO, is a better all-rounder than the LM4562. With regard to power supplies I think its not an economic solution to build your own (unless your after the satisfaction). Stans suggestion is probably the best.
RoboCopper
10-05-2010, 09:35
Thanks Jerry,
Just a quick question in relation to AD826? Can you shortly describe the sound please?
Other questions:
1. As I am quite happy with LM4562NA, I would like to try THS4032, but where to buy it together with 8pin adapter SOLDERED together (once I tried to solder another chip, but my skills are not professional for that task). Any links would be appreciated, I prefer ebay purchase.
Is this safe "bet" to buy? (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ths4032-Dual-Opamp-replace-OPA2604-TL072-NE5532-OPA2132-/220535563931?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3358f1a69b) Is it original? Anybody had any experience from that seller?
2. What is Stan suggestion for power supply, my Beresford has normal PS ( Unifive is written on it)
Regards
StanleyB
10-05-2010, 11:07
2. What is Stan suggestion for power supply, my Beresford has normal PS ( Unifive is written on it)
My power supply is excellent, which is why I include it with the DAC :).
Of course, that doesn't mean that you can't try out other power supplies. I have customers using solar cells with a regulator and rechargeable batteries, or 12V car batteries, or CB radio linear power supplies, etc. My own latest experiment is with Maxwell super caps batteries.
RoboCopper
10-05-2010, 11:11
My power supply is excellent, which is why I include it with the DAC :).
Of course, that doesn't mean that you can't try out other power supplies. I have customers using solar cells with a regulator and rechargeable batteries, or 12V car batteries, or CB radio linear power supplies, etc. My own latest experiment is with Maxwell super caps batteries.
Hi Stan,
So this power supply which I have purchased with my 7520 is good (Unifive, 12v, 1.5A)? What PS is supplied with new 7520's?
Thank you for suggestions as well as well for excellent DAC's
Rob
StanleyB
10-05-2010, 11:21
So this power supply which I have purchased with my 7520 is good (Unifive, 12v, 1.5A)? What PS is supplied with new 7520's?
UniFive 12V, 1.5A. Have you seen the stand alone power supplies of other DACs on the market and compared them to mine? If anyone has, it is highly noticeable that my power supplies are of far better quality as well than those of my competitors in this price range.
RoboCopper
10-05-2010, 11:30
No, unfortunately I have not seen other PS, I am new to DAC market, but my ears tell me that 7520 (and brain) is excellent sounding DAC with upgrade possibilities.
I wonder if building own PS (e.g.with toroidal PS) would improve the sound or
is in not simply economical in terms of sound benefit?
StanleyB
10-05-2010, 11:34
I wonder if building own PS (e.g.with toroidal PS) would improve the sound or
is in not simply economical in terms of sound benefit?
Try a CB linear power supply and modify that one. I used one from Maplin to test the proof of concept.
At least Stans PSU's don't burn out unlike some certain others :eyebrows:
RoboCopper
10-05-2010, 14:56
What about this question..
1. As I am quite happy with LM4562NA, I would like to try THS4032, but where to buy it together with 8pin adapter SOLDERED together (once I tried to solder another chip, but my skills are not up for that task). Any links would be appreciated, I prefer ebay purchase.
Is this safe "bet" to buy? Is it original? Anybody had any experience from that seller?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ths4032-Dual-Opamp-replace-OPA2604-TL072-NE5532-OPA2132-/220535563931?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3358f1a69b
StanleyB
10-05-2010, 15:42
If you do a search in Google or the forum for Tirna Electronics you should be able to get the THS4032 from there. Many people on AoS uses their service for mods etc.
Covenant
10-05-2010, 16:25
Thanks Jerry,
Just a quick question in relation to AD826? Can you shortly describe the sound please?
Other questions:
1. As I am quite happy with LM4562NA, I would like to try THS4032, but where to buy it together with 8pin adapter SOLDERED together (once I tried to solder another chip, but my skills are not professional for that task). Any links would be appreciated, I prefer ebay purchase.
Is this safe "bet" to buy? (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ths4032-Dual-Opamp-replace-OPA2604-TL072-NE5532-OPA2132-/220535563931?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3358f1a69b) Is it original? Anybody had any experience from that seller?
2. What is Stan suggestion for power supply, my Beresford has normal PS ( Unifive is written on it)
Regards
Just bear in mind that my 7520 is modded-Murata regs and 15v supply-I dont know if some of the improvement is down to this but the AD826 IMHO has a better grip of deep bass (no bass boom) and a lovely 3 dimensional soundstage. For what they cost (about £4 each) its worth a try.
Just bear in mind that my 7520 is modded-Murata regs and 15v supply-I dont know if some of the improvement is down to this but the AD826 IMHO has a better grip of deep bass (no bass boom) and a lovely 3 dimensional soundstage. For what they cost (about £4 each) its worth a try.
I would agree.
I tried most of the usual suspects and settled on the AD826. Everything sounds more musical and natural.
The AD826 can drive harder loads than most other choices too, capacitive loads shouldn't cause it any problems so is less picky with interconnect cables etc
This chip will also really appreciate the better regulation giving better performance
I would agree.
I tried most of the usual suspects and settled on the AD826. Everything sounds more musical and natural.
Me too.
Tried loads of different ones to the point of nausea..
826 defo the best for me.
LM4562's dont sound as much like a good record player as the 826's!
StanleyB
11-05-2010, 07:03
I have been trying to borrow/buy two pieces of AD826 in order to try them out, but no luck so far. Anyone knows where I can find a pair of them?
RoboCopper
11-05-2010, 07:13
If you do a search in Google or the forum for Tirna Electronics you should be able to get the THS4032 from there. Many people on AoS uses their service for mods etc.
Thank Stanley,
I know, I read it on previous pages, they seem to be the very helpful and knowledgeable.
BUT, they do NOT sell it any more!!!!
Copy/Paste from them:
"We no longer sell these, due to a fault that we are still investigating."
"the only reason we stopped selling them on adaptors is that about 50% of them were instable and oscillated at MHz. This is because they are very high bandwidth and are trying to drive too much parasitic capacitance across the leads to the headphones or power amplifier in Audio DAC applications. there is a standard "fix2 for that but we have not had time to investigate it as yet so we are not selling them until we do sort the problem. It is quite possible that you would encounter the same problem with the one in the link."
"It is most likely fixable, but we haven't tried yet. We will put the news up on our website (www.tirnaelectronics.co.uk) when we have a fix for it. So keep checking our website. Apart from that, I cannot give a more firm answer of when we will have it ready for sale again."
I wonder where I can get them with adapters, and of course without the fault?
Anybody else had similar fault with THS4032?
Also, it seems that AD826 is maybe better option than LM4562NA? (for some ears of course)
StanleyB
11-05-2010, 07:20
I wonder where I can get them with adapters, and of course without the fault?
Anybody else had similar fault with THS4032?
Also, it seems that AD826 is maybe better option than LM4562NA? (for some ears of course)
Good luck with your search for the THS4032. AD826? Heard of them, but never tried them. Everyone has their own preference, so buy up a set of all the opamps recommended on the forum and see which ones you like.
I have been trying to borrow/buy two pieces of AD826 in order to try them out, but no luck so far. Anyone knows where I can find a pair of them?
RS do them Stan:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=retrieveTfg&Ne=4294922322&Ntt=*AD826*&Ntk=I18NBrandPartNumber&Nr=AND%28avl%3Auk%2CsearchDiscon_uk%3AN%29&Ntx=mode%2Bmatchallpartial&N=4294611851+4294917637&Ns=stockPolicy_uk|1||new_uk|1&Nty=1&LanguageId=en&multiselectParam=&selectSubRange=Operational%20Amplifiers%20%28Dual% 29#breadCrumb
StanleyB
11-05-2010, 08:04
Anyone hear with an RS account?
I have been trying to borrow/buy two pieces of AD826 in order to try them out, but no luck so far. Anyone knows where I can find a pair of them?
You can have mine Stan, I've only got one though
StanleyB
11-05-2010, 08:40
Cheers Leo It's half of the problem solved :).
Peter Galbavy
11-05-2010, 15:48
Also seen the AD826 on Farnell for the same price, in case they are easier to deal with: http://uk.farnell.com/analog-devices/ad826anz/op-amp-dual-pdip8-826/dp/1438583
RoboCopper
12-05-2010, 08:06
In my experience and opinion all those electrical merchants including Farnel, RS, digikey etc.. are cumbersome to deal with, due to their higher postage prices and some strange rules.
Maybe I used to eBay too much?
Peter Galbavy
12-05-2010, 09:53
As per my other thread I ordered a variety of pairs of opamps from Farnell and the standard delivery is free - the only thing is a minimum order of £20 for credit cards. E-mail said all posted last night. Not cumbersome at all :)
RoboCopper
12-05-2010, 10:07
As per my other thread I ordered a variety of pairs of opamps from Farnell and the standard delivery is free - the only thing is a minimum order of £20 for credit cards. E-mail said all posted last night. Not cumbersome at all :)
Looks OK, I need to get £20 of order value, which should not be too hard.
How much was a delivery? Thanks
RoboCopper
12-05-2010, 10:08
Looks OK, I need to get £20 of order value, which should not be too hard.
How much was a delivery? Thanks
I see now..........IT IS FREE :) :stalks:
Peter Galbavy
12-05-2010, 13:04
:-P
Well I never thought I'd find myself doing this sort of thing!
I always thought the type of people that busied themselves with things like valve rolling, speaker cable rolling, interconnect rolling, etc simply did not have enough to do in work. :lol:
But lo! I find myself even more work shy....
...... op amp rolling!!! :scratch::eek::doh:
http://theartofsound.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1827&stc=1&d=1273683936
:cool:
Butuz
Covenant
12-05-2010, 17:39
Careful Butuz it's addictive!
RoboCopper
12-05-2010, 18:48
Well I never thought I'd find myself doing this sort of thing!
I always thought the type of people that busied themselves with things like valve rolling, speaker cable rolling, interconnect rolling, etc simply did not have enough to do in work. :lol:
But lo! I find myself even more work shy....
...... op amp rolling!!! :scratch::eek::doh:
http://theartofsound.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1827&stc=1&d=1273683936
:cool:
Butuz
Like this photo! Very creative......must do one myself once I collect more opamps :)
Just remember to give them some time if they are new chips, and if you use headphones remember both opamps have a say in the sound. You may even get tempted to remove the MLC 5/6 caps to see what that does, or try the cap mod in it's place. You're through the looking glass now mate. :)
I have placed 2/3 orders under £20 before and had no problem. Well apart from the credit card company thinking one was a fraud test payment. That could have been on my debit card though.
RoboCopper
12-05-2010, 19:40
Just remember to give them some time if they are new chips, and if you use headphones remember both opamps have a say in the sound. You may even get tempted to remove the MLC 5/6 caps to see what that does, or try the cap mod in it's place. You're through the looking glass now mate. :)
I have placed 2/3 orders under £20 before and had no problem. Well apart from the credit card company thinking one was a fraud test payment. That could have been on my debit card though.
Hi, as English is not my 1st language, I am not sure what would mean "You're through the looking glass now mate" in previous context? (I did search for that phrase on Google, but still do not get it).
Anyway, would you suggest removing those caps mods first or shall I try 4-5 different OpAmps first?
Cheers
StanleyB
12-05-2010, 20:08
MLC5/6 affect the soundstage and focal presence. If you remove them you get a wider soundstage with a slightly laid back midrange.
RoboCopper
13-05-2010, 06:38
MLC5/6 affect the soundstage and focal presence. If you remove them you get a wider soundstage with a slightly laid back midrange.
Hi Stan,
So removing MLC5/6 will affect midrange to go back, instead of forward as it seems now on my 7520(only mod I did is LM4562NA opamps)?
Thanks
StanleyB
13-05-2010, 06:41
Hi Stan,
So removing MLC5/6 will affect midrange to go back, instead of forward as it seems now on my 7520(only mod I did is LM4562NA opamps)?
Thanks
As I said :). SO you can use MLC5/6 to compensate for speakers that are too forward in the midrange.
I've ordered a pair of AD826 for my Caiman, will compare them with the LM4562. Just out of interest, though, as I'm well impressed with its performance at the moment.
You know that the 49720HA is supposed to be a refined LM4562NA?
Also, when swapping opamps you really need to let the system settle in. Constantly playing music for 3 weeks, yes, 3 weeks minimum, for starters.
Yep - I agree with you now! I put the 49720HA metal can back in last night and I think it does have the edge over the LM4562NA. It seems to have a slightly bigger sound stage and generally seems a bit more accurate. Maybe ever so slightly less bass though.
Loving it at the moment!! Everything sounds great!!! Well apart from Coldplay but I don't think any op amp can help that :p
Butuz
Well apart from Coldplay but I don't think any op amp can help that
Don't you just want to shoot their engineer?
Ali Tait
13-05-2010, 12:04
Hung,drawn and quartered more like!
Hi, as English is not my 1st language, I am not sure what would mean "You're through the looking glass now mate" in previous context? (I did search for that phrase on Google, but still do not get it).
Anyway, would you suggest removing those caps mods first or shall I try 4-5 different OpAmps first?
Cheers
If you've seen 'The Matrix' I suppose you could say it's like taking the red pill, in that you won't be able to go back to how things were before. In other words, you wont be able to stop fiddling now you have started.
Personally I found the removing them opened up the sound a lot, but then I haven't really got the skills to put it back in place to compare, it was a leap of faith and the tight space led to me damaging the cap slightly, so I just removed them altogether.
Yep - I agree with you now! I put the 49720HA metal can back in last night and I think it does have the edge over the LM4562NA. It seems to have a slightly bigger sound stage and generally seems a bit more accurate. Maybe ever so slightly less bass though.
Loving it at the moment!! Everything sounds great!!! Well apart from Coldplay but I don't think any op amp can help that :p
Butuz
Are you using the LM49720 in both opamp sockets or just one?
CD
Are you using the LM49720 in both opamp sockets or just one?
CD
Just in the Pre/Fixed socket with LM4562NA in the headphone socket.
Why? Do both sockets make a difference???
Butuz
Just in the Pre/Fixed socket with LM4562NA in the headphone socket.
Why? Do both sockets make a difference???
Butuz
Yes they do. And so the possibilities do increase:)
CD
Oo that's interesting.
i'll have to get my hands on another LM49720 to try as at the mo I only have 1!
Butuz
How does or in what way does the headphone opamp make a difference to the main output?
RoboCopper
16-05-2010, 12:18
If you've seen 'The Matrix' I suppose you could say it's like taking the red pill, in that you won't be able to go back to how things were before. In other words, you wont be able to stop fiddling now you have started.
Personally I found the removing them opened up the sound a lot, but then I haven't really got the skills to put it back in place to compare, it was a leap of faith and the tight space led to me damaging the cap slightly, so I just removed them altogether.
I think that every member of this forum has seen "The Matrix", although I also think that my grandma have not seen it, but she is not member of this forum, neither she know what the DAC is ;)
Anyway, it is an excellent explanation of what can happen if you remove those caps. Is there more info on this forum about removing those caps?
Cheers (must think of blue or red pill now)
RoboCopper
16-05-2010, 12:19
How does or in what way does the headphone opamp make a difference to the main output?
I agree, I even tried to listen to DAC with only one opamp, and the sound is the same.
There should be more information earlier in this thread and in the sticky thread. The majority of people liked the change, although someone did have the caps put back.
I tried changing the headphone opamp for differences on line out but decided it made no difference or was too small a difference to matter, especially as it complicates issues when balancing line out and headphones.
You also have to keep in mind that there are 2 types of listeners here; those with headphones and those with stereos.
In my case, I've never used the headphone section.
CD
Me too, David. All my efforts have been towards improving the fixed line outputs.
RoboCopper
17-05-2010, 08:36
Me, as well.
I am concentrating only on fixed output as I only listening speakers as only speakers can create musical space, involvement as it was recorded. I do not even own headphones, I know you can hear more with headphones and can be enjoyable, but...... room is room, space is space, ......my opinion.
Greetings
This is my first post. Have enjoyed the reading, but more importantly I am very much enjoyng listen to my 7520 with the mods. I am looking to do the audio cap. mod. Has anyone used the Elna SILMIC II 47uF 16V 85'c Capacitors on the six you replace on the Audio board.
Do the capacitors need to polarity or can they be Non-polarity?
Thank
The way I read it it's non-polar caps.
At the risk of shooting myself in the foot and being trampled in the stampede, if you hadn't noticed already the ultimate full monty TC-7520 mods have gone live at Tirna Electronics. :)
So for the electronically challenged like me there's no excuse, apart from the little matter of having the necessary cash.:(
Covenant
08-06-2010, 18:08
He he mine is already at Tirna's :eyebrows:
Been there....done that.... :ner:
Covenant
08-06-2010, 19:47
Ah.... but I am getting some extra's and so is Dave :eyebrows::eyebrows::eyebrows:
That me being left out the loop again Jerry? ;)
G'wan, spill the beans..its a nice drive from Motherwell to West Linton, and it'd be a shame to let this good weather go to waste? :)
Covenant
10-06-2010, 14:40
What do you mean again?
All we got done extra was the 12K resistor and the shortcut mod. Jimmy offered so we couldn't refuse......:eek:
Is you e-mail ok? I sent you a message yesterday asking about how the Beresford was sounding afeter a few days use and Dave has been trying to contact you as well.:scratch:
Uhm..should be Jerry?
I'm back to using MS Outlook for my mail after a reinstall, so possible theres a filter somewhere thats causing a problem, dunno.
Will check.
About the upgrades...
I noticed even as recent as last week the Dac was sounding better than before..
actually, I noticed it more when I took the Lightspeed out of the system to pack it up and sort it for return it to Dave..very happy with how its sounding! :eek:
I suspect its the Elnas finally coming on song rather than the Lightspeed "strangling" the improvements...
Hows yours with the wire and resistor mod?
I've read the resistor mod can make the bass a bit TOO much?
How did you find it Jerry?
(and Dave too, if your out there!!) :)
Covenant
10-06-2010, 17:14
Not got mine back from Tirna yet Gaz but I am worried about the resistor mod as I can very easily get bass boom in my little music room. Still shouldn't be tooooo difficult to change back:donk:
Looking fwd to hearing what you think of it Jerry....this and the Elna caps should be quite a jump all at once.
The Elna's really do open the sound right up..just give them time to settle.
I was saying to Dave to give the new caps some time to settle in, after a couple of weeks I thought the sound had settled.
4/5 weeks after installation is about the time to allow in my experience.
It the 12k resistor/wire mod doesnt get in the way of that I can see myself going for it.
An extra bit of heft in the bass (as long as its still tight and doesnt boom) would not be a bad thing in my system, so maybe this latest mod which gives more bass and greater dynamic range might be just what I'm after...?
I have my Amp on "Direct" and have the tone controls switched out of circuit in my amp, but I tried them with just a touch extra bass and the sound benefited from it.
Treble was all over the place though...tone controls switched off pretty sharpish!
After stumbling onto this site and seeing what you could with this DAC, I just had t order one.
Just got mine yesterday, played some FLAC files through it via USB and then from my Sonos (both sounded the same). What I really liked about the USB setup was the ability to tweak the sound a bit using Media Monkey's EQ. The heaphones sounded great, my 703's are begging to be revealed further :)
As I work for a company that assemblies printed circuit boards, I already have the Wolfson DAC, Elna Caps, and about 6 different Op amps en-route! I am really looking to see how good this unit can sound. My last endeavor was modding an Auzentech X Meridian sound card with some LM 4562's and replacing some caps. The sound was pretty awesome.
I have a feeling this DAC is going to be something else. Thanks for all the contributions from all the members on AoS.......
Realized I probably should have posted here......
So I swapped my DAC to the Wolfson, this was the only mod thus far. Played fine for several hours. Left it running over night, came back to listen to it and had no sound coming out of the right channel through analog out. On the headphones, the right output is very faint in comparison to the left. All inputs act the same.
I obviously will check the soldering on the DAC under high magnification at the shop tomorrow. Any suggestions as where else I can look for potential problems?
Looks like I found the issue of an unsoldered pin. Although I do have a lifted pad at pin 17 of the DAC as well......
Stan, is pin 17 connected? Looks like its not.
StanleyB
18-06-2010, 13:11
Pin 17 is not connected.
Thanks Stan....
Gotta say, even with a highly trained solderer, removing/replacing this DAC wasn't that simple.
Nice to have 30x magnification at your disposal :)
I would like to change the caps in my TC-7520. I have some Elna Silmic II 47uf 16 volts. Is this the cap you are using?
Regards
Bryan
I would like to change the caps in my TC-7520. I have some Elna Silmic II 47uf 16 volts. Is this the cap you are using?
Regards
Bryan
I would have liked to use the Nichicon Caps on all locations but due to availability this is what I am doing.
The 100uf caps on this board will be replaced with Nichicon Muse Caps UES1C470MPM
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UES1C470MPM/?qs=kArNe9LFxXmxjqvlLPlA%252bw%3d%3d :
http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/8921/picture023large.jpg
The ones on this board marked in red will be swapped with the Elna's you made mention to. Got them all from Digi-Key PN's:
RFS-25v221 2pcs
RFS-16V101 1pc
RFS-16V100 8pcs
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/6986/p1020812description.jpg
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/4973/p1020817description.jpg
Looks like I found the issue of an unsoldered pin. Although I do have a lifted pad at pin 17 of the DAC as well......
Stan, is pin 17 connected? Looks like its not.
Happy to say my DAC issues are resolved!
Just curious......why isn't the 4.7uf 50v cap replaced in front of the 220uf?
Mine needs to be replaced now that I cut it out!! lol :) Does it need to be an Elna or will any electrolytic do?
that cap isnt related to sound quality..its for the power button.
I've done the mods you are doing and Ive had that cap changed too.
Cant say the power putton works any better! ;)
that cap isnt related to sound quality..its for the power button.
I've done the mods you are doing and Ive had that cap changed too.
Cant say the power putton works any better! ;)
LOL Gaz!
I've been following your progress in the Beresford threads. You've been an inspiration into my tinkering!
Just curious, will a 35v 4.7uf cap be sufficient in this location?
LOL Gaz!
I've been following your progress in the Beresford threads. You've been an inspiration into my tinkering!
Just curious, will a 35v 4.7uf cap be sufficient in this location?
Happy to help! :)
Good thing about AOS (As you no doubt have noticed) is theres a lot of guys willing to pitch in, share thoughts, successes and cock ups...its all good stuff.
Personally?
I'd leave that cap alone and look into power supplys next....
to me thats the last step on getting the Dac up to its full potential.
...well, until the NEXT mod comes along that is! ;)
I have the Murata power regs on order and looking to snap up a power supply on Ebay today....
The power button cap needs to be replaced as I inadvertently cut it out
Well, Steps 1 and 2 are completed. ELna Caps are in and so is the Wolfson DAC.
I shall attempt the Nichicon Muse Caps this evening with utterly pathetic soldering skills! :)
Since I have the Wolfson DAC on board now, would this mod to my Sonos be of little significance now?
http://www.cullencircuits.com/webapps/site/67005/78076/shopping/shopping-plus.html?find_groupid=12070
Well, Steps 1 and 2 are completed. ELna Caps are in and so is the Wolfson DAC.
I shall attempt the Nichicon Muse Caps this evening with utterly pathetic soldering skills! :)
Since I have the Wolfson DAC on board now, would this mod to my Sonos be of little significance now?
http://www.cullencircuits.com/webapps/site/67005/78076/shopping/shopping-plus.html?find_groupid=12070
Since you are considering spending $500 to $800 to upgrade your Sonos, why didn't you get the Caiman instead of the 7520?:confused:
CD
Because I can upgrade my TC-7520 for practically nothing. I have availability to all the components as samples.
Any serious mods (beyond my pathetic soldering skills) can be done at the shop I work for which assembles printed circuit boards...... :)
So are you implying that a Caiman would render this modified Sonos useless?
Because I can upgrade my TC-7520 for practically nothing. I have availability to all the components as samples.
Any serious mods (beyond my pathetic soldering skills) can be done at the shop I work for which assembles printed circuit boards...... :)
So are you implying that a Caiman would render this modified Sonos useless?
Fair enough. I have no experience with the Sonos so I can't realy advsie you on that.
CD
Well, Steps 1 and 2 are completed. ELna Caps are in and so is the Wolfson DAC.
I shall attempt the Nichicon Muse Caps this evening with utterly pathetic soldering skills! :)
Since I have the Wolfson DAC on board now, would this mod to my Sonos be of little significance now?
http://www.cullencircuits.com/webapps/site/67005/78076/shopping/shopping-plus.html?find_groupid=12070
I've not tried the Cullen mod or a Sonos but I did hear quite a noticeable improvement with all my dacs including the Caiman after installing an Audiocom Superclock 4 in a Squeezebox Duet, its still running in but I hear an improvement across the range.
drumlins4ever
22-06-2010, 21:59
Massive thread , a little bewildering to read thru it.
Any ideas on what opamp's could be used to tame treble a little?
Any ideas on what opamp's could be used to tame treble a little?
AD826.
Massive thread , a little bewildering to read thru it.
Any ideas on what opamp's could be used to tame treble a little?
This thread summarizes things a little better:
http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3058
I for one read all 160+ pages from start to finish....definitely too much time on my hands, aye? :)
AD826.
x2. Frm the op-amps I have tried it is the most realistic. Well, for me anyway. I prefer the "richer" sound but at the same time still having detail.
x2. Frm the op-amps I have tried it is the most realistic. Well, for me anyway. I prefer the "richer" sound but at the same time still having detail.
I am looking forward to trying these too. The LM4562's seem a little bright for me but then again my Nichicon Muse caps just have 30 hours on them....
Did you ever try the 4562's with your B&W's trailer?
Did you ever try the 4562's with your B&W's trailer?
Yes, I've tried pretty much all of the usual suspects I think. I can't exactly recall what they sounded like to be honest! I just remember as others recommend op-amps I tended to get a couple and try them out. I've ended up with an 826 in the line-out and a 2132 in the headphone socket. No headphones used though.
drumlins4ever
23-06-2010, 17:46
Anyone got a spare AD826 they wanna swap ?
I have some OPA2132 , OPA2134 and LM4562NA opamps i could swap for.
Michael
After fiddling around all night I have an op amp question.
Stan - can you explain to me the relationship between the fixed/variable op amp and the headphone op amp.
From my experiments it seems if using the fixed/variable outs to my amp - the headphone op amp makes no difference, it can even be removed. Wheras when listening to headphones, the headphone op amp obviously makes a big difference, but also the fixed/variable op amp makes a difference too as if you remove it totally the sound changes and goes much much quieter. Is this the case?
So if I am op amp rolling with the fixed/variable I only need to roll the left hand op amp. But if I am op amp rolling with my headphones, I actually need to roll both op amps. Is this the case?
Also - I noticed that if I remove both op amps, it still produces music!!!! Is this normal??? Can you explain what the op amps actually do?
Cheers from a very confused..
Butuz
Apparently my TC-7520 is coming home tomorrow with the Tirna Mods (Wolfson/Silmic/MuRata/Rubycon/Wima) :)
Tonight I will be mostly doing a happy dance and feeling like a kid waiting for Christmas.
Andrew
Very interested to hear if you like it upgraded!!!
Butuz
Hi Butuz,
Just received and plugged in the Tirna-modded Beresford. First impressions are very positive. A more up-front sound (in terms of the soundstage), improved get-up-and-go, faster leading and trailing edges along with an increase in inner detail.
Also it sounds like there is more to come when properly warmed up. I'm probably going to get a nice surprise when I get home from work.
Andrew
Can someone who has experienced the migration from 7520 to Caiman to fully Tirna modified Caiman apportion some sort of scoring to the changes?
Assuming the mods bring detail, ambiance etc and are positive, does for example going from 7520 to Caiman bring 70% of the improvement and the other mods bring 30%?
I have/had a TC-7520 which is now in turmoil from my unending mod adventure. Looks like I cooked my DAC. I am ordering some replacement boards from Stan along with a Caiman hopefully today.
But up to the point of the TC-7520's current status:
1) DAC upgrade is by far the biggest improvement
2) Power regulators come in next
Everything else is subtle, caps etc. If I could do it all over again, I may have just stopped at the DAC change. It was so substantial for replacing a $6.00 chip, it was utterly amazing!
RoboCopper
01-07-2010, 14:14
I have/had a TC-7520 which is now in turmoil from my unending mod adventure. Looks like I cooked my DAC. I am ordering some replacement boards from Stan along with a Caiman hopefully today.
But up to the point of the TC-7520's current status:
1) DAC upgrade is by far the biggest improvement
2) Power regulators come in next
Everything else is subtle, caps etc. If I could do it all over again, I may have just stopped at the DAC change. It was so substantial for replacing a $6.00 chip, it was utterly amazing!
Great to hear it,
Can you describe what is the difference in sound?
Also, where can I order this DAC?
As well as power regulators?
This looks like next upgrade :)
thanks
Great to hear it,
Can you describe what is the difference in sound?
Also, where can I order this DAC?
As well as power regulators?
This looks like next upgrade :)
thanks
The Wolfson DAC is stock at Newark
http://www.newark.com/wolfson-microelectronics/wm8716seds-rv/d-a-converter-ic/dp/52R8741?Ntt=wm8716
The power regulators are stock at Digikey
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=7805+murata
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=7812sr
You will need a new power supply for your 7520 once you change the regulators. You can order the Caiman power supply or get yourself a linear power supply as I did.
Hi Butuz,
Just received and plugged in the Tirna-modded Beresford. First impressions are very positive. A more up-front sound (in terms of the soundstage), improved get-up-and-go, faster leading and trailing edges along with an increase in inner detail.
Also it sounds like there is more to come when properly warmed up. I'm probably going to get a nice surprise when I get home from work.
Andrew
Hi all,
The above still stands, but later listening confirmed some issues I have with my Caiman PSU. Bass seemed restricted and the tune seemed flat (just as it was when I briefly tried it with the original TC-7520) - so I swapped back to my 7520 supply and wow! Bass and tune returned with vengeance.
While I fully understand that the 7520 supply's 12V voltage is probably too low or borderline for the MuRata regulators - the difference is astounding.
Would appreciate some advice here [please :)]. Might consider trying a linear supply, like here (http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=5893).
Andrew
P.S. I am really loving the Tirna mods - the DAC is even juicier, detailed and involving. ...100%
StanleyB
01-07-2010, 20:16
If you have a lack of bass with the Caiman PSU after the mods, then you need a more bassy opamp. The AD826 or THS4032CD would be a good starting point.
If you have a lack of bass with the Caiman PSU after the mods, then you need a more bassy opamp. The AD826 or THS4032CD would be a good starting point.
Hi Stanley,
I'm using an OP2132PA, which has a very fruity and solid bass (how I like it) without getting in the way of what the rest of the music is doing - and the 7520 supply is preserving that characteristic. I think I drew the short straw with this particular Caiman supply.
Oh My Gosh - right now am listening to Infected Mushroom's Viscious Delicious and it is sounding even more evil!!! (for Clive's benefit, 53% more evil ;)) Well done Stanley and Jimmy!
Andrew
Hi all,
The above still stands, but later listening confirmed some issues I have with my Caiman PSU. Bass seemed restricted and the tune seemed flat (just as it was when I briefly tried it with the original TC-7520) - so I swapped back to my 7520 supply and wow! Bass and tune returned with vengeance.
While I fully understand that the 7520 supply's 12V voltage is probably too low or borderline for the MuRata regulators - the difference is astounding.
Would appreciate some advice here [please :)]. Might consider trying a linear supply, like here (http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=5893).
Andrew
P.S. I am really loving the Tirna mods - the DAC is even juicier, detailed and involving. ...100%
This is exactly what I experienced with the Caiman PSU added to my 7520, and I have the original regulators. Swapping back to my 7520 PSU brought my 7520 back to life.
CD
If you have a lack of bass with the Caiman PSU after the mods, then you need a more bassy opamp. The AD826 or THS4032CD would be a good starting point.
I second the AD826......definitely a richer fuller sound with this op amp.
Also, those caps need some time to settle it. Leave the unit on for a week straight and you will be pleasantly surprised at how warm the sound becomes!
RoboCopper
03-07-2010, 06:33
The Wolfson DAC is stock at Newark
http://www.newark.com/wolfson-microelectronics/wm8716seds-rv/d-a-converter-ic/dp/52R8741?Ntt=wm8716
The power regulators are stock at Digikey
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=7805+murata
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=7812sr
You will need a new power supply for your 7520 once you change the regulators. You can order the Caiman power supply or get yourself a linear power supply as I did.
Cheers for this,
Do I need both power regulators or any one of those listed?
Also, what linear power supply did you get or you built one yourself?
Cheers
StanleyB
03-07-2010, 07:40
You need both. Also remove the 10 ohms/1W resistor behind the 5V reg and replace it with a wire link if you are using the Murata 5V reg.
Cheers for this,
Do I need both power regulators or any one of those listed?
Also, what linear power supply did you get or you built one yourself?
Cheers
I find one of these used for $30
http://cgi.ebay.com/MASTECH-VARIABLE-DC-POWER-SUPPLY-HY1803D-0-18-V-0-3A-/380243455653?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588846aea5
drumlins4ever
07-07-2010, 13:00
Just about to buy a AD826 for my tc-7520, can anyone confirm that this is the right one
http://radionics.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5228130
OR THIS
http://ie.farnell.com/analog-devices/ad826anz/op-amp-dual-pdip8-826/dp/1438583
Also , i can just drop this in without having to change anything else , its just a simple swap replacement for whatever opamp is in there ?
Thanks
Just about to buy a AD826 for my tc-7520, can anyone confirm that this is the right one
http://radionics.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5228130
OR THIS
http://ie.farnell.com/analog-devices/ad826anz/op-amp-dual-pdip8-826/dp/1438583
Also , i can just drop this in without having to change anything else , its just a simple swap replacement for whatever opamp is in there ?
Thanks
That is it....just pull out the old one and in with the new. Make sure pin 1 is located correctly when you reinstall it. Pin one is the little black circle on each chip, DO NOT go by the orientation of the "lettering" on the chip!
drumlins4ever
07-07-2010, 14:28
thanks for that , looking forward to trying this opamp shortly
The 826 is my favorite thus far.
Have an lm4562HA at the office that just arrived. Can't wait to try that out.
The 826 is my favorite thus far.
Have an lm4562HA at the office that just arrived. Can't wait to try that out.
They are both excellent op-amps and you will settle on one based on its sound in your system. I would be happy with either but slightly prefer the LM4562 in my system.
I've tried the LM 826, but still far preferred the OPA2132PA.
Much better still is removing the board and fitting 47uF capacitors into the PIN3B connector - as per post 117 in the passive Caiman thread (http://theartofsound.net/forum/showpost.php?p=135736&postcount=117)
Andrew
I've tried the LM 826, but still far preferred the OPA2132PA.
Much better still is removing the board and fitting 47uF capacitors into the PIN3B connector - as per post 117 in the passive Caiman thread (http://theartofsound.net/forum/showpost.php?p=135736&postcount=117)
Andrew
Interesting, never read that thread. Although I use the variable out to my preamp and the headphone out, this mod won't work for my setup unless I were to use my ext in on the preamp. Unfortunately, I have only one ext in which is for my SACD player.
Interesting, never read that thread. Although I use the variable out to my preamp and the headphone out, this mod won't work for my setup unless I were to use my ext in on the preamp. Unfortunately, I have only one ext in which is for my SACD player.
I've not yet tested it, but applying the mod this way might mean the DAC still has a variable output - albeit a passive pre-amp.
Best regards,
Andrew
Can someone tell me the 1/2w resistor value in the location directly behind RCA1 please.
May have found why I lost a channel FINALLY! ANY help would be greatly appreciated!
drumlins4ever
11-07-2010, 21:45
The AD826 makes nothing but music in my system , think i prefer it over the OPA2132 would be very interested in trying a LMH6655 , Anyone else tried one?
I've tried the LM 826, but still far preferred the OPA2132PA.
Much better still is removing the board and fitting 47uF capacitors into the PIN3B connector - as per post 117 in the passive Caiman thread (http://theartofsound.net/forum/showpost.php?p=135736&postcount=117)
Andrew
Gotta say, this is nice! Thanks for the link!
Guess I have now determined my op amp board was the problem with the lost channel I was struggling with....
I have music back and it is sweet. Time to let the Nichicon Muse caps burn in for a week or two :)
I'm testing out the metal cap version of the LM4562 and results initially are quite positive. They are bloody awkward to fit though and clearance looks like it'll be a problem. Does anyone know any potential problems with the dip adapted ones like the ones sold here...
http://www.audioupgrades.co.uk/na_ma_ha_opamps.shtml
RoboCopper
22-08-2010, 10:14
Well, i don't know... browsing pages along the 4032 and 4562...
"Ad8620 Vs. THS4032"
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1658008
"In my Twistedpear COD DAC, at the balance to single conversion position after the AD826 IV, I have tried both AD8620 and THS4032, also LM4562, AD8066, LM6172, OPA2132 and OPA2064 etc.
*For pop/jazz/vocal music, I prefer THS4032 - a lot.*
The difference between THS4032 and other amp in this case is day and night. It sounds a lot fuller, more importantly, it has much better pace than other amp. It is simply more musical. It tips towards the lower end. But that is what I am looking for. Comparing to the Twistedpear Buffalo, the COD in on the thin side.
You have to try out THS4032."
Something for you?
This thread also says:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1156001#post1156001
"Have you checked the data sheet for the THS4032 compared to the older NJM4580?
It says the OP-amp (THS4032) cant drive a capacitive load unless it is smaller than 20pF. Check all outputs (pin 1 and pin7) to see if there is a proper protection resistor for to avoid oscillations and unstable operations. If there is capacitors connected right on the outputs it could be necessary to apply a series resistor from the output (20-75 ohm maximum). But Im not sure about the solution due to I dont have any schematics for the SRC2496 to look at and you havnt verified the oscillation on a scope?
Due to the high bandwith, this circuit operates in class-A and because of that it will be running pretty hot (ca 0.5W heat dissipating for each IC) but could of course run to hot if oscillate."
and
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1156028#post1156028
"Oscillating op-amps distort the sound badly, and that's what you are enjoying and calling "SOOO OOOOOPEN", distorted sound. Most pre-amp mods are actually based in making some stage oscillate by accident, but don't say it too loud or some people may become upset... (Anyway, the kind of people that does this stuff neither have an oscilloscope to check nor care about stability at all)."
and
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1156238#post1156238
"You can't use the THS4032 for most audio applications because IT'S NOT UNITY-GAIN STABLE, and most audio circuits require that condition. This op-amp is only stable for gains of 2 or higher, as it's intended for video buffering applications. There is no simple way to make it unity-gain stable.
Also, you can't use the THS4032 with +/-15V in a PCB designed for conventional op-amps because it requires specific layout considerations in order to handle those 0.45W of idle dissipation. Furthermore, most PCB layouts designed for conventional audio op-amps just can't handle the 100Mhz bandwidth."
and
"first thing you should do if wanting to mod circuits should be to purchase a decent oscilloscope for a couple of bucks. Analog instrument are nearly for free now a days and that will be your first choice measuring instrument to use if your intention is to modify circuits. Also, you will learn a lot when using such an instrument and also, its very very useful for all electronic developments, error measurements, modifications and services on broken/faulty equipments.
Otherwise all your future works with modifications will newer be verified only estimated by a guessing.
It will do with a scope in the range of 50 to 100 MHz, (best=100MHz) but you dont need a 2 channel scope, but its very convenient to be able to see what is coming in and what is coming out at the same time when measuring."
Not that i understand enough of it, but warnings about how to implement this thing, would like to get the hang of whats that all about...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1659635#post1659635
"I got THS4032 and THS4031.
they sounds good.
extended highs , full mids , well controlled and punchy lows.
The only thing I am not satisfied with is that sound stage is a bit narrow compared with traditional Audio OPAMP."
So many opinions on things. I once decided electronics is too much mathematics for me, so i stopped at basic level. Every once and then,
things like these make me wish i knew more and had some gear.
After reading this post, I wonder if THS4032 is compatible with Beresford 7520 DAC?
Would someone suggest it?
Any sound reviews if it is safe to use?
If it is compatible and good to use is this a good price?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360292194570
RoboCopper
29-08-2010, 18:24
Are you writing about line output or headphone output? And what is the spec of the mods that you are using to base your comments on?
I am getting increasingly worried that some people are refrring to mods on top of other mods. This clouds the original starting point reference.
I myself can hear enough detail in the guitar touches with the WM8716/LM4562NA combination, and which includes the MLC5/6 mod.
I get about the same result with the PCM1716/NE5532FE combination without the MLC5/6 mod. That's with the line output.
Things get a lot more complex with headphones. The 1st and 2nd opamp types can have a dramatic effect. I like the THS4032 in the LIne and the LM4562 in the headphone for the K701. For the HD650 I prefer the LM4562 in both location. My MDR-F1 is happier with LM4562NA in LINE and NE5532FE in headphone.
Stan
Stan,
I am only listening to line output and at present time I have 7520 with LM4562 with MLC5/6 mods.
Would you also suggest PCM1716 to WM8716 upgrade as I have a friend who knows better his soldering iron than I do know my pocket :)
What is the difference in sound when PCM1716 is upgraded to WM8716?
Anybody, any experiences?
Best regards
TeTsuo36
02-09-2010, 13:03
Just realised i had not been here and posted for over a year! That is what a baby, another baby on the way and a loft conversion does for you.
So my 7520. WM8716 Wolfson, 4562NA on the headphones and THS4032 (with cap) on the line out. No other mods.
I wanted to do the MCL 5/6 mod, but figured i may need to change the THS4032. I ordered a 4562NA and some of the LMEs. I wanted 4562HA, but National don't appear to do samples and at Farnell they are £20. Anyone have a cheaper source? Would i even notice the difference to the NA?
Also, may i ask. How do you fit a 4562HA? With the adaptor or soldered straight in to the pcb?
Thanks in advance, great to see the mods still continuing, looks like i have a LOT to catch up on.
All the best, Mark.
Just realised i had not been here and posted for over a year! That is what a baby, another baby on the way and a loft conversion does for you.
So my 7520. WM8716 Wolfson, 4562NA on the headphones and THS4032 (with cap) on the line out. No other mods.
I wanted to do the MCL 5/6 mod, but figured i may need to change the THS4032. I ordered a 4562NA and some of the LMEs. I wanted 4562HA, but National don't appear to do samples and at Farnell they are £20. Anyone have a cheaper source? Would i even notice the difference to the NA?
Also, may i ask. How do you fit a 4562HA? With the adaptor or soldered straight in to the pcb?
Thanks in advance, great to see the mods still continuing, looks like i have a LOT to catch up on.
All the best, Mark.
Tetsuo,
Two words - "Passive Mod"
Four words - "Got to be done"
See my post #117 in the passive Caiman thread.
Enjoy!
Andrew Randle
Tetsuo,
Two words - "Passive Mod"
Four words - "Got to be done"
See my post #117 in the passive Caiman thread.
Enjoy!
Andrew Randle
Here's the link, to save other people searching.
http://theartofsound.net/forum/showpost.php?p=135736&postcount=117
Sorry if this has been stated, but I'm not clear - does this leave the headphone/variable output still working? [Ignore this question - just re-read - No and Yes as far as I can tell.]
Stan,
I am only listening to line output and at present time I have 7520 with LM4562 with MLC5/6 mods.
Would you also suggest PCM1716 to WM8716 upgrade as I have a friend who knows better his soldering iron than I do know my pocket :)
What is the difference in sound when PCM1716 is upgraded to WM8716?
Anybody, any experiences?
Best regards
Oh yes, do it, without a doubt. The differences to my ears are in the frequency extremes when you swap out the PCM1716 for the WM8716 - deeper, more tuneful and better controlled bass and cleaner, sweeter and easier to listen to top end. If you know someone who can do the job for you, it's a no brainer.
TeTsuo36
02-09-2010, 22:15
Here's the link, to save other people searching.
http://theartofsound.net/forum/showpost.php?p=135736&postcount=117
Sorry if this has been stated, but I'm not clear - does this leave the headphone/variable output still working? [Ignore this question - just re-read - No and Yes as far as I can tell.]
Thanks, looks like whole new thread to get into. Passive mod is easy enough but does it only mod the fixed channel? My amp has no volume (diy Tripath TA2020) damn..........
donington
26-09-2010, 19:02
Hi, all im new here and could do with some help, i want to put the cl5/cl6 resistors in the beresford 7520 back in to see if it would help to rein in the harsh top end,i did the lm4562 mod which was a huge improvment but after over 2 months of use still had the same problem then i put the an826anz in which again was a worth while change but i still get some harsh treble but not as bad,what i need help with is getting the right resistors and were from.I want to try this before i change my speakers which i think could help they are the monitor audio br2 and with there metal tweeters might not be helping im a novice so please be gentle any help would be great regards keith:)
[QUOTE=donington;152619]Hi, all im new here and could do with some help, i want to put the cl5/cl6 resistors
QUOTE]
Aren't these capacitors?
Hi, all im new here and could do with some help, i want to put the cl5/cl6 resistors in the beresford 7520 back in to see if it would help to rein in the harsh top end,i did the lm4562 mod which was a huge improvment but after over 2 months of use still had the same problem then i put the an826anz in which again was a worth while change but i still get some harsh treble but not as bad,what i need help with is getting the right resistors and were from.I want to try this before i change my speakers which i think could help they are the monitor audio br2 and with there metal tweeters might not be helping im a novice so please be gentle any help would be great regards keith:)
100pf ceramic capacitors
donington
26-09-2010, 20:00
thanks i stand corrected i am a novice at this cheers keith
donington
26-09-2010, 20:03
just had a look and the 100pf ceramic capacitors dont look anything like those which were cut out?
The small bead like yellow things seen in the pic here http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3058
Farnell do them, the legs may need forming into shape for the width of the holes http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/mcrr25101cogj0100/capacitor-100pf-100v/dp/1216416
donington
26-09-2010, 23:12
Thanks leo all sorted now thanks for the help:)
RoboCopper
01-10-2010, 22:50
It would be helpful if you knew what you are considering doing, and whether you have your facts correct.
As a guide:
Murata Power Solutions’ 7805SR-C (5V output), 7812SR-C (12V output).
Consult the Murata datasheet and make sure you know your 5V regulator from your 12V regulator. The 7812SR-C will not work below a 15V input level. So you would have to be in Caiman territory if you want to do this mod and spend that sort of money.
A cheaper solution might have been the Leo mod, but I think he has put that aside due to the complexity of it and the certain electronics skill required. Any slip ups and it's good bye TC-7520.
Stan
Hi, can somebody clear some things for me, please?
As beginner to the world of DIY Hifi, I have my 7520 which is only upgraded with Wolfson WM8716 chip only and I use it in passive mod/e. I am not bothered with opamps any more after hearing passive mod.
Questions:
:scratch:1. Do I need 15v power supply now when I have upgraded to Wolfson chip? (although it works with 12V supply)
:stalks:2. As I plan to upgrade to Murata regs (from above) do I need to change my power supply to 15volts? Will the DAC work?
:rolleyes:3. I do use passive mod, hence do I have to upgrade both murata's 5v and 12v or only 12 volts??? (I mabye plan to obtain new Gator board in future)
:eek:4. If I upgrade all other capacitors to Elna II, will my 7520 become Caiman (just in passive mode), or is there anything else to upgrade?
Thanks for your responses, all the threads are looong reading and it can be very hard to find all the info.
StanleyB
02-10-2010, 06:06
If you intend to do the passive mod, then you only need to upgrade the 5V regulator. You would still need something like the Caiman 15V PSU to correctly power the Murata reg though. And the 10R resistor behind the existing 5V reg should be replaced with a wire link.
If you intend to do the passive mod, then you only need to upgrade the 5V regulator. You would still need something like the Caiman 15V PSU to correctly power the Murata reg though. And the 10R resistor behind the existing 5V reg should be replaced with a wire link.
Oh, haven't done that one. :scratch:
How did I miss that?
Any posts deal with this one Stan?
*I'm running passive mod (no board) with 2 Mutara's and Maplins CBR Linear PSU
Is there any issue with this wire link if I was running 2 film caps, like the ClarityCap ESA's?
Also, if I replace the big black resevoir cap with, say, 2 film caps in parallel or whatever, any issue there?
Whats the advantages of the Wire link mod? Defo worth doing?
ta.
StanleyB
02-10-2010, 07:53
What's that commercial again :scratch:? 'Just do it'.
If I had to explain every technical detail behind some of some mods, my competitors would be able to build their DACs even better ;).
What's that commercial again :scratch:? 'Just do it'.
If I had to explain every technical detail behind some of some mods, my competitors would be able to build their DACs even better ;).
so its worth doing. :)
thanks Stan.
I suspect that resistor behind the reg drops 12V (or 15V) to something like 8V for the 7805 so the 7805 doesn't have to burn off too many volts. As the Murata regs need more volts to work with there's a risk the reg will "drop out" and not regulate properly.
Just guessing....
Its one of those subtle but worthwhile free mods :eyebrows:
If you intend to do the passive mod, then you only need to upgrade the 5V regulator. You would still need something like the Caiman 15V PSU to correctly power the Murata reg though. And the 10R resistor behind the existing 5V reg should be replaced with a wire link.
Do i also have to replace another resistor when i put in the both the 5 and 12 volt Murata's?
StanleyB
18-10-2010, 15:37
Do i also have to replace another resistor when i put in the both the 5 and 12 volt Murata's?
:scratch:. I repeat: remove the resistor behind the 5V reg if fitting the Murata reg.
audionewbi
07-06-2011, 12:40
wow this thread is amazing!!! Now just got to wait till this weekend :(
audionewbi
07-06-2011, 13:17
has anyone tried using this ? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Burson-Audio-Opamp-Kills-OPA2604-AD827-OPA2132-Dual-X2-/120616479266?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1c154d6a22
I can get them cheaper as they are an Australian company. I was thinking using this with my gatorized caiman. : )
RoboCopper
07-06-2011, 14:01
has anyone tried using this ? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Burson-Audio-Opamp-Kills-OPA2604-AD827-OPA2132-Dual-X2-/120616479266?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1c154d6a22
I can get them cheaper as they are an Australian company. I was thinking using this with my gatorized caiman. : )
I always wondered how this would work with Beresford DAC!
I am not only sure how will you conect especaly if you use Caiman and Gator.
Let's us now how it sounds in comparisson with stock Caiman.
audionewbi
07-06-2011, 14:11
I always wondered how this would work with Beresford DAC!
I am not only sure how will you conect especaly if you use Caiman and Gator.
Let's us now how it sounds in comparisson with stock Caiman.
i just read a post where Stan said it is not possible due to power mismatching.
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