PDA

View Full Version : Soldering wires on a tone arm.



Stevejas
29-01-2013, 09:18
Hi bear with me as I'm not really technically minded on things like this.
Hope the pictures work, thanks for looking.

I solderd the wires in order that the wires where on the cart/stylus.
http://i50.tinypic.com/2dabs0j.jpg




Now I'm really stuck can any one help with fixing soldering the wires on a tone arm?
Iv replaced the arms and soldered them I'm not even sure I got the wires solderd to the rite place as when I test them out they sound ok but not good,
This is what I soldered, where the two holes are this is the bottom where it fits onto the tonearm.
http://i49.tinypic.com/1znor39.jpg

would this be due to the wires not being in the rite order?
I don't have a volt meter etc to test anything, does any one know which colour wires go where on the clips at the end of the tone arm for stantons, or are all turntables the same when it comes to putting the rite colour wire on the clips at the end of the tone arm.
This last picture is the end result of me thinking iv done it correctly.
http://i48.tinypic.com/1hw5n5.jpg
http://i46.tinypic.com/2zgwz7b.jpg

Sorry if this has been posted. I couldn't find anything on the forum.

UV101
29-01-2013, 09:20
Can't see the pictures? Could just be me on tapatalk??

Stevejas
29-01-2013, 09:44
Have the pictures worked now, sorry I'm using my phone at the moment.

Stevejas
29-01-2013, 09:48
Ops sorry mods iv seemed to of posted 2 threads by mistake, I tried to edit my first post as I put the pictures up wrong, but some how made another post, sorry wasn't done on purpose.

rusty bearing
29-01-2013, 10:32
Hard to see properly but in the last photo (arm socket) reading clockwise from blue should be blue, green, red, white.
I would do a continuity and resistance check as well. You may find one connection with a high resistance indicating a poorly soldered joint.

Stevejas
29-01-2013, 10:45
Ill try that thanks, also iv just fount out iv only got sound coming from one side of my speakers would this point to bad soldering/two wires being the wrong way around.
So it should go from looking at picture two.... Starting From bottom left blue then green, then top left, red then white.

rusty bearing
29-01-2013, 11:00
Poor joint most likely I think.

In the second pic the blue wire is in the correct position, so is the green. The wire under the green should be red and under the blue should be white.
http://www.soundfountain.com/amb/shellconnect.gif

Rare Bird
29-01-2013, 11:13
I'm lost here, have you soldered the wires on the headshell connection end? if so i don't see the logik behind this!

Stevejas
29-01-2013, 11:19
No sorry its hard for me to explain as I'm not technically in the know about the parts, ill try and explain a little more. See picture 2 I'm trying to solder the 4 color wires that come out of the tone arm, as I had to replace a bent tone arm tube, so I desolderd the 4 wires and now I'm trying to solder them back, I soldered them back allready but I think I've messed up as only sound comes out of one speaker, I'm trying to solder picture two to fit into picture 3 properly, hope this makes sense.
Again sorry for my lack of knowledge

Stevejas
29-01-2013, 11:20
Thank you so much rusty I will try that.
I think you have solved it as in diagram 1 of what you posted, I have blue and green the wrong way around.

Stevejas
29-01-2013, 13:13
Rusty I want your babies :)
Done one turntable again and it sounds excellent again thank you.

Rare Bird
29-01-2013, 14:00
Get yourself a cheap multimeter with continuity bleep for future work, much easier, they are only a few quid.

Beobloke
29-01-2013, 14:28
The other thing to remember when soldering an arm socket like this is ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS use a pair of heat shunt tweezers on each pin as you solder it.

If you don't, and you leave the iron on too long (believe me, it doesn't take much...), the internal plastic that houses the spring for the pin will melt and the pin will lose its springiness. Intermittent contacts will then result as the pins are not pushing against the headshell contacts like they're supposed to when you screw it into place.

Heat shunt tweezers are readily available from electronics shops, however, a long-nose pair of pliers with an elastic band around the handles is generally even easier to come by...

rusty bearing
29-01-2013, 14:48
Sort of, as long as they're connected as in't diagram you'll be right. It can confuse anyone working back to front and upside down etc. best if you make a drawing of stuff before disconnecting then you have something to refer back to...
Of course i always follow my own advice.......yeah right:eyebrows:

Good advice from beobloke as well