View Full Version : My First "Techie" - well part of it!
Bought my first piece of a sl-1200 mkII today - The Top Plate.
Guess I'm building it like Johnny Cash "One Piece at a time". :D
Its in the post, a grubby but intact top plate off eBay. I will be taking the angle grinder to it shortly!
My plan is to build a custom plynth using the basic alloy die casting and back it up with a mix of sand and fibreglass resin. I used this technique on a mkI Dual 505 many years ago, filling the hollow plastic suround this way.
Afterwords it was very heavy, rigid and had all of the plasticy ring taken out of it, sound from the deck improved greatly. I used a lot of sand and only enough resin to bind the granuales - it sets like stone. Too much resin and the sand sinks to the bottom leaving pure resin on the top. Bit like over wet over tampped concrete in that respect. The damping properties are not as good with too much resin added either.
I'm looking for a complete working deck and will be bidding on several as they come up, may get lucky with one. I will transfer components over to the customised job when it is ready.
It will have an external PSU and no buttons, slidders or lights whatsoever on the deck. The pocket for the Tranny will be cut off as it protrudes quite deep. I will reduce the width of the deck cutting up through the pitch fader. this will reduce some of the weight at the right hand side, removing the tranny pocket will add weight to the rear left. The heavy sand/resin mix needs a better distribution of weight or any complient feet used will see huge differences in load and subsiquent compression - It will lean badly.
The tone arm hole will be filled and 3 female threaded inserts set into the cast base, ready to take a "Terminator" linear arm when I can afford one.
My sketch pad is full of ideas ready to try out on the sacrificial toplate, I can't wait to get stuck in.
I will document progress and post it as I go, with the full story available on my website. ;)
Well I made a start on the top plate. Here it is, as purchased off fleabay.
The brown stains are Curry!
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_001.jpg
I also fell lucky for a complete deck, quite local to me. Ex DJ so a lot of use/abuse but the Bearing seems ok, platter runs true and it had a recent new arm.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_002.jpg
I'm enjoying listening to the deck for the time being, till the Modded top is ready at least. Its nice to be able to swap headshells and adjust VTA and Anti skate on the fly, I've never had that luxury. My first impretions of the Techie are that the presentation is a bit bright, I replaced the DJ slip mat with a cork mat and things improved slightly. I set it up initially with an Ortofon 2m Red, I changed this to my trusted Goldring 1042 and the presentation improved. I changed the cartridge alignment from Lofgren "A" to the Technics specific Baerwald alignment found on Vinyl Engine. This made a big difference. A bit of tuning by ear of the VTA and anti skate and it is now sounding very nice indeed.
Ah well, back to the angle grinder! :D
Sounds like an interesting modding project where many things can be tested and discovered. Keep us posted. :)
Very interesting post Ken- do keep us posted with piccies of course:)
Here is an update shot, you can see how the Top Plate is shaping up.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_003.jpg
I've also been playing around with some ideas on bearing mods.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Pics/Tech010.jpg
More to come on this, but I will post the bearing related stuff into the existing thread on DIY Bearing Mods. I'll post the whole thing there when done, keeps it all tidy and easy to find. ;)
By the way Marco I also found the cork mat sapped all the energy and went to a felt mat, much better.
Top work there Ken, keep 'em coming:).
Wakefield Turntables
02-02-2013, 09:28
Ken,
Do you intend to add any internal regulation mods? If so some of the mods you have made to the chassis are going to prohibit this modification.
Andy
Andy - Yes, I realized there would be an issue as some of the regulators make use of the Transformer well etc. I plan on using the KAB external PSU and internal regulator which sits in the same spot as the standard item. I removed the cable entry point features to increase clearance, as I noticed the underside of the KAB circuit board runs pretty close to these (Photo on his site). I can't really afford some of the more exotic PSU/Regulator options available and with my very basic electrical knowledge, decideded this ready made soloution and its price point fitted the bill. I think you also have to consider just how much you want to spend on this modest little deck?
The laws of deminishing returns etc. So I am balancing price/improvements with a keen eye. I hope to improve the deck substantially over standard but know from the start, I will not be going for the ultimate that is achievable for every component. Hopefully I will achieve a good balance of performance levels with no one area recieving to much attention and drain on the overall budget.
I have also fixed the type of arm to be used. This deck will only accomodate a Trans-Fi "Terminator" linear tracking arm, no other.
Thanks for spotting and raising that issue, this is my first Technics and I don't want to make an obvious blunder, so any guidence is well received. :)
Wakefield Turntables
02-02-2013, 11:02
No worries mate:cool: I can understand your development cycle. How are you modifying the rubber plinth? I only ask because I have been planning an alternate plinth for ages and still not got round to doing anything about it :lol:
jagdesign
02-02-2013, 11:19
Looking good Ken, look forward to seeing more on your bearing mod!
Andy (plinth) by putting it in the bin!
The only original part of the superstructure I will be using is the Top Plate. I am casting a mixture of sand and fibreglass resin into the back of it. This will make it about 90mm thick, very heavy and inert as long as you keep the resin qty to the minimum required to bind the sand. It sets like stone.
The problem with just mounting the top plate on a slab of tree or whatever is the minamal contact area, this applies to the original rubber as well. By casting and sticking to the whole underside of the Top Plate it becomes one with the artificial sandstone block.
I won't really be binning it, I will have much of the original deck left over and plan on building this back up as a deck for my Girlfriend, in almost standard form. (strobe, cue light and pitch fader removed and a paint job)
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_010.jpg
I’ve completed the bearing mods as above. See the story, which I’ve added to Ians thread “Can you improve the stock techie bearing???” at this location:
http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?p=413503#post413503
Wakefield Turntables
15-02-2013, 19:56
Ken,
Cant wait to see the new plinth and it looks like your quite handy with the bearing as well. The sonics of the 1210 may be altered significantly with your solution. I think most of us have the standard rubber / aluminium plinths. But, you could say that all people with modded 1210's have signficantly changed how there decks sound. ;)
Hi Andrew,
I'm hoping for something substantial, just hope it is an improvement and not a degraded sound, not every mod works the way you want. I've had my share of failures but have high hopes for this one.
I will be coupling the base of the bearing to the plinth with the old Blue Tak method. There is exactly 2mm clearance so a pea size piece should spread nicely.
Back on track after the divertion for the bearing and getting ready to cast the plinth. Put the M6 threaded inserts in place for securing the tonearm. I used the threaded connectors that are for joining lengths of threaded bar or studding. I dropped in a couple of Aluminium tubes as tunnels for the cabling. I made use of all the redundant screw bosses, I used a large washer and screw to create lots of Mushroom head anchor points for the casting to latch on to.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_012.jpg
Just waiting for the sand to dry out now, it has to be bone dry before adding the Polyester resin.
Wakefield Turntables
07-03-2013, 16:03
Ken, this has to be seen to be believed :eek: smart touch with the aluminium tubing its going to give excellent rfi and Emi coverage to your cables.
Thanks Andrew,
nearly ready for casting. I've got a bad cold at the moment, but think I might be ok for the weekend. The sand is layed out on a big tray, approx 1m square. I keep raking it over and have a fan heater blowing accross it, but it is still taking time. I am a bit concerned about the mass, I am casting 9 Litres or there abouts and 80mm thick at the deepest points in the corners. The resin builds up heat when it is curing and a large mass tends to amplify this effect.
The last time I did this type of thing (20 years ago) the plinthe got so hot that it was smoking. I will be very carefull metering out the catalist this time. I think I gave it a shot for good measure last time, not being sure how it would set with such a large ratio of sand to resin and over did it.
You may have noticed I have not put any inserts in the corners for feet. I decided to stick simple Sorbothane semispheres directly on to the base. They are the best isolators I have come accross.
I came up with a design for adjustable feet using 50mm dia sorbothane feet. these were to be stuck to platforms attached to 1" threaded stainless bar. This would screw into captive 1" nuts in the casting and be adjusted from the top face of the top plate by a small allen key inserted through a hole in each corner. The 1" bar would have a small allen grub screw permanantly fixed in the end to take this. The problem with many adjustable feet is the threaded portion is too small a diameter and they need lock nuts to take up the chatter in the threads. By using 1" dia threads you can fill the thread with silicone sealant. When this dries and you insert the thread into the nut, it acts like a lock nut, stiff to turn but it has no chatter, stays where you set it and does not require additional lock nuts, which are allways difficult to get at. (ones at the back etc).
I decided not to go this route, my thinking was that all the extra metal work was likely to give a coupling path between the alloy top and the feet. So the simpler option seemed more appropriate. I will have to level the table it sits on but thats no big deal.
Wakefield Turntables
07-03-2013, 19:32
Sounds great so far, well done mate. ;)
Well that was a total disaster!
After 24hrs the resin sand mix had not set in the middle. It just had a 10mm thick crust which was rock hard, the rest was still soft enough to push your finger into. I used 2.4 L of resin/catalyst to 12 L of sharp sand. I know increasing the qty of resin will set but won't be as inert. My small test blocks were obviously setting like the skin that had formed and were not large enough to give a true representation, oh well, on to plan B.
I cleaned up the top plate, got all the gooey sand mix off with Acetone.
Salvaged the timber for the mould suround.
I will be returning to old faithfull and casting it in concrete instead. I nearly did this in the first place. Will have to coat the back with PVA for a good bond and add it to the mix. Got the materials lying around so will be doing this over the next couple of days.
I cast the plinth in concrete.
Worked well, just waiting for it to dry out fully before I start filling any suface inperfections.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_014.jpg
Must order some Walnut veneer.
Filling the imperfections in the concrete with Chemical Metal.
Weight of bare plinth gone up from 1.66Kg to 19.25Kg.
Ordered 50mm dia Sorbothane feet (handle up to 40Kg accross set of four).
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_015.jpg
Veneer on its way. :)
Filling the imperfections in the concrete with Chemical Metal.
Weight of bare plinth gone up from 1.66Kg to 19.25Kg.
Ordered 50mm dia Sorbothane feet (handle up to 40Kg accross set of four).
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_015.jpg
Veneer on its way. :)
:stalks::popcorn:
jagdesign
19-03-2013, 20:49
nooooooo, don't veneer it!
:lol::lol::lol: I've decided to go all retro with this deck so the top and sides will be American Black Walnut veneer. This will be finished with Danish Oil.
I am bored with paint, I finished my last two belt drive decks in Black paint, one in piano gloss the other in satin. They pick up dust really easy so I guess I am looking for easy maintenance, plus I will be using the same veneer on the concrete cabinets for my Tannoy Cheviots, when I get round to them, still not finished my battery powered MC phono stage yet.
Applied the veneer to the sides.
Painted the base and applied the Feet.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_016.jpg
Applied the veneer to the top, it took a lot of heat as the alloy drew all the heat away, used an iron set to Max, with a hot air paint stripping gun to help out.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_017.jpg
I had made templates for the cable entry and tonearm mounting holes, so I could find them when cutting through the veneer. Gave it a trim and a light sanding.
I’m ready to start the cosmetic work on the motor cavity now. Had to leave this till the veneer was down, as a test on the piece of die casting I trimmed off, proved a lot of heat was needed and any paint I applied might blister, so left it till now. ;)
costerdock
27-03-2013, 16:09
Man you are an artist - beautiful work - keep the updates coming!
Man you are an artist - beautiful work - keep the updates coming!
+1 :wow:
Wakefield Turntables
27-03-2013, 17:42
Good stuff so far. I noticed you did the same intrinsic mod as myself where I filled all the screw holes in. I did this to strengthen the sub-plinth and try and reduce resonance. Good luck with this, looking cool.
Ken- that looks stunning- can you do mine for me:eek:
Thanks everyone for the thumbs up.
Still a lot of work to get the finish right. I was going to use Danish Oil on the Walnut, but now I am thinking of using Tung Oil.
Anyone out there with any Pros and Cons on these finishing methods?
I've just picked through the YouTube clips and like the idea of the Tung oil as an easily repairable and natural type of finish which will make the Walnut grain "Pop" with a rich deep colour.
walpurgis
27-03-2013, 22:45
Interesting project. Unorthodox that's for sure, but it's looking good! Just don't drop it on your foot :)
Finished the motor well, in acid etch primer.
This keys in to the aluminium, is corrosion resistant and has a nice satin black finish.
You can see the three extra screws I allowed for, they go in to threaded inserts I placed in the concrete, I'll use them to tie down the wiring.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_018.jpg
I tried a simple test prior to painting. I put my ear to the top of the deck, just above the front right foot. I then rapped hard on the table, next to that foot, with my knuckle. Nothing could be heard on the top of the deck, so the feet and concrete are doing their job.
Fantastic work, Ken! I'm following your progress with great interest... What arm and cartridge are you planning to fit, and what are your plans with regard to an off-board PSU? :)
Marco.
julesd68
28-03-2013, 19:17
Totally droolworthy :drool:
If you do decide to take "orders" we'll be queuing up ...
Hi Marco - The deck is specifically designed to take a Trans-Fi "Terminator" linear tracker.
The threaded insert configuration is to suit this. Vic at Trans-Fi was kind enough to loan me a non working arm so I could get the bolt pattern spot on. What a fantastic thing to do. Must remember to return it when I have taken some shots of it in place.
I am going to mount a new Denon DL-301 II LOMC that I bought for the job.
Most of my vinyl is second hand and this cartridge has a reputation I can confirm, of ignoring minor surface noise and ticks, it sounds good too.
I am building HypnoToads battery powered MC phono stage to work with this and I'm 3/4 complete, just have the case to finish/paint and fit the PCB wiring etc.
I am initially going to use the stock PSU mounted in the same box that Frankyc2003 used in his visual guide. The diference will be that I am mounting the original Start/stop and 33/45 buttons on the top face (space permitting). I will have the cables conected via XLR sockets. Eventually I plan on using the KAB DC-1200 and its in deck regulator as a budget concious soloution. ;)
julesd68
28-03-2013, 19:51
Vic at Trans-Fi was kind enough to loan me a non working arm so I could get the bolt pattern spot on. What a fantastic thing to do.
Doesn't surprise me at all - Vic is a most helpful chap indeed ...
Hi Marco - The deck is specifically designed to take a Trans-Fi "Terminator" linear tracker.
The threaded insert configuration is to suit this. Vic at Trans-Fi was kind enough to loan me a non working arm so I could get the bolt pattern spot on. What a fantastic thing to do. Must remember to return it when I have taken some shots of it in place.
I am going to mount a new Denon DL-301 II LOMC that I bought for the job.
Most of my vinyl is second hand and this cartridge has a reputation I can confirm, of ignoring minor surface noise and ticks, it sounds good too.
I am building HypnoToads battery powered MC phono stage to work with this and I'm 3/4 complete, just have the case to finish/paint and fit the PCB wiring etc.
I am initially going to use the stock PSU mounted in the same box that Frankyc2003 used in his visual guide. The diference will be that I am mounting the original Start/stop and 33/45 buttons on the top face (space permitting). I will have the cables conected via XLR sockets. Eventually I plan on using the KAB DC-1200 and its in deck regulator as a budget concious soloution. ;)
Very interesting, Ken... I particularly like your thinking outside of the box and how you've chosen your own path with the mods for your Techy, not to mention your fantastic attention to detail! :youtheman:
I'd love to have a listen to your T/T when it's finished and compare it with mine, and so hope that you wouldn't mind having a visitor? :)
Marco.
Sure Marco give me time to finish everything and get it all dialled in and you would be more than welcome.
Nice one - I'll defo take you up on that, Ken, as executing a judicious plinth mod would be the final part of my Techy journey! :cool:
Marco.
:)Lovely job that Ken- when can you do my Techie?
Much as I would like to make a bunch of these, my kitchen is not up to starting a production line. :lol:
Settled on Danish oil for the finish and got the first coat on. There is a technique I came accross on YouTube using this for grain filling. Once the first coat has had 24hrs to dry you rub it down with 600 grit wet and dry using some more Danish Oil. You work it up to a paste and scrape off the excess with a piece of card etc. Go accross the grain and it leaves the holes filled with the Oil/wood paste, this gives a perfect match as you are filling it with the same wood. I tried it this morning and it works a treat. My own slant on this was to also have a spare piece of veneer on a scrap board and work up some past off this and then apply it to any deep grain or bits I had missed. I used a business card to apply the paste.
This will now need another 24hrs to dry and then several coates of oil to build the finish, with the same interval between each. I won't bore you with successive pictures of the process, I'll just do a bunch of the finished article.
Much as I would like to make a bunch of these, my kitchen is not up to starting a production line. :lol:
Settled on Danish oil for the finish and got the first coat on. There is a technique I came accross on YouTube using this for grain filling. Once the first coat has had 24hrs to dry you rub it down with 600 grit wet and dry using some more Danish Oil. You work it up to a paste and scrape off the excess with a piece of card etc. Go accross the grain and it leaves the holes filled with the Oil/wood paste, this gives a perfect match as you are filling it with the same wood. I tried it this morning and it works a treat. My own slant on this was to also have a spare piece of veneer on a scrap board and work up some past off this and then apply it to any deep grain or bits I had missed. I used a business card to apply the paste.
This will now need another 24hrs to dry and then several coates of oil to build the finish, with the same interval between each. I won't bore you with successive pictures of the process, I'll just do a bunch of the finished article.
You would not be boring us Ken- we need piccies.:)
Ok then, here is the veneer after the grain filling, it dulled down when this was done.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Pics/T_034.jpg
The oil darkened the Walnut when it was wetted, though its hard to tell in the bright light outside.
:stalks::stalks::stalks::stalks:
Gave another oil wet sanding after the grain filling using 800 grit, then applied the first finishing coat of the Danish Oil, the grain is rely starting to get depth to it and has that flip flop change of colour when you view it at different angles. For some reason, it looks darker in the flesh than in the pictures, especially under artificial light.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Pics/T_036.jpg
I used “Liberon” Superior Danish Oil – This has UV protection built in, which most Danish oils don’t have. I used the natural finish, without any tinting stain added. The oil is straw coloured and the consistancy of white spirit, just wipe it on with a lint free cloth.
RobbieGong
31-03-2013, 16:11
Boy is that looking good !!! If it also does give the Techie something 'special' over the stock plinth in terms of sonics then you are going to be a very busy man with offers and requests for one of these coming from all angles :eek: ;)
Congratulations Ken - your plinth looks fantastic. I guess you'll need to re-apply a coat or two of Danish Oil every few months to keep that level of finish as veneer isn't really thick enough to absorb enough oil. Can't wait to see the finished turntable and your comments on its performance. Top job. :clap:
Keith - I'm new to the oiling process but my brief research seemed to sugest that Danish Oil is based on the ancient Tung Oil extracted from the nut. I believe it also has about 20% varnish in its make up, so the finish may be more durable than a straight oil. See Wikipedea entry: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danish_oil
I am still expecting to have to re-coat but whether this is once a year or more I do not know. Do you have any experience of Danish oil?
The Grand Wazoo
31-03-2013, 21:32
The finish is durable, but only if you buff the bejeezus out of the final coat. Much pressure, elbow grease and clean buffing cloth is required.
Also, watch how you store and dispose of all the cloths you use to apply it because they can spontaneously combust.
Ok, thanks for that Chris. ;)
Brilliant job, That more concrete and sorbothane than my Rock.
Canetoad
01-04-2013, 10:23
Congratulations Ken - your plinth looks fantastic. I guess you'll need to re-apply a coat or two of Danish Oil every few months to keep that level of finish as veneer isn't really thick enough to absorb enough oil. Can't wait to see the finished turntable and your comments on its performance. Top job. :clap:
My DIY speakers are veneered and Danish oiled and are 15 years old and still going fine. I give them some furniture polish once every couple of years. :)
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/9115/20120222shit0177.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/837/20120222shit0177.jpg/)
Thanks for the tip and nice job Bernie :clap:
At this point I am turning my attention to the PSU. I am mounting the stock unit in a Maplins ABS enclosure, I pinched the idea off Francois in his visual guide to housing the PSU externally,
http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=22954
so I knew it would fit. The difference with mine is I have mounted the Start/Stop and 33/45 switch block in the roof of the box.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_019.jpg
The switch block is 1mm narrower than the inside of the case, so it’s a tight fit but I think it looks made for the job.
I covered the moulding feed point scar with the badge off the turntable lid. With this hidden I think the case looks much higher quality.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_020.jpg
I glued in the grommets for the cable exit holes. These are the type used to tidy satellite cable when it goes through the wall. The tubes that I had cast into the concrete were sized to suit these grommets.
The spare stock bearing I had was bolted in as a temporary measure.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_021.jpg
I tried the platter for fit and bolted on the non working "Terminator" Tonearm, which I had kindly been loaned by Trans-Fi Audio, to establish the correct location for the fixings.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_022.jpg
The Veneer has had five coats of Danish Oil and surprisingly, has quite a high level of gloss. You can get a feel for the overall look of the deck now. I won't transfer the electronics from the sacrificial deck until I have purchased a Terminator Arm. This will allow me to use the stock deck up to that point, which I am quite enjoying.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_023.jpg
As soon as I have saved enough and purchased the Tonearm I will do the electrical transfer. :cool:
edit: I purchased a seperate second hand switch block for the PSU.
Certainly looking good Ken.
Well done.
Yep - it just gets better!
One of the very best 'bodges' I've ever seen and should be easy to fit new bearings etc should you ever decide to later on. Well done and I hope it does the job sonically too when finished :)
David - my take on bearing mods can be found at post #12 of this thread.
Frankyc2003
03-04-2013, 19:30
This is just getting better and better!
The veneer is superb!
Droooooool!
I can't wait to read your findings on how it all sounds in the end!
:eyebrows:
Wakefield Turntables
03-04-2013, 19:32
i love the PSU, the deck is very minimal in design, it looks great.
Seems ages since I updated the progress.
Been waiting for a damn on/off switch. The first supplier said he posted one but it never arrived, so that was two weeks wasted. Took a week for a different supplier to deliver. Farnell had one but they have a £20 minimum order. Finally got it sorted.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_025.jpg
The on/off switch and mini XLR connectors are mounted in the upper half of the case. The Power output socket has a ground lead attached to its body.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_026.jpg
The PSU mounted in the case. I've left room at the rear of the transformer for the mini XLR connectors. The wires on the left, terminating in spade connectors, attach to the on/off switch in the upper part of the case.
The bare wires top right, will be soldered to the mini XLR power output socket, prior to closing the case up. The grounding post to the left of these wires is the drain for the power output screening ground and is attached to the earth wire of the 3 core mains input cable.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_027.jpg
Case closed up. The base has had some stick on feet applied.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_028.jpg
Rear of the case showing the 2 and 5 way connectors.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_029.jpg
Front showing the DPST Latching push button used as the on/off switch.
I used a double pole switch to completely disconnect the unit from the mains supply when switched off.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_030.jpg
Bearing and circuit board fixed in position.
The screw positions for the back to back "P" clips used as cable restraints, worked out well.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_031.jpg
Replaced the 470uf cap at C1 with a 1000uf.
The power cable I used is screened. The conductors look thin compared to what some folks have used but its the same cross sectional area as the originals and will handle three times the start up current even with an upgraded (Heavier) platter. Will add a ferrite ring as close as possible to the end of the lead when it arrives.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_032.jpg
It powered up ok! Pheeeeeeeeew!
No need for a power on light as the speed selected light (LED) does the same job. A mains neon would only add noise so best avoided anyway.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_033.jpg
That's a welcome sight. The slip mat is only fitted to show the motion in the shot.
Recon the recapping of the board is next if Ian puts some kits together, following that thread with intrest. :cool:
Looking very nice :D
With respect to the capacitor kits, I'll post on that thread in a bit. Hopefully I'll get sorted and do a couple of kits before I go on my hols next Friday.
Looking forward to that Ian, don't forget to post as many pictures and diagrams as possible to guide us non electrical folk through the process. :eyebrows:
Rare Bird
17-05-2013, 19:42
That looks good Ken. Nice bit of American Black Walnut ?
Yep, Black Walnut with a Danish Oil finish, covers the concrete nicely :D
stairpost
17-05-2013, 21:20
Wow! That looks like an amazing bit of work. Nicely done!
Very, very impressive. I am in awe.
Can you do me one in a white finish? ;)
Seems ages since I updated the progress.
Been waiting for a damn on/off switch. The first supplier said he posted one but it never arrived, so that was two weeks wasted. Took a week for a different supplier to deliver. Farnell had one but they have a £20 minimum order. Finally got it sorted.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_025.jpg
The on/off switch and mini XLR connectors are mounted in the upper half of the case. The Power output socket has a ground lead attached to its body.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_026.jpg
The PSU mounted in the case. I've left room at the rear of the transformer for the mini XLR connectors. The wires on the left, terminating in spade connectors, attach to the on/off switch in the upper part of the case.
The bare wires top right, will be soldered to the mini XLR power output socket, prior to closing the case up. The grounding post to the left of these wires is the drain for the power output screening ground and is attached to the earth wire of the 3 core mains input cable.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_027.jpg
Case closed up. The base has had some stick on feet applied.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_028.jpg
Rear of the case showing the 2 and 5 way connectors.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_029.jpg
Front showing the DPST Latching push button used as the on/off switch.
I used a double pole switch to completely disconnect the unit from the mains supply when switched off.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_030.jpg
Bearing and circuit board fixed in position.
The screw positions for the back to back "P" clips used as cable restraints, worked out well.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_031.jpg
Replaced the 470uf cap at C1 with a 1000uf.
The power cable I used is screened. The conductors look thin compared to what some folks have used but its the same cross sectional area as the originals and will handle three times the start up current even with an upgraded (Heavier) platter. Will add a ferrite ring as close as possible to the end of the lead when it arrives.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_032.jpg
It powered up ok! Pheeeeeeeeew!
No need for a power on light as the speed selected light (LED) does the same job. A mains neon would only add noise so best avoided anyway.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_033.jpg
That's a welcome sight. The slip mat is only fitted to show the motion in the shot.
Recon the recapping of the board is next if Ian puts some kits together, following that thread with intrest. :cool:
Ken, that looks double nice!:popcorn::popcorn::)
Thanks for the compliments, really enjoying this project. :)
Thanks for the compliments, really enjoying this project. :)
As are we mate:trust:
I have an engineers stethoscope that is used for listening to bearings and rumble in engines etc. Its remarkable what it picks up.
I have used this in the past to listen to both a Thorens TD-150 top plate and a Rega deck fitted with a P5 motor. In both cases I could hear the motor/bearing quite distinctly.
I listened to the Techie and applied the probe directly to the M6 Inserts which accept the Tonearm. These are attached to the back of the top plate and cast into the concrete. It was completely silent even on 45 rpm.
I tried listening all over the top surface and there is nothing there. Very pleased about that and it's promising for when I attach the Linear tracker direct to this surface. Then again, the air cusion that the arm carying sled floats on, does tend to insulate the arm from the outside world anyway.
Just attached a couple of Ferrites to the cables entering the main PCB.
I put my ear to the PSU case and there is a slight Hum from the Tranny, so it is best out of the deck.
Here is where I placed the Ferrite cylinders.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Pics/T_057.jpg
Wakefield Turntables
20-05-2013, 11:34
Great thanks, I have a few spare at home so I might have a crack!
Here is where I placed the Ferrite cylinders.
Hi Ken,
Interesting idea... Did you hear any difference? :)
Marco.
Wakefield Turntables
02-06-2013, 19:44
Hi Ken,
Interesting idea... Did you hear any difference? :)
Marco.
Marco,
This is not a new idea you know and yes you do notice a difference albeit a small one. You might want to try some on the internal regs that you have installed as well. ;) Again i noticed a small improvement, but all these small improvements help!
A
Hi Marco - I still havn't bought my arm so can not try anything out. (Ferrites)
Like Andrew says though, this is a fairly common thing to do with very slight improvements through filtering out any interference coming down the line. A lot of USB devices, laptop PSU's etc use them for this reason. As they are cheap as chips its worth putting them in just for piece of mind.
I should be ordering my linear tracking arm in the next week or so, I don't know what the lead time is but look forward to putting everything to the test. :D
Cheers, chaps. No harm in trying it next time I lift up her skirt!
Marco.
Finished my DIY battery powered Phono stage to go with the deck.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/HTMCPS/AD797_008.jpg
Its based around "HypnoToads" AD797 project over on AK. This link will take you to my build which is post #327 of the thread.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=501186&page=22
Wakefield Turntables
18-06-2013, 07:39
Been meaning to catch up with this thread how is the old girl sounding?
Still not bought the linear tracking arm Andrew, so can not test it.
It is a major purchase for me and I am saving hard, almost there, will be ordering it soon.
Wakefield Turntables
18-06-2013, 13:06
No worries mate in your own time :)
Lovely job so far, Ken.
Is there a particular reason you hanker after a linear tracker?
I am going for the linear Tracker for a couple of reasons.
First - The Terminator is one of the best arms available at any price and represents huge value for money. There are some pretty exotic turntables and cartridges teamed up with it.
Second - Just look at all the threads on set up problems with convensional arms. Whether it be the offset angle, anti skate, or even which alignment method to use in the first place. The Technics standard arm is very fussy and will not work with Baerwald at all. I ended up having to draw up my own protractor using the Technics specific values before I could get an album to play without Inner groove distortion.
The linear tracker has fewer variables and the arguments that the stylus is running at the angle at which the record was cut and the same angle for the whole record are relevant.
The Terminator differs from many linear trackers in that it has different bearing methods for horizontal and vertical movement.
It has a sled that floats on air for horizontal movement. For the up/down action it has pin point pivots attached to the sled and a short arm running on these see saw fashion, earlier versions used knife edge pivots like SME.
It gets great reviews and there are a few fitted to SL-1200's which by all acounts team up well.
I get all the benefits of linear tracking. However, there are probably as many (albeit different) problems with designing and setting up a linear tracker as there are pivoted arms. From my experiences of hearing the Terminator first hand, it is incredibly difficulty to get it perfectly levelled up and is very sensitivity to its surroundings and external vibrations. You also need to go to some lengths to feed it an air pressure supply that is noise-free and lacking in pressure pulses.
Good luck with the project and keep us all informed.
Not true, there very easy to level, ive not noticed any issues at all with external vibration, the opposite if anything and as for air, a simple aquarium pump fed through any kind of smoothing tank (a bottle or pipe) removes the pulses.
They feel a bit more finiky than pivoting arms, but in reality there simple to use and live with.
Ive been building DIY air arms for years but a friend of mine has been using vics arms for just as long and currently uses vics complete rim drive idler TT.
In theory, they shouldnt sound good. The loop between bearing/platter/cartridge/arm should be as stiff as possible. Great lengths are gone to in conventional arms to remove any kind of slop or free play in the bearings without introducing any hint of binding or stiction. Not only should this loop be as stiff as possible it should also contain as few physical material junctions as possible.
Adding an air gap to all this should ruin everything.
But it doesn't!
For some reason it works, very well, ill never go back to pivoting arms again :)
Air arms just have a different set of set up considerations and as these considerations are so different to what were used to it can seem problematic at first but after a short time playing with them it all starts to feel quite normal :)
Martin - your concerns were the same as mine when I first considered a linear tracker.
But Graeme's comments seem to be reflected by many users of Vic's arm, in as much as they say it is easy to set up and free of any hiss or vibration from the air supply. If pulses or iratic presure delivery was a problem, there are ways of dealing with this, as for any air supply. Vic loaned me a non working proto type to help locate my fixing points and I found the adjustments very easy to operate. I don't think the set up is any more complex than a pivot arm, just a bit different and requires getting used to. I hope I am right on that point. The arm is fully adjustable, so tweaking Azimuth for instance is quite easy.
I just love the logic of following a track in a similar way to how it was produced.
Like my approach to the plinth, I have gone for an unconventional soloution. We will have to wait and see if the combo works. ;)
I know all about unconventional solutions - see the Dynavector arm for 'outside-of-the-box' thinking.
Hope the Terminator proves a good match for you.
Ive never heard the dynavector arm but just went and looked at their web site.
Interesting arm.
Funnily enough, its main difference from 'normal' , having a larger effective mass in the horrizontal plane and low mass in the vertical, Described in this section of their web site................
"Bi-axis inertia separation" may sound complex but it simply refers to a tone arm having two arms which operate independently in the horizontal and vertical planes. In contrast, a conventional tonearm has only one arm which moves both horizontally and vertically. This is called a gimbal type tonearm and the inertia for both planes is the same.
The DV507 bi-axis tone arm has a large inertia for horizontal movement and a very small inertia for vertical movement. We shall now explain the reasons why this is advantageous.
It is well known that a cartridge generates an audio signal by the differential motion between the cantilever and the cartridge body. Consequently, if the supporting point of the cartridge (the tonearm) vibrates, the tonearm motion affects the audio signal.
In these conditions, the signal, which causes the tonearm to vibrate is of low frequency and large amplitude.
In the currently used 45-45 stereo record cutting procedure, low frequency signals are almost entirely recorded in a horizontal direction. This means that the low frequency signal, which can cause vibration in the tone arm, exists only as a horizontal force.
The tonearm therefore must have sufficient effective mass and rigidity in the horizontal plane in order to provide a stable platform for the cartridge.
On the other hand, for the mid to high frequencies, the effective mass of the tonearm should not be too large since the combined mass of the cartridge and the head shell need to be taken into account as well. In particular, where records have a warped surface, the vertical effective mass needs to be small enough to ensure a good tracking ability on such surfaces.
To summarise, the tone arm should have a large effective mass and enough damping in the horizontal plane and at the same time a small effective mass in the vertical plane.
Is exactly what is achieved by linear air bearing arms.
Not got any point here, just an interesting observation. People always go on about this difference in effective mass in air arms as being bad, but dynavector dissagree strongly enough to go to great lengths to design an arm that way.
Vics arms also achieve this, but as a bi product :)
Whats the dynavector like? I guess its pretty damm good?
Yeh I've allways liked the look of the dynavector simply for the amount of engineering and craftsmanship it exudes.
The DV is a superb example of lateral thinking. I love its engineering sense but the proof is in the listening and I think it's rather special. It's certainly a world class tracker of highly warped records (where my old SME IV used to just give up).
Do you think its tracking ability is due to its differing horizontal and vertical mass?
Im wondering if maybe this mass thing is one of the main factors in why these linear arms work so well.
Maybe the linear tracking part of it isnt so important and the mass aspect is.
Would be very interesting to compare the two, ill have a look around the net and see if anyone already has.
Do you think its tracking ability is due to its differing horizontal and vertical mass?
Yes, definitely. Both linear trackers and the Dynavector have the same characteristic of high lateral mass and low vertical mass.
It makes for a very structural and deeply extended bass - for the reason that the cartridge is held vice-like so that the stylus accurately tracks the groove.
WOStantonCS100
29-07-2013, 20:36
If I was going to go pivoted (and there was such a beast, perhaps there is?) a 12" Dynavector would be my first (and probably last choice). Having lived with one of Vic's Terminators for the past 2+ years, my ears can't deny the difference tangential/linear tracking makes and I've given up thinking about any other way to track a record. Many things are still up in the air; but, my search for a tonearm is over. It's jaw dropping, really. On LPs that aren't knackered, I often completely forget that the last song is playing, so complete is the lack of IGD or pinched sound. I simply can't tell where on the record I am and this is with finicky Shibata and line contact styli; however, all carts/styli seem to be at there best in this arm. I haven't found one yet that doesn't sound better in this arm, low compliance, high compliance, 1.5g vtf to 3.5 vtf. All sound as good as they are able. Set up is different; but, easier. There is no obsessing over Lofgren A, Lofgren B, Baerwald, Stephenson or any other alignment protractor. There's no need for a jig. Draw a straight line, or use the cheap as chips Shure alignment guide. Simples. The air pump and home-made smoothing tank were cheap, too, and easy to implement. (I went the extra mile and put my pump in the attic.) I have a crawl space and yet I have no issues with vibration/feedback. VTA - adjustable. VTF - adjustable. Azimuth - adjustable. Etc. Most importantly, the full spectrum of sound is presented without omissions... not overblown in the midrange or bass, not shrill in the treble. The downside of this arm is one to consider, though. If the recording on the LP is crap, if the grooves have been wrecked already... Vic's terminator isn't going to lie about it; won't gloss 'em over. It's just going to play what's there and do it brilliantly. I'm looking forward to many more years with this arm; intoxicating. It's about the best money I've spent on audio gear regardless of price, including my valve gear and hi-def recorder. :)
Bif - seeing pictures of your SL-1200/Terminator project around the web and reading your impression of it was a major factor in my decision, so thanks for that.
WOStantonCS100
29-07-2013, 22:25
Bif - seeing pictures of your SL-1200/Terminator project around the web and reading your impression of it was a major factor in my decision, so thanks for that.
:o You're welcome, Ken. And, may I say, I'm trying to stay firm in my decision to get Maggies; but, you guys with Tannoys are making that difficult. :lol:
(And just to affirm Martin's choice of pivoted arm, as if he really needed me to, that Dynavector is pretty crackin' !! The irony is that both the Dynavector and the Terminator will be shunned by many simply for their purposeful/mechanical appearance, which I understand. They are most definitely angular; but, the sound... ... ...)
walpurgis
29-07-2013, 23:02
I'm trying to stay firm in my decision to get Maggies; but, you guys with Tannoys are making that difficult
It's a very, very different sound between the two. I'd try and get a listen somewhere If I were you. I'm a Tannoy fan, but admit, the Maggies are a good speaker. The smaller ones don't have much at the bottom, the rule being 'the bigger the better'! (much the same applies to all dipole speakers)
I completed my PCB and LM317 Regulator upgrade as per 6L6’s thread.
http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?26620-SL-1200-DC-Power-Supply-DIY/page7
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk//Project_Images/PCB/PCB_014.jpg
I made a pair as I have two Technics Turntable projects in development.
The board locates using the stock screws and spring clip for the regulator. I would need to use an Aluminium spacer and longer screws on a stock deck, to raise the board above the level of the main cable entry aperture, the raised lip on this aperture will short out the tracks on the PCB otherwise as they overlap. I removed this feature on my deck so it’s not a problem for me here.
If you are interested in how you make a PCB you can see how I made this, my first effort, here:
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/////PCB_HTML/PCB_Thumbs.html
I completed the PSU pcb which was also follows 6L6’s schematic.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Pics/PSU_004.jpg
The pair were installed and work well together giving a stable supply under load.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_041.jpg
That's what it looks like with the regulator in place and the platter off.
The ground lead from the regulator is connected to the main grounding point on the PCB which is at the fixing screw at the bottom left of the board. The input lead (Red) for the regulator is connected to "J1" and the output (White) is connected to "J3". Note that "J2" is not used.
The remote PSU box still uses the stock transformer but my PCB has been installed. The stock rectifier and a pair of caps was removed from the main PCB in the TT as part of the installation.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_042.jpg
Close up you can see the insulator needed underneath the LM317.
I'm using the stock retaining clip and screws, but note I have removed the TT cable entry point, if you have this feature you will need a spacer to lift the board clear.
The PSU modifications have been a massive deviation from my planned development schedule, but worth the effort. The Terminator Linear tracking arm was delivered last week so the finishing post is in sight. :D
I've opted to wire the cartridge staight through to the phono stage using Vics silver wire option and also use a prototype fixed head arm assembly he is developing for the Terminator.
The arm is on it's way! Fantastic news!
I'm really interested to find out how it all works. I have a suspicion that you will have a stunningly good turntable when you are finished with it. Able to compete with any comers. Any. :)
And just to affirm Martin's choice of pivoted arm, as if he really needed me to, that Dynavector is pretty crackin' !! The irony is that both the Dynavector and the Terminator will be shunned by many simply for their purposeful/mechanical appearance, which I understand. They are most definitely angular; but, the sound... ... ...
Heh, heh, I actually like the purposeful looks. However, it is the sound that captures you with the Dynavector arm.
The DV is a simply a master statement of engineering excellence :)
Marco.
I completed the PSU pcb which was also follows 6L6’s schematic.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Pics/PSU_004.jpg
The pair were installed and work well together giving a stable supply under load.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_041.jpg
That's what it looks like with the regulator in place and the platter off.
The ground lead from the regulator is connected to the main grounding point on the PCB which is at the fixing screw at the bottom left of the board. The input lead (Red) for the regulator is connected to "J1" and the output (White) is connected to "J3". Note that "J2" is not used.
The remote PSU box still uses the stock transformer but my PCB has been installed. The stock rectifier and a pair of caps was removed from the main PCB in the TT as part of the installation.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_042.jpg
Close up you can see the insulator needed underneath the LM317.
I'm using the stock retaining clip and screws, but note I have removed the TT cable entry point, if you have this feature you will need a spacer to lift the board clear.
The PSU modifications have been a massive deviation from my planned development schedule, but worth the effort. The Terminator Linear tracking arm was delivered last week so the finishing post is in sight. :D
I've opted to wire the cartridge staight through to the phono stage using Vics silver wire option and also use a prototype fixed head arm assembly he is developing for the Terminator.
Ken- that work looks amazing!:eek:
Thanks Tarzan - Its funny but you never really finish when upgrading, there is allways something new to try or tweek.
I have just found a major problem with my set up, my equipment stand is a modified TV stand with toughened glass shelves.
The legs have been filled with expanding polyurathane foam and the shelves have thick bitumen pads stuck to the underside, it is spiked on to a concrete harth in my chimeny breast and works well. I just found the assembly instructions while having a clear out and the total weight accross all the shelves should not exeed 25Kg. The TT exeeds that on its own :doh: so I won't be putting it on there.
Guess I have a new project now, I'm thinking Granite and Stainless Steel or maybee............
Frankyc2003
09-10-2013, 11:31
I completed the PSU pcb which was also follows 6L6’s schematic.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Pics/PSU_004.jpg
The pair were installed and work well together giving a stable supply under load.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_041.jpg
That's what it looks like with the regulator in place and the platter off.
The ground lead from the regulator is connected to the main grounding point on the PCB which is at the fixing screw at the bottom left of the board. The input lead (Red) for the regulator is connected to "J1" and the output (White) is connected to "J3". Note that "J2" is not used.
The remote PSU box still uses the stock transformer but my PCB has been installed. The stock rectifier and a pair of caps was removed from the main PCB in the TT as part of the installation.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_042.jpg
Close up you can see the insulator needed underneath the LM317.
I'm using the stock retaining clip and screws, but note I have removed the TT cable entry point, if you have this feature you will need a spacer to lift the board clear.
The PSU modifications have been a massive deviation from my planned development schedule, but worth the effort. The Terminator Linear tracking arm was delivered last week so the finishing post is in sight. :D
I've opted to wire the cartridge staight through to the phono stage using Vics silver wire option and also use a prototype fixed head arm assembly he is developing for the Terminator.
I can only repeat what everyone said already! This is TRULY STUNNING!!!!
Which cartridge have you got in mind with your linear tracking arm?
Whichever way, it SHOULD sound mindblowing!
Audio Al
09-10-2013, 11:56
Is it up and running yet ?
I am impressed :)
Thanks Francois - I have a Denon DL-301 II ready to fit.
This will play through my DIY Phonostage which is actually HypnoToads AD797 LOMC project over on AudioKarma.
I can not stress enough how good this phono stage is for the modest outlay.
Find it here: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=501186&page=22
My posting is #327
If there is any interest, I may offer these PCB's for sale as a pair, for anyone wanting to build Jims (6L6) Design of PSU/regulator. ;)
Al- not yet, it runs but it's not connected to my system yet due to the weight being too much for the rack. :steam:
Audio Al
09-10-2013, 12:50
Al- not yet, it runs but it's not connected to my system yet due to the weight being too much for the rack. :steam:
Stick it on the kitchen table , the suspense is killing me :eek:
Frankyc2003
09-10-2013, 13:05
Thanks Francois - I have a Denon DL-301 II ready to fit.
This will play through my DIY Phonostage which is actually HypnoToads AD797 LOMC project over on AudioKarma.
I can not stress enough how good this phono stage is for the modest outlay.
Find it here: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=501186&page=22
My posting is #327
If there is any interest, I may offer these PCB boards for sale as a pair, for anyone wanting to build Jims (6L6) Design of PSU/regulator. ;)
Great Stuff again, that Phonostage looks very good too! And battery powered...
As Al said, so curious to see (hear) how everything will sound!!!
I know guys, I am having to use a great deal of self control .;)
I don't want to rush things and make a mistake.
I am just doing a couple of mods to improve the Terminator arm, I'm hoping Vic will incorporate them into future production.
How do you mount the Terminator on the Technics, Ken? Or is it free-standing?
I cast three M6 inserts into the concrete so it bolts straight on.
The Technics top surface just happens to be exactly the right height for the arm.
Vic at Trans-fi Audio kindly loaned me a non working sample to establish the ideal positioning of the inserts.
If you look at the veneered top you can see the three holes where the inserts are.
Edit
A picture is worth a thousand words:
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_022.jpg
Ken, can you please stop posting pictures of the Techie, thanks:lol:.
Thanks, Ken, of course you have a different plinth. I think a standard plinth would require some kind of step-up plate to gain height in the arm well.
Martin - Yes, the simplest and probably best looking soloution would be to just bolt a plate accross the hole left when the stock arm is romoved, using the existing screw positions fix it from behind so nothing is visible.
The plate would have to be the right thickness so the top surface is the same height as the rest of the Plinth top surface.
Drill a couple of mounting holes in the plate and fix "T-nuts" into the back of them and secure the arm using these.
I know Vic shows the Terminator mounted by just one fixing in a lot of pictures but I prefere at least two and have three on mine. Less chance of the arm rotating around the single fixing.
Edit: Just checked on my second deck and the plate would be 9 to 10 mm thick, I can not say exactly as I have stripped the paint. It is not crucial as there is a good amount of VTA adjustment on the arm.
Thanks, I thought that's what you would do.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_043.jpg
Well I just couldn't wait any longer and had to hear what she sounds like.
My glass equipment stand is not up to carrying the weight so I had to help it out - not ideal acoustically.
The spindle bearing is new so hasn't run in yet, the arms silver wiring hasn't burned in and the VTA etc are a first attempt so not optimised. All I can say is WOW! :carrot:
I used the Denon 301 II cartridge in my Project RPM 9 to put some hours on it, and that set up sounded very good but this is in a different league. I don't know whether it’s the Linear Arm but the cartridge sounds as though it’s been supercharged. I'm hearing details and instruments I didn't know were there before. Donald Fagen - Night Fly & Cat Stevens - Teaser & the Firecat are awesome, what a sound stage. Difficult voices like Stevie Nicks - Tango in the Night have a sweetness and natural feel, where it always sounded hollow and edgy before.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_044.jpg
The arm tracks beautifully and the straight on view of the cartridge makes cueing a mid record track a doddle.
Loading a record is a different experience as you have to feed it under the arm so it’s best to stop the platter while doing this, but that's not a problem with the Techies brake giving instant stops.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_045.jpg
The adjustment procedure is a bit different to conventional Arms but once I got my head round it you have fine control over settings. I couldn't believe how free the "sled" runs along the arm. I levelled it without the cartridge arm in place and got it perfectly stationary, I gave a fairly light blow from one side and it sent the sled gliding along the arm.
I will give proper feed back when I get my equipment stand built, an upgraded platter (Inspire HiFi) installed and the settings dialled in, but my initial reaction is that the arm and deck work extremely well together. :D
Stratmangler
15-10-2013, 10:16
Nice :)
Clive197
15-10-2013, 10:57
Exceptionally nice.:cool:
Wow!
Looks like an awful lot of work has gone in to that, so I am happy to hear you are pleased with the results!
Frankyc2003
15-10-2013, 12:44
:youtheman::youtheman::clap::clap:
AWESOME STUFF KEN!!!
Very, very impressed.
That linear tracking arm looks (sounds) very interesting.
Is it a TransFi?
Yes it's a Trans-fi Audio "Terminator" as per website:
http://www.trans-fi.com/terminatortonearm.htm
and thanks for the kind words guys.
MikeMusic
15-10-2013, 14:45
When can we have a comparison with a 'normal' arm ?!
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_043.jpg
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_044.jpg
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_045.jpg
A proper Techie, having heard the clearaudio parallel tracking arm I can well imagine how awesome yours must sound.
That truly is a work of art, it deserves to be in a museum!
Well done.
When can we have a comparison with a 'normal' arm ?!
You've heard mine and I challenge you to call it 'normal' :lol:
Frankyc2003
15-10-2013, 17:36
Maybe the last final 'cherry on the cake' would be, fittingly, a record weight!!!!:lol:
I have loved what nearly 800g of Aluminium can do when located on top of the record...
Better bass definition and just less record noise, IMHO
I have the weight that came with my ProJect deck 800g of brass.
Are you sure your weight is Aluminium Francois?
800g is one big piece of Aluminium. ;)
Frankyc2003
15-10-2013, 18:06
yeah probably not...
maybe Zinc or Steel...
I got mine form B&Q...
It was a doorstoper that I drilled...
Great work really impressed and glad it worked out for you. I am looking forward to reading about Marco visit when you ready to compare the approaches
Truly wonderful stuff, Ken. It's an honour to have your work documented on AoS!! :respect:
Any time you fancy a sesh, where we can compare T/Ts, you'd be more than welcome to pop round :)
Marco.
Frankyc2003
15-10-2013, 20:15
Hi Ken,
I managed to photograph the underneath of my platter.
Hopefully this will help.
http://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz275/frankyc2003/20131015_210543_zps95e7e9f2.jpg (http://s835.photobucket.com/user/frankyc2003/media/20131015_210543_zps95e7e9f2.jpg.html)
Hope it helps
Cheers
RobbieGong
15-10-2013, 20:44
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_043.jpg
Well I just couldn't wait any longer and had to hear what she sounds like.
My glass equipment stand is not up to carrying the weight so I had to help it out - not ideal acoustically.
The spindle bearing is new so hasn't run in yet, the arms silver wiring hasn't burned in and the VTA etc are a first attempt so not optimised. All I can say is WOW! :carrot:
I used the Denon 301 II cartridge in my Project RPM 9 to put some hours on it, and that set up sounded very good but this is in a different league. I don't know whether it’s the Linear Arm but the cartridge sounds as though it’s been supercharged. I'm hearing details and instruments I didn't know were there before. Donald Fagen - Night Fly & Cat Stevens - Teaser & the Firecat are awesome, what a sound stage. Difficult voices like Stevie Nicks - Tango in the Night have a sweetness and natural feel, where it always sounded hollow and edgy before.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_044.jpg
The arm tracks beautifully and the straight on view of the cartridge makes cueing a mid record track a doddle.
Loading a record is a different experience as you have to feed it under the arm so it’s best to stop the platter while doing this, but that's not a problem with the Techies brake giving instant stops.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_045.jpg
The adjustment procedure is a bit different to conventional Arms but once I got my head round it you have fine control over settings. I couldn't believe how free the "sled" runs along the arm. I levelled it without the cartridge arm in place and got it perfectly stationary, I gave a fairly light blow from one side and it sent the sled gliding along the arm.
I will give proper feed back when I get my equipment stand built, an upgraded platter (Inspire HiFi) installed and the settings dialled in, but my initial reaction is that the arm and deck work extremely well together. :D
SWEET KEN !! And put together by thine own fair hand - Congratulations !! First pic reminds me of the Superb Pioneer P3(a).
Glad it's sounding great too - will you be modding any further ? as I can only imagine what an upgrade platter (Mike New ETP or Funk) and Mike New Bearing would do !! ;)
Robert - I'm looking at the Inspire HiFi Platter in combination with my own modified bearing (I'm a cheap skate).
Francois - Thanks for the picture, most helpfull, I see, so you can still use the finger holes to remove the platter. I notice this platter is about half the cost of the custom platters made from scratch. I believe you have to trade your platter in against one of these to keep their costs down at Inspire, I'm all for recycling. :D
Can't tell from the angle in your picture, have the strobe markings been removed on this one?
A truly stunning end result:wow:
just beautiful
Paul ,
Utterly fantastic!
Words do not convey how impressed I am with your project. I'm gobsmacked.
Bravo!!!!!!!!
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
(A 21-smile salute!)
Frankyc2003
15-10-2013, 23:59
Nope. Everything is still as per the original.
MikeMusic
16-10-2013, 08:11
You've heard mine and I challenge you to call it 'normal' :lol:
Yours would be one I'd like to hear against the Terminator
Normal only in the 'normal' way of cartridge travelling, although yours has that extra to normal bit.....
MikeMusic
16-10-2013, 08:13
Truly wonderful stuff, Ken. It's an honour to have your work documented on AoS!! :respect:
Any time you fancy a sesh, where we can compare T/Ts, you'd be more than welcome to pop round :)
Marco.
+1
and publish the hearings too !
The Black Adder
16-10-2013, 08:22
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Project_Images/Tech/Tech_045.jpg
Thats a masterpiece..!
WOStantonCS100
30-10-2013, 07:49
I'd make comments regarding your TT and arm choice; but, they would be very, very biased, if one couldn't tell from my signature (and avatar). So, I'll simply say, "Great job, Ken! Enjoy!"
keiron99
19-02-2014, 13:12
Here is where I placed the Ferrite cylinders.
http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/Pics/T_057.jpg
What do the ferrite cylinders do exactly (apart from looking cool :))? Prevent any chance of hum and interference?
Yep - they filter out any nasties comming down the lead.
They are used a lot on computer gear, better quality USB leads. power bricks etc.
I don't know how effective they are, but as they are so cheap, its worth fitting them even if they only do a partial job. ;)
They filter mains-borne high frequency interference, but have no effect on hum.
keiron99
23-02-2014, 13:23
If I were to look for some on ebay, what exactly would I be looking for?
They're usually called snap chokes. Get the right size for the cables.
The Grand Wazoo
23-02-2014, 14:20
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-X-FERRITE-RING-CLAMP-CLIP-ON-NOISE-SUPRESSOR-INTERFERENCE-FILTER-/191045592358?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Suppl ies_ET&hash=item2c7b346526
keiron99
23-02-2014, 14:23
Thanks.
The Grand Wazoo
23-02-2014, 14:26
I searched ebay for 'ferrite ring' - plenty to choose from.
jamington2004
03-11-2014, 18:34
Hi Ken - that's quite incredible.
When I saw Inspire Hifi charge £4k for their Monarch I wondered how hard it could be to put everything into a different plinth
And the answer is very, by the looks of it :)
Would you offer something like this a service in future? Maybe not to the same spec - but taking the 1210 and rehousing it in general?
Would be very interested at some point :)
Sorry I only do it as a hobby, I have to make everything in my kitchen, so as you can imagine a bit restricting.
Have a look at my second and third Techies, third one is by far the best sounding.
If you can't find them on AoS as they have slipped well down the list of threads, just go to my website and see them there.
It is shown in my signature.
Regards
Ken
Hi Ken - that's quite incredible.
When I saw Inspire Hifi charge £4k for their Monarch I wondered how hard it could be to put everything into a different plinth
And the answer is very, by the looks of it :)
Would you offer something like this a service in future? Maybe not to the same spec - but taking the 1210 and rehousing it in general?
Would be very interested at some point :)
Hi Ken - that's quite incredible.
When I saw Inspire Hifi charge £4k for their Monarch I wondered how hard it could be to put everything into a different plinth
And the answer is very, by the looks of it :)
Would you offer something like this a service in future? Maybe not to the same spec - but taking the 1210 and rehousing it in general?
Would be very interested at some point :)
Jamie l am way ahead of you- l asked Ken the same thing and got the same reply!:lol: His work is amazing and would certainly warrant a future commercial venture............
jamington2004
04-11-2014, 08:02
Sorry I only do it as a hobby, I have to make everything in my kitchen, so as you can imagine a bit restricting.
Have a look at my second and third Techies, third one is by far the best sounding.
If you can't find them on AoS as they have slipped well down the list of threads, just go to my website and see them there.
It is shown in my signature.
Regards
Ken
No worries I did assume as much :)
At least the fact you shared your process would allow me to find a craftsman and find out how much something similar would cost
Now to find someone who can work with electronics and wood and concrete!!!
I have my first mission coming up which involves soldering 2 wires together! (Just to illustrate why I am in awe of your work :))
Cheers
Jamie
Hi Jamie
Check out my 3rd Techie, it has a plywood plinth and sounds better than the concrete one.
You dont have to use the bearing/platter combo that I adapted on the 3rd project, you could use stock parts.
Take note that Inspire hifi will sell you just a modified platter on a reconditioning basis where you supply the part for them to work on, it reduces the price considerably. Give them a ring. They can remove the strobe marks and they add an extra slab of alli on the underside to increase mass and reduce ringing. There is a picture of one on one of my threads, if my memory isn't playing tricks.
Three years ago I had never even tried to solder so stick at it.
jamington2004
04-11-2014, 10:38
Great will check it out thanks!
I am actually cheating and buying Darren's deck which has a modified bearing and platter and external PSU already :)
I know about the inspire platter mod - I actually sold Francois the one he sent you a pic of :)
I have a couple of 1210s before - but nothing like the one I am waiting to pick up as I type - so maybe I will follow your projects to rehouse it
I feel like I need a hobby - I spend too much time scrolling on my iphone at home :)
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