KAB DC-1200 (20v regulator) ?

[Qwin]

Has anyone got experience with this replacement regulator board?
It mounts in the same location as the standard one and comes in two flavours.

The first is for use with the standard Tranny/Board either inboard or mounted external.

The second has an Auto switching relay. It can be connected to the stock internal suply but if the KAB PSU is attached it is detected and automatically selected. Means if there is ever a problem with the KAB you just unplug it and the standard PSU kicks in as a back up.

I am interested in the first option to use with standard items mounted externaly. This is shown on the KAB site at $39.95. So I was wondering if this would be a cost effective upgrade? Has anyone tried it?

Getting a bit ahead of myself as I don't even own an SL-1200 yet, but I am in design mode and contemplating everything from feet, bearing and platter to replacement plinth design. I even have sketch ideas for the cable routing. I work out a lot of the details before I buy a deck to upgrade, that way I buy the right variant to acomodate my ideas. Doesn't allways work out that way though. :scratch:

[OneyedK]

Hello Ken,

Get yourself familiar with the schematic and the working of the SL-1200.
Vibrations are bad, so the original transformer has to be moved outboard.

Ask yourself how the different voltages on the board have to be.
imho, and please contradict me if I'm wrong:
21V low ripple, low noise... doesn't even have to be stabilised (I tried this with a variable supply, speed is not affected by voltage variations -between limits both in speed and magnitude-), the Technics internal regulator does the job well, you can help it by using low ESR caps and a low noise rectifier and big cap, these can be placed in the same box where the transformer goes.
Feed the DC to the capacitor C1. --> don't forget to remove the internal rectifier
9.4V all of the above, but it has to be rock stable, the PLL loop in the Technics is fully analog, so absolute and correct levels are very important.
--> Paul Hynes makes a series regulator that is perfect for the job
5V here, you want low impedance over a high bandwidth, it powers a noisy 4011 chip and this chip will introduce jitter in the circuit, you need a shunt regulator there.
--> Paul Hynes makes a shunt regulator that is perfect for the job

While you're at it, replace al electrolytic capacitors on the pcb, some miniatures used on the deck are poor quality.
The 10µF, 4µ7, 3µ3 and 1µF types can be replaced with 50V Wima film caps.

Now on topic...
The 21V stabilisers, based on 3-pin regulators, are (some marginally) better than the stock regulator, same goes for the KAB (the fact that it's 20V is not important).
In my opinion, changing the onboard regulator to one of those does next to nothing.
However, if you want to cover everything and like super duper 21V in your deck, the dual 21V Paul Hynes regulator is the way to go.

[Qwin]

Hi Karl,
I'm afraid the electronics is not my area of expertise, so a lot of what you say is over my head and is why I asked my question. I am good at making and finishing to a fairly high standard with a very basic electrical ability. I do get the point you are making about the standard regulator and I have looked at the Paul Hayes soloutions discussed here. The price put me off his stuff, which is never the less regarded by those that know, to be good at what it does. I just thought for $39 the KAB regulator might give a good value improvement over standard but if I am understanding you correctly, you think any improvement will be marginal.

[OneyedK]

If you're not comfortable with electronics, a KAB PS-1200GX might be best for you.
It's advantage is: transformer/rectifier/first cap outside, so no vibrations and lower EMI.
The DC1200 and SX1200 (strobe toggle) are included, so you can choose later if you want to use them.

The price is a tad higher, but if uou would DIY, buying a case, transformer, rectifier, cap, wires, connectors, it would cost you at least the same as their neat package.

Best things in life are for free... That's a rule that doesn't work in electronics :(

[Qwin]

This sx1200 "strobe toggle" does it just disable the strobe?
Seems a lot of chips on there?
I will not be using the strobe and removing it completely. If I just disconect it from the main board is this ok, or is the sx1200 disabeling some components on the main board to reduce the noise floor? I suspect not.

[OneyedK]

I don't know exactly what it does, and indeed, it has a lot of chips (why?).

If you want to disable the strobe, just remove transistor Q202.
Mine is still on, I don't know if disabling the strobe will have an audible effect.
Never tried it. (I will in the near future)

[costerdock]

I have the strobe disabler - what it does is - when you turn on the table - the strobe light stays on for about 30 seconds - then disables. In addition you can press the start button - hold it down for a few seconds and the strobe stays on - until you decide to turn it off again.

If you want the ability to disable the strobe - this is a great way to do it.

As for sound difference? I couldn't tell - and I wasn't expecting much when I ordered it - as my table was brand new (M5G) and really dead silent out of the box.

As far as the DC1200 goes - I'll probably get one since I have both the KAB strobe disabler and the KAB powersupply - so it makes sense.

Thanks,

[OneyedK]

I'd prefer a full disable of the strobe...
No additional fancy circuits...

[RobbieGong]

I'd prefer a full disable of the strobe...
No additional fancy circuits...

Totally agree. Took this approach myself no issues whatsoever. See link, http://audio.innerurban.com/2010/01/disabling-technics-strobe-lamp_06.html if you have a 'newer' Techie, it's the bottom picture and paragraph you need. (Ignore the term 'hack' it is the simplist of simple procedures, totally no drama).