Scratch repair in laquered speakers

[AlexM]

I'm most miffed - someone has put something down on the top of one my Avalon NP Evo 2.0s, and left some reasonably deep scratches into/through the lacquer coat. The scratches seem to have a white edge, which makes it quite visible. See the picture below for an example.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8209/8241593648_271f5cf48a_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/14548229@N07/8241593648/)
20121203_133839 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/14548229@N07/8241593648/) by alexmastersuk (http://www.flickr.com/people/14548229@N07/), on Flickr

I know some of you have a lot of knowledge about furniture/cabinet making and restoration. Can you provide any guidance on repair techniques and materials?. If it isn't easy to do with a good finish, who might be able to take on the job?.

Thanks in advance,
Alex

[Ammonite Audio]

That's a coincidence! My dog Stanley, when he was a puppy, decided to gnaw at one of my Avalon NP2.0 speakers, leaving some rather obvious scratches. I'm going to try concealing the scratches with coloured wax filler, specifically designed for such repairs. Rustins do a good range of colours - see http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rustins-Wax-Filler-Wood-Furniture-Scratch-Dent-Hole-Chip-Repair-Sticks-Kits-/320915124587

[AlexM]

Thanks Hugo - that might be the answer. When the online guides I have read start to talk about taking steel wool to the surfaces, then I take fright!. I was wondering if the scratches can be filled using a touch-in method with clear lacquer as you might with a stone chip repair. I don't think the scratches go through to the cherry stain on the veneer, so maybe the wax chip stick might be the best method. Have you tried this on yours as yet? what was the outcome?.

My poor speakers are under assault from all and sundry. I caught the cleaner ramming the vacuum cleaner's floor head into the base of the speakers this morning. I think I need to fashion some bumpers, or look at a solution to form a plinth of some sort, as you have done with your stillpoint stands.

Regards,
Alex

[seoirse2002]

Thanks Hugo - that might be the answer. When the online guides I have read start to talk about taking steel wool to the surfaces, then I take fright!. I was wondering if the scratches can be filled using a touch-in method with clear lacquer as you might with a stone chip repair. I don't think the scratches go through to the cherry stain on the veneer, so maybe the wax chip stick might be the best method. Have you tried this on yours as yet? what was the outcome?.

My poor speakers are under assault from all and sundry. I caught the cleaner ramming the vacuum cleaner's floor head into the base of the speakers this morning. I think I need to fashion some bumpers, or look at a solution to form a plinth of some sort, as you have done with your stillpoint stands.

Regards,
Alex

First...get rid of your cleaner...
Then try this: Break a shelled walnut in half and rub the raw walnut into the scratch...this may remove the white which is showing up the scratch,and depending on how deep it is,it may disguise it enough for you to be happy....dont use the broken walnut straight away as it may be too wet...allow its natural oils to dry a bit first once broken.....leave it for a while,(couple of hours)then buff it up. Alternatively,I have had success with a box of childrens wax crayons as they usually come in multicolours...start with the lightest nearest your colour and blend in a darker one if need be later....be careful,if you start with the dark one it may show up the scratch more with a dark line....hope this helps..

[walpurgis]

With due respect to George,

I suspect the "white" edges are either peeled up laquer/varnish or fine wood fibres from the veneer.

I'd resist using anything liquid or oily as it will enter the scratch and through capillary action stain the surrounding wood under the laquer.

The scratch shown looks rather like a depression rather than a gouge. A trick I've used is to place a bit of thin wire gauze (cut from an old strainer) on top of the scratch and then placed a very hot, dampened, but well rung out piece of cloth on top. The steam re-expands the wood without making it wet, lifting a large part of the depression out. You can then use hard wax on it, the white edges may then disappear as you buff the surface up.

I used this method on a couple of dings on the big Tannoys I've just renovated.

Geoff.

[The Grand Wazoo]

Good advice, Geoff

[seoirse2002]

Yes,
Good advice Geoff,I have actually used the damp cloth method to get little dents out of a guitar...damp cloth and steam iron will swell the wood,but great care is needed,and then it must be sealed,but works best when no cracks in lacquer so the liquid doesent get under it..

[awkwardbydesign]

If you overdo the steam it can turn the surrounding area white, as I discovered removing cup rings. Do it gently and wait a bit before continuing.
You can also get hard wax which is melted and dripped on like sealing wax, similar range of colours.

[Eremite]

When the online guides I have read start to talk about taking steel wool to the surfaces, then I take fright!.

The steel wool they're talking about for wood finishing is extremely fine grade - not the sort of stuff that you use in the kitchen. This is the sort of stuff (http://www.axminster.co.uk/liberon-liberon-steel-wool-prod23679/)I mean, in grade 0000.

I used this to finish off a small table I made last year, rubbing wax in as the final stage of finishing. It really does produce a beautiful finish.

Taking a match to this stuff is fun too!

[sq225917]

Looks like a plastic coating , rather than an actual lacquer. Try the hot iron and damp cloth, failing that, if my experience with my similarly coated Focals is anything to go by, your stuck with the marks.

[AlexM]

Simon,

Do you mean a vinyl wrap or some sort of 'plastic' varnish?. It is definitely wood veneer (quite nice book matched stuff!). If it is a polyethylene varnish, does that rule out the heat/steam methods described?.

Reading through the advice so far, I'm not sure if I am dealing with a dent/impression in the cabinet, or just a scratch/gouge. I assume the steaming method is intended to expand the compressed veneer in the scratch?.

I am keen to repair completely or at least disguise it as much as possible. I think I will try the harmless stuff (walnut rubbing) and see how things look. I think if the stain has been scratched through, then a coating of wax to cover and build-up the scratch to the level of the surrounding lacquer coat might be the safest method. The veneer is cherry, so I'll try to see if I can find the closest colour match.

I will try to take a macro shot with a decent camera to see if that informs the panel of experts!.

Thanks to all for your help so far.

Alex

[sq225917]

Alex, it looks like a compression in the outer coat, if it was a dent deeper into the wood then the grain would be distorted.

If it's like the Focals the outer finish is actually pretty thick. Mine fell onto a coffee table and you could see where it was cracked that it was a decent thickness, maybe 0.5mm, way thicker than varnish. There was nothing I could do to remove the dents or the white marks, in the end I had to cut the damage out, piece new veneer in and then flush it all off with a matt varnish to match. It never looked perfect, but it was pretty heavily damaged.

I don't know if it's a sprayed finish or if it is film applied over the veneer, but it's a PITA to work with.

[AlexM]

Simon/all,

I've dropped Avalon a note to see if they can enlighten me as to the finish used and any pointers as to how best to repair it. I'm surprised the lacquer coat is not bullet proof if it is that thick. It definitely doesn't look like an applied film - something sprayed on by the looks of it.

I'm not sure I'd go to the lengths you had to. I might show

Let's see if Avalon can offer any useful repair tips.

Thanks,
Alex

Update - reply from Avalon below (that was quick!)
Hello Alex,

The finish on these is a lacquer. Application of heat (iron) and humidity (small damp cloth) can swell the fibers which have been compressed by the force of the object making the dents. This is tricky business, and you may disturb the lacquer, making it take on a cloudy appearance, which will not go away, and therefore making the dent more highlighted. This method of 'pulling the grain back out' is usually done with the idea that the surface will be re-sanded, and sprayed with fresh lacquer. You could also try a drop or two of water right in the dent, and just heating the smallest area through a dry cloth. This would minimize the lacquer damage around the wound.
May I recommend that you try the wax first? This should work, with the minimum of effects to adjacent areas. If not satisfactory, the area can still be steamed.

Avalon Acoustics, Inc,
sales@avalonacoustics.com

[sq225917]

Good service from them always nice to get a hasty reply.

[walpurgis]

The "walnut rubbing" may introduce the natural oil from the nut into the veneer. Proceed with caution or staining may occur.

[Reid Malenfant]

Hi Alex, just wondering if you can find out what type of laquer was used :scratch:

Only reason I ask is because I don't see any reason why you couldn't fill or slightly overfill the indentation with laquer (maybe with a few goes) & then cut it back & polish it out.

I think most people think of spraying, but you only need to fill the damaged area. So if you can drip it in...

Just a thought ;)

I hope you get it sorted :)