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aquapiranha
20-01-2009, 22:22
Hi all. I have read with interest all the posts recently concerning OB's. I have here a pair of Fostex 130E and the possibility of a pair of Eminence Alphas.

This page (it is loooonnnggg)..

www.quarter-wave.com/OBs/OB_Design.pdf

mentions just such a combination.

Any thoughts? recommendations? I will not be able to start till next month but at the moment at least it is looking like a goer!

:)

Mammoth
21-01-2009, 11:18
Martin's OB projects have proven both extremely popular and extremely effective, especially given the lowly expenditure, so they're a bit of a no-brainer really if you want a good starting point.

aquapiranha
21-01-2009, 11:55
Thanks Scott! it was your sachiko that gave me the DIY bug, and I trust your judgement. I like the sound of the 103, but for most applications they could do with a bit of lower register reinforcement as you know.

aquapiranha
21-01-2009, 21:29
So it looks like I will definite constructing these in the not too distant future. By then I hope to have another amplifier (a bit smaller, a bit less powerful) but I have an inkling they will make beautiful music together...

Sgt.Pepper
21-01-2009, 23:40
Is the amp going to be a DIY job as well Steve ?

aquapiranha
21-01-2009, 23:51
No. Well at least it was once....

muffinman
22-01-2009, 00:33
I'm currently umming and ahhing over an OB build as it's just a itch to scratch.
i know jack about building speakers so have decided to copy a board design word for word. my worry is if i don't like them and opt for the cheaper version i'll be left wondering if it was because i did it on the cheap and i'll then buy more expensive items. I'm not entirely sure that it matters but my listening room is medium/large.
therefore i feel that i must get the 8inch full rangers from audio nirvana as i imagine they'd be pretty easy to sell on.
fyi i got full delivery costs from them and they are willing to 'under cost' the items for customs reasons - which is nice

Super 12 Cast Frame: $370/pr
Super 12: 320
Super 10 Cast Frame: 330
Super 10: 280
Super 8 Cast Frame: 280
Super 8: 250
Standard 8: 220
Super 6.5: 230
Standard 6.5: 200

i now see this project costing the better part of £350 which is a ton and a half over what i wanted. bearing in mind that i'm perfectly happy with my current speakers, i think i need to read thru the 'confronting your own realities' thread:doh:

Mammoth
22-01-2009, 10:15
I'd go with Martin's simple passive OB project then. Couple of Alpha 15s set you back ~£100, couple of 103s, oh, £60. Sheet of whatever material floats your boat, & job done. The 103 has a far cleaner midband & HF than any 8in FR unit you'll run across these days too, and as the Eminence is handling the LF, you shouldn't have any excursion problems. Just because a driver doesn't cost as much does not necessarily mean it's inferior -in this case, it just means it happens to be smaller.

muffinman
25-01-2009, 12:36
I had my eye on an ebay sale of s/h beta15s'.
they ended up going for £102 inc p+p
they are £95 delivered from Maplin
ebay is full of loons

Beechwoods
25-01-2009, 20:43
I had my eye on an ebay sale of s/h beta15s'.
they ended up going for £102 inc p+p
they are £95 delivered from Maplin
ebay is full of loons

LOL! And not the first time that's happened I'm sure :o

aquapiranha
17-04-2009, 11:58
OK. Now i have the 15" Alphas (thanks Vinnie) and am going to start sorting things out soon. I have a nagging doubt though, and that is that the 4" 103 may not be able to give me the sort of dynamics I get with the 206E's I am currently using. Does anyone have an opinion as regard an alternative design of OB using the alphas and perhaps another, larger FR unit? I could use the 206E's unless someone has a better idea. Oh, and I am on very tight budget!

Many thanks!

alb
18-04-2009, 07:10
Generally speaking the smaller drivers are very good at dynamics. Best to just try it and compare.
If you get really bored you could perhaps borrow my spare pair of Audio Nirvana drivers.
For the time being just get em built and running. If the drivers are new then they will take a while to reach their full potential anyway. Good luck.

aquapiranha
18-04-2009, 08:49
Generally speaking the smaller drivers are very good at dynamics. Best to just try it and compare.
If you get really bored you could perhaps borrow my spare pair of Audio Nirvana drivers.
For the time being just get em built and running. If the drivers are new then they will take a while to reach their full potential anyway. Good luck.

cheers m8y, and thanks for the offer!. the drivers are not new and the 103's at least should be run in fine though the alphas are quite new.When I said dynamics I think I may have meant "slam" in fact. I will go ahead and try the original build and see what happens, it doesnt take much to knock up another pair which is a benefit of the OD design I suppose!.

aquapiranha
15-09-2009, 20:02
Just a bit of a belated update. I now have all of the required drivers...

4 X Eminence Alpha 15A's
2 x Visaton B200's

And I have started the build proper. Baffles will be 20" wide by 46" high, 2 alphas and a B200 per side. built with 19MM Oak veneered MDF with a reinforcing layer of 19MM BB ply on the back, they should be ready in a little over a week.

Just in time for the four channel Tripath amp and PSU that I have ordered to arrive! I am hoping (fingers crossed) to have this system at least on test in a week or so but there are lots of little niggly things to sort out so don't quote me on that.

I also bought a brilliant router from Aldi for the ridiculously low price of £20 and a set of cutters for £6! I have been practicing on some bits of wood lying around. Remember, measure twice, cut once.

a pic of some of the ingredients...

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb256/aquapiranha/Open%20Baffle/CIMG3165.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb256/aquapiranha/Open%20Baffle/B200back.jpg

Oh, and these are not my toes...

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb256/aquapiranha/Open%20Baffle/B200front.jpg

John
18-09-2009, 19:44
Looking good Steve
Are you just going to bolt on the drivers or add some kind of isolation mounting device

aquapiranha
18-09-2009, 19:48
Hi John. The drivers will be rebated, or flush mounted into the sandwich of 19mm mdf / 19mm BB ply. They will be secured with allen screws that I have bought for the job. the baffle will be supported on both sides at the back with two more pieces of mdf and a bracing piece will join these together. I am hoping to get one finished this weekend at least.

Steve

Ali Tait
18-09-2009, 20:13
Looking good Steve.Bring them to the next Owston! :)

aquapiranha
18-09-2009, 20:16
Thanks Ali, but really they are not even built yet! I would like to, they will require an active crossover and four channels of amplification (I have a rane x-over, and a four channel tripath board on order) so I doubt they will be ready in time for the weekend..

Steve

Ali Tait
18-09-2009, 20:55
:lolsign: That's why I said the next one.. :)

aquapiranha
20-09-2009, 12:01
:lolsign: That's why I said the next one.. :)

Duh! sorry Ali. I am not the fastest when it comes to DIY and I am the first to admit it! I have just been using the most terrible and fearsome cutting tool in my extensive arsenal - not to be trifled with and must be treated with the utmost respect!...Not kidding guys, really dangerous.

Anyway, just to prove I am on my way..

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb256/aquapiranha/Open%20Baffle/CIMG3172.jpg

No more pics until at least one is finished.

Ali Tait
20-09-2009, 12:07
Nice! Is that veneered mdf?

alb
20-09-2009, 12:09
Must have a look in Aldi later, it seems to have made a nice job. Was it supplied with a circle cutting thing?

aquapiranha
20-09-2009, 12:17
Ali, yes, it is Oak veneered MDF. Just to make sure, I have a layer of 19MM BB birch ply on the back...thickness shown here...

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb256/aquapiranha/Open%20Baffle/CIMG3173.jpg

The router from Aldi was a bargain, but I think the offer finished on thursday?

The other 'thing' I used to cut the holes because it is quick if a little lethal is this...

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb256/aquapiranha/Open%20Baffle/CIMG3174.jpg

It has two adjustable cutters, but when unleashed, it really is a beast! one slip and you would be able to fit an 8" driver in your torso!

Oh sorry Ali, yes the router comes with a 'rod' that has a screw at one end for attacting to the wood in order to cut holes. Mine came loose however, so I had to braze it into a single piece. Much better for it now, I can cut holes with confidence. I will get a pic of it so you can see what I mean.

Here..

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb256/aquapiranha/Open%20Baffle/CIMG3175.jpg

aquapiranha
26-09-2009, 14:57
This is what they will eventually look like more or less. The 'ring' marks you can see are made by the router, and once sanded and varnished you wont see them.

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb256/aquapiranha/Open%20Baffle/CIMG3176.jpg

John
26-09-2009, 17:28
Looking good Steve

aquapiranha
09-10-2009, 19:36
Just about to finish the back of the speaker with acoustic cloth, and then fit and solder the drive units before finally fitting the terminal blocks. I know it has taken a while, but though it might not look like it I have put a lot of work in up to now. also, I must do a final sand and varnish to bring out the grain of the oak veneer. Oh, and iron on the oak veneer edging...bloody hell will this never end????

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb256/aquapiranha/Open%20Baffle/CIMG3185.jpg

notice I need to dust the fireplace? that's what happens when you work with MDF!

a few more pics here if you are interested...

http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb256/aquapiranha/Open%20Baffle/

Ali Tait
09-10-2009, 19:43
It'll be worth it in the end Steve!

aquapiranha
09-10-2009, 19:50
I hope so Ali! just a point, while thinking about what cable to use I was round at Paul's (Sgt. Pepper) and he is using 'Anti-cables' which is a brand of cables using essentially 'magnet wire'. I looked around and found the same for £10 for 20M! a bit less than anti-cables that is for sure! It is a PITA to work with though.

Ali Tait
09-10-2009, 21:11
Interesting.Let us know how it sounds.

alb
09-10-2009, 21:33
Magnet wire can be good.
I used to keep all my old crossovers and use the inductor wire. Very useful stuff.

Tripmaster
09-10-2009, 21:36
Just about to finish the back of the speaker with acoustic cloth, and then fit and solder the drive units before finally fitting the terminal blocks. I know it has taken a while, but though it might not look like it I have put a lot of work in up to now. also, I must do a final sand and varnish to bring out the grain of the oak veneer. Oh, and iron on the oak veneer edging...bloody hell will this never end????

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb256/aquapiranha/Open%20Baffle/CIMG3185.jpg

notice I need to dust the fireplace? that's what happens when you work with MDF!

a few more pics here if you are interested...

http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb256/aquapiranha/Open%20Baffle/

Hi Steve

Have you bought the varnish? If not, have a look at this Danish Oil

http://www.liberon.co.uk/oil-finishes/superior-danish-oil-with-uv-filter,434,464.html?&args=Y29tcF9pZD0zMDQmYWN0aW9uPWZpY2hlUHJvZHVpdCZpZ D0xOTYmfA%3D%3D

It's very easy to apply and produces a nice mellow finish. Just an idea :)

aquapiranha
09-10-2009, 21:46
Hi Richard. In fact I have bought some clear satin varnish as the timber merchant recommended. I have done a test piece using this varnish and some darker stain stuff which is like a thick pasty wax. I am still unsure as to which finish I prefer, but I did look at the Danish oil and Tung oil too among others.

Steve

Ali Tait
09-10-2009, 21:51
Danish oil et al gives a lovely finish,only downside is you really need to re-apply it periodically,and it doesn't give the hard shell of protection to the wood that a varnish does.It does look nice though..

The Grand Wazoo
09-10-2009, 23:18
Danish oil, linseed oil (or in fact, any other oil - I've used olive oil on bowls that I have turned on a lathe) give a far more organic finish that will allow the wood to mature naturally with time (though not degrade). Oils will need an occasional re-application.
Modern polyeurathane varnishes are impressive for their sheen, but ultimately unsatisfactory as they don't allow the wood to breathe & age naturally.

Look at a well preserved vintage guitar & you'll see the finish has changed over the years, giving that lovely deeper, warm 'lived in' patina. Now look at the same model modern guitar - it will always look like that, but will chip on the edges & begin to look tatty (as opposed to the well used, but loved look of the vintage one).

I know which one I prefer!

George Harrison used to swear that his guitars sounded better becase he stripped them back to the wood, getting rid of the modern finish.

aquapiranha
12-10-2009, 20:43
Chris, I do like the idea of oil, but I have read a few reports now saying that there can sometimes be adverse effects with oak veneer on MDF, so I think I will use the varnish I have, this one below...

http://www.dulux.co.uk/web/images/packs/dccv-132.jpg

This is one now nearly finished. It still needs varnishing and wiring of course.
Excuse the dust on the lens...

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb256/aquapiranha/Open%20Baffle/CIMG3187.jpg

Cotlake
12-10-2009, 21:27
If it was mine, I'd never use that plastic varnish. I've oiled loads of Oak veneered panels with an oil finish to very good effect with absolutely no problems. I like 'Finishing Oil' because it introduces the minimum of colour whereas Danish Oil can be a bit yellow/golden. Others advocate Lemon Oil. I've not tried it. Whatever, I really advise you to avoid that horrid varnish. Sure, it'll do the job but you won't get the same quality of finish as you would with oil unless you thin and spray it. Thereafter, it'll be a pig to change if you don't like the effect. As said, I've never had a problem with oil on veneered artificial board, even on some occasions soaking it into the exposed ends of MDF panels. Furthermore, I constructed some seriously sturdy shelves in our computer room using plain dyed MDF. I finished with my favoured oil. Even though I say it myself, I got a bloody professional finish.

Regards,

Greg

aquapiranha
12-10-2009, 21:33
Must....resist.....must....

Arrhhh! you lot will have my head cabbaged before the week is out! lol. OK, I will have a look at it again. I had already spied some in a local DIY shop called colron.

The Grand Wazoo
12-10-2009, 22:53
Hehehe.......my fishy friend!
Attention! Present fins............wait for it, wait for it!......About swim,

Alex_UK
12-10-2009, 23:15
you lot will have my head cabbaged before the week is out!

Don't worry, we can find (buy) you some foil to stop that happening! :lolsign:

aquapiranha
13-10-2009, 05:30
Don't worry, we can find (buy) you some foil to stop that happening! :lolsign:

Haha Chris!

I am going to buy some rainbow foil and make a tin foil hat.


http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d122/NothinClever/TinFoilHat_puton.jpg

Tripmaster
13-10-2009, 07:36
Must....resist.....must....

Arrhhh! you lot will have my head cabbaged before the week is out! lol. OK, I will have a look at it again. I had already spied some in a local DIY shop called colron.

Hi Steve

If you don't like the varnish finish...which I'm sure you will, you can always apply a thin coat of clear wax with some 0000 steel wool.

My dad was building a pair of Hemp Apertos at the same time as I was building my Brines. He decided to use the Dulux varnish and I have to say the oil looks better IMHO.

I applied 5 coats of oil with a 'Bounty' kitchen towel, and the final coat was rubbed in with a scotch brite pad.

It's really easy to do, and you'll end up with a near perfect finish...with not a brush mark in sight! :)

The Grand Wazoo
13-10-2009, 08:30
I applied 5 coats of oil with a 'Bounty' kitchen towel, and the final coat was rubbed in with a scotch brite pad.

It's really easy to do, and you'll end up with a near perfect finish...with not a brush mark in sight!

The trick for a really good finish with oil is to ensure your sanding leaves a properly consistant and really smooth surface & then to use some real elbow grease on the final coat - that makes all the difference.

Re. problems with oil finishes on oak: When you're applying the first few coats of oil, be careful not to put on too much. Oak has very large diameter pores & when the wood is sawn, some of these fibres are split lengthways as the saw blade is travelling down the line of the grain (think of a row of drinking straws side by side split lengthways, leaving in effect, a series of troughs). If the veneer is thin & you put too much oil on, you can saturate these areas & the oil puddles in the troughs. This can cause the veneer to wrinkle & lift.
Just take it easy at first with small amounts & make sure its worked it in. This is generally much more of a problem with American oak than with European varieties - some of the US oaks have enourmous diameter pores.

aquapiranha
13-10-2009, 15:52
Thanks for the tips Chris. I will use the oil as I do want a more natural looking finish.

Cheers

Tripmaster
13-10-2009, 16:46
I'll get my coat ;)

aquapiranha
13-10-2009, 16:49
I'll get my coat ;)

Oh sorry Richard! you too!. I am about to get the iron out, not to do my shirts either, but to have another go at veneering the edges.... then out comes the sander. This better be worth it in the end!

Thanks chaps!


:o

Tripmaster
13-10-2009, 17:02
Hi Steve

Of course it will, and you'll have learnt a few things along the way.

The scotch-bite pad helps to de-knib the previous coat of oil. I really recommend it.

Chris is right about the pores weeping. When you have applied your final coat of oil wipe off the excess with a clean cloth. Then keep an eye on the wood over the next hour or so. If you see any droplets appearing, lightly wipe the wood again with a clean cloth.

aquapiranha
13-10-2009, 17:04
Great I will do that thanks Richard. BTW, what is a scotch bright pad? is it one of those scouring things? sounds a bit excessive! lol...

Steve

Tripmaster
13-10-2009, 20:10
Great I will do that thanks Richard. BTW, what is a scotch bright pad? is it one of those scouring things? sounds a bit excessive! lol...

Steve

Hello again

Yes

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/Pads.png

As long as you rub with the grain it wont leave a mark. It makes the surface super smooth

aquapiranha
13-10-2009, 20:19
OK Richard, got you thanks. I will pick up a couple at the supermarket. This veneering is very time consuming!

Tripmaster
13-10-2009, 20:37
OK Richard, got you thanks. I will pick up a couple at the supermarket. This veneering is very time consuming!

Its worth taking your time as you'll be looking at it a good deal longer ;)

aquapiranha
13-10-2009, 20:40
True. As long as they look acceptable I won't mind. I do like things to look at least presentable, but the sound is more important to me at the end of the day. I do enjoy doing this sort of thing though but I like to take my time, there are some diy'ers who seem to knock out a valve amp a week! It is moot anyway until the tripath amp is in one piece, but in reality that should only take a few hours to sort.

Thanks.

Rare Bird
14-10-2009, 10:19
This is one now nearly finished. It still needs varnishing and wiring of course.
Excuse the dust on the lens...

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb256/aquapiranha/Open%20Baffle/CIMG3187.jpg

Steve
Use this Sikkens 'TS' in clear finish .It's medium build microporous, it's a superb satin finish & leaves no brush marks at all..Three coats wil be perfect extremely fine rub over between coats.If you don't have a spray gun use one of those fine minature foam rollers, not the wooly gloss ones..Honestly it will leave no ripple marks when it's dry..It's about 14 earth pounds a litre.I've used this for years.Just finished a Oak computer desk in this.

http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/s/SIKTSINT/

These are the fine roller heads

http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~schneidw/audio/images/foam_roller-veneering-004sml.jpg

Tripmaster
14-10-2009, 12:28
Decision paralysis! :lol:

Rare Bird
14-10-2009, 15:19
That's the Sikkens finish on solid Oak top, you can't really see how nice it looks cos it's getting dark here....

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a222/LIVING-SIN/Oak.jpg

btw, i don't believe in finish with colour in it, if you want a browner wood you buy a different hardwood, natural colours or nothing i say, adding a colour pigment to a wood is where things go wonky unless you have a spray gun.But if you then scratch it the lighter wood shows which is bad..

aquapiranha
14-10-2009, 16:00
Woah! between you lot and Shippy I am losing my mind!!

Reall though thanks Andre for taking the time and explaining your choice. The thing is I now have a big pot of varnish that is going to go unused and also a tin of oil (and a pot of paint on wax stuff I have already dismissed) so I don't really want to go and buy some more now, no matter how good!

As Richard says.. decision paralysis ! I have the same when trying to choose whch beans to buy at the supermarket.

:doh:

Alex_UK
14-10-2009, 16:09
Smear the speakers in beans and put the varnish on toast? No, sorry, that's back to Belt again isn't it? - just ignore me! ;)

Start a poll - my vote goes to the oil.

Rare Bird
14-10-2009, 16:15
Oil is quick easy & near enough perfect finish but as with wax it's open to dirt, you will at some point have to maintain the finish, they are the only two downpoints really..Everyone to their own preference i guess.Good luck steve i'm sure it'll come out well.

aquapiranha
14-10-2009, 16:40
That's the Sikkens finish on solid Oak top, you can't really see how nice it looks cos it's getting dark here....

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a222/LIVING-SIN/Oak.jpg



That does look nice though!!

:)

Rare Bird
14-10-2009, 17:45
:lolsign:

Cotlake
14-10-2009, 19:06
Oil is quick easy & near enough perfect finish but as with wax it's open to dirt, you will at some point have to maintain the finish, they are the only two downpoints really..

Hmmm, I doubt the claim about dirt. By way of example, I used Liberon Finishing oil on my stairs banister rail which is handled all the time by a family of four. Dirt is no more an issue than any other finish suffers. The beauty is that when (if) you do need to do some maintainance, a surface clean followed by a 5 minute application of oil with a rag is all that is required.

Modern oils cover and seal wood in a similar way to plasic vanish although I believe you get a better finish. With ragged application being the preferred method, it's so simple to do and you never suffer all the drip and thickness problems of brush application. After application, it readily finds a uniform level on the surface before starting to dry. You also complete the task in a fraction of the brushing/rollering time. Oil finish is a no brainer as far as I'm concerned.

Rare Bird
14-10-2009, 20:29
Hmmm, I doubt the claim about dirt. By way of example, I used Liberon Finishing oil on my stairs banister rail which is handled all the time by a family of four. Dirt is no more an issue than any other finish suffers. The beauty is that when (if) you do need to do some maintainance, a surface clean followed by a 5 minute application of oil with a rag is all that is required.

Modern oils cover and seal wood in a similar way to plasic vanish although I believe you get a better finish. With ragged application being the preferred method, it's so simple to do and you never suffer all the drip and thickness problems of brush application. After application, it readily finds a uniform level on the surface before starting to dry. You also complete the task in a fraction of the brushing/rollering time. Oil finish is a no brainer as far as I'm concerned.


Microporous finish is no way near as thick as Varnish, it's generally low-medium build & doesnt drip unless you pour it on.I've explained what to do if you don't have a spray gun.

Believe me i've made furnature for people in oiled & waxed finish as specified & to see the state of the shit in the grain a couple years later is enough to make you cry..Ash & Oak are deep grained hardwoods & the worse culprit.
O well i suppose being a cabinet maker i know nothing

:doh:

aquapiranha
14-10-2009, 20:32
OK that's it. I am going to try all of the finishes on a spare piece and just go with whatever I like best.

Tripmaster
14-10-2009, 21:10
OK that's it. I am going to try all of the finishes on a spare piece and just go with whatever I like best.

That's the best comment so far ;)

Cotlake
14-10-2009, 21:35
Believe me i've made furnature for people in oiled & waxed finish as specified & to see the state of the shit in the grain a couple years later is enough to make you cry..Ash & Oak are deep grained hardwoods & the worse culprit.
O well i suppose being a cabinet maker i know nothing :doh:

Regardless of your claimed experience, I fundimentally don't agree with you based on my own experience. I acknowledge that wood such as Oak and Ash are very open grained but in my experience all are readily sealed with oil. The surface might be a little rustic in presentation and many of us like that. Unless your products are subject to a very dirty environment, I really don't recognise your dirt clogging argument. I don't like wax finishes because it is so hard to repair if damage is caused either by water or trauma, however I also recognise that a rub with a rich oil based nut kernel will at least take out visual marks. Over ten years ago I wax finished my speakers. I've regetted the finish ever sinse because of the difficulty in covering up damage when this is not an issue with an oiled finish. Regardless, dirt has never ever been an issue. Personally I think that is your own 'Red Herring'.

Rare Bird
14-10-2009, 21:45
Sorry to keep binding on but it's all the work i've done for people & family in the past around my area looks really grubby when i see em these days with said finishes, i honestly don't think they would look the same if not finished that way.It's tru that something oiled like an hardwood flood would be an idiotic move & Agreed wax is a silly thing to do as you say you can't do anything once it's waxed.But one of my points is the zero mantinence with a proper finish & you have to agree it is a more reliable finish!

Anyhow let Steve decide for himself now...

sondale
18-10-2009, 21:36
But then again you could just cover the baffle front and back with felt, and the spiders - that is what I did with my OBs using Hawthorne speakers.

If you look at the Hawthorne speakers site / forum you will find some covered with Suede - it helps damp the cabinets and improves imaging.

But it may not look as good as a nice varnish.

:scratch::scratch:

aquapiranha
19-10-2009, 05:23
But then again you could just cover the baffle front and back with felt, and the spiders - that is what I did with my OBs using Hawthorne speakers.

If you look at the Hawthorne speakers site / forum you will find some covered with Suede - it helps damp the cabinets and improves imaging.

But it may not look as good as a nice varnish.

:scratch::scratch:

Hi. the back of the baffles are covered with acoustic cloth / felt. I have toyed with the idea of damping the baskets of the drivers too as I used to have Fostex FE206E's that were tweaked with this among things. Thanks for reminding me.

John
19-10-2009, 06:20
Sondale
Can you introduce yourself in the welcome section it would be good for people to welcome you we quite a friendly lot here

Rare Bird
19-10-2009, 06:51
I used to have an old pair of Diesis speaker (Pre Ruark), they had like a velvet type material bonded to the baffleboards, if i remember RATA 'Olson' speakers have leather bound Baffle boards, the cheap Kef 'Cresta 2' have a letherette covered board..

Rare Bird
22-10-2009, 15:49
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb256/aquapiranha/Open%20Baffle/CIMG3174.jpg

It has two adjustable cutters, but when unleashed, it really is a beast! one slip and you would be able to fit an 8" driver in your torso!


Steve where did you get that cutter from, i only have one leg on mine which is a bit off balance with long stretches!

aquapiranha
22-10-2009, 17:24
Hi Andre. I have to be honest and say I can't remember, though it will most likely have been one of two places, either..

www.rutlands.co.uk

Or ebay!

THT

Tripmaster
22-10-2009, 19:28
How are the OBs coming along?

aquapiranha
22-10-2009, 20:10
How are the OBs coming along?

they are coming along! I have been listening to just the FR's with out the 4 Alpha's connected until the amp arrives. sorry about the poor pic

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb256/aquapiranha/Open%20Baffle/CIMG3188.jpg

Alex_UK
22-10-2009, 20:33
Looking good Steve, looking very good. (Nice colour paint, too, btw! ;) ) (& is that an "IF device" in the basket on the right? No, probably not! :mental: :eyebrows: )

aquapiranha
22-10-2009, 20:37
Thanks Alex. Can you see the ashes in the stove? that is the if device....
The basket is for tinder for the fire.

John
22-10-2009, 20:41
The wood oil has come out really well
Enjoy

Rare Bird
22-10-2009, 20:44
Oil :steam:

:)

aquapiranha
22-10-2009, 21:47
Oil :steam:

:)

It was a fair fight, a three way shout out! TBH I preferred the varnish, sorry Andre!

:confused:

Tripmaster
22-10-2009, 21:52
It was a fair fight, a three way shout out! TBH I preferred the varnish, sorry Andre!

:confused:

'TBH I preferred the varnish' :steam:

;)

aquapiranha
22-10-2009, 21:53
What can I say? I would have preferred to use the oil if only because it is easier to apply.

I'll get me coat....

Tripmaster
22-10-2009, 21:58
What can I say? I would have preferred to use the oil if only because it is easier to apply.

I'll get me coat....


I've left the building...:hotrod:

The Grand Wazoo
22-10-2009, 22:51
I'll get me coat....


No, get all yer coats!
.............and make sure you sand properly between them.

aquapiranha
23-10-2009, 10:15
Lol Chris..

Rare Bird
23-10-2009, 10:27
Lol Chris..


Still say you would have had the best finish with the microporous finish

:sofa:

Tripmaster
23-10-2009, 10:54
http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo189/Tripmaster_photo/arcade-coat-hooks2.jpg

Rare Bird
23-10-2009, 11:09
:lolsign:

Puffin
23-10-2009, 20:21
Those actually are your coats! :ner:

Rare Bird
23-10-2009, 20:32
They aint mine cos i've tried every finish under the sun..I used to be a cabinet maker & the sikkens sugested used to be one of the best modern day finishes.my furnature looks superb.at the end of the day the finish looks shit if it's applied in amatuer fashion

Tripmaster
23-10-2009, 21:20
Those actually are your coats! :ner:

:doh:

Tripmaster
03-11-2009, 08:09
Any news regarding the OBs Steve?

aquapiranha
03-11-2009, 09:44
Hi Richard. I have done nothing more yet as the amp I am supposed to be using has not yet arrived (Sure 4 X 200 W) I am giving them a few more days before I ask for a refund. The amp was sent out of HK on the 15th September (this was a replacement for on that blew) but no sign of it yet. If it does not arrive I will have to look at other options.

:scratch:

John
03-11-2009, 14:04
Can they give u a tracking number Steve at least you can find where it is

aquapiranha
03-11-2009, 17:17
Hi John. yrs they have given me a tracking number however it only says that the parcel has left Hong Kong. It does not say where it has gone after that, though I have told Sure I will give it a few more days it isn't looking good! I am loather to get a refund though as this was a very good price and I doubt I will get anything any where near as good for the money.

:doh:

John
03-11-2009, 21:55
Well hope it works out its quite difficult when ordering stuff abroad my understanding is you do not have the same consumer rights
Usually the tracking order will tell you if its in customs I wonder did they send it via boat instead of airmail

jonners
06-12-2009, 10:47
Are your OBs playing yet, Steve?

aquapiranha
06-12-2009, 10:55
Hi John. I have essentially finished the speakers (just need to solder up the connections on one of them, a pain with magnet wire!) and I am working on boxing the amp. I was hoping to have them up and running this weekend, but it now looks like sometime this wekk. I will post my findings when I have them going. Thanks, Steve

:)

John
06-12-2009, 12:29
good to hear they nearly up and running