Connoisseur BD1 turntable.

[walpurgis]

Who remembers the Connoisseur BD1 (and BD2)? Those who know these little units seem to have very polarised views, you either love them or hate them, I have a great fondness for them, because of their sheer basic simplicity and the fact that if they are set up properly they deliver remarkably good sound. I'm starting this thread as I've just unearthed a BD1 I'd forgotten I owned and I'm very tempted to resurrect it. I've also found a pile of new spares which should help. I had my last one a few years ago, running alongside my Garrad 401 and enjoyed it just as much as the Garrard. Both worked well with Mission 774 arms onboard (see thumbnail, sorry about the dust!). I've owned many BD1s over the years and a few BD2s, which I was less keen on. The one to get is the earlier version without the notch in the motor pulley which was added to facilitate speed change, as it can affect the smooth running of the belt and also avoid the models with speed change mechanisms or remove the mechanism from them. In it's day the BD1 had very favourable reviews, it was low on rumble due to a very good main bearing and had a quite weighty platter, which was only ten inches across, but this did not seem to affect the unit's abilities. They're good fun to own, but do require looking after as the motor suspension needs rebuilding every couple of years, easy job though. The belts have lasted me ten years or more and are still available, along with other parts. Geoff.

[MartinT]

I had a BD1 as my very first turntable. I made a solid wood plinth for it and mounted an SME3009-II arm with Empire 2000E/III cartridge. I finished it off with Micro Seiki feet. That deck lasted me a long time and worked very reliably. It sounded good, too.

[walpurgis]

That sounds much like how my first one was set up. I had the Micro Seiki feet too. The arm was an Audio Technica AT-1005 II and if I remember correctly the cartridge was an ADC 220XE. I used this with a Ferrograph F307 amplifier and a pair of Tannoy IIILZ speakers. I thought it all sounded great at the time, many moons ago, probably about 1977 (shows how old I am).

A note to anybody trying out an old Connoisseur: If you start one up that's not been used for a while, you may get what seems like a burning smell. Do not be alarmed, its the ceramic insulation on the wire wound resistor in the power supply burning off absorbed moisture as it warms up and this will dissipate. I've come across it several times.

Geoff.

[MartinT]

Nice arm, that AT. I remember the Acos Lustre arm being available dead cheap at the same time as the SME, but I saved up for the latter. Truth is, the Acos was a fine arm too. I think I built my BD1 around 1976, when I was in LVI at school. I also bought a glass platter to make it 12" and that helped the sound too.

Rest of my system was a Linsley-Hood 75W amp and Cambridge R40 speakers.

[DSJR]

Back in my Linn/Naim agressive days and to my eternal shame, I remember being extremely dismissive of a client who wanted a rubber-band style motor decoupling replacement for his BD1 - Gawd, I was an arrogant cnut sometimes and it's threads like this which remind me too much of my former life :(

Seriously though, I believe the one thing that either made or killed a BD1 and BD2 was the motor, it's vibration and the effects of this. Maybe with a modern power supply/re-generator arrangement to cut the motor vibration down and very careful mounting of same, together with a suitable simple plinth, I've no doubt the deck could work really well these days.

If the motor is a 110V model adjusted for 230V as Rega and Linn use(d), maybe someone could draw out the "2000" issue Rega P3 circuit board, since the little network of resistors Rega used cut the motor vibration right down and enabled the motor to be stuck to the top laminate of the plinth with no rumble/vibration issues. I can't remember of the P2-2000 was the same, but it probably was and a universal kit was available to update older Regas. I suspect that many Thorens owners could benefit too, as well as possibly the owners of BD1's and 2's...

[MartinT]

When my BD1 motor decoupling bands aged, I just used normal rubber bands as replacements!

[walpurgis]

I stopped using elastic bands on my motor suspension and started using thin round neoprene drive belting intead. It lasted twice as long, didn't sag and has a degree of self damping. It worked well.

I have a design in mind for a different suspension, sitting the motor on a rubber pad and using three damped springs to centralise it, with the whole assembly isolated on bushes. I might give it a whirl on this BD1 I've just found.

[myles]

There is a BD2 on eeeebay at the mo, 30 mins to go and about £8!! It doesnt have a needle but the motor works, thats their expert opinion!!

[shane]

And a BD1 for £1.20 with 1 day to go.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CONNOISSEUR-BD1-TURNTABLE-MOTOR-UNIT-/200774901961?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiF i_Turntables&hash=item2ebf1de0c9#ht_2690wt_1081

[maxrob200]

had a BD1 with a Grace 707 tonearm for quite awhile. Couldnt get used to the small platter but it sounded quite good once the supoorted tracks on the inside was playing. Like the little kick start rubber thingy on the on/off lever

[Rare Bird]

Connoisseur 'BD1' are great i bought one last week :eyebrows:

[walpurgis]

Have you used it yet? If so how's it set up and with what arm & cart?

[MartinT]

Nice one, Andr'e. Have you spun any prog on it yet?

[keiths]

The bd1 is indirectly responsible for me getting started with hi-fi - my cousin getting one (with a SAU2 arm, I think) meant his Garrard SP25 mk 3 was surplus to requirements, so he passed the Garrard on to me and the rest is history :)

[walpurgis]

That's funny. I went from an SP25 Mk.III to a BD1 too. Then a few years later onto a TD150!

[Rare Bird]

Have you used it yet? If so how's it set up and with what arm & cart?

It's still sat here in the box, i'm in the middle of making a plinth for it. I'll be fitting my Mayware 'Formula 4' arm/ADC '26' cart for time being.

Intresting that you use Ferrograph 'F307' amp being my Fav vintage amp :eyebrows: & also funny you prefer the unit without the notch & speed change lever because i purposly bought this example because it had those two details ... :lol:

I do need a new belt as i cocked up this afternoon & lost a NOS original belt on auction :steam: I really don't like buying modern compatable belts for decks..

[walpurgis]

The Mayware/ADC26 combo should be nice. You probably know this, but the Mayware may be best used with the tracking force weight moved right back and the downforce set with a balance, otherwise you might have arm mass conflicts with the high ADC compliance.

The F307 was truly well built, on a par with the Quads. The contemporary Radfords/Leaks/Metrosounds and Sugdens, etc., etc., may have sounded good enough, but were not finished as well. I know, I owned them all at one time or another. The Ferrograph was always slightly prone to hum though. It came as a shock when after a couple of years I replaced it with a Rotel RA-611, which completely outclassed it in every way!

The notch on the later BD1 pulley tends to 'clip' the belt on each rotation and makes a noise, this can also affect speed stability. The speed changer can also foul the belt as the motor suspension settles, the speed can be changed by hand so easily, its not worth retaining the changer.

I think if you do a search on the net, you'll find the belts and other parts still available. The supplier was Technical & General, Box 53, Crowborough, TN6 2BY (01892 654534). I did business with them a few times. They were a rather secretive lot years ago, dealing with military/government contracts I suspect.

Just had a rummage, I've got five old belts and four new ones, two spare motors and a spare new main bearing. I expect the old belts are knackered, but I can spare a new belt if you want one, they are genuine. Make me a sensible offer if you like.

[Rare Bird]

Hi Geoff
You sound like a man i can clearly converse with on AOS which seems like a breath of fresh air, others seem obsessesed with the usualy run of the mill rubbish lol.

Actually even though i love the 'F307' i spend more time listerning to an old late 60's Trio 'TK150T' (Pre KA2000), i have loads of amps this era :lol: piles of them in every available corner :rfl:

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w425/ELPFAN1968/Picture128.jpg

Awesome, i'm always on the look outfor late 60's jap amps especialy the Rotel 100 which is very hard to locate... in my eyes the ADC '26' is the best ever cartridge' :eyebrows:

[Rare Bird]

The Mayware/ADC26 combo should be nice. You probably know this, but the Mayware may be best used with the tracking force weight moved right back and the downforce set with a balance


Don't worry about that Geoff thats exactly how i have it.

[walpurgis]

Ah, I sold off a couple of Trio KA2000A amplifiers not too long ago. That's the later, but basically similar model to the KA2000, but has the half chrome finish control panel. They are very under-rated amplifiers and sound extremely good, a lot like the first Sugden A21, i.e., very detailed, transparent and clean!

I've now stopped buying old (classic?) japanese gear. I simply don't have room. All I'm keeping are two turntables, a direct drive Toshiba SR-370 that weighs a ton and a belt drive Pioneer PL61, that's the big job with separate arm and huge 'Hall Effect' motor. Both very good decks.

By the way, I've found something that has beaten the ADC cartridges (in my view). My old Technics EPC 305MC was definitely better in all respects, although I still love the ADCs. But even the Technics has been beaten. I now own three ZYX moving coil cartridges and find them astonishing, even the 'budget' R50 Bloom sounds fantastic.

[Rare Bird]

Ah well, no changing my mind with the ADC!

[Barry]

Ah well, no changing my mind with the ADC!

I should hope not! ;)

If you do have a change of mind, return the cartridge to me: I could do things with it. :eyebrows:

[Rare Bird]

Don't worry Barry it's not going anywhere..:eyebrows: Where's the best place for replacement styli?

[walpurgis]

Carole's Needles in the USA. She has ADC new old stock styli. Carole is helpful and very nice to deal with. You can buy from her website and she also sells on eBay.

[Rare Bird]

Thanks Geoff

:thumbsup:

[Rare Bird]

Ah, I sold off a couple of Trio KA2000A amplifiers not too long ago. That's the later, but basically similar model to the KA2000, but has the half chrome finish control panel. They are very under-rated amplifiers and sound extremely good, a lot like the first Sugden A21, i.e., very detailed, transparent and clean!




This one you mean? I forgotten where i put it :eyebrows:

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w425/ELPFAN1968/KA2000A.jpg

[walpurgis]

That's the kiddie. What a nice little amp. Lovely sound quality. One of my best mates has my last one, along with my Rotel RA611 (another goodie). I might twist his arm and get one of them back.

By the way, I read all those Hi-Fi Sound mags you've got there first time around. I've still got the 1973/4/5 annuals.

[Rare Bird]

I had little play about this morning, i was originally going to remove the motor from the top plate, isolate it making it a bit more sturdy mounting in some kind of inbuilt pod but decided against that as i really want to retain the originality of the design although theres always room to improve on things within keeping pretty much to the original.

The Rubber web had broken down like they generally do over the years, but didnt want anymore problems in the future having to replace it again. I remembered back to the old Logic 'Tempo' turntable & how they used 'O' rings to suspend the motor & though that be the perfect answer. As the original 'BD1' mounting plate is ok off i went with box of various size 'O' rings. In short a sucessful way of replacing that rubber web, with something that i feel is a far better way of doing it & cost pennies in the process. I think i've decided on 'O' rings with 10mm internal diameter, not had time to play with an 'O' ring size for the tension band as yet..

Anyway here's how it now looks now, great stuff hangs from the rings. Ive decided i'm going to replace the plastic mounting plate with a lazer cut aluminium version later on as plastic gives me the creeps :D

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w425/ELPFAN1968/Old_Spider.jpg

(Original Rubber web)

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w425/ELPFAN1968/Replacements.jpg

(Trying out various size 'O' rings)

http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w425/ELPFAN1968/Fitted.jpg

(Success albeit i prefer a new aluminium version of the mounting plate instead of plastic).

[walpurgis]

Looks good! You'll find the 'O' rings perish after a year or so. Easy to re-do though and the neoprene has a degree of self damping which is handy. My whole BD1 deck was suspended on 'O' rings (see thumbnail).

[Rare Bird]

I Geoff
Yeh i noticed those, good idea, no good for me tho i'm stuck in the late 60's foot fall isshews are my thang :lol:

I personally think the 'O' ring idea will last a lot longer than a year or so imho, they may stretch in the future but wont snap.. at the end of the day you can get a bag full for peanuts

All good fun tho innit. :)

[walpurgis]

I agree. The tinkering is half the fun. A lot of my gear has been modified by me or self built in the past. I love making speakers and turntable systems.

[Rare Bird]

Get this then:
Put this unit in a proper surround (Which i have), according to my Ears, sounds better than my Garrard '401', Goldring/Lenco 'GL75', Thorens 'TD150'..People who slate these Connies, they have something radically wrong with their tab holes!!

[MartinT]

The BD1 was a great deck, Andr'e, but I never rated the arm much.

[Rare Bird]

Andr'e! No personal stuuf please i ant intrested

Who mentioned the arm?

[walpurgis]

Martin is right,

the SAU2 arm is not great. It can't even keep the cartridge vertical across the record due to the diagonal gimbal bearings, as it goes from the outer gooves to the inner, it tilts the stylus from one side to the other, not good!

The BD1 however, is a good little unit. I had one running alongside my Garrard 401, both decks with similar arms on and they both sounded great. The Garrard is a bit tighter and weightier, but the Connoiseur is vibrant and musical. It was an absolute bargain in it's day.

[DSJR]

If the motor can be sorted and drive belts got, a decent full size mat/record support may well make all the difference. By now, the main bearings should be fine and not worn out - more polished in I hope :)

[walpurgis]

I have tried the BD1 with plastic and glass full width mats and not heard any improvement.

From my experience (and I've had about ten BD1s) the 10" platter and mat are not a compromise and the best combination is the old mat with the concentric ribbing, topped with a thin felt mat cut down to size.

The later BD1 mat with the radial ribs is ok, I just find the older one best.

[shane]

Interesting to note the comparisons with the Garrard. The Connoisseur motor is a fairly substantial device, and I suspect is a good bit more powerful than the Linn/Rega/Airpax/Premotec. I've always thought high motor torque is a major part of what makes idlers (and the better DDs) sound good, so maybe there's something in it.

[walpurgis]

Just found this tucked away in my stockpile of goodies, so I've resurrected this thread.

http://i49.tinypic.com/1oxeaa.jpg

I thought I had another one knocking about, sold two others off last year.

It needs fettling, the motor suspension has disintegrated, easy to fix, the main bearing is nice and tight and I just happen to have a lift off acrylic lid the right size for a completed TT.

I also have a box of spares including belts, motors and a brand new main bearing, so it seems another project may be starting shortly. Not that I need another TT, but it'll be fun.

Anybody got a cheap pickup arm?

[MartinT]

Gosh, memories. My first proper turntable, that was.

[walpurgis]

My first proper TT too (with an AT-1005 arm), that's why I've got a soft spot for them,
They do sound remarkably good set up right.

[wiicrackpot]

Threw one out many moons ago, before internet and hanging out in places like here. :(

[MartinT]

My first proper TT too (with an AT-1005 arm)

Lovely, I had an SME 3009-II Improved and an Empire 2000E/III cartridge.

[walpurgis]

I had the same combination at one time. the Empire was quite a sweet sounding cartridge, but then I discovered ADCs and Deccas and my world changed.

[maxrob200]

I had one of those too...my first turntable with a Grace 707 tonearm

[Westyman]

I had a BD1, made from a kit I think, with SAU2 arm and can't remember the cartridge, maybe a Shure of some type. Built it all into a box with Trio KA 2000 amp. Sold it for a disappointing Rega t/t.
At my uni HIfi society we had a talk from one of the journos of the time, a blind guy (Angus Mackenzie???) and be guy asked him a Q about t/ts but didn't say what he'd got. After a bit of a push form the speaker he said a BD1 and he was told it was an excellent t/t. This would be around 1970.

[walpurgis]

I had a BD1, made from a kit I think, with SAU2 arm and can't remember the cartridge, maybe a Shure of some type. Built it all into a box with Trio KA 2000 amp. Sold it for a disappointing Rega t/t.
At my uni HIfi society we had a talk from one of the journos of the time, a blind guy (Angus Mackenzie???) and be guy asked him a Q about t/ts but didn't say what he'd got. After a bit of a push form the speaker he said a BD1 and he was told it was an excellent t/t. This would be around 1970.

Well, I bought my first (one of many) BD1 back around then, maybe 1972. Since that time I've had about ten Connoisseurs if you include the BD2s. I recently unearthed my last remaining BD1 and intend to resurrect it before too long. Set up right they are remarkably good and surprisingly spares are still available.

[Rare Bird]

I still have a mint one but i can't us it because of my OCD :lol:

As you know the platter to edge of the metal plate (front/rear & left hand side are all of different measurements! it does my head in :D

[walpurgis]

Better give it to me then Andr'e. I hate to think of you fretting over the asymmetric dimensions all the time.

[caddisgeek]

I had one a while too, lovely musical bit of kit and a classic example of British engineering

[candg.wales]

Hi guys

Just stumbled in this thread and it's like reading my own hi fi history. In the 70,s I was a hi fi salesman and sold many of the old classics like this TT

Now semi retired and returned to vinyl with a passion

I just bought a BD1 and SAU2 on eBay

Best wishes to you all

Graham

[walpurgis]

Hi guys

Just stumbled in this thread and it's like reading my own hi fi history. In the 70,s I was a hi fi salesman and sold many of the old classics like this TT

Now semi retired and returned to vinyl with a passion

I just bought a BD1 and SAU2 on eBay

Best wishes to you all

Graham

I wish you hadn't done that Graham.

Buy the SAU2 as well I mean. The BD1 turntable is a little cracker, but that arm is the pits! The dual diagonal gimbal bearings make it impossible for the cartridge to stay properly upright across the width of the record as the headshell tilts from side to side according to where it is in the groove. Also, the flimsy plastic headshell does the sound no favours either.

Flog it off quickly and get your money back, then buy an arm worthy of the BD1. I used a Mission 774 with one for years. Good combination! I guess a Rega would give presentable results, not tried that combination myself though.

[MartinT]

That's good advice, Graham. The BD1 is a little gem but the SAU2 is unfortunately not in the same class. I used mine with an SME 3009-II but you could pick up a nice Acos Lustre for peanuts I would think.

[candg.wales]

Thanks for the feedback guys, I suspected that the SAU2 was not up to scratch, but the unit is boxed and in great condition, and includes an Ortofon OM10 cartridge. I bought this more as a financial investment, given the terrible state of savings rates in the UK. I am using up some savings to buy classic equipment instead of earning nothing from savings.

In the 70,s I was a Hi Fi salesman, and have been an audio geek since then. I am an avid collector and have several Thorens and Lenco turntables, 3 SME 3009,s, a Linn LVX, and a Rega 250.

My audio system (owned from new since 1975) comprises a Quad 33 with 2 Quad 405,s biamping my original Mission 753,s and REL Stadium sub.

I am currently restoring a Thorens TD 125 mk ii/ SME 3009 ii imp/ Shure V15 ii and two Lenco projects.

I have no knowledge of this Ortofon OM10, is it any good ?



Best wishes

Graham

[walpurgis]

It's a long time since I heard an OM10, but my recollection was of an inoffensive, 'safe' sound, which was rather unexciting.

[Rare Bird]

You will always get people slating the 'BD-1' I still have mine in a box somewhere & once you sort out the cradle that holds the motor aswell as try get the early motor pulley there's nothing wrong with em imho.. The platters are very well made if you can live with the small diameter..

[MartinT]

I used a thin Rega glass mat with mine. It was a great match.

By 'early pulley', do you mean the one that had the speed change ramps?

[Rare Bird]

Hi Martin
No the one without, they tent to chink on those your on about imho, those are ok till the motor starts sagging a bit..

[MartinT]

Oh yes, you had to keep the motor alignment just so otherwise you could hear the belt rub against a ramp each revolution.

[candg.wales]

Great to be in this thread guys. What is the mod for the motor suspension ?

Cheers

Graham

[Rare Bird]

Ive seen a few mods over the years, i did a thread a bit back where i used three 'O' Rings but i can't find it, i tried a few different diameters but forget which, you can still buy the cradles/webs if you prefer original!

http://www.signalsuk.co.uk/signals_shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=56

[walpurgis]

I stopped using the standard arrangement of elastic bands and went to neoprene bands instead, it worked well and lasted about five years before replacing as opposed to the 18 months of the elastic bands. Another advantage was the high self damping of neoprene, none of the springy bobbing about of the motor that the elastic gave.

[Rare Bird]

The good thing about the 'O' ring arrangement is you can buy a box full for next to nothing :eyebrows:

[Beobloke]

You will always get people slating the 'BD-1' ...

:wave:

[MartinT]

I do like your avatar, Adam, it made me laugh out loud the first time I saw it :)

[connoisseur_sme]

Hello!

Thought I would add to this thread as I have also found a Connoisseur BD1 with a non-notched pulley. It was my Dad's when he was 17. It is fitted with an SME iii S tone arm and a Shure V35 HE cartridge and stylus.

When it was found in the attic it was covered in dust and grime which I have cleaned off. The motor had fallen off the bottom and the motor to turntable drive belt was broken and perished.

I have remounted the motor using a some rubber elastic bands. My Dad said he did that when the original mounting perished and it seems this is a trick suggested earlier in this thread. I also obtained a replacement turntable belt from ebay for £14.

I have now got it going of sorts. I have tested the deck using a 1961 Decca test LP and clearly the stylus needs replacement according to my Dad! I am from the digital era so this is a bit new to me.

The BD1 is mounted on a wood plinth and my Dad ( a retired electronics engineer) made his own phono pre amp which is mounted in a tin under the plinth.

I am not sure what the belt from ebay is made from. It is like a shiny plasticy materiel. It is also vibrating like a plucked rubber band when it leaves the groove on the platter goes round the motor pulley and joins the platter groove again.

This is despite the fact the motor, pully and spindle is not vibrating. If you remove the belt and touch the motor there is no vibration. Place the ebay belt on and the vibration starts. This is causing a slight background hum in the speakers. My Dad checked the deck today and said I have mounted the motor well and it is not touching the casing and gave encouragement.

I am now pondering if the belt were made of rubber if this would stop. The feel of this belt does not seem "right". When I pull it through my fingers it seems to squeak - or vibrate - perhaps what is happening on the record deck. The pulley also skids and vibrates when the motor starts then calms down and runs at good speed.

Thinking this may be an issue I cobbled together a rubber belt made by joining elastic bands and while this would not stay on for long and was experimental the vibration in the belt where it comes of the turntable, round the pulley and back onto the turntable seemed to disappear.

Can anyone advise if a rubber belt is available or does anyone have any work arounds? Perhaps the belt I purchased from ebay is no good but it said suitable for the BD1/2 but was made in a motor industry belt manufacturer.

I would quite like to get this going well - for sentimental purposes to be honest and I have some records I would like to play.

Do you think the ebay belt materiel is problematic?

Best Wishes....

[willbewill]

Try thoroughly cleaning the motor pulley and platter with isopropyl alcohol, or methylated spirits, then clean and lightly dust the belt with talcum powder before refitting.

[walpurgis]

The original BD1 (BD2) belts were ground finish rubber. I'm assuming you are using a new replacement belt? If so, they are made from Neoprene and a bit less resilient. I've found that gently stretching them a few times makes them run round the motor pulley more smoothly.

Also, there should be a small metal hook on the underside of the top plate in front of the motor. A short rubber band is supposed to go from this to the corresponding plastic hook on the motor. This stabilises the motor and prevents the pulley from being pulled too far forward by the belt tension. In my case, I've used neoprene 'O' rings, as they last longer.

A tip. Don't use thin oil in the main platter bearing, it'll wear out. A drop of car engine oil or even better, gearbox oil is best. There are no sintered parts in the bearing so any additives will not cause problems.

[connoisseur_sme]

Hello walpurgis,

I am so glad you have come back to this thread.

Yes I think this materiel of the cheap ebay belt is Neoprene. I have used rubber stationery bands to suspend the motor. My dad tole me that is how he always repaired it.

I have come a long way with it so far having cleaned it up, removed the scratches from the lid and polished it on a polishing machine.

Today my dad came round to help me with this humming problem and said he could never remember one and would not have put up with it being an audiophile. We then found this neoprene belt resonating and he said the belt he had never did that.

In fact what I can say is I have rotated the tunrtable with no power and the belt is vibrating with no motor on - so I am pretty sure it is not caused by the motor. Perhaps somehow it becomes twanged when it leaves the turntable groove to go round the pully.

The player looks smart actually. It is set in a 1.6mm deep wood effect MDF and has tall rubberised feet. underneath is a home made phono preamp that works from a power output he had on another home made amplifier but he said this could be convetrted to battery or perhaps power pack but I have a NAD PP4 phono preamp.

I was going to go and buy a turntable and then we looked in dads loft and found his old one and a whole treasure trove of viny from his teens inclusing Rolling Stones, Beatles, Shadows all in meticulous condition. Then of course the BD1 and I said I wonder if I could get it going. He said he had looked for a belt some years ago but couldn't get one..... So then the BD1 met 2017 internet and I got one. My dad was nearly moved to tears when he saw it going yesterday so I am keen to get these niggles sorted.

I wouldn't mind perhaps remounting it a nice Danish Oiled 3.5mm thick Oak block and change the tarnished screws for some brass ones.

With regards to the tone arm my Dad remembered he had a SME series 2 loafing somewhere in the Shed and he found it out for me in case it could be needed.

Clearly the stylus needs replacing from the sound produced on the test LP but we weighed its force and it was 1.4g

[walpurgis]

The motor pulley is a friction fit on the motor spindle and can be moved up and down to find the optimal position. That should help with even running.

Is the steel top plate of the BD1 earthed to the SME arm? If not run an extra wire from the earth wire tag on the motor, to the arm. That may cure the hum.

[walpurgis]

I'd forgotten how old this thread was. I started it over five years ago. :)

[connoisseur_sme]

Geoff,

I am going to try and upload some photos for you to see. I am just familiarising myself with the workings of this forum

[connoisseur_sme]

Hi Geoff,

Here are some photos of the BD1 top and the underside. I have taken the lid off the home made pre-amp so you can see inside. It is in fact an old tobacco tin!


http://theartofsound.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21489&d=1506769803

http://theartofsound.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21488&d=1506769779

[Barry]

Hi Geoff,

Here are some photos of the BD1 top and the underside. I have taken the lid off the home made pre-amp so you can see inside. It is in fact an old tobacco tin!


http://theartofsound.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21489&d=1506769803

http://theartofsound.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21488&d=1506769779

Jez Arkless would approve! ;)

[connoisseur_sme]

Not sure if that is a compliment. Who is Jez Arkless?

My Dad was an apprentice at the time working in the television and wireless repair industry. So he had not much money but he and his mates were into their audio and had to make things because to buy was too costly when you are earning buttons. I think it's a good effort. How many younguns are doing things like this today when they actually tear themselves away from XBOX online.

[connoisseur_sme]

Geoff,

These are the test records I have used to see how well the deck works. The tests on here are quite severe and demanding. One record has an area to test anti skate etc.

http://theartofsound.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=21491&d=1506777024

[walpurgis]

Do yourself a favour and ignore the test records. You don't need them to set the turntable and arm up. If anything, the results from test records can lead you up the garden path! :)

[connoisseur_sme]

I can't see an earth directly from the metal top plate to the tone arm ground. The under side of the main metal part is painted black but there is no cable direct from that to the tone arm. There is a cable from a screw on the motor to the earth - its a black coily cable.

I can't really be too far off getting this running. New cartridge or stylus is needed - could you maybe suggest a suitable one? Once that is replaced and the hum from the belt vibration is sorted it is all go I think.

[walpurgis]

I can't see an earth directly from the metal top plate to the tone arm ground. The under side of the main metal part is painted black but there is no cable direct from that to the tone arm. There is a cable from a screw on the motor to the earth - its a black coily cable.

I can't really be too far off getting this running. New cartridge or stylus is needed - could you maybe suggest a suitable one? Once that is replaced and the hum from the belt vibration is sorted it is all go I think.

There's a wire running from the terminal block to the arm. I assume that's the earth. it looks as though the motor is earthed there too. The bolt through the terminal block earths to the chassis/top plate. You may wish to ensure this bolt is making proper metal to metal contact with the top plate. Just undo it and clean the surfaces if needed.

If you still get hum, try disconnecting the earth to the arm and see if that does anything. Turntable earthing can be a funny business.

You have three options really as far as cartridges are concerned. A new stylus, if you can source a decent one. Or a new cheap cartridge just to get everything running, or something dearer to use long term.

[walpurgis]

I've had many Connoisseur turntables, but I've never used an SME III, I do know that it has a composite headshell. That will isolate the cartridge body and some cartridges need earthing to the arm. There may be an earth in the headshell for this. Other members may have info on this.

[Barry]

Not sure if that is a compliment. Who is Jez Arkless?

My Dad was an apprentice at the time working in the television and wireless repair industry. So he had not much money but he and his mates were into their audio and had to make things because to buy was too costly when you are earning buttons. I think it's a good effort. How many younguns are doing things like this today when they actually tear themselves away from XBOX online.

Jez is an electronics engineer and a Member here. He has some firmly held, and expressed, views about the unnecessary use of 'fancy' enclosures, cables and connectors.

I used to build my own gear when I was a student and unable to buy 'off the shelf'. I still prefer to assemble my own cables and occasionally will 'knock up' a piece of kit to try out an idea. I have built a number of phonostages and head amps, published in the audio magazines.

[connoisseur_sme]

I have done some more work on this deck today.

I have checked the entire earthing circuit and have cleaned all screws and washers of tarnishing. I have meticulously checked that the motor is not touching the casing or base plate and it is not.

I have ensure the base plate has an path to earth. The neoprene belt still seems to resonate. I have cleaned the platter edge, top, belt groove, motor pulley. The neoprene belt materiel feel kind of tacky - like a sticky feel to it - not that it sticks to you but it feel tacky. I have a feeling that it unsticks as it comes out of the groove and behaves like a plucked guitar string.

I am now also thinking it could be the knackered stylus in some way. And it really is proper knackered. Something that is interesting is that if i press lightly on the tonearm the background hum goes. This is even if I touch the non conductive areas of it like the headshell which seems like some kind of plastic. If I simply touch the side of these areas ie place no pressure on the stylus the background hum remains - so surely this is not an eathing issue as the noise would go whether touched on the side of the metal bits or the top.

The stylus was also dirty so have attempted to clean it following careful instructions found on the web and YouTube and the actual stylus simply fell apart so the upshot now is that if I want to even try to get this going I need to buye either a replacement stylus for the Shure VN35HE or an enture new cartridge.

I am born from the digital age so this is all quite a new audio and technical adventure so thanks guys for your help. In terms of replacement cartridges I have considered three options:

1. go with the current Shure (better the devil known) and replace the current with the Shure M97XE
2. The Ortofon Bronze or Black
3. The Goldring 1042

The thing is I was intent on purchasing a record player in any event. Budget of no more that £1k to £1.2k. So would transfer the more expensive ones listed here over if this Connoisseur project can't go anywhere.

In terms of replacing the cartridge how easy is this? It appears to be 4 pull out connectors with coloured wires. The headshell has a number of screws dotted about all over it. Are cartridges a standard fitment?

[walpurgis]

It could be that the belt has some contamination on it. Give it a wash with washing up liquid. You won't hurt it. Might be an idea to clean the platter and pulley belt gooves again if that's the case.

I personally would look at a new cartridge rather than a replacement stylus for the Shure, assuming you could even locate a genuine Shure made item.

The Ortofon and Goldring are moderately costly. A Nagoaka MP-100 would give you a good start with this turntable at reasonable outlay.

The Connoisseur/SME combo should give pretty good results once up and running correctly. The BD1 is quite fun to tinker with and dead reliable, as long as the motor suspension is changed every now and then.

Your £1k/£1.2k turntable budget is a bit of a funny price point. There are decks I like below that price and above, but not much actually of that cost that I'd be particularly looking at.

Changing the cartridge should be easy. You'd need a small screwdriver and a pair of strong tweezers or small narrow nosed pliers to deal with the tags going to the cartridge pins. And you'll need an algnment protractor. Just get a simple one or print one off the net (to the right scale). Google for info on VTA (arm height), bias (anti skating), azimuth, etc. The cartridge should come with downforce details.

There's a guide here: http://www.audiophilia.com/reviews/2016/1/17/a-beginners-guide-to-cartridge-setup

[connoisseur_sme]

I am actually having quite some fun with this Geoff.

I am really unfamiliar with turntables, styluses and tonearms. I was quite shocked to discover the cheapest SME arm is now about £1800!! :stalks::stalks: My dad said he had to do some overtime to pay for his! Incidentally he has found his SME type 2 in a box in the shed.

It looks like the BD1 was a hobby project. Am I right in thinking that if I wanted to I could remount the deck in a different wood slab. I have contact with a sawmill who can provide me free a nice piece of local oak of say 3.5cm thickness which would look nice for this treated with Danish oil - using a jigsaw and hole saw to cut out the correct holes for the tone arm and deck? My dad has used blue tack to rest the deck on the wood - I think for damping. I was wondering if sorbathene could do this?

I have got some ideas for motor mountings that may have more longevity that stationery rubber bands. Perhaps using inner tube type materiel and making a new type of plasic mounting.

[walpurgis]

I'd get the whole thing up and running before worrying about more elaborate plinths for the moment. The BD1 does however respond well to a beefy base.

Putting something under the steel top plate can be useful. I've used sheet craft foam of around 1.5mm thickness. It compresses and damps, but leaves the turntable easy to remove.

There was an upgraded motor mounting towards the end of the BD1/BD2 production, consisting of a rubber 'spider'. Similar can be obtained (at a steep price): http://www.signalsuk.com/Shop/Audio/Motor/9497-Sugden-Connoisseur-Motor-Suspension-Kit.html

[agk]

Quite frankly I'd bin it and spend some of that grand on something nice.

[connoisseur_sme]

Maybe you subscribe to a throw away society. But I don't. Plus it belongs to my Dad so would like to get it going, it isn't mine to bin and in which case I would have saved my money - or at least had a very modest outlay.

[helma]

First thing get a new belt, there's a company in the UK called "Technical and General" up to few years ago they still had original belts for the BD1/BD2, the aftermarket replacements are "sort of ok" at best, at least that's been my experience. T&G doesn't have a website but if you google them up you should find an email address for them :) Really sounds like the belt you have is missing things up. Also there's a capacitor parallel to the power switch, if that had drifted very far from original value with age, it can create parasitic voltage which will cause the motor to vibrate excessively (I had that happen, took me ages to figure out...) but it doesn't sound like that's the problem with your unit.

Motor vibrations transmitted to the platter through the belt (or from lack of proper motor mounting) will sound like a hum. But obviously also make sure it's not a ground hum you are battling. But again, I suspect the belt. Good luck, sounds like a nice project and should make sweet music after you get it sorted.

[walpurgis]

Technical and General are defunct as far as I'm aware. Last time I saw anything to do with them was about twenty years ago, when they had a stand at the Tonbridge Audio Jumble. I took the opportunity to stock up on Connoisseur spares (and still have a good selection :)).

[connoisseur_sme]

Hi!

Further to this project I have decided to bin the player....

JOKE

No I actually have a proper rubber belt on the way and my Dad found inthe loft in a bx with reel to reel tapes and various bits and pieces a boxed VN35HA stylus. Also the SME tools - little spanner and allen keys and the SME protractor.

He think the proper box for it and the SME 2 he had in the shed (now indoors!) is in the loft somewhere.

I have done some experimenting tonight. The replacement of the proper knackered VN35HE has made a giant leap ahead - but I have ordered a full new cartridge. I have disconnected the belt and placed the stylus down on a record ""lead out??"" section (the middle bit) and the motor running and there was no noises unless I turned the amp volume to full maximum. Once the ebay belt was reconnected the hum returned.

Replacement of the stylus - sounds good as it is - so hopefully a new cartridge will be good?!?!

Think I am judging too harshly with this too - as coming from the CD age I am expecting no noises - and I need to shift that mindset.

One thing I can say and I may start a thread on this elsewhere unless there is one already.

I treated myself to a brand new sealed LP version of a band I like and was horrified to discover both records of the double LP set was actually warped!. Curious I did a Google and seemed to discover this being a more widespread issue... Anyone here experienced it?

Thanks for the encouragement.

PS - Out of interest Geoff what modern deck could you recommend for a budget up to £1500? Maybe slightly more?
PPS - Geoff, it seems you are right about polarised views on this deck - across the web simply a Marmite appeal.

[walpurgis]

Out of interest Geoff what modern deck could you recommend for a budget up to £1500? Maybe slightly more?

That is virtually an impossible question to answer Richie. The choice is considerable and whatever I suggest, others here will probably be horrified and offer their idea of 'better' alternatives.

Anyway, if you want a reliable decent sounding turntable that works as slickly as a Rolls Royce, I'd suggest a Mk.II Technics SL-1200 or SL-1210 (the numbers just denote silver or black finish). The problem with that option is that although the standard deck works brilliantly, there are a huge amount of 'upgrade' paths open to you, which can get addictive and expensive.

Your budget could also buy a clean used recent Linn Sondek LP12. I dislike them, but many don't.

A less obvious choice could be something from Clearaudio. The standard of engineering and sound quality are very good indeed. The products are also attractive to look at.

Of course, you could always try what I use. A vintage Toshiba SR-370 direct drive turntable. Solid as a rock, very hefty and reliable too. It is designed to accept an SME arm and is still surprisingly modest in cost, although they are gaining some belated recognition for their abilities and prices are slowly rising, probably due to me going on about them on the net :). Great turntable!




.

[helma]

Technical and General are defunct as far as I'm aware. Last time I saw anything to do with them was about twenty years ago, when they had a stand at the Tonbridge Audio Jumble. I took the opportunity to stock up on Connoisseur spares (and still have a good selection :)).

I did business with them as recently as February 2015 - communicated with email and paid with PayPal :D I bought a twin pack of belts + an old style motor pulley (without the notch to aid in 33/45 speed change) + a metal headshell. They had some more parts in stock still as well, including replacement arm skeletons (I guess this was the tube only without bearings). For some reason I couldn't find the full parts & price list in my emails though I'm sure I received one. The belts were proper original "ground rubber" types instead of the o-ring replacements some places sell (and which don't really work as well).

[curry49]

Hi,

This is for anyone interested in TT alternatives: I recently tested my Ittok on my SL1700, Thorens 125, and standard Lenco 75. They all sounded as good or better than my vintage LP12 (unless the Linn's colourations count in its favour in anyone's opinion).

The Linn is now sold, leaving all the others (plus a BD 2 and a Thorens 145). Besides a Lenco, the biggest bargain would be something like my SL 1700, which I'd bought for the equivalent of 60 bucks. My advice to anyone interested is to go for one of these, or their reasonably priced equivalents, and simply make sure to install a quality arm. (And the arm doesn't have to be as expensive as an Ittok either).

For instance, the majority of the budget could be used on getting the best arm possible (Jelco, Rega, Mayware, Black-Widow, etc) since something like one of the lesser-known Technics DD TTs (SL1700, 1600, 1800, etc - which are all as good as a standard 1200, more or less) could be bought for peanuts.

Nevertheless, I can't stress enough that a good arm is extremely important in that scenario, regardless of which TT.

Perhaps it's a matter of personal taste, but I've also replaced my original SME3009II with the SAU2 arm from my BD2 as the preferred arm on my 125 Thorens. I did like the sweet tubelike mids and highs of the 3009II, but was also turned off by the soft midbass of my example. YMMV. I found the bass/midbass of the SAU2 as tight and as extended as that of the Ittok (with MMs) with only a very slight compromise in the extreme highs, relatively speaking - so that's my choice for that 125 'til my killer DIY arm is built.

We all learn from others' experiences. So I'm hoping something I've said here turns out to be helpful to someone out there.

Cheers,
Winston.

[walpurgis]

Unfortunately, the SAU2 arm is terminally flawed. You'll get sound from it no doubt and you may like it, but it ain't right.

If you watch the SAU2 end on, as the cartridge traverses the record, the headshell tilts from one side to other due to the action of the diagonal gimbal bearings. This means that azimuth is actually only correct at one point across the record grooves. This is wrong and may even damage records.

I've had maybe half a dozen of these arms and have hastily moved them on.

[curry49]

You’re right, of course – and many have criticized it for the same thing. And you don’t even have to place the arm on a record to see it. My own SAU2, even on its armrest, resembles someone leaning his head to one side. It looks so ridiculous, it borders on the hilarious.

But, still, I’ve never heard its performance compromised in any way that could be ascribed to this ‘flaw.’ Apparently, its idiosyncrasies are within acceptable bounds, like so many of the gear we use.

Let’s not forget that hifi is full of similar compromises. For instance, the fan of linear-tracking arms could (and do) make similar arguments against the pivoted arms most of us use (even though we find the known compromises of the latter acceptable – similar to how I’ve accepted the inaudible quirk of the SAU2).

What’s most fascinating to me, tho, is that an arm averaging much less than 100 bucks, if sold by itself, could be so competitive with one broaching the kilo-buck mark on the used market, even if this parity is ONLY with moving-magnets. (The Ittok would murder the SAU2 with MCs, of course, and that’s perhaps where the bulk of its value lies – for MC users).

By the way, I’m not alone in liking and using the SAU2 (pending the readiness of my DIY alternatives, in my case) as I’ve seen at least two others expressing similar sentiments. (I could quote or link them later, if I ever find them again).

Still, my aim in highlighting the likes of the SAU2 and the likes of the lesser-known (and relatively inexpensive) Techies is merely to highlight options which perform at or near the level of the much more expensive alternatives, in my experience. Hope I didn’t break any rules in doing so.

Cheers.

[petrat]

Thanks for the encouragement.

PS - Out of interest Geoff what modern deck could you recommend for a budget up to £1500? Maybe slightly more?
PPS - Geoff, it seems you are right about polarised views on this deck - across the web simply a Marmite appeal.

Hi Richie.

Just in case you're looking for an alternative, this .... http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?54224-Sony-PS-6750-TT-(Original-Box!) ... will comprehensively out-perform the connoisseur. I've owned both, I know! This is a bargain, and with a good moving magnet cartridge (Audio Note IQ1) would be less than £700, and be unbeatable at less than three times the cost. Trust me ... been there :rolleyes:

[walpurgis]

The Ittok would murder the SAU2 with MCs

:) Ha. I don't like the Ittok either. I found the armlift platform flexed too much on mine and the sound quality with Decca cartridges (which I used exclusively back then) was poor. It gave an unpleasant coarseness to the upper treble. I kept it a couple of years, but eventually gave up on it and sold it on.

[montesquieu]

:) Ha. I don't like the Ittok either. I found the armlift platform flexed too much on mine and the sound quality with Decca cartridges (which I used exclusively back then) was poor. It gave an unpleasant coarseness to the upper treble. I kept it a couple of years, but eventually gave up on it and sold it on.

I would have thought the very last cartridge to use with an Ittok would be the Decca (unless perhaps something like a Shure M3D or other throwback that also needs an entirely different approach). I had one for 20 years on my LP12, and ran it very successfully with an AT OC9, with which it's a nice match.

[walpurgis]

I would have thought the very last cartridge to use with an Ittok would be the Decca.

You live and learn, as they say. It was a long time ago.

[curry49]

:)"Ha. I don't like the Ittok either."

Au contraire!

I actually loved my Ittok. Geoff, I don’t doubt it if you say it was awful with a Decca. But I used mine over many years with Grado’s Sonata – and later with a Signet TK7E - and found both combinations outstanding in different regards. Difficult to put into words, really. However (and I know I’ll be shot for saying this) tho the Ittok was outstanding at bass/midbass, I found that my lowly SAU2 was even slightly better here, IMO (with MMs ONLY) and only very slightly less extended in the highs, with the likes of my Signet. This revelation came after the SAU2 had already ousted another iconic arm of mine, IMO. And this all made it difficult to continue holding on to these two iconic arms, especially since the TT the Ittok came with was slated to be sold after being equaled or outperformed by two or three other TTs of mine – all tested with the same Ittok/Signet combo. Nevertheless, I still believe the Ittok is one of the greats, just behind those at the very top today, especially for those who prefer moving-coils. Perhaps a bit over-priced, though.

Regarding the humble Connoisseur BD1/BD2 TT, however, I doubt mine was properly set up when I’d actually used it more than 30 years ago (at a time I wasn't adept at TT set-up) so I don't have great personal impressions of it. Still, I’m now convinced that the SAU2 arm played a very big part in why the BD2, especially, was so respected by audiophiles in general. Nevertheless, with my experience with the BD2 not being the most memorable, I never ever would have even tried the SAU2 on any frontline TT until I saw comments like this one comparing the SAU2 with an SME 3009II similar to what was frustrating me on my Thorens TT at the time;
“The SU (SAU2, really) is very good, in fact better IMHO than the SME at LF response with the Shure cart I had fitted but not as sweet in the mid band. Don't get me wrong, its very close, its just that I prefer the overall balance of the sme and it is a personal thing. Someone else might prefer it!”
https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?t=23333

Yes, it’s true that I much preferred the SAU2’s tight and deep bass over the bass of the SME 3009II, which is oft criticized as ‘soft’ and ‘wooly,’ and unrealistic. However, it’s possible that this would not have been so if I’d seen the likes of one of the tips I’m about to reveal. I’m not sure if this tactic would have improved the bass to the level of an Ittok or SAU2, but for those who love the 3009II’s outstanding and sublime midrange, while abhorring the softish midbass especially, the following quote might help in that regard. I’ve also seen at least two others advocating similar tactics and reporting similarly satisfying results;
“…Instead I removed the grommets on the 3009 bedplate and reinstalled the arm on my TD-124. I noticed that the bass now seemed tighter, more dynamic, and some mid bass bloat had disappeared. Imaging and the quality of the extreme highs improved significantly. Overall it's a less euphonic and more detailed presentation - a significant improvement for a few minutes work.”
https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?t=33686

So, apparently, the grommets at the 3009II’s base are what cause its softish midbass.

And the application of the fore-mentioned tactic could possibly transform this arm into an even more outstanding performer. A 3009II installed without grommets on a BD1 could be quite a nice prospect, even in a modest system.

I also see great advice being distributed here, including a Sony TT which Classic HiFi remarked about, here; “The PS-6750 was one of the best turntables Sony ever made and was manufactured during the golden age of high fidelity audio in the mid to late 1970's.”
http://classichifi.info/Sony_PS-6750.shtml

Later in the same article they imply that this TT was very much in the category of Linn, Thorens, and Ariston TTs at the time. Jean Nantais (father of the modded Lenco) is also a Sony TT fan, btw.

Outstanding.

Can’t see anyone going wrong with the advice being distributed here.

Getting a bit carried-away in my enthusiasm, however. Apologies for the longish post.

Cheers. :)

[Baldrick]

Hi

How nice to find such useful and timely information on Connoisseur decks in this thread.

I have just resurrected my 70s Connoisseur (BD2) turntable after 20 years in the loft. It is in its original state and still has the motor suspended by rubber bands. Having replaced them a number of times before, I fitted new ones and successfully got it working again.

Reassuringly, it plays 45s at the correct speed but struggles with 33s as the belt is slipping.

Does anyone know what was in the phial (see image) which originally came with the deck from A R Sugden? I guess I must have used mine years ago to revitalise the belt and I wish to do it again before I purchase a new one. The belt itself still feels and appears to be okay.

Cheers

Rick

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1WFV0V3LW6c/W14pv697GOI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/yjH44hbI_m8YyYKgfjptz6fMM8WWuMEEQCLcBGAs/s1600/blog1-top-photo.jpg

[walpurgis]

Does anyone know what was in the phial (see image) which originally came with the deck from A R Sugden?]

Belt dressing grease. I've still got some and a pile of spares, some new, including an original belt and main bearing.

[Baldrick]

Belt dressing grease...

Many thanks. I've discovered there's an unrelated product called 'BD1 Belt Dressing Spray'. :)

[walpurgis]

The modern neoprene replacement belts are not great. They tend to be too tight and pull the motor forward too much. Far better to keep an eye out for an original rubber one.

The best motor pulley is the early one with two distinct belt positions, it requires changing speed by hand, but runs much quieter.

[Baldrick]

keep an eye out for an original rubber one.
I've looked at the options but is it still possible to find an original one?

The best motor pulley is the early one with two distinct belt positions, it requires changing speed by hand
That sounds like the one I've got..
https://img.canuckaudiomart.com/uploads/large/1021833-60db005d-connoisseur-bd2-turntable-by-ar-sugden.jpg

[walpurgis]

I've unearthed my kitty of Connoisseur BD1/BD2 spares and am willing to part with them if you are interested.

[Baldrick]

I've unearthed my kitty of Connoisseur BD1/BD2 spares...
That's very good of you. I assume you no longer have a Connoisseur deck. I'll private message you.

With regards to Belt Dressing, talking to an engineering friend and seeing how wide the choice is, it sounds like the sprays available are aimed at heavy duty belts belts. I wonder what could be recommended for the more delicate belts on turntables?

Thanks.

[walpurgis]

The belts require no dressing on them, despite it being sold for them. It just attracts dust and fluff and an unstretched belt won't slip. Wash the belt under the tap with a bit of washing up liquid every few months and wipe with silicone oil.

[Baldrick]

Wash the belt under the tap with a bit of washing up liquid every few months and wipe with silicone oil.

Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try.

[system7]

Good thread this. I used to build Connoisseur turntables. I used the cut down one with various tonearms and cartridges.

All you had to do was cut out a bit of chipboard with a jigsaw and set it all up on 4 rubbery feet. We even did this with twin turntables for Disco. The Connoisseur was good for disco because it started up fast due to that rubbery spring on the on/off switch. So you could cue up the next record for a flick of the switch.

I have a solid tip for any vinyl turntable user. Either mount the turntable on a solid shelf attached to the wall, Or put it and the amp in the next room. Isolates it from bass feedback from the speakers. Because a turntable in the groove is a microphone. Even picks up your dancing footsteps. :lol:

[majex45]

This was my first "real" turntable. Bought mail order as a kit in about 1975 ish.
I used it with the NEAT G30B tonearm (Laskys, I think) with a Goldring cartridge (G800?) but then splurged out on a SME 3009 SII (Exchange & Mart) (detachable headshell, large counterweight) and a Shure M75ED Type II (I think, Laskys). It was built into a plinth made from an old school desk (really thick wood, possibly deal with steel edges which were the old hinges).
The lid came from the record player at school. Someone dropped something on it an it cracked so the technician gave me the old one to repair (with a small bottle of chloroform to glue it back together).

[hole46]

I bought mine in 1978. Used it with Grace 707 arm and an Ortofon ( I think ) high output cartridge until the cartridge died. Still have it stored at home, needs new motor suspension & a belt.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[majex45]

I bought mine in 1978. Used it with Grace 707 arm and an Ortofon ( I think ) high output cartridge until the cartridge died. Still have it stored at home, needs new motor suspension & a belt.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes, I also had to replace the suspension from time to time. I think I used normal elastic bands.
I never replaced the drive belt and when I bought a CD player I realised that all my LPs were playing slow.:doh: