View Full Version : Mod your Beresford TC-7510
I'm planning on getting one of these hopefully in the next week or two and I'm just wondering if I could power it off my computer. Since it's gonna be used exclusively with the computer I was thinking I might as well run a twelve volt line out the back and into the DAC. What kind of effect would this have on the sound? Same as the stock psu or better like the Maplin?
Josh
freddiecas
18-11-2009, 10:41
I would guess worse since pc supplies are notorious for being full of interference from the various switching currents.
ZebuTheOxen
18-11-2009, 14:45
You'd have to go with something like a Corsair PSU. They use large Rubycon capacitors for the power stage, very low ripple.
If I read what you said correctly, you want to power the DAC from the PSU already running in the computer? I can't vouch for this but the amount of noise generated by a computer PSU is not conducive to a good quality listening experience.
If you used a PC PSU solely you would be burning 40w+ just to power a 12w(?) device, and even then it would offer no real benefit over the stock 7520 power supply.
Not to mention wasting a perfectly good PSU.
Better off buying a gang lead and plugging the stock 7520 PSU in seperately.
I have quite a high end seasonic psu and was hoping to run both computer and DAC off it at once but if there's still going to be a lot of interference on the line I'll get the maplin psu
ZebuTheOxen
18-11-2009, 19:17
Sorry I didn't realise this was the 7510 thread, I should pay more attention when posting. :doh:
Does anyone know if the Maplin power supply pointed out by Stanley can be fixed with a different mains lead? I was almost sure it could but still took the opportunity to ask the Maplin fellow.. they denied its possible :scratch:
I found this pic on eBay, someone is selling his Maplin PSU.. afaik this is the exact same one that can be used with the 7510?
http://i.ebayimg.com/11/%21Bf53TYwBGk%7E$%28KGrHqYH-CQEsMKuO7JLBLDF3DEV1g%7E%7E_12.JPG
It looks like he removed his mains lead... so would it be possible to replace this with an expensive power lead, such as Russ Andrews sells on their site? Or would that be total overkill in combination with the cheap PSU ??
Stratmangler
25-11-2009, 19:24
Does anyone know if the Maplin power supply pointed out by Stanley can be fixed with a different mains lead? I was almost sure it could but still took the opportunity to ask the Maplin fellow.. they denied its possible :scratch:
I found this pic on eBay, someone is selling his Maplin PSU.. afaik this is the exact same one that can be used with the 7510?
http://i.ebayimg.com/11/%21Bf53TYwBGk%7E$%28KGrHqYH-CQEsMKuO7JLBLDF3DEV1g%7E%7E_12.JPG
It looks like he removed his mains lead... so would it be possible to replace this with an expensive power lead, such as Russ Andrews sells on their site? Or would that be total overkill in combination with the cheap PSU ??
The mains lead is a bog standard IEC kettle lead. So yes you could replace it with an expensive power lead from Rus Andrews, although why you would is beyond me. I reckon you'd be better off with one of these (http://markgrantcables.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=45_18&products_id=69) from Mark Grant cables.
Actually I really reckon that you'd be better off just getting a new psu from Maplin (http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=48517) because that way you'd have the mains lead and the adapters to fit the DAC.
Chris:)
That's a great result, well done. With the caps in place I predict it will sound even better! ;)
I made another change last week, snowed in for the third time in a week I had time on my hands to finally implement a pulse transformer on the SPIDF output of my squeezebox:
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l82/_NRG_/other/Image1-1.jpg
Shameless borrowing of the idea! ;)
Before, the SB SPDIF output as seen on the 'scope was a bit of a mess, with the cct in place the much cleaner scope trace confirmed what my ears where telling me...wow!
I am intrigued by this idea.
Any chance you can remember what chip it was that you attached the jumper cable to?, did the pulse trafo fit inside the SB casing or is it outboard?
I must admit I have never opened up my squeezebox, if anyone has a picture of the internals to highlight where this chip is I would be very happy to see it.
I suspect there is no room in the case so I guess it would be a small hole in the back of the device, piece of vero board with the components and a BNC socket on and then velcro it on the back or something?
//Jan
The chip in the SB3 is just an Hex inverter , both the S/pdif and XO pass through that chip, ideally you want the pulse transformer as close as possible
The chip in the SB3 is just an Hex inverter , both the S/pdif and XO pass through that chip, ideally you want the pulse transformer as close as possible
Ok, one of these days I should get around to opening it up, got a lot of things on at the moment though.
Also I am not sure I won't just flog it and get either a touch or a hiface, I have a whole lot of 24/96 material.
On the subject of the 7510, I recently got one of these from chrism, so far I have changed the opamp, performed the mod21 as set out by Mr. Beresford.
Right now I am using Panasonic FC caps in the input and output, I may change these to non polar Nichicon MUSE, also I have not found my bag of poly caps yet so have not changed C5/6 yet, I clipped a leg off CC1 and 2, clipped the L+R wires between the two boards and have replaced the LM7810 with an LM317. Check it out; Pardon the shook up picture, lamp in one hand, iPhone in the other.
http://www.snip.dk/dump/IMG_0483.JPG
I whipped it up with whatever was laying about, some tantalum's the connecting legs down to the board are their leads bent through the vero board, then the two regulating resistors and a 100pF disc fits pretty neat, gives out 9.68V and has lovered the noise on the 10V rail by 30 odd percent if memory serves.
I found that clipping the signal wires to the headphone/variable part really tightened up the sound of the fixed output.
In fact, I quite fancy sawing off the part of the board that deals with the headphone amp, if Stanley would be kind enough to give an authorized answer as to where it would be safe to place the cut, as it cannot be reversed. I could then use that space to fiddle about with a discreet output.
From what I can see right about where the G wire comes in from the ribbon cable looks safe enough provided I then ground to chassis at another point.
Has anyone had the DAC chip changed for the Wolfson and can comment on how that sounds? Personally the idea of oversampling does not sound that appealing to me, If I were to go for such an idea I'd properly get another 7510 and try it on. In a few days I am going to do a comparison of this modified one to a stock one at a friends house, I will naturally before then implement a 317 based 5V regulator as well and run it off a linear supply.
//Jan
On the subject of the 7510, I recently got one of these from chrism, so far I have changed the opamp, performed the mod21 as set out by Mr. Beresford.
//Jan
Hi Jan,
Wasn't me guv, mine is in bits in the draw with the other wrecked stuff! :(
Regards
Hi Jan,
Wasn't me guv, mine is in bits in the draw with the other wrecked stuff! :(
Regards
Hehe ok, another Chris M then :), same screen name on another forum..
//J
makruiten
29-04-2011, 16:03
I've been reading a lot on this forum since I got myself a second hand 7510 last week. Now I'm about to mod my 7510 with mod 21 pt 1&2. I'm no technician and can't understand the circuit by just looking at it. Can somebody tell what exactly is the function of R11 and R14? What is the bridge between them supposed to do? In this (http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2217) thread the OP isn't very positive about it. Given that he has listened to his mods very carefully, I tend to believe him. But of course it's also a matter of taste. Can some one shed his light on this?
There are three other questions that came to my mind while inspecting the inner workings of my 7510 MKII.
1. Why are we supposed to replace EC8/9 220uF caps (that's what they are now in my unit) with 47uF caps? Again, I'm not a technician, just wondering why. EDIT: I suspect it has to do with the 220uF WIMA caps that are added earlier in the signal. Am I right?
2. Why shouldn't I bother with replacing EC6/7?
3. Why should cutting the CC1/2 bypass caps make a positive difference? They are there to diminish current ripple, right?
Thanks!
Hi Martijn,
Welcome to AoS :)
On your next visit, could you please pop into the Welcome area and say 'hello', telling us about your system and what music you like, as this is the required procedure for all new members joining our community.
Cheers! :cool:
Marco.
makruiten
29-04-2011, 21:02
Hi Martijn,
Welcome to AoS :)
On your next visit, could you please pop into the Welcome area and say 'hello', telling us about your system and what music you like, as this is the required procedure for all new members joining our community.
Cheers! :cool:
Marco.
Will do, didn't know that!
Nice one. Thanks for doing that, Martijn :)
During the registration process, did you not get this message?
Dear $username,
Thank you for registering at XXX...
Before we can activate your account you need to visit the following URL:
XXXX...
New registrations are manually authorised, and so it can take a few hours before your posting rights will be fully active.
Before posting in the main areas of the forum, please pop into the Welcome area and say 'hello', giving your proper first name, basic location, system details and something about your music tastes.
;)
Marco.
makruiten
29-04-2011, 22:09
I did, but I didn't read the whole message. My fault. I'm used to just clicking on the activation link.
Lol... You see, my boy, the fine details in life matter... Always read the small print! :eyebrows:
;)
Marco.
makruiten
01-05-2011, 09:36
Does anyone know the answer to any of the questions I've asked?
makruiten
06-05-2011, 22:15
Just finished mod 21. I'm very impressed. It definitely sounds better then my Cambridge Audio 640C trough my HD600 cans. Cleaner in the mids and less bright in the highs. I used Elna Silmic II 47uF/25V's to replace the four caps. I'm planning on upgrading the PSU and then I'll leave it alone (I hope).
makruiten
06-05-2011, 22:22
Which other caps are in the audio signal path besides the four I just replaced? (Ok, I admit, I'm already thinking of modding it further).
pcourtney
11-10-2016, 18:45
my original PSU on the 7510 DAC has stopped working, but reading through 28 pages about this venerable DAC I see that many users have seen an improvement using a Linear 12v supply, would I be right in assuming the current needed (or preferred ) is about 1a ??
is Maplin still the only source for quality 12v Linear in the UK ?
StanleyB
11-10-2016, 19:39
You need at least 500mA.
You can use the Maplin CB radio one, but the Chinese 12 V ones with a display are only a bit more expensive than the simple Maplin unit.
pcourtney
11-10-2016, 19:55
evening Stan, may I say that is pretty amazing customer service, thank you - will get one tomorrow
by the way, my AKG K-340 headphones from the early eighties sound magnificent using the 7510 :-)
http://www.headfonia.com/akg-k340-bass-heavy-version/
playing mainly wav files on four ipods that I have collected over the years !
electronlibre
18-02-2019, 14:13
Hello!!
I recently decided to buy the Caiman Seg, but meanwhile I saw a TC-7510 selling for such a nice price that it was impossible not to buy it.
I did it just for fun, after all it is a very old dac. I like to tweak and I want a decent converter to my TV box. I said to myself.
The surprise was when I made a few mods and hear it with a modest old Arcam player and my best Gaincard clone.
I have other very DIY sophisticated dacs, like the Soekris, powered with supercaps, and folowed by the K buffer, so I have a good idea about what a good dac is.
I will post some pictures here, and hopefully, someone will answer to my outdated questions.
electronlibre
22-02-2019, 16:35
I almost finished my mods:
- External 12V Battery with Nover 3300uF capacitor in parallel, and one styroflex cap (in parallel) This gives power reserve among other things. The result is quick attack and smooth treble. Fast fast fast. Later I'll try supercaps instead. It should be even better.
- All caps are Audio Note Kaisei, some are standard, because kaisei had not the necessary values or they are to big. 4700uF is to big, so I use standard, coupled with smaller Kaiseis... One or two litle caps are not replaced, but they will. Some caps don't need to be replaced, but I did, because I am a maniac.
- Those four 47uF lytics in the output were replaced by two 220pF styroflex and two Silver Mica 220pF Charcoft. There is no better for me (until now), in my experience, and for my taste. The remaining styros will be replaced. They are very good, transparent, but the charcoft are better, no harsh at all.
- Mod 21 and Mod 21pt2 are done! Uf!!! I didn't damage the circuit...
The 5volt regulator is a Belleson. This is not necessary, because now the external PSU is batteries. Unnecessary, crippling. I will put back the 7805 reg and keep the Bell for eventual future mods.
One of these days I will take care of the phone output, but it does not matter for me in this moment.
COMMENTS :
I am amazed by the sound of this litle thing. Musical, big, smooth, fast, tonally balanced, spacial. Voices and instruments have a good level of presence and body. Treble is of high quality and bass is deep and "dry". I am surprised with the quality of the analogue output, but I added a second output based on the "K Buffer. It added more "meat" and a litle bit of everything to the sound.
The noise is very low, I can now turn the volume much more to the right. Now I can hear much more louder, without distortion. Better dac, "better amp".
The background is black as a black hole.
As soon as I can, I will post photos of the mods and the the "K Buffer".
I can't wait to hear the Caiman Seg. If it is so much better, I really want to have one!
Stanley, thank you for making such a good dac to allowd me have so much fun, and thank you for answering to a few questions of mine, as well as having all the information in your website, namely, the Mods 21.
electronlibre
03-03-2019, 10:44
Hello!
I am finally posting some photos from my mods. Nothing original, I just want to share it. I choosed premium parts, as stated in the second post.
I had to remove the caps of the phones output, because I decided to solder two dip/8soics adapters. I have a few op amps from past mods in my draws. Two of them are Sparkos, but I have others, not so expensive, and may be they work as well as sparkos or better. I'll see it later. I wonder if Linear Tec are compatible. These are maybe the best op amps in the market, for me. I'll try them.
I orderd two 1100pf silver mica Charcrofts to solder in parallel with the original caps of the phono amp. These caps will be underneath the board, they are very small, soldered to the silver mica legs. I have to order two extra caps, those with 10uF, in the output, to solder underneath the board too, so I'll have space for the op amps. Some are big. I will also change the 220uF lytic caps of the amp, putting them in a better position. I'll order some new ones, (I need bigger bigger legs), so I can solder them in a way that they will be far from the op amps. Just simple mechanicals.
You can see a photo of a 220pf styroflex, the same that I'm using in the output stage. They give lots of detail, but they will be replaced by two more silver micas, because I feel that styros can give some subtle harsh sound. I am getting a sound that is very very detailed, but not cold at all. Every litle detail of the system must be taken with lots of care. This dac is followed by two gainclones with nacked foils resistors in the signal. The psu caps of this amps make a big difference in the sound. Mundorfs are so far the best, or Silmics. I am using Mundorfs. Silmics need a good burn in. They are not harsh at all, as many people say, they just need burn in. Even so, I will also try some Kaisei here, (two 4700uF/25V). I want to know, once for all, if the kaisei are really better than mundorfs or silmics.
Now I can hear Chet Baker trumpet very loud, but sweet, that's a very direct sound, but smooth. You can also see a photo of a silver mica cap.
In the psu I have one AN standard 4700uF cap. It will be replaced by a 4700 kaisei. It is big but it will be possible to install it. I will post more photos when all the mods will be finished. These mods have been very rewarding. I am crazy spending all this money, I am not rich, but...it gives me a lot of pleasure! This project costs more than a Caiman Seg, (that will be ordered soon), it is not reasonable, but who cares???
I tryed several caps after the 12V battery. One Gold Tune 2200uF works very well, two 1000uF silmics even better.
Of course, it will be replaced by the Dorado. It will be interesting to hear the difference between the Dorado and the battery with caps.
https://www.casimages.com/i/19030312075918964516143695.jpg.html
https://www.casimages.com/i/19030312080218964516143696.jpg.html
https://www.casimages.com/i/19030312090518964516143698.jpg.html
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https://www.casimages.com/i/19030312113118964516143702.jpg.html
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https://www.casimages.com/i/19030312120918964516143705.jpg.html
https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2019/03/03//19030312075918964516143695.jpg (https://www.casimages.com/i/19030312075918964516143695.jpg.html)
https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2019/03/03//19030312080218964516143696.jpg (https://www.casimages.com/i/19030312080218964516143696.jpg.html)
https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2019/03/03//19030312090518964516143698.jpg (https://www.casimages.com/i/19030312090518964516143698.jpg.html)
https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2019/03/03//19030312090618964516143699.jpg (https://www.casimages.com/i/19030312090618964516143699.jpg.html)
https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2019/03/03//19030312102118964516143700.jpg (https://www.casimages.com/i/19030312102118964516143700.jpg.html)
https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2019/03/03//19030312102218964516143701.jpg (https://www.casimages.com/i/19030312102218964516143701.jpg.html)
https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2019/03/03//19030312113118964516143702.jpg (https://www.casimages.com/i/19030312113118964516143702.jpg.html)
https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2019/03/03//19030312113418964516143703.jpg (https://www.casimages.com/i/19030312113418964516143703.jpg.html)
https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2019/03/03//19030312120918964516143705.jpg (https://www.casimages.com/i/19030312120918964516143705.jpg.html)
electronlibre
03-03-2019, 11:39
Can you please share your opinions? Don't hesitate, if you disagree with these mods, may be I can learn a litle bit more with you.
I know that some caps are not important for the sound, what a waste of money, may be not, I am not sure, that's why I decided to change them all.
May be you have a good suggestion for the op amps and for a nice pair of not very expensive headphones.
What about some RE400 from Hifiman?
Thank you for reading!
electronlibre
03-03-2019, 11:45
I forgot to mention that the 5Volt Belleson regulator will be replaced by a normal 7805 regulator. I once decided to change the regs, but since I replaced the external psu by a battery and the battery will be replaced by the Dorado, I thing that there is no sense in having those fancy regs, they will not minimize noise.
I would like to know if I can use this dac with the the 15volt of the Dorado. Will it sound better than the 12 volt option? Thank you.
I removed the K buffer of the system. It ois not necessary. The Caiman TC-7510 output alone is enough.
Had one of those back in the day; was a good dac. YOUR MODS SHOULD BRING IT UP TO A NEW LEVEL... good job
electronlibre
03-03-2019, 12:45
Hi Grant,
Thank you! It is playing good music, very sweet.
electronlibre
07-03-2019, 15:33
Hello!
A few more mods have been made during the last days, or should I say... I replaced a few more parts!
As it was when I posted the last photos, I had replaced the digital regulator, (5volts out), but not the analogue one, (10volt), I mean the one that goes to the analogue circuits, the output. I said to myself that it was not necessary to have these fancy regs, because the dac is being fed by a 12volt battery, followed by a 4700uF capacitor. I even thought about replacing the 5v Belleson by the standard one, the "original".
Well, today I was surprised by a few experiments I made. I tryed an external linear psu, I regulated it to 12v and also tried it regulated to 15volts. OK, nothing gets hot, it sounds good.
I couldn't hear a difference between the battery and the linear psu. May be there was a litle difference, but so litle that I ignored it.
That been observed, I decided to desolder the 10 volt regulator and solder a New Class D reg, with 12volts, so I used the linear psu setted to 15volts.
Now the 5volt Belleson gets hot, so I screwed a heat sink to it. Nothing else gets hot. Should I replace some resistor(s)? May be, but it seems safe, and it's sounding good.
The sound improved a lot! So much that I am not anymore pointing the loudspeakers. Yesterday I felt that my gainclone was lacking of power. Today I have "power" enough. I knew already that most of the times we accuse the speakers, the fault comes from the source. What audiophiles often look for, or search, in amplifiers, is what they are not getting from the source. That's why, in my opinion, most of audiophiles change so mny times of amplifier. They just don't look for a better source. When the dac or cd player achieves a certain level of quality, the system gives this feeling of power, bigger scale, and the sound comes out of the boxes. In this case, it was achieved by improving the psu of the analogue output. One of the most important sections of any system : a good output powered by a good psu. Even the most old and modest dac will sound good.
I also replaced the styros by two more 220pf Charcroft silver mica. In the psu I have now a 4700uf Kaisei capacitor and soldered the standard 4700uf Audio Note after the linear psu, just before the "jack" of the dac's case. It will be shown in the next photos.
I am curious to "see" if the sound improves by just using the Dorado. If yes, should it improve by desoldering the regulators using two supercapacitors psu? One 5v and one 10v, or 12, directly to the regs holes. Later on. I'll post some pictures this week, after finishing some replacements in the phones section.
If this dac has such an incredible potential, it is thanks to the great electronic design. The sound is very good, even in these modern days...
The sound also improved by soldering to the gainclone psu two Kaisei caps with 4700uf each. These caps have no competition. I use silmics or mundorfs most of times, but they have no chance against the Kaisei.
I still have two silmics in the output stage, those with 47uf. These, and all the caps from the phones output, will be replaced by Non Polar Kaisei caps. More to come, if someone is still interested or reading in this old topic.
electronlibre
07-03-2019, 16:59
I want to state that I am not making commercial publicity and I don't receive money from any brand. I am just sharing my feelings, thoughts and experiences. I am only a hobbyist and passionate for audio.
electronlibre
07-03-2019, 17:04
I may build one big and simple external linear psu with a bank of good caps and a big toroid. I have to take a deep look to my drawers...
electronlibre
11-03-2019, 12:36
Hello again!
This project still is in evolution. The sound is still improving. I had a 4700uF kaisei cap in the psu, but I removed it, because it is not necessary now. I wanted to try feeding the board of the TC-7510 with 5volts and 10 volts directly. The sound was very good, as I said before, but I noticed some harsh sound that was more and more noticeable. I had some saturation in the treble and middle hights. I tryed a lot of things and finally thought that my suspicion about the gainclone psu was right. I was feeding the LM3875 with a dual 18V transformer. That way I could use the 25Volts Kaisei caps. Even with 300VA I was not getting rid of the problem. Then I found a dual 24volt transformer with only 50VA. I connected and the problem was completely gone. I am waiting for a 200VA/2x25v toroid for a Creek 4330. It will be useful for this gainclone before.
Now that I am sure that this psu configuration works with the TC-7510, next move will be a case with two linear psu, one for digital and other to analogue. It will be simplier. Just two capacitor banks, to feed the regulators that were there before : the 5v Belleson and the 12v Dexa. I think that they even are better than the Salas and the other psu I'm using now. It will be important in the analogue section. I think...
I am getting 5Volts/780mA from the Salas psu and 10Volts/4A from the other. Or, I will feed it with two supercapacitor psu. It will be the best of all, but a lot more investment.
I am psting some more photos after this. I would like if someone make some comments, even if it is not positive.
I am feeling alone in this forum, this is being a big monologue. I know, this threat is not exciting, not anymore, but still is for me!
https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2019/03/11//19031101102218964516153811.jpg (https://www.casimages.com/i/19031101102218964516153811.jpg.html)
https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2019/03/11//19031101103518964516153812.jpg (https://www.casimages.com/i/19031101103518964516153812.jpg.html)
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https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2019/03/11//19031101114718964516153815.jpg (https://www.casimages.com/i/19031101114718964516153815.jpg.html)
https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2019/03/11//19031101121718964516153816.jpg (https://www.casimages.com/i/19031101121718964516153816.jpg.html)
electronlibre
11-03-2019, 12:37
Still waiting for the non polar Kaisei caps to populate the headphones amp board.
electronlibre
11-03-2019, 12:38
The amp will be installed in an old Rega Elex.
electronlibre
11-03-2019, 12:40
I will use Cornell Dublier in the power banks, no need to use Kaisei before the voltage regulators, I believe that it would be a waste.
I am using two 4700uf Cornell Dublier in the gainclone psu with very good results. 63v kaisei would cost a fortune and I am getting reasonable.
I will install an Amanero board in the TC case, feeded by a Dexa reg. The Amanero will be in the place of the removed psu cap.
The sound now is very fluid with absolute silence and fluidity. No aggressiveness at all. The control over the speakers is very good.
electronlibre
11-03-2019, 15:01
Now, finally, I have a few questions :
- Is it really worth to have two psu, if I use the special voltage regulators? One digital and one analogue?
- If I simply use one good external psu, using the original jack of the case and one 4700uF on the board, is it worth to change it?
- If I decide to use supercaps, is it worth to make two psu?
-If I use only one supercap psu, like the Dorado, is it worth to change and use two external supercap psu,
feeding the board directly? (5v and 10volts)
What do you think the best situation will be?
Thank you!
electronlibre
11-03-2019, 15:06
My guess is that the best is to use two external psu, feeding the special voltage regulators, or... even better...
use a supercap psu, but should I use one supercap psu with normal regulatots or two directly connected, with no regs, of course.
My guess is that the last proposition is the best, but I am not sure and I have no electronics skills at all.
The forum isn’t very DIY orientated so you’re not going to get many replies! TBH the 7510 is somewhat old now, Stan has moved the game on a lot further since the 7510 was released, I suspect you would be better off applying all your good work to one of Stans newer models where the sonic gains would be greater for the amount of effort you are putting in.....just MHO....
electronlibre
11-03-2019, 18:36
The forum isn’t very DIY orientated so you’re not going to get many replies! TBH the 7510 is somewhat old now, Stan has moved the game on a lot further since the 7510 was released, I suspect you would be better off applying all your good work to one of Satan’s newer models where the sonic gains would be greater for the amount of effort you are putting in.....just MHO....
Yes NRG, you're absolutely right! I am making this because I bought this dac a few weeks ago for 50 euros and I liked it.
I have other dacs, diy ladder dacs, soekris well implemented is very very good. Soon I will buy a Seg Dac, I am curious and I know it is better.
This is fun for me and I am also learning.
That said, I soldered again the fancy regs and fed it with the external psu, the one with the big transformer, so it is feeding both regs.
The sound is not so good. Not at all! Is that because I am feding the10volt rail with a 12V reg? May be, but I don't know, not sure.
I think that feeding the rails directly is the way to go, and no "fancy" regs. At least in this context.
Tonight or tomorrow I will re install the set like it looks in the last photos.
Nevertheless, I will compare that "analogue" psu with the S-Reg from RJM audio. This reg is wonderful.
i am disappointed with the "fancy" regs and surprised with my old salas regulator.
electronlibre
26-03-2019, 13:15
Hello,
I made a mistake, by distraction. I connected the 5Volt psu in the wrong way.
Now I have no sound in the left channel.
The transistors have been replaced, but the problem remains.
So my conclusion is what I was afraid of : I must change the dac chip.
Before to do it I woud like to have an opinion about installing the Wolfson's WM8716.
Is it realy better? If I do it, do I have to make other mods?
It is time to finish this project, but I have no choice, the dac must be replaced, unless someone tells me that the problem is elsewhere. But where? It is not a transistor, and all the remaining parts are caps and resistors. And the CS8414. Please help!!
Thank you!
certainly sounds like the chip. shame but if chips are available then at least all is not lost. not sure if finding a different chip is wise.
electronlibre
26-03-2019, 17:12
Hi Grant,
If nobody tells me in the next few days that I can solder the Wolfson without making extra mods, I will buy one BB1716. They are not so difficult to find.
5 euros plus shipping fees. I can still afford it...!
Regards,
Francisco
pcourtney
05-12-2020, 22:47
Hi Francisco,
did you get your 7510 finished OK - how does it sound now ?
Upgrade to Wolfson WM8716 DAC chip - this is seen as a small improvement - it is also something I want to do with my 7510 :-)
The Beresford DAC upgrade which replaces the Burr Brown PCM1716 DAC chip with the pin-compatible Wolfson WM8716 DAC chip.
The work involved is the same as for the 7520 with the addition of 2 wires from pin-16 of the new DAC chip to decoupling capacitors
Op-amp upgrade - in addition to upgrading to the Wolfson WM8716 DAC chip you may want to upgrade the dual op-amp in the 7510
with an LM4562 dual op-amp. This upgrade should also include the addition of a 0.1uF decoupling capacitor.
all the best
Peter
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