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snuffbox
01-03-2012, 08:39
I've ordered a new set of Linn springs for my Thorens TD125,(following dsjr's advice)now are there any useful tips for setting up the suspension or is it going to be a suck it and see excersise.

DSJR
01-03-2012, 09:20
Yeah, I was going to suggest getting an experienced dealer to do it for you, but since Grahams-is-the-only-one-nearby, where there might be the necessary skill, I thought better of it...

Firstly, is there a problem with the supplied springs? One of mine was a bit "off" and needed loads of patience to get the thing to behave. The Linn springs are rather better made and finished off, so with any luck, you'll be able to fit and forget. PLEASE LEAVE the suspension cups in place, remove the locking nuts/washers preventing the top plate lifting out and work that way. The Linn springs "should" fit in the original grommets properly and I doubt it will be necessary to replace these as well, although that's up to you (the sprung top plate is rather more inert than a typical Linn sub-chassis of old)

The other thing is careful dressing of the arm exit cables and adding a separate earth to the amp is essential in my view :-

European decks, plus BSR and Garrards too, used one of the signal screens to "earth" the turntable. B&O had a separate outer screen on their lead, avoiding hum problems but Thorens and Dual did this to their detriment. My advice is to see where the chassis is connected to the signal screen, cut the link and run some fine stranded wire out to the amp. My 125 had an R200 with Audio Origami exit cable on and since the earthing "tail" was long, I was able to adapt it a la Linn :)

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q8/DSJR_photos/e0697d16.jpg

snuffbox
01-03-2012, 17:39
Thanks for that Dave,the locking nut washer bit by the arm mounting doesnt come out of contact with the chassis when the arm is plonked in its mounting hole(sme 3009)it seems as though it needs a bit more weight there.
I'm going to send the arm to Dom for service and rewire so it'll be away for a while and I'll probably use that time to think about the other things I'll be wanting to do to the deck.

stewartwen
01-03-2012, 23:36
www.theanalogdept.com for all of your Thorens data. This is a great site!
S

snuffbox
02-03-2012, 00:15
Very useful,thankyou

DSJR
02-03-2012, 10:22
The top plate should bounce freely in as piston-like a motion as possible. As supplied, there are the dreaded sponge inserts in the springs, which are routinely removed these days (to be honest, the sponge is so fine, I wonder if removal really makes a sonic difference?). The nylon? cups are adjusted to level the suspension and the correct setting for mine was with the top plate roughly level, or a fraction below, the edge of the plinth, which wasn't quite square on my sample and a mm or two makes all the difference to the eye of a spirit level isn't available :(

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q8/DSJR_photos/TD125withR200withDecca.jpg

P.S. The platter "damping strap" makes absolutely no difference to the sound, since the two platters effectively cancel out any major parasitic resonances, the remaining dealt with by the mat, but it didn't half make the thing look better, especially as once you've made a mirror finish on the outer edge, you have to keep polishing it for ever. I also found it helpful to give the platter a gentle push to help the belt haul it up to speed. the mk2 obviously has the clutch assembly which does the same thing, but the mk1 has a "grippy" motor pulley instead..... At least a tight record centre hole can be dealt with without the platter grinding on the top plate etc as in other suspended decks - and Thorens spindles are on the large side of tolerance generally.

AlfaGTV
02-03-2012, 11:04
On my TD 125 Mk I the spindle tap just barely protrudes up through the center hole of records. It seems like yours are simular? Is this defacto standard on the TD 125?

Br Micke

snuffbox
08-03-2012, 23:08
Just a thought.
How about replacing those pesky springs with sorbathane buffers and then it would be just a case of levelling the plinth,possibly replacing the stupido little rubber feet on the corners with three proper adjustable feet of the pointy variety.
I'd be interested to hear some thoughts on this.
I was going to replace my plinth eventually as I'm not over enamoured with the teak veneered excuse it comes with.

DSJR
09-03-2012, 09:07
The short spindle is normal for all of these and since it's ever so slightly large, most records are automatically "stabilised" when playing. The main bearing is totally silent and this does give a lower noise floor at bass frequencies I found.

Thorens offered their "mushrooms" as an option to replace the springs. What you may gain in one area, you *may* lose in another. Perhaps if the plinth was replaced with something far more substantial, it might work.

YNWaN
09-03-2012, 09:29
Just a thought.
How about replacing those pesky springs with sorbathane buffers...

I know you have a supply of corks - perhaps those could be utilised? Alternatively, many running shoes have Sorbothane insoles (or inserts) - these could be cut out of an old pair and reused in the suspension (once suitably deodorised of course).

Altering the compliance of the suspension from sprung to Sorbothane will have a significant impact on the efficacy of said suspension - but don't let that stop you...

snuffbox
09-03-2012, 10:45
Isn't the point of the suspension to eradicate noise/vibration from the motor and airborne noise vibration.
Won't know if using the half round sorbothane balls would be different or better till I try.

DSJR
09-03-2012, 11:26
The 125 is a different kettle of fish to a 150 or 160, neither of which are substantially built as the 125 is...

master_veteam
12-03-2015, 20:50
Hi Dave,
I'd like to better understand your opinion on Thorens turntables
On the one hand, you say that a TD-160 is inferior to an old Planar 3,
On the other hand you said that a TD-125 is superior to an early LP-12.
I know that at some point some thorens had sloppy bearing and that the stock arm is not as good as a rega arm
So would you say that a TD-160 with nice a bearing in a wooden plinth and good tonearm (RB-303 would probably be on par/better than a modern RP3. And that a TD-125 in a nice wooden plinth/serviced PSU would be on par with a LP-12 with Vahalla, if not better.
I personnally believe that TD-160 bearing is really nice when refurbished, much better than a rega one.
I like the sound of a thorens a lot more than the Rega. And I was surprised to hear that some people considered the rega (especially an early one) better. I have a TD-125 that I love and I'd be thrilled to hear from your experience. I probably took your comments out of context. Anyway, hope you don't mind

struth
12-03-2015, 20:57
I have a fettled 160 and I'd say its the best TT I have had, and have had a few. If you do them up and as said have a nice bearing then its as good as it gets until you go into silly money imo

killie99
12-03-2015, 21:58
I was going to replace my plinth eventually as I'm not over enamoured with the teak veneered excuse it comes with.

Change the plinth ....

http://stuartlittlejohn.f2s.com/TD125_1.jpg

master_veteam
12-03-2015, 23:00
Change the plinth ....

http://stuartlittlejohn.f2s.com/TD125_1.jpg

Nice one! Here's mine!