Help please!!

[monstermoo]

I've just had a disaster with one of my 'briks. :doh:

In an attempt to investigate a possible cause for soft sounding bass I removed the securing bolts from the front bass driver and it seemed to be securely stuck, so I turned to pick up a flat blade screwdriver and in that instant the driver fell forward and has torn the thin negative wire from the back of the driver - the one that presumably goes to the coil.

To say I'm frustrated by this would be an understatement.:steam:

Is this something that can repaired? I have no idea how these thin wires are linked to the driver itself, and it's also torn a small hole in the corrigated paper that covers the magnet, but I presume this is just to keep dust out?

Please help, as I fear my frustrations may get the better of me and this pair of briks are looking at a visit to the tip!!:mental:

[YNWaN]

Hmm, when you write "the corrigated paper that covers the magnet", I think you are referring to the rear support spider that acts to support and centre the cone (it's not a dust cover). If you are referring to the thin wire that goes between the - terminal on the drive unit and the cone, then it does indeed go to the voice-coil. Depending on where it has been broken, it may be possible to solder it back on (it may not though).

[StanleyB]

Please help, as I fear my frustrations may get the better of me and this pair of briks are looking at a visit to the tip!!:mental:
You can get it repaired by one of the companies that do re-coning.

[Welder]

Ooops.

Not quite sure what you've ripped from where but if you do decide to get it repaired and this involves a re-cone and/or a replacement spider, a word a advice; get the pair done.

[monstermoo]

Thanks all. Do you have any recommendations of a company that could do this?
Would it cost less to source a used B139?

[monstermoo]

If you are referring to the thin wire that goes between the - terminal on the drive unit and the cone, then it does indeed go to the voice-coil. Depending on where it has been broken, it may be possible to solder it back on (it may not though).

It looks to have come away at the point where it 'appears' to be glued to the coil :(

[YNWaN]

To be honest, it would probably be as cheap to just buy a replacement - I see a number are for sale on eBay at present.

[DSJR]

So now you all know - the drivers in old Linn speakers ARE ALL BUT GLUED IN PLACE and don't need to be broken into in an attempt at servicing.

Linn used a form of hot-melt underseal kind of stuff, foul smelling but effective and their way of driver removal was to peel the surround off the cone, yank the cone and coil assembly out and literally heave out the chassis - I saw them do it on a few occasions..

'Briks have major problems and "soft bass" is the least of them. Unless you have an unfortunate driver gone open-circuit, it's more like a shrillness further up drawing one's attention away from the bass, or the room doesn't like them. No two pairs ever sounded the same (and in addition to the many dem pairs we had, I owned three pairs, one after the other in the 80's) and of course no two rooms are the same either - a double no-no sadly.........

[monstermoo]

Driver fixed :D

[YNWaN]

So now you all know - the drivers in old Linn speakers ARE ALL BUT GLUED IN PLACE and don't need to be broken into in an attempt at servicing.

Well yes, that was my experience of changing them - however, in this case, the OP writes that the driver just 'fell out' (which did make me wonder)!

To be honest, I don't see how the wire got yanked off the voice-coil unless the terminal strip also got yanked of the basket; any way, it's all apparently fixed now...

[chelsea]

I know quite a lot of people used to hot glue there speakers units in.

[monstermoo]

Well yes, that was my experience of changing them - however, in this case, the OP writes that the driver just 'fell out' (which did make me wonder)!

To be honest, I don't see how the wire got yanked off the voice-coil unless the terminal strip also got yanked of the basket; any way, it's all apparently fixed now...

Yes, this is exactly what happened.
The driver has a rubber gasket to seal it against the cabinet, but I was expecting a type of silicone seal. Initially it did feel 'stuck', but obviously not.
Driver fell forward, tearing the negative from the voice coil, and where it was stapled to the spider it has torn a small hole. The negative was still soldered to the main internal (-) cable in the cabinet, along with the terminal strip. The postive wire snapped off at the terminal strip and was still in place at the voice coil.

A bit of careful soldering and riveteing has sorted the problem, but left me thinking better of trying to remove the rear driver to see if it is sealed properly (the whole reason I took it apart in the first place) :rolleyes:

I think that I'll be using a sealant when the driver goes back in.

The other speaker seems to have the front bass driver sealed in place - I can even see the sealant, so might just leave that one alone :lol: