Bwaze
25-12-2011, 10:12
My first post here, apart from introduction. I'll try to make this brief, but I think my turntable is really messed up. By me. :scratch:
So, I wanted to know what turntable works like. :) I never had one, and I really like the artwork on the album covers, so I thought to buy something cheap and play with it. I really don't have any friends that are into hi-fi, so I'm really struggling a bit with the completely unfamiliar territory.
Technics SL-1200 MkII came highly recommended many times as a starting turntable - easily available used, and easy to set up for a beginner (allegedly). So I ordered one that seller described as "used only at home for music playback".
For 160 EUR (around £130) I got a pretty battle-worn DJ abused turntable without lid, without headshell, with non functioning Ortofon Concorde Pro S cartridge... Also, looks like whole turntable was dropped at least once - platter was wobbling by about 1 mm when spinning and arm was bent a bit in the rear end, and arm bearings were affected too.
:steam: Seller of course didn't answer any of my subsequent mails or phone calls...
So I ordered new spindle, new Technics SL-1200 M5G arm (recommended as it has better wiring than stock) and a lid, Audio Technica 95E cartridge and Sumiko HS12 headshell. Paid more than the used turntable was worth, but I figured I'll have pretty much a new turntable after I change all the parts that can wear off.
Disassembling the Technics, cleaning it and replacing the spindle / bearing was easy, and to my relief platter now turns completely level. But I struggled a lot with the arm...
M5G arm does fit on the MK II, but apparently the two screws that fix it to the base are waaay too long - I managed to damage the "horizontal weight control knob". Removed it, since I don't really need it, I think. I really did a botched job on replacing the RCA wires, I replaced them with the Belkin PureAV coax cables, soldered them directly to the thin tonearm wires.
I set up the cartridge with the Baerwald protractor from VinylEngine, printed it to correct scale and carefully aligned so that the needle follows the arc completely and is square to the grid at two points. Cartridge is quite forward on the Sumiko headshell, and I have additional weight attached to balance the tonearm.
I set up the stylus pressure to a bit less than maximum recommended for AT95E, 2,4g. I set the atiskating less than that, since I think the dial is a bit wrong.
I used the new Hi-Fi News Test LP. I connected the amp rec output to the computer line in so I can record and analyse the results in Audacity (free audio software).
Anyway, the problems:
- arm has no 0 antiskating position - even at 0 there is a little bit of antiskating that move the arm towards armrest when arm is balanced, and is stronger towards the centre of platter. Turntable is level, checked with several levels. I might have moved the antiskating knob accidentaly when reassembling arm base - I disassembled it completely to clean it and relube the VTA mechanism. I don't think the antiskating mechanism is damaged otherwise.
- I can't get the right channel to play properly. It lacks high tones and is quieter than the left by a lot. At first I tried to fix it by changing antiskate and azimuth, but antiskate had very little influence on that, and I ended with A LOT of azimuth to get the even loudness of test tone from Hi-Fi News test LP tracks. I later found out that this strong azimuth only balanced the 300 Hz tone, the rest is still way too low on the right.
Anyone else used computer to analyse the output of their turntable, or are you all setting it up by ear?
That's the screenshot of completely balanced 300 Hz test tone from Hi-Fi News test LP. I got it to within 1 dB difference left to right. Waveform representation with frequency analysis.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k26/Bwaze/Technics%20SL-1210%20MkII/Balancetone300Hz.jpg
But I quickly found out on other tones and music that that didn't work. This is the spectrum representation of sound, and right track is much quieter, especially in the high frequencies.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k26/Bwaze/Technics%20SL-1210%20MkII/OperationMindcrimeimbalance.jpg
So, any ideas what could be wrong here? Bad soldering of tonearm wires to interconnects? Incorrect antiskating setting? :scratch:
So, I wanted to know what turntable works like. :) I never had one, and I really like the artwork on the album covers, so I thought to buy something cheap and play with it. I really don't have any friends that are into hi-fi, so I'm really struggling a bit with the completely unfamiliar territory.
Technics SL-1200 MkII came highly recommended many times as a starting turntable - easily available used, and easy to set up for a beginner (allegedly). So I ordered one that seller described as "used only at home for music playback".
For 160 EUR (around £130) I got a pretty battle-worn DJ abused turntable without lid, without headshell, with non functioning Ortofon Concorde Pro S cartridge... Also, looks like whole turntable was dropped at least once - platter was wobbling by about 1 mm when spinning and arm was bent a bit in the rear end, and arm bearings were affected too.
:steam: Seller of course didn't answer any of my subsequent mails or phone calls...
So I ordered new spindle, new Technics SL-1200 M5G arm (recommended as it has better wiring than stock) and a lid, Audio Technica 95E cartridge and Sumiko HS12 headshell. Paid more than the used turntable was worth, but I figured I'll have pretty much a new turntable after I change all the parts that can wear off.
Disassembling the Technics, cleaning it and replacing the spindle / bearing was easy, and to my relief platter now turns completely level. But I struggled a lot with the arm...
M5G arm does fit on the MK II, but apparently the two screws that fix it to the base are waaay too long - I managed to damage the "horizontal weight control knob". Removed it, since I don't really need it, I think. I really did a botched job on replacing the RCA wires, I replaced them with the Belkin PureAV coax cables, soldered them directly to the thin tonearm wires.
I set up the cartridge with the Baerwald protractor from VinylEngine, printed it to correct scale and carefully aligned so that the needle follows the arc completely and is square to the grid at two points. Cartridge is quite forward on the Sumiko headshell, and I have additional weight attached to balance the tonearm.
I set up the stylus pressure to a bit less than maximum recommended for AT95E, 2,4g. I set the atiskating less than that, since I think the dial is a bit wrong.
I used the new Hi-Fi News Test LP. I connected the amp rec output to the computer line in so I can record and analyse the results in Audacity (free audio software).
Anyway, the problems:
- arm has no 0 antiskating position - even at 0 there is a little bit of antiskating that move the arm towards armrest when arm is balanced, and is stronger towards the centre of platter. Turntable is level, checked with several levels. I might have moved the antiskating knob accidentaly when reassembling arm base - I disassembled it completely to clean it and relube the VTA mechanism. I don't think the antiskating mechanism is damaged otherwise.
- I can't get the right channel to play properly. It lacks high tones and is quieter than the left by a lot. At first I tried to fix it by changing antiskate and azimuth, but antiskate had very little influence on that, and I ended with A LOT of azimuth to get the even loudness of test tone from Hi-Fi News test LP tracks. I later found out that this strong azimuth only balanced the 300 Hz tone, the rest is still way too low on the right.
Anyone else used computer to analyse the output of their turntable, or are you all setting it up by ear?
That's the screenshot of completely balanced 300 Hz test tone from Hi-Fi News test LP. I got it to within 1 dB difference left to right. Waveform representation with frequency analysis.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k26/Bwaze/Technics%20SL-1210%20MkII/Balancetone300Hz.jpg
But I quickly found out on other tones and music that that didn't work. This is the spectrum representation of sound, and right track is much quieter, especially in the high frequencies.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k26/Bwaze/Technics%20SL-1210%20MkII/OperationMindcrimeimbalance.jpg
So, any ideas what could be wrong here? Bad soldering of tonearm wires to interconnects? Incorrect antiskating setting? :scratch: