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Hi,
I wonder if any one can help me? I'm in the process of designing a slate plinth for a 301. To start with this is going to be a very simple plinth with just the cut-out for the deck and a hole for a rega arm mount.
I have a couple questions I have some CAD drawings for the 301 with the arm radius's on, but is there a position along the radius which is preferable to position the arm?
Also as I'm planning on mounting the arm straight onto the plinth its self with out an arm board will I need to fit a spacer under the arm to raise it to the correct height?
If I can work out how to PDF the file and upload it I will.
Thanks
Beechwoods
29-11-2011, 21:52
If you need any help with the latter just PM me Simon.
Before you think about the radius.....2 things:
1) once you've raised the arm you will be close to the limit on the threaded shaft to mount the arm. It could just be ok.
2) when I had my slate armboard wedged very tightly into the plinth it sounded rubbish, it needed to be just ever so slightly free (decoupled).
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e359/cmeakins/1001240012.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e359/cmeakins/0909210010.jpg
BTW, the OL Encounter on my slate plinth has Rega geometry. Let me know if you want me to take some measurements.
Hi clive
That's a nice looking plinth, how did you go about decoupling the arm?
I was thinking about possibly starting with a single layer plinth and depending upon cost adding a decoupled bottom layer like your plinth.
Hi Simon,
The armboard comprises 2 concentric circles of thin slate, the smaller one is about 15mm less in diameter, this drops into a hole in the plinth. The armboard is quite loose so I use pvc tape to make it tight enough not to move when I operate the arm. Too much tape and too tight the dynamics vanish. Maybe you can achieve the same effect by bolting the arm finger tight to the plinth.
The plinth is from the now defunct Slatedeck. I can take armboard pics if that helps.
Hi Simon,
The armboard comprises 2 concentric circles of thin slate, the smaller one is about 15mm less in diameter, this drops into a hole in the plinth. The armboard is quite loose so I use pvc tape to make it tight enough not to move when I operate the arm. Too much tape and too tight the dynamics vanish. Maybe you can achieve the same effect by bolting the arm finger tight to the plinth.
The plinth is from the now defunct Slatedeck. I can take armboard pics if that helps.
Hi Clive,
Pictures of the arm board would be great.
Thanks
Rare Bird
30-11-2011, 14:38
If i were designing another Garrard plinth it would be with an armboard in a simular idea to the old SME sliding bedplate! one that would allow me to fit a sliding collar that would allow a number of different arm fittings, make it a long affair that would also allow either 9/10 or 12'' arms..
I'll do some pics. Re the arm board, the circular nature of the one I have allows for considerable adjustment via rotation (not enough for a 12" though). But of course it just allows for a single size of arm pillar.
Here's my spare armboard
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e359/cmeakins/PB304614.jpg
Here's the one on my dusty deck (photos with flash are so unforgiving!)
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e359/cmeakins/PB304615.jpg
The little scratches are marks I've made on the armboard for alignment purposes, they polish out.
Hi clive,
Thanks for the pictures. That really helps.
Is the arm board secure enough like that?
Hi clive,
Thanks for the pictures. That really helps.
Is the arm board secure enough like that?
Yes it's fine, better with the pvc tape to make the fit tighter but not tight, marking the armboard and plinth means you can check alignment is right at a glance.
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