View Full Version : Mains cable recommendation
Hello,
I would like to ask yout opinion about some reasonably priced mains cable.
I was suggested to upgrade the original mains cable of my Thorens TD-124 to something new and most importantly to a shielded one.
Can you recommend me something on the cheap side?
Thanks and regards,
László
To loosely quote Peter Walker slightly out of context...
The best mains cable to use is one which conducts electricity :D
Too heavy a gauge and it may transmit vibration into the deck/plinth? The motor consumption is very low, so a decent rubber clad? flexible type should be fine I think.
I would like to ask yout opinion about some reasonably priced mains cable.
I was suggested to upgrade the original mains cable of my Thorens TD-124 to something new and most importantly to a shielded one.
Can you recommend me something on the cheap side?
Hi László,
Whatever for? The only reason why it might be suggested you change the mains cable on a Thorens TD124 deck, is that the original cable was a two core, single insulated, 'figure of eight' design. Current EU standards require all mains leads to be double insulated, that is regardless of whether it is two-core or three-core, there is an overall insulating sheath.
Screened cable? Why? Do you run your mains leads alongside the pick up cables? And if you choose to use shielded mains cable, how will you earth the deck? Via the screening? If so, unless you also connect the metalwork of the pickup arm to the same point, there will be two pieces of exposed metal work which will be independently earthed: not an ideal situation and a possible hazard under fault conditions. If you bond the two together, then a earth loop is created with possible hum problems. If you disconnect the arm earth from the preamplifier, then it is not necessarily being earthed at the point of lowest electromagnetic potential as far as RFI is concerned.
I would say leave it alone: "if it aint broke, don't fix it". I have three TD124/II decks and all of them use the original two-core mains flex.
If you must replace the mains cable, use two-core, double-insulated, cable of say 10 amp rating. The motor only draws about 15W. There is no need to worry about RFI entering the motor - it will have absolutely no effect, unlike perhaps a preamplifier.
The suspension of the TD124 is fairly stiff so I wouldn't worry about the replacement mains lead 'short circuiting' the suspension.
Regards
Hello Barry,
Thanks for you reply and help. I don't really trust the insulation of my existing TD-124 mains cable so I need to buy a new one. I just don't understand why it was recommended to install a shielded one.
I think I will buy either a Belden cable or something Hungarian made.
Did you experience any difference between different mains cables on your TD-124?
A bit off topic: I am a bit surprised that an English person owns a TD-124 instead of the Garrard 301 or 401.
Regards,
László
Hello Barry,
Do you think this would be OK?
http://www.kacsa-audio.hu/kepek/webshop/20/images/nagy/1566_KC_220.jpg
Regards,
László
Hello,
I was also looking for this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BELDEN-83803-AUDIOPHILE-MAINS-POWER-CABLE-per-metre-/250621910436?pt=UK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL&hash=item3a5a3adda4
And I was thinking to connect the shielding only on the connector side (and not the turntable end).
Regards,
László
Hi László,
I would recommend you use a length of simple, standard double-insulated two-core mains cable. Whilst I do believe that changing mains cables can make some difference to electronics, such as amplifiers, I do not believe there is in any benefit to be gained in using 'exotic' mains cables to power something as simple as a synchronous motor of a turntable.
Did you experience any difference between different mains cables on your TD-124?
I haven't changed the cables on my TD-124s. They are all in good condition, despite not now conforming to IEC standards. I'm not sure I would notice any difference, were I to change them.
A bit off topic: I am a bit surprised that an English person owns a TD-124 instead of the Garrard 301 or 401.
Ha ha - it's a long story. I did once try and buy a (new) Garrard 401. However the local hi-fi shop seemed unable to get me one. I was equally unsuccessful in trying to obtain a Goldring G99. In the end the shop let me have, "for a song", an old Collaro 2020 idler rim-drive that I modified to allow the use of an SME arm. I used this for a few years until another shop was able to let me have an ex-demonstration Thorens 124/II at a very reasonable price. Since then I have never looked back, and have since then acquired two more 124/IIs - I just love 'em.
I also use an EMT930 turntable with the 929 arm as I'm a big fan of EMT cartridges. Incidently, my EMT 930 was bought from Hungary.
Regards
worthingpagan
23-10-2011, 13:27
I highly recommend the Supra 2.5, it's very well shielded and is also very flexible. It's also reasonably inexpensive, Divine Audio sell it for around Ł12.50 a metre
Hello Barry,
Do you think this would be OK?
http://www.kacsa-audio.hu/kepek/webshop/20/images/nagy/1566_KC_220.jpg
Regards,
László
It looks OK László. Just make sure the two conductors can withstand a voltage of 400V between them.
Regards
Hello,
I was also looking for this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BELDEN-83803-AUDIOPHILE-MAINS-POWER-CABLE-per-metre-/250621910436?pt=UK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL&hash=item3a5a3adda4
And I was thinking to connect the shielding only on the connector side (and not the turntable end).
Regards,
László
Not too sure about this one László. Do you really want to spend that much?
It looks fairly stiff. How do you intend earthing the metalwork of the turntable and that of the arm? For reasons I have explained, the third conductor of this cable need not be used.
You are correct in assuming the shielding (braiding) ought to be connected to the earth pin of the mains plug, but take great care to ensure the braiding does not touch the other conductors within the mains plug. Suggest you use some heat-shrink sleeving over the braiding.
Regards
Dingdong
23-10-2011, 14:01
That red jacket is a pain to work with. It's very stiff. The other Belden stuff is very good. There are a couple of vendors on the forum for mains cables and the like.
What do you recommend for earthing the metalwork of the turntable and the arm? I use an EMT-929 tonearm with a Denon DL-103R and I am in the process of making an interconnect between the tonearm and my my MC SUT and Kondo M7 clone preamp.
Your recommendation would be very valuable for me.
Thanks and regards,
László
Not too sure about this one László. Do you really want to spend that much?
It looks fairly stiff. How do you intend earthing the metalwork of the turntable and that of the arm? For reasons I have explained, the third conductor of this cable need not be used.
You are correct in assuming the shielding (braiding) ought to be connected to the earth pin of the mains plug, but take great care to ensure the braiding does not touch the other conductors within the mains plug. Suggest you use some heat-shrink sleeving over the braiding.
Regards
What do you recommend for earthing the metalwork of the turntable and the arm? I use an EMT-929 tonearm with a Denon DL-103R and I am in the process of making an interconnect between the tonearm and my my MC SUT and Kondo M7 clone preamp.
Your recommendation would be very valuable for me.
Thanks and regards,
László
Hi László,
Will you be using the EMT 929 arm with your Thorens TD124? If you are, I would recommend the metalwork of the EMT arm, which is connected to pin 4 of the 7-pin connector at the base of the arm, is connected to the chassis of the Thorens deck and thence to the earth terminal of your preamp/SUT.
Did you fit the Denon 103 into the EMT TS-G headshell? There is very little room: the bayonet connector contacts almost interfere with the output pins of the cartridge.
Regards
I could not install the Denon into it so I asked a professional to do it for me.
He had to cut the connector pins on the DL-103R and the remaining connections were directly soldered to the headshell connectors with a tonearm wire.
Yes, I have a custom made tonearm board which is the same size of the original (which was installed with an SME 3009 tonearm). It had to be put in the corner but it is OK.
If I understood well you recommend to connect the earth pin of the 7pin connector to the chassis of TD-124 and to connect the chassis to the SUT?
This means the RCA-7pin cable should not touch pin 4 and I could use a simple 7pin-RCA cable?
Thanks and regards,
László
Hi László,
Will you be using the EMT 929 arm with your Thorens TD124? If you are, I would recommend the metalwork of the EMT arm, which is connected to pin 4 of the 7-pin connector at the base of the arm, is connected to the chassis of the Thorens deck and thence to the earth terminal of your preamp/SUT.
Did you fit the Denon 103 into the EMT TS-G headshell? There is very little room: the bayonet connector contacts almost interfere with the output pins of the cartridge.
Regards
Now it's my turn to be a little confused. It sounds as if the metalwork of the arm and of the armtube in particular is already connected to the shielding of the RCA terminated coaxial cables.
It would be better if the 7-pin plug was wired as follows:
pin 1, shield of the left-hand channel coaxial cable
pin 2, centre conductor of left-hand channel coaxial cable
pin 3, not used
pin 4, separate wire to connect to the metalwork of the turntable and to the earth terminal on the preamp/SUT
pin 5, not used
pin 6, centre conductor of the right-hand channel coaxial cable
pin 7, shield of the right-hand channel coaxial cable
Hello Barry,
Now it is totally clear. I have to connect the metal chassis of the TD-124 to pin4 and then to connect this point to the SUT.
Should I "forward" this connection from the SUT to the preamp?
Thanks and regards,
László
Now it's my turn to be a little confused. It sounds as if the metalwork of the arm and of the armtube in particular is already connected to the shielding of the RCA terminated coaxial cables.
It would be better if the 7-pin plug was wired as follows:
pin 1, shield of the left-hand channel coaxial cable
pin 2, centre conductor of left-hand channel coaxial cable
pin 3, not used
pin 4, separate wire to connect to the metalwork of the turntable and to the earth terminal on the preamp/SUT
pin 5, not used
pin 6, centre conductor of the right-hand channel coaxial cable
pin 7, shield of the right-hand channel coaxial cable
I could not install the Denon into it so I asked a professional to do it for me.
He had to cut the connector pins on the DL-103R and the remaining connections were directly soldered to the headshell connectors with a tonearm wire.
Yes, installing the Denon 103 into the EMT-G is a bit like trying to fit “a quart into pint pot”, as can be seen from the photos of my sample.
http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy88/barrydhunt/009-3.jpg
http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy88/barrydhunt/008-4.jpg
Hello Barry,
Now it is totally clear. I have to connect the metal chassis of the TD-124 to pin4 and then to connect this point to the SUT.
Should I "forward" this connection from the SUT to the preamp?
Thanks and regards,
László
It depends on how the output connectors of the SUT are wired, but I would have thought that the earth connection on the SUT ought be forwarded on to the preamp. Unless you are certain the metal work of the SUT and the earth terminal are connected to the outer part of the output RCA connectors, then both the SUT and the turntable arm metal work must be connected to the earth terminal of your preamp for safety's sake.
Regards
Mine looks a bit nicer :-) but I have to add that it was not done by me. I thought of doing it myself but then I was told not to do as I could overheat the connections and the very thin wires inside the cartridge could melt, thus I could ruin the cartridge.
Here are the photos :-)
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/8389/denonemt02.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/263/denonemt02.jpg/)
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/6090/denonemt01.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/87/denonemt01.jpg/)
Yes, installing the Denon 103 into the EMT-G is a bit like trying to fit “a quart into pint pot”, as can be seen from the photos of my sample.
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