View Full Version : Paul Hynes DC Cable for SL-1210
Here's a small upgrade I performed tonight, swapping from Kimber PBJ to Paul Hynes' Fine Silver cable for connecting my external SR5-21 PSU to the motor electronics. I must admit to trying this out on Marco's say-so and strong recommendation, being pretty happy with the way my Techie sounds.
Paul's usual impeccable workmanship means that the 0.8m cable looks good and comes complete with the necessary 4-pin XLR plug for the SR5. The cable is braided Kimber-style with a drain earth wire, making it three cores in total.
http://www.mtc.me.uk/images/PH_TechieCable_1.jpg
Showing the cable installed after having removed the mat & platter and the cable restraint plate. I opted not to use the third earth (green) connection because my arm cable effectively earths the deck to my preamp and I'm happy with the very low levels of hum I achieve. Others might prefer to connect this third cable and therefore earth the deck via the power supply.
The earth tag is connected under the PCB on the front-left post as that is where the PCB earth return tracks lie.
http://www.mtc.me.uk/images/PH_TechieCable_2.jpg
Under test and the SR5-21 produces a perfect 21V DC. Final tidying involved ensuring that the cable did not rub against the underside of the platter.
http://www.mtc.me.uk/images/PH_TechieCable_3.jpg
So how does it sound? Well, it shouldn't make any difference, should it? And yet I noticed a small but worthwhile improvement in smoothness - or lack of harshness if you like. This comes together with an improvement in the structural nature of the sound - tight and extended bass and pitch stability. it could be that the PH FS cable simply carries more current than the PBJ - and silver is a better conductor than copper too - but whatever the reason, I am pleased with this small upgrade which takes my Techie ever onwards in its sound quality.
Wakefield Turntables
27-09-2011, 19:34
I was going to produce something myself for the TimeStep HE but never got round to it. I'm going to trying Paul's SR7 at some point so I think i'll wait until i get one! Do you notice any improvement in the microdetail ?? I've been slowly upgrading my 1210 with new solid silver power cables and have noticed much more micro detail than before.
Mike_New
28-09-2011, 05:48
Hi Martin,
I would like to get hold of some silver cable for my own internal version of the separated DC supplies, incuding improved cabling from the main PS unit. Can you tell me who supplies it? Or perhaps Paul can if he is reading this.
I must say the bearing and coil assembly held together by the three socket head bolts does look really professional and business like!!!
Hi Mike
Yes, Paul should be here to give you the info - he is the supplier of this cable.
I did take the chance (as I don't remove the platter too often) to tighten the bolts into the base plate and lubricate the bearing. It's all working beautifully :)
Looking good, Martin. Mike's right:
I must say the bearing and coil assembly held together by the three socket head bolts does look really professional and business like!!!
Indeed! :)
Glad that Paul's silver DC lead has hit the spot - the effect of all these 'small tweaks' really does put the icing on the cake on T/Ts like ours, the performance of which has been judiciously 'honed to perfection' ;)
Enjoy! :cool:
Marco.
I am thanks, Marco. I'm hearing further improvement tonight having left the deck spinning all day. Paul predicts burning-in will take about a week.
Honed to perfection, that's a bold statement Marco, there is still room for improvement on your tekkie dude. :ner:
Lol - there's always room for improvement on anything, mate! But it's sounding mighty fine right now (you need to hear it in a system you know well in order to judge it properly) :)
So when are we having this T/T bake-off at your place, then? You keep talking about it, but it never materialises... ;)
Marco.
I am thanks, Marco. I'm hearing further improvement tonight having left the deck spinning all day. Paul predicts burning-in will take about a week.
Yup, mate, I think that's about right. The XLR plug can be improved upon, btw. I wouldn't have expected Paul to have fitted anything too 'fancy', and the one that's on the cable is decent enough, but something like a Furutech CF-60 makes quite a big improvement.....
Anyway, one thing at a time, eh! :cool:
Marco.
Well Marco I just signed up to sell Canor equipment including a rather excellent integrated valve amplifier which is causing quite a stir so it will be soon matey, very soon. Oh and I have my own RCM now so best make sure whatever vinyl you bring is pristine cos mine will be....
I am rather keen to have a PSU head to head as well, in particular your pure silver dc lead against my UP-OCC copper one....:)
Yup, sounds like a giggle, daftee, so just let me know when you fancy it! :cool:
Marco.
I think these are rather special personally........
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt309/themainsman/Oyaide/oyaidefocusxlrs.jpg
I met the M.D of Oyaide at the weekend, a very nice guy, top bloke as we say in Yorkshire, I gave him some samples of my plugs and cable for some reason!
The attention to detail that Oyaide pay is not well known, their gear is bordering on extraordinary, even the M.D of Nordost told me he thinks their stuff is the best!
Yes, those would be very good, too! :)
Marco.
Paul Hynes
28-09-2011, 22:26
Hi Marco,
Almost everything I supply is customisable. Actually the cable I sent you was not the full XL specification. The SR5 power supply you have is the standard specification with the XLR DC connector on the chassis. Because of this I had to fit the standard XLR to the cable to allow you to use it. For the XL specification I fit a rather hefty industrial connector with a contact resistance of <1 milliohm. These connectors have precision machined pins and sockets, and the contact integrity is exceptional, and better than any XLR I have tried so far. When the case arrives for the SR7EHD I am preparing for you, I will fit the XL connector in parallel with the standard XLR and supply a full spec XL lead to fit the precision connector so you can compare for yourself. I am told the SR7EHDcases I have on order will be approximately 3 weeks before shipping and I will have everything else ready for their arrival so I should be able to ship by the end of October.
I also make an XL version of the SR7EHD power supply and this uses Teflon boards for the regulator circuitry with rolled copper foils (not electro-deposited copper), Vishay bulk foil resistors and Silmic II capacitors. This level of build quality does start getting expensive, especially with one off orders for the Teflon boards, so I only do these as custom orders for those who are not too concerned with cost.
It will be interesting to see how the power supplies and cable compare to David’s offerings once you get time for the bake off. Hopefully you will have the SR7EHD by then.
Regards
Paul
Hey, nice to see you around, Leo, and thanks.
Look out for more on the Caiman soon ;)
Hi Marco,
Almost everything I supply is customisable. Actually the cable I sent you was not the full XL specification. The SR5 power supply you have is the standard specification with the XLR DC connector on the chassis. Because of this I had to fit the standard XLR to the cable to allow you to use it. For the XL specification I fit a rather hefty industrial connector with a contact resistance of <1 milliohm. These connectors have precision machined pins and sockets, and the contact integrity is exceptional, and better than any XLR I have tried so far. When the case arrives for the SR7EHD I am preparing for you, I will fit the XL connector in parallel with the standard XLR and supply a full spec XL lead to fit the precision connector so you can compare for yourself. I am told the SR7EHDcases I have on order will be approximately 3 weeks before shipping and I will have everything else ready for their arrival so I should be able to ship by the end of October.
I also make an XL version of the SR7EHD power supply and this uses Teflon boards for the regulator circuitry with rolled copper foils (not electro-deposited copper), Vishay bulk foil resistors and Silmic II capacitors. This level of build quality does start getting expensive, especially with one off orders for the Teflon boards, so I only do these as custom orders for those who are not too concerned with cost.
It will be interesting to see how the power supplies and cable compare to David’s offerings once you get time for the bake off. Hopefully you will have the SR7EHD by then.
Regards
Paul
Wow, Paul - I'm kind of lost for words! :yay:
Yer some man. All I can say is bring it on, dude, and let me know when everything is ready :cool:
Marco.
Hi Martin,
I would like to get hold of some silver cable for my own internal version of the separated DC supplies, incuding improved cabling from the main PS unit. Can you tell me who supplies it?
Hi-Fi Collective sell PTFE insulated silver wire - it looks very like the wire used in this instance.
Paul Hynes
29-09-2011, 10:36
Mark,
It's not HiFi Collective wire.
Paul
No, I've just had a look at the Hi-Fi Collective cable - they do sell PTFE silver cable though (at a price).
Do you think there would be any benefit powering an AC motor?
Paul Hynes
29-09-2011, 10:59
Mark,
You are not powering just a DC motor, but a DC motor and all its control electronics. It is well known that cables can have quite profound effects on the audible performance of signal processing electronics in sound systems. What makes you think it will not be the same for a DC motor and its control electronics?
Paul
Paul, I'm sorry, I didn't make myself very clear - I was thinking with regard to my own system. I have a cable that runs between my TT power supply and the AC motor in my deck.
I wasn't making any reference to the cable in this application. I was thinking of whether it may be of benefit in my application. In my situation there is no control circuitry, so perhaps there would be no benefit?
Paul Hynes
29-09-2011, 13:08
Mark,
I had better stand in the corner with a pointy hat on for the rest of my lunchtime. Serves me right for speed-reading. You did say an AC motor and from past experience you should hear a difference. I did a lot of work in the 1980’s and 1990’s on power supplies for AC deck motors.
Paul
Wakefield Turntables
29-09-2011, 13:23
Paul,
Can PM me with a price for this :-
"I also make an XL version of the SR7EHD power supply and this uses Teflon boards for the regulator circuitry with rolled copper foils (not electro-deposited copper), Vishay bulk foil resistors and Silmic II capacitors. This level of build quality does start getting expensive, especially with one off orders for the Teflon boards, so I only do these as custom orders for those who are not too concerned with cost."
thanks
Andy
Hmm.... In that case I would rather like to try one. Do you think you could PM me with cost? I would only need the cable as the connectors at both ends are quite specific - thanks.
JazzBones
29-09-2011, 17:03
Here's a small upgrade I performed tonight, swapping from Kimber PBJ to Paul Hynes' Fine Silver cable for connecting my external SR5-21 PSU to the motor electronics. I must admit to trying this out on Marco's say-so and strong recommendation, being pretty happy with the way my Techie sounds.
Paul's usual impeccable workmanship means that the 0.8m cable looks good and comes complete with the necessary 4-pin XLR plug for the SR5. The cable is braided Kimber-style with a drain earth wire, making it three cores in total.
http://www.mtc.me.uk/images/PH_TechieCable_1.jpg
Showing the cable installed after having removed the mat & platter and the cable restraint plate. I opted not to use the third earth (green) connection because my arm cable effectively earths the deck to my preamp and I'm happy with the very low levels of hum I achieve. Others might prefer to connect this third cable and therefore earth the deck via the power supply.
The earth tag is connected under the PCB on the front-left post as that is where the PCB earth return tracks lie.
http://www.mtc.me.uk/images/PH_TechieCable_2.jpg
Under test and the SR5-21 produces a perfect 21V DC. Final tidying involved ensuring that the cable did not rub against the underside of the platter.
http://www.mtc.me.uk/images/PH_TechieCable_3.jpg
So how does it sound? Well, it shouldn't make any difference, should it? And yet I noticed a small but worthwhile improvement in smoothness - or lack of harshness if you like. This comes together with an improvement in the structural nature of the sound - tight and extended bass and pitch stability. it could be that the PH FS cable simply carries more current than the PBJ - and silver is a better conductor than copper too - but whatever the reason, I am pleased with this small upgrade which takes my Techie ever onwards in its sound quality.
Beaut work there Martin. Your advice requested please: do the three white clips that provide the juice from the main PCB to switches etc, disconnect by pulling horizontally or lifting vertically? Don't want to bugger mine up when I get my MN base plate :doh: Thanks for your advice.
Ron:)
Hi Ron
Pull horizontally away from the PCB. Pull them by the plug, never the wires!
You're doing the base plate, eh? Take it very slowly, lay out all the parts and screws carefully in little piles so that you know the reverse order for assembly. I hope you don't have the chassis moulding that I had to deal with :eek:
Two articles to help you:
CableMaker1: http://theartofsound.net/forum/search.php?searchid=1243228
Mine: http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?p=148988#post148988
JazzBones
29-09-2011, 22:03
Hi Ron
Pull horizontally away from the PCB. Pull them by the plug, never the wires!
You're doing the base plate, eh? Take it very slowly, lay out all the parts and screws carefully in little pile so that you know the reverse order for assembly. I hope you don't have the chassis moulding that I had to deal with :eek:
Two articles to help you:
CableMaker1: http://theartofsound.net/forum/search.php?searchid=1243228
Mine: http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?p=148988#post148988
Thanks Martin for the info, you're the man who has gone before, respect :) I thought it would be a horizontal pull off but had to make absolutely sure as sometimes these little connectors need a little bit of a tug to come loose which can indicate error. I always put dismantled screws etc in packets labled 1, 2 and so on and just reverse the order when reassembling. Must do a multimeter test on my TS HE PSU's +V and -V, it would be interesting? Did Aralditing the bolts make any diference?
Thanks again
Ron
Did Aralditing the bolts make any diference?
I don't know for sure but I decided that this Techie was never going to be returned to original so I went the whole way and bonded the base plate to the chassis and tightened up the bolts once and for all. At least I know that the MN bearing could not have a more solid foundation.
Wakefield Turntables
30-09-2011, 08:45
Thanks Martin for the info, you're the man who has gone before, respect :) I thought it would be a horizontal pull off but had to make absolutely sure as sometimes these little connectors need a little bit of a tug to come loose which can indicate error. I always put dismantled screws etc in packets labled 1, 2 and so on and just reverse the order when reassembling. Must do a multimeter test on my TS HE PSU's +V and -V, it would be interesting? Did Aralditing the bolts make any diference?
Thanks again
Ron
Please could you do this test as I have a Time Step HE as well and I would really like to know how it measures up against Paul's work.
JazzBones
30-09-2011, 11:32
Please could you do this test as I have a Time Step HE as well and I would really like to know how it measures up against Paul's work.
Will do Andrew, but I'm going to install the MN BBP first when it arrives and then get me a new Multimeter (digital) as my present one, although good, is an anolog effort. As an aside, I don't know whether you got a chance to listen to the Timestep Evo 1200 at Whittlebury but it did sound very good although all the add ons to the stock 1200 could be done yourself at a reduced costing as apart from the TS HE PSU, everything else is an after market add on. I was sold on the AT 33EV pickup cartridge and I intend to replace my OC9Mk2 with one.
The Funk version alongside the Evo did not convince me both in sound and looks, but it may others. This is just me folks, but I thought the charcol black acrylic platter made the overall effect look plasticty, but as I have said, thats purely my own observation.
Cheers
Ron
JazzBones
30-09-2011, 11:44
I don't know for sure but I decided that this Techie was never going to be returned to original so I went the whole way and bonded the base plate to the chassis and tightened up the bolts once and for all. At least I know that the MN bearing could not have a more solid foundation.
Martin, this is something that I would like to do myself, viz: permanently bond the BBP to the chassis proper... don't see the point of going back to the stock.
Did you smear the entire contact area twix BBP and chassis or did you use the blob method, also whats the time scale before everything sets hard and forevermore?
Now, my apologies to all for drifting this thread away from the PH silver DC cable.
I think Russ Andrews does a kimber weave silver lead that I could make my own one up; on second thinking, this might cost mucho more?
Thanks again for your help
Ron
Wakefield Turntables
30-09-2011, 12:10
Martin, this is something that I would like to do myself, viz: permanently bond the BBP to the chassis proper... don't see the point of going back to the stock.
Did you smear the entire contact area twix BBP and chassis or did you use the blob method, also whats the time scale before everything sets hard and forevermore?
Now, my apologies to all for drifting this thread away from the PH silver DC cable.
I think Russ Andrews does a kimber weave silver lead that I could make my own one up; on second thinking, this might cost mucho more?
Thanks again for your help
Ron
Ron,
Mike New has actually documented somewhere on the forum how he bonded his 1210 just like the way you would like to do your. Finally, you can buy silver + teflon very cheaply ofif fleabay and do the job yourself. All my kit is now more or less running very high purity silver. I bought somemore last night to make another mains cable :eyebrows: Some say that Furutech XLR's plug are very good, I'm still yet to be sold. I use bog standard maplins silver plated XLR's and they are very good and only cost £4 a piece. :eek:
I did take the chance (as I don't remove the platter too often) to tighten the bolts into the base plate and lubricate the bearing. It's all working beautifully :)
You are aware that this alone *may* have made a difference all on its own? :eyebrows:
Hi Andrew,
Some say that Furutech XLR's plug are very good, I'm still yet to be sold.
You need to apply some lateral thinking and move from concentrating solely on the contact integrity and conductor purity of the pins on the chosen XLR plug, and also consider the resonant/vibrational properties of the connector housing, and how associated vibrational energy transfers to equipment, via the conduit of the connecting DC cable and its terminated connector (in this case an XLR plug), and thus muddies the sound....
Clue: the strips of carbon-fibre on the Furutech XLR plugs aren't simply there to look pretty! Think about it... They exist to control resonance.
The reason I use Furutech carbon-fibre technology connectors, in mains power applications throughout my system, is because they are extremely effective in terms of dealing with the above issue, and thus sonically superb.
Marco.
You are aware that this alone *may* have made a difference all on its own? :eyebrows:
I don't don't own an MN bearing base plate, or its associated allen bolts, yet can confirm, beyond question, that Paul's solid-silver DC cable is a significant no-brainer sonic upgrade for the modified Techy :)
Marco.
Wakefield Turntables
30-09-2011, 13:39
Hi Andrew,
You need to apply some lateral thinking and move from concentrating solely on the contact integrity and conductor purity of the pins on the chosen XLR plug, and also consider the resonant/vibrational properties of the connector housing, and how associated vibrational energy transfers to equipment, via the conduit of the connecting DC cable and its terminated connector (in this case an XLR plug), and thus muddies the sound....
Clue: the strips of carbon-fibre on the Furutech XLR plugs aren't simply there to look pretty! Think about it... They exist to control resonance.
The reason I use Furutech carbon-fibre technology connectors, in mains power applications throughout my system, is because they are extremely effective in terms of dealing with the above issue, and thus sonically superb.
Marco.
Marco,
I have a masters degree in biomechanics so the concepts that you explain are pretty simple concepts. There are far better ways of controlling resonance than carbon fibre. It would be better to make the whole XLR casing out of non magnetic stainless steel rather than the metal/carbon fibre design furutech employ. Stiffness would be uniform. I respect furutech and do use some of there components in my own power cables but I just think that you pay a lot for something which can be very easily bettered. Carbon fibre is less stiffer than stainless steel, so i cant see why they use it. A material of perfect and infinite stiffness would be the best material for resonance control, thats why hi-fi companies use stainless steel and speaker designers like B&W use diamond in there designs to limit vibration and resonance.
I fully understand getting rid of resonance is a key element. It would be far simpler to house high purity pins in something which is non-metallic, non resonant and extremely stiff. Hence getting the best of both worlds with no vibration / resonance to the XLR pins whilst ejecting RFI and EMI. My new balanced IC's are solder free so the issue of contact integrity is something I have removed. I've designed my own XLR's with continuous runs of very high purity silver. You need a £17K laser to be able to do this :)
I'm still in the process of designing some housing, once finished I'll post pics for all to see. But, for those that dont want to go as far as i have gone I would still recommend the maplin & ebay silver & teflon. There is nothing wrong with your reasoning and think your spot on but and your solution is a very highend way of controlling the various external variables which can effect cabling. Hope this gets you into my reasoning,
No disrespect mate!
Did you smear the entire contact area twix BBP and chassis or did you use the blob method, also whats the time scale before everything sets hard and forevermore?
The former - a light but even contact area. I left it for 24 hours and it was never going to come apart again.
You are aware that this alone *may* have made a difference all on its own? :eyebrows:
Yes, I'm aware of that. I do try to qualify my findings and you won't see me describe 'night and day' differences unless that's what I hear.
Hi Andrew,
Lol - no disrespect taken. It's all about opinions. I do what I do because I don't have the technical skills or patience you have :)
And I wouldn't doubt a word you have written, but the proof of the pudding is in the listening, and the Furutech carbon-fibre technology connectors (I'm not just talking here about the XLR plugs) are the best commercial products I've used so far.
I also use their IEC mains connectors throughout my system, and have tested otherwise identical mains leads, with 'ordinary' non-carbon fibre technology Furutech IEC plugs on them, swapped them for FI-50s, and the performance difference between both mains leads was frankly staggering, with the FI-50-equipped ones being significantly sonically superior!! :eek:
Theories are all well and good, but it's practical listening experience that ultimately matters most ;)
However, if you've managed to design comparably good plugs yourself, then I would truly love to do a comparison with the Furutechs sometime :cool:
Marco.
Please could you do this test as I have a Time Step HE as well and I would really like to know how it measures up against Paul's work.
Now this is interesting and important to understand. What exactly are you going to measure? All the PSUs should generate +21V as near as dammit off-load. If they have half-decent regulation they will also generate +21V while the motor is spinning. You could knock up a four component circuit using a 1.5A LM317 to achieve that and have current to spare. You might just catch a glimpse of voltage regulation on motor start-up on a digital voltmeter, but you'll have to be fast.
The only parameters that might give away the sound quality differences between the PSUs are tightness of voltage regulation while under load and noise performance, for both of which you'll need an oscilloscope.
The only way you're going to be able to differentiate is by listening, I'm afraid.
Wakefield Turntables
30-09-2011, 14:19
Hi Andrew,
Lol - no disrespect taken. It's all about opinions. I do what I do because I don't have the technical skills or patience you have :)
And I wouldn't doubt a word you have written, but the proof of the pudding is in the listening, and the Furutech carbon-fibre technology connectors (I'm not just talking here about the XLR plugs) are the best commercial products I've used so far.
I also use their IEC mains connectors throughout my system, and have tested otherwise identical mains leads, with 'ordinary' non-carbon fibre technology Furutech IEC plugs on them, swapped them for FI-50s, and the performance difference between both mains leads was frankly staggering, with the FI-50-equipped ones being significantly sonically superior!! :eek:
Theories are all well and good, but it's practical listening experience that ultimately matters most ;)
However, if you've managed to design comparably good plugs yourself, then I would truly love to do a comparison with the Furutechs sometime :cool:
Marco.
Marco, I fully respect your opinion and look forward to reading your comments on all topics. You are 100% correct in that the main thing is to use your lug 'oles and make your own decisions. I just love talking all things cable and its nice to get some decent banter on the subject. I dont really want to spend the money on furutech stuff. The days of me spending copious amounts of wonga on hi-fi have long gone;) (But that still dosen't stop me from maybe buying a SR7XL power supply in the next week or two!!). Furutech stuff does look very pretty though :ner:
Now this is interesting and important to understand. What exactly are you going to measure? All the PSUs should generate +21V as near as dammit off-load. If they have half-decent regulation they will also generate +21V while the motor is spinning. You could knock up a four component circuit using a 1.5A LM317 to achieve that and have current to spare. You might just catch a glimpse of voltage regulation on motor start-up on a digital voltmeter, but you'll have to be fast.
The only parameters that might give away the sound quality differences between the PSUs are tightness of voltage regulation while under load and noise performance, for both of which you'll need an oscilloscope.
The only way you're going to be able to differentiate is by listening, I'm afraid.
Martin,
I'm not really sure what I want to be measuring that why I rely on people like you that have infinity more electronics knowledge than I. From what you say it looks like the integrity of the current is what i should be interested in and the ability of the powerpack to maintain a full 21V with extremely tight voltage regulation. But just a couple of questions.
1. Whats your definition of "load", and "noise peformance" this means differing things to differing people?
2. When do you sonically start to notice the effects of poor regulation, and how would these manifest themselves to my lug'oles?
Thanks
andrew
1. Whats your definition of "load", and "noise peformance" this means differing things to differing people?
2. When do you sonically start to notice the effects of poor regulation, and how would these manifest themselves to my lug'oles?
Tough questions.
1. Essentially the load is the current draw when the motor is in normal operation and will be subtly different at 33 and 45rpm. It won't be a constant, either, as the motor has poles and so there will be spikes in the load during a single rotation. Not to mention the stylus drag being variable depending on its shape, tracking weight, the wiggle of the groove - in other words, the load is dependent on the music. Noise is anything except the DC that the PSU should provide: semiconductor noise overlaid with ultrasonics and other spurious crap, depending on how well the regulator is designed and its decoupling capacitors.
2. Impossible to say! A poorer PSU such as the Timestep demonstrates inferior pitch stability, a higher noise floor to the proceedings, higher surface noise and less insight into the music. Effectively, a good PSU like the SR5 gives a deep black background, greater dynamics and greater insight into the soundstage and micro-detail.
Wakefield Turntables
30-09-2011, 17:09
Tough questions.
1. Essentially the load is the current draw when the motor is in normal operation and will be subtly different at 33 and 45rpm. It won't be a constant, either, as the motor has poles and so there will be spikes in the load during a single rotation. Not to mention the stylus drag being variable depending on its shape, tracking weight, the wiggle of the groove - in other words, the load is dependent on the music. Noise is anything except the DC that the PSU should provide: semiconductor noise overlaid with ultrasonics and other supurious crap, depending on how well the regulator is designed and its decoupling capacitors.
2. Impossible to say! A poorer PSU such as the Timestep demonstrates inferior pitch stability, a higher noise floor to the proceedings, higher surface noise and less insight into the music. Effectively, a good PSU like the SR5 gives a deep black background, greater dynamics and greater insight into the soundstage and micro-detail.
Martin,
Thanks for taking time out to answer these questions. The answer to the second question is telling. I have now had the Timestep powersupply for about 10 months so I'm used to its behaviour. It would be very interesting to see if the SR7XL (which is the one I'm after) produces the effects that you describe especially the microdetail. I have designed my system to be as clinically forensic as possible. Microdetail is something that I crave. From what you say it sounds like the TimeStep is actually holding back these attributes. I think action is needed... :eyebrows:
Andrew: one correction. I had an original Timestep and you have an HE. I cannot speak for the HE as I've never heard it and neither do I know what's inside.
Wakefield Turntables
30-09-2011, 19:40
No worries mate. I'm gonna be making notes about its performance over the weekend so I can compare it against the SR7XL when it arrives. I'll be writing up a full report before the end of the year :eyebrows::eyebrows:
Mike_New
30-09-2011, 23:56
Hi Ron
I hope you don't have the chassis moulding that I had to deal with :eek:
Two articles to help you:
CableMaker1: http://theartofsound.net/forum/search.php?searchid=1243228
Mine: http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?p=148988#post148988
Hi Martin,
From above are you refering to the cast-in lettering at the bottom part of the chassis. If so I now machine a relief under the Base Plate to clear this, for those who have this type of casting.
Out of interest what type of regulation circuitry is the HE based on? is it series?
If so I now machine a relief under the Base Plate to clear this, for those who have this type of casting.
Good news, Mike.
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