Technics Power Switch Rewiring with an External PSU

[CableMaker1]

This thread is to show you how to re-arange the wiring your Technics SL-1200 Mark 2 Turntable to use the Power Switch when using an external PSU. Thanks goes to Shuggie on his thread on how to wire an external PSU to the 1200, and Mike New on his input on how to re-wire the PSU and Power Switch wires so that the Power Swich could be used after the PSU is installed.

This thread continues from where Shuggie left off. If you want to remove the internal PSU and prepare the TT for external PSU usage, start with Shuggies thread. This thread continues from where Shuggie left off in the regards of the wire arrangement needed to make use of the Power Switch.

To complete this process, you will need the following:
Multimeter
Screwdriver
Soldering Iron
Solder
Solder Removal
Wire Cutters
Scissors
Electrical Tape
Additional Wiring
and Good Eyesight :eyebrows:

[CableMaker1]

To start, remove the mat, platter, and the black housing cover to expose the drive electronics. If you have the Mike New Platter, you will have already removed the cover.

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[CableMaker1]

If you soldered the DC Positive Supply in the area highlighted Lamp Area (Top Middle Wire of the Circuit Board), desolder this wire. Picture highlights the area in discussion.

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[CableMaker1]

Now, you will want to focus your attention to the smaller PCB. If you removed the internal PSU and its wiring from the TT, 3 wires will remain on this PCB. The colours of my the wiring that was left on my PCB is Red, Brown, and Blue.


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[worrasf]

This thread is to show you how to re-arange the wiring your Technics SL-1200 Mark 2 Turntable to use the Power Switch when using an external PSU.


Mike

I may have missed something here because I can not see your images but I have already covered this before at http://www.theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=8118 post number 8

Steve

[CableMaker1]

Now, you will want to focus your attention to the smaller PCB. If you removed the internal PSU and its wiring from the TT, 3 wires will remain on this PCB. The colours of my the wiring that was left on my PCB is Red, Brown, and Blue.

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Step 1:
Remove the secondary PCB from the TT.

Step 2:
Make sure the Power Switch is in the Off position.

Step 3:
Set your MM (or DMM if you have one) and set it to Ohms.


Step 4:
Take the negative terminal of your MM and clip or contact it to the pole nearest to the bottom.


Step 5:
Take the positive terminal of your Mutimeter and contact it to the wire next to the pole. If the Multimeter registers, with a non-OL, this is the wire that you will need to solder to the Lamp Area where the DC Positive Lead was desoldered from. (Dont do this just yet.) For me, this was the Blue Wire.


Step 6:
Take the Positive Lead of your MM and contact it to the next wire. (Make sure the Negative Terminal is still clipped or connected to the pole.) If the MM registers OL, power it on while the poles are still connected. If the MM now registers with a non-OL reading, you will take the DC Positive Wire of the External PSU to this wire. For me, this was the Brown Wire. (Again, do not do this just yet.)


If Steps 5 and 6 check out as I explained, proceed to desloder these wires as a Step 7 Procedure. Be sure to desolder the third wire from the circuit board (which is the Red wire in my case) which will stand alone. If you find Steps 5 and 6 are in reverse or the wiring arrangement is different, adjust accordingly.

Using electrical tape, tape the wire that will not be connected to anything.

Cut enough of the covers of the other two wires accordingly to expose additional wire. This will make the process easier when you start connecting the wires.

[CableMaker1]

Having additional wiring, clip a wire which will be long enough to reach from the wire in step 5 to reach the lamp area. Connect and solder accordingly.

Take the Positive Wire from the External PSU and connect it to the wire in step 6.

Tape up the remaining wire which will not connect to anything if you have not done so already.

As a side note, if you have the negative wire of the external PSU connected to the top right corner of the PCB, this will be a good time to move it to the bottom left corner for better results.

I used electrical tape to connect and keep the wires together. This may be ideal if you plan to change psu in the future or if you decide to change your mind about the wiring arrangement. If you are satisfied with the results and dont plan to change anything, You may want to bind the wiring with solder

One thing you may want to do that I did not show in the picture - you may want to twist the Wiring together to prevent rf interference.

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[CableMaker1]

Now take your PSU and connect it to the TT and test the Power Switch. You should see results like this.

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[CableMaker1]

If you received these results, put everything back together and enjoy!!!

Mike

[CableMaker1]

Mike

I may have missed something here because I can not see your images but I have already covered this before at http://www.theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=8118 post number 8

Steve

Steve,

Thats a good layout. I may have missed that. However, if you have not done so already, you may want to move the DC Negative Lead and move it from the Top-Right to the Bottom Left Corner.

Can you (or anybody) see my pics I embedded in these posts?

[CableMaker1]

OK, I am missing something here.

I can see my pics embedded in my posts when I am logged in. When I log out, I cannot see the pics embedded in my posts. I only see tags. This is not what I want.

What am I missing here????

:scratch:

[worrasf]

However, if you have not done so already, you may want to move the DC Negative Lead and move it from the Top-Right to the Bottom Left Corner.

Yep - done that - although it is common sense to be there I couldn't in all honesty discern any sonic difference.


Can you (or anybody) see my pics I embedded in these posts?

Nope - still can't see them.

Steve

[Greg2010]

Can you (or anybody) see my pics I embedded in these posts?

They're in there for me Mike.

Regards
Greg

[keiths]

I can see the pictures fine Mike.

[worrasf]

Now then - I wonder if that's because I'm on a Mac using Safari - wonder if those who can see Mike's piccies are using Explorer or Firefox?
:scratch:

Steve

[worrasf]

Yep - that's the answer - just logged on using the Vaio and IE and Mike's piccies are there for all to see :)

This is not to be taken as an opening by all those who feel the need to have a dig at all things Apple :lolsign:

Steve

[CableMaker1]

Thanks everyone for your input. Here is the issue I still have when embedding pics into a thread-

I can only see the images in the thread when I log in to the forum. If I am not logged in, I can only see the tags where the images should be. How do I achieve getting the images into the thread for all to see even if they are not logged in?

I am using jpg images in my threads. I use the reply, not the post quick reply in my posts that have images.

Thanks to all for your help and your input.

[keiths]

I can only see the images in the thread when I log in to the forum. If I am not logged in, I can only see the tags where the images should be.

I think only logged-in members can see images that are uploaded as attachments. I suspect this is to minimise bandwidth.

[CableMaker1]

Take a look at other posts with images, such as Shuggies thread regarding hooking up an external PSU to the tt. Look at the post without being signed in. You will be able to see his images without being signed in.

[CableMaker1]

Yep - that's the answer - just logged on using the Vaio and IE and Mike's piccies are there for all to see :)

This is not to be taken as an opening by all those who feel the need to have a dig at all things Apple :lolsign:

Steve

I can see the pics using safari on my iPad. :lolsign:

[spacey]

Hello Mike

The images you've posted of these mods shows a very different power supply and board?? Mine are MK3D, do these mods work on these too or is it more complicated? Theres much more going on inside mine.....

[CableMaker1]

Hello Mike

The images you've posted of these mods shows a very different power supply and board?? Mine are MK3D, do these mods work on these too or is it more complicated? Theres much more going on inside mine.....

Hello Raj. It may help if you can post a pic of your board inside your tt. That may help clear things a bit.

Note that when I took my pics that my internal PSU and it's wiring was completely removed from the equation. If you have the internal PSU or the wiring left behind, this may be adding to your confusion.

[keiths]

Take a look at other posts with images, such as Shuggies thread regarding hooking up an external PSU to the tt. Look at the post without being signed in. You will be able to see his images without being signed in.

That's because he's uploaded his pictures to a third-party picture hosting site and embedded links to them using
http :// third_party_site/my_image.jpg tags rather than attaching the images to the post as you have. Shuggie's method allows non-members (and members who aren't logged in) to view the images because it's not costing AoS (or, more specifically, Marco - who pays the hosting bill for the site) the bandwidth as the images are being served from a third-party site and not directly from AoS's hosting. Or at least this is how I understand it.

[MaksK]

Mike thanks for the write up. Do you happen to know how to wire so that switch is used only to turn off lights of the techy? I prefer to have it on all the time, but sometimes the red strobe light and blue pitch lights (m5g version) are annoying when watching movies in dark room. I remember MartinT mentioned this somewhere.

[spacey]

Hi, this board on the left is bigger and much more populated, it also used the other fixings to fasten too. Also has more cables attached. Will post some pics soon.

http://theartofsound.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5220&d=1314897802

[spacey]

Not my deck but the PS board is exactly like this one: http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv48/r-tee/image.jpg