View Full Version : Oh Dear...Replacement needed for Caiman big smoothing cap?
Oh dear, what a nasty experience I had the other night.
Tried a new Linear PSU which runs at 15V 3A on my Dac last night, a
trial from a good guy on AOS.
It has a +-10% variable voltage which can be adjusted.
Anyway, hooked it up with a meter of Mark Grants mains cable and sat
back to enjoy.
Checked wiring was OK then checked again.
After a couple of minutes a strong smell of ammonia(?) coming from the
Dac and a crackling noise...
Shit!
I powered off right away, only to notice that the Dac was red hot where
the big smoothing cap was?
oh dear..
Left the case to cool and opened up the lid.
The big smoothing cap had swollen and had been "sweating" inside the case!
The PCB was covered in some kind of slick coating and it stank of
ammonia or something.
Leaving the Dac to cool, I got the multimeter out and tested the voltage
on the power supply.
Its 15v +-10% so should have been OK?
Nope - it was reading 31V!!!
How is this possible?
Something must have happened to the PSU it in transit - I have no idea what.
Adjusting the voltage +-10% screw though got it down to 15.6V...what it
should have been.
I should have double checked BEFORE I plugged it in, lesson learned!:doh:
Thinking my Dac was knackered I hooked it up hours later once the Dac
(and myself) had cooled down and knowing the supply was working as it
should at 15v+
The Dac worked but with a few problems:
1. The input selectors didn't work properly. No matter what you selected
it only played Coaxial#2.
2. The Optical input didn't work.
3. Sound quality had suffered - not anywhere near as good as before
prior to the big smoothing cap going ppffftttt.
Pretty pissed off I went to bed, thinking to look at it again in the
morning.
Everything works!
The sound quality is not what it should be but I suspect the burst
smoothing cap is the problem?
I'm guessing the Dac had overnight to "dry out" and fix itself?
SO...
from a position of "improving" my linear PSU I'm now 2 steps behind
where I was before. :(
What's the next move Guys...
My next mod to the Dac after improving the PSU was to replace the big
smoothing cap with a film cap, so maybe its the ideal time to look at it
- a blessing in disguise?
(I use Murata regs in my Dac, which has all the mods done and Gator
board fitted).
Should I be worried about anything else having went pop - everything
seems to work and the heat was only coming from the smoothing cap?
The Dacs unplugged till I can get this sorted.
Thanks.
StanleyB
23-05-2011, 12:41
One good and unique thing about my DAcs is that they have a dual power supply. One is external and one is internal. So it is more robust that most of the other ones out there :eyebrows:.
Replace the power caps with say 6800uF 25 or 35V after checking that they are not higher than 30mm.
The audio PCB might have gone down as well. I am out of stock of the Gator as I was going to stop selling them as an upgrade. But I have 20 on order for some folks who missed out. You can go on the list for one.
Reid Malenfant
23-05-2011, 12:57
If i was you i'd clean the PCB up as it sounds like it's got a lovely coating of electrolyte all over it, that's possibly another reason it's not sounding as it should..
Not sure what to recommend to clean it up all all honesty, possibly Isopropanol would shift it. You should be able to buy some at an independant chemists. If they ask you what you want it for say cleaning tape heads ;)
If the new linear PSU has a good quality smoothing cap you don't need another in the Caiman. I found that 10,000uf in the PSU did the trick and added a small tant in place of the large Caiman cap. I prefered the sound with the little tant in place rather than another large cap.
Lucky escape BTW!
Regards
Chris
Reid Malenfant
23-05-2011, 14:37
I guess i should add that electrolyte is conductive & will rot the PCB given enough time :eek: You wouldn't believe the amount of knackered SMPS PCBs i have seen that have been eaten away by electrolyte from leaky capacitors :rolleyes:
I'd make it a priority to clean it ASAP, before you use it again!
E2A:- Isopropanol is the same as Isopropyl Alchohol, it's the purest alcohol you'll be able to purchase legally as a member of the public..
Thanks guys..
The supply I have is THIS: NNS-15
http://www.tdk-lambda.com/products/sps/ps_unit/nns/indexe.html
would it have a smoothing cap in it somewhere?
I cant really tell from the specs to be honest :scratch:
Chris:
What Tant did you fit?
Can you remember the specific one, just so I know what to buy.
I know you can replace the smoothing cap with a film cap..would this be better?
Mark:
The Dac is OFF till further notice...will pop into the chemists and clean the board ASAP.
Would a cotton bud be ok for this Mark?
thanks for the info.
Stan:
As the Dac still works..I suspect the blown cap still functions....can I take it that the main PCB/Gator is actually OK as Im getting sound from the Dac?
If the blown cap is replaced, will the Dac be at 100% sound quality of what it was...or will there be a reduction?
If I give the board a cleanup with isopropyl alcohol and replace the swollen smoothing cap, would I be good to go or should I maybe get the Dac checked out properly to see if theres anything wrong deeper down?
Would this be something you could look at Stan?
thanks.
Not had this happen to me before, so unsure of the best way to go about it.
Thanks.
G.
Reid Malenfant
23-05-2011, 14:58
Yes it'll have a smoothing capacitor inside it...
If i was you i'd fit something like a Sanyo Os-con which has super low ESR.
If the DAC still functions it'll probably be 100% OK after cleaning with isopropanol. Use a clean paintbrush & tip some on the PCB & give it a gentle scrub. Make sure you remove all traces of electrolyte as it'll eat into the PCB & start making connections where there shouldn't be any..
Not only does the stuff eat in but it connects things that shouldn't be as i mentioned. I'd often find charred sections of PCB under leaky caps. This was caused by the electrolyte conducting between the two pins of the cap & making things get hot due to excessive current flow - which of course just made the whole thing worse :lol:
Hi G,
The cap, tant or film cap value is really is not important so try whatever you have. The tant I had in was a small one and the film cap I have in now is also tiny. I found that using a 10,000uf in the PSU and a 10,000uf in the Caiman gave a sluggish sound (over smoothed possibly) and a little tant or cap corrected this. I only put a cap in to address potential RF or I would have gone with nothing in the Caiman.
Regards
Chris
Yes it'll have a smoothing capacitor inside it...
If i was you i'd fit something like a Sanyo Os-con which has super low ESR.
If the DAC still functions it'll probably be 100% OK after cleaning with isopropanol. Use a clean paintbrush & tip some on the PCB & give it a gentle scrub. Make sure you remove all traces of electrolyte as it'll eat into the PCB & start making connections where there shouldn't be any..
Not only does the stuff eat in but it connects things that shouldn't be as i mentioned. I'd often find charred sections of PCB under leaky caps. This was caused by the electrolyte conducting between the two pins of the cap & making things get hot due to excessive current flow - which of course just made the whole thing worse :lol:
Thanks again for the info Mark, sounds do-able.
Would you suggest a particular Sanyo Os-con for this job?
Seems the choice isn't all that critical, but as I dont have any caps lying around I'd need to order one in anyway..might as well get something good?
Thanks.
G.
Hi G,
The cap, tant or film cap value is really is not important so try whatever you have. The tant I had in was a small one and the film cap I have in now is also tiny. I found that using a 10,000uf in the PSU and a 10,000uf in the Caiman gave a sluggish sound (over smoothed possibly) and a little tant or cap corrected this. I only put a cap in to address potential RF or I would have gone with nothing in the Caiman.
Regards
Chris
Cheers Chris, good info.
Gaz.
Reid Malenfant
23-05-2011, 16:52
Would you suggest a particular Sanyo Os-con for this job?
Seems the choice isn't all that critical, but as I dont have any caps lying around I'd need to order one in anyway..might as well get something good?
Thanks.
G.
I'd suggest just about any that are over 20V DC rating & have the same leg spacing. Failing that look for a Panasonic FC that'll fit, these are also good for PSU rails :)
If you can find the distance between the capacitor legs & let me know, i'll have a hunt about for you ;)
hey...thanks Mark!
I'll see if I can find out.
Cheers
Gaz.
Reid Malenfant
23-05-2011, 17:53
Pull the buggered one out & get a ruler against the legs. Trust me it's well & truly stuffed :(
ok dokie... :)
Not got a soldering iron though, use the old mans tommorow.
Thanks Mark.
Reid Malenfant
23-05-2011, 18:22
Hey Gaz, just remembered i happened to have an electrolyte damaged 500W SMPS PCB, so went looking & i found it :eyebrows:
Your gonna love this, please clean you Caiman quickly :)
Lots of lovely electrolyte from newly leaking caps :doh:
http://i939.photobucket.com/albums/ad240/speakermark/Image1-1-3.jpg
Given a bit of time... This was a section outputting +/- 15V DC, same as your Caiman input :eek: There is a hole where a capacitor used to be, you can see the charring plain as day, the fibreglass PCB has absorbed the electrolyte & started conducting current, from then on it's a slippery slope to oblivion!
http://i939.photobucket.com/albums/ad240/speakermark/Image2-1-1.jpg
http://i939.photobucket.com/albums/ad240/speakermark/Image3-1-1.jpg
Get it cleaned ASAP m8, not pretty is it :stalks:
Hey Gaz, just remembered i happened to have an electrolyte damaged 500W SMPS PCB, so went looking & i found it :eyebrows:
Your gonna love this, please clean you Caiman quickly :)
Lots of lovely electrolyte from newly leaking caps :doh:
http://i939.photobucket.com/albums/ad240/speakermark/Image1-1-3.jpg
Given a bit of time... This was a section outputting +/- 15V DC, same as your Caiman input :eek: There is a hole where a capacitor used to be, you can see the charring plain as day, the fibreglass PCB has absorbed the electrolyte & started conducting current, from then on it's a slippery slope to oblivion!
http://i939.photobucket.com/albums/ad240/speakermark/Image2-1-1.jpg
http://i939.photobucket.com/albums/ad240/speakermark/Image3-1-1.jpg
Get it cleaned ASAP m8, not pretty is it :stalks:
JEEZUS H!!! :stalks:
Uhm...good point, well made Mark
I'm on it.
Mark Grant
23-05-2011, 18:55
You plonker Rodney :) Meter it before you plug it in :eek:
Maplin sell IPA
http://www.maplin.co.uk/isopropyl-alcohol-28994?tabid=1&c=so&u=strat25&doy=search&ma=maplin%20electronic%20cleaning%20solvent%20chea p%20deals
Not cheap though.
Google shopping results:
http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Isopropyl+Alcohol&sourceid=ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-gb:IE-Address&ie=&oe=&redir_esc=&ei=oqraTduzB9DB8QO-nLSEBQ#q=Isopropyl+Alcohol&hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:en-gb:IE-Address&prmd=ivnsr&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=oqraTa-iC4_F8QO6sc2DBQ&ved=0CEkQrQQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=149178431d8d668&biw=1409&bih=920
I could post you a can tomorrow, I have lots of it :)
Wear latex gloves when working with leaky capacitors and IPA etc,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropyl_alcohol#Toxicology
-
I'd suggest just about any that are over 20V DC rating & have the same leg spacing. Failing that look for a Panasonic FC that'll fit, these are also good for PSU rails :)
If you can find the distance between the capacitor legs & let me know, i'll have a hunt about for you ;)
Hey Mark,
Was given this link by Stan.B. (thanks Stan)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/16V-10000uF-105-C-electrolytic-radial-Capacitor-/110504892164?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Suppl ies_ET&hash=item19ba9ad704
"lead spacing 10mm..."
Reid Malenfant
23-05-2011, 21:27
Ah, snap in with 10mm spacing :scratch:
You could use a cap with less spacing & have it a tad above the PCB if needs be, just as long as it actually fits in the limited height.
Cheers, gives me more idea what to look for ;)
Thank you Mark. :cool:
Gaz.
Sorry to hear about the accident Gaz :( Please do take Marks advice about cleaning the pcb serious though, that stuff can be corrosive to pcb tracks etc if left. Nasty stuff has caused me problems in the past.
Also if thinking of using tant caps be sure to use ones with a much higher rated voltage than what their being used with (don't run these close to their max rated voltage) and never connect them in reverse polarity , tants go off like fireworks unlike electrolytics
thanks Leo,
I'll be cleaning the Dacs internals ASAP, hopefully this will all be a bad experience soon enough :doh: :)
An update to my tale of woe....
Took the Dac apart this afternoon and got to cleaning the dac pcb properly with IPA and everythings came up shining like a new pin. Fantastic stuff, just the dab.
Not removed the cap yet but everything seems ok underneath it with no obvious burn marks or anything to the board. Good stuff.
Took some pics of the offending cap:
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/1676/p1020056k.th.jpg (http://img109.imageshack.us/i/p1020056k.jpg/)
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/4276/p1020057b.th.jpg (http://img696.imageshack.us/i/p1020057b.jpg/)
Not exploded exactly, more swollen I'd say.
The board looks ok apart from one wee thing which I wonder if it is a "thing" or not...
Near the base of the cap there are 4 metal pads not obviously connected to anything. One of them seems slightly "rusty" compared to the others?
Could someone more clever than myself take a gander and see what they think? :scratch:
http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/8652/p1020049w.th.jpg (http://img827.imageshack.us/i/p1020049w.jpg/)
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/9558/p1020052xd.th.jpg (http://img121.imageshack.us/i/p1020052xd.jpg/)
Apart from this everything seems spot on and the dac physically "works".
My only concern is this wee "rust" mark and if it might degrade performance somehow.
I wont be fitting a similar cap in its place, but a smaller film cap or tant as the "killer" PSU :steam: has smoothing caps built in.
So perhaps a non issue?
thanks.
G.
Ali Tait
28-05-2011, 12:19
Don't think it's anything to lose sleep over mate, just looks like the solder pad lifted.
Good to know, thanks Ali.
Be good to get the Dac back up and running. Pleasantly surprised with the Touch analogue out (with Soundcheck mods) but not like the Dac.
Ali Tait
28-05-2011, 13:28
Aye, it's surprisingly good. Any moves on the amp front yet?
Covenant
28-05-2011, 13:42
Get yerself a Croft Gaz, I lurve mine!
Well, the amp side of things just go more complicated...
I was going to just go ahead and get the Bantam monoblocks, but at £320 I wondered if I could maybe get more for just a little more money?
It was an article about how good T-amps were that gave me a moment o pause...the bantams were very much more expensive.
if I save a bit more I could up my budget a bit more and go £500 for a new amp.
Rega's got a new one out just under that, the Brio R. Only one review so far but seems it's phenomenal.
Confused though, as I'm thinking that maybe a t-amp with a Rega Dac might be even better??
Be around July when I need to make my mind up, so more reviews of the Rega amp by then, so will know better nearer the time.
Also, been reading up on advantages of passive bi-amping, which the bantam monos would be....and opinions are mixed.
Colour me confused!
Some time to think about it though...
According to hifi dave, the new Brio still isn't available. The thing is, it outperforms the outgoing Mira 3, looks more modern and will have a decent warranty.
Gaz,
Hope this doesn't offend, but having been an owner of a pair of AE Speakers until a few months ago, (Aegis Evo 3's) if I was in your position, that is where I think the biggest improvement could be made to your system... Moving to my Spendors was the one and only "night and day" upgrade I have ever experienced, not suggesting you go for the same, but in my (limited) experience, I think you could get a bigger improvement looking there instead of T-amps... Just my POV, of course, but could be worth investigating further...?
Ali Tait
29-05-2011, 02:46
Don't disagree with Alex mate, after all you've heard the ob's for yourself. However I'd still go for the monos first. They are just so much value for money. Then ask Colin to build you some ob's. You know it makes sense.
It does make sense.... :)
Thing is though, in your opinion Ali do you think the monoblock Bantams would running my speeks passivly biamped would be a "better amp" than the likes of the likes of the new Rega integrated for about £100 more?
I know the Bantams offer great vfm, but in absolute amp quality the I would like to get the best bang for the buck
Ali Tait
29-05-2011, 17:46
Sorry mate, can't answer that as I've not heard the Rega. Could you get a listen to the Rega at a shop somewhere with your speeks? Then you could buy the monos and see which you like the best. I'm sure the monos would be sale or return. I would say that the Rega would have to be good to beat the monos though.
Reid Malenfant
29-05-2011, 17:52
Hi Gary, i'm not sure if you got my PM chap? :scratch:
I have a solitary Sanyo Os-Con that you can have if you PM me your AD m8 ;) 22uf which will be fine fed from a regulated PSU & 20V rating. No point in using a huge cap following a regulated PSU, all you want is low impedance & the Os-Con will give you that..
Free to a good home, yours if you want it! Free postage to, just let me know...
Gaz,
Hope this doesn't offend, but having been an owner of a pair of AE Speakers until a few months ago, (Aegis Evo 3's) if I was in your position, that is where I think the biggest improvement could be made to your system... Moving to my Spendors was the one and only "night and day" upgrade I have ever experienced, not suggesting you go for the same, but in my (limited) experience, I think you could get a bigger improvement looking there instead of T-amps... Just my POV, of course, but could be worthting further...?
Hi Alex,
totally take on board what your saying and your right.
The speakers are on the list, but they need a bit more saving up for as I want to spend a bit more moolah on them BECAUSE they are the most important part of the chain.
Having heard Ali's open baffles I'll be looking forward to the BIG improvement I get when I upgrade the speakers :)
Hi Gary, i'm not sure if you got my PM chap? :scratch:
I have a solitary Sanyo Os-Con that you can have if you PM me your AD m8 ;) 22uf which will be fine fed from a regulated PSU & 20V rating. No point in using a huge cap following a regulated PSU, all you want is low impedance & the Os-Con will give you that..
Free to a good home, yours if you want it! Free postage to, just let me know...
Replied to Mark.
Merci Buckets!
:cool:
Sorry mate, can't answer that as I've not heard the Rega. Could you get a listen to the Rega at a shop somewhere with your speeks? Then you could buy the monos and see which you like the best. I'm sure the monos would be sale or return. I would say that the Rega would have to be good to beat the monos though.
Hi Ali,
Im sure one of the Glasgow shops are Rega stockists, bought my old Planar 2 TT from there years ago.
I'll email Bantam, see if they do sale or return.
they are pretty confident in their product so will probably be ok. :)
Curious too about the Rega Dac....
thinking to buy the Bantam mono's on sale or return and compare them to the new Rega amp.
I'll bring along the Beresford and do a comparison with the Rega Dac whilst im there. Best advice I guess is to listen to them and compare.
Also, I Wonder if anyones compared the Gator/Caiman with the Rega..if its a million miles better than my current dac then I might be tempted to go for that and just pick up a single bantam gold amp instead....
interesting!
:)
Stratmangler
29-05-2011, 22:21
Gaz
Are you still coming to Owston next month ?
Come and have a listen there before you make any decisions.
Stratmangler
29-05-2011, 22:23
Alex UK
When did Avatar start practising the Dark Arts ?
How many goats had she sacrificed when you caught her on camera ?
Alex UK
When did Avatar start practising the Dark Arts ?
How many goats had she sacrificed when you caught her on camera ?
:lol: She does look a bit freaky, doesn't she!? Afraid no Bovidae were harmed in the making of my current avatar - a few pots of poster paint bit the dust, though! :)
Happy Ending Update... :)
Burst cap removed and PCB all cleaned up.
22uf 20V Os-Con cap soldered in to replace the big smoothing cap.
All working just fine :)
SOME PICS:
the burst cap - look at the sweat on that baby!
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/1014/p1020090v.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/685/p1020090v.jpg/)
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/951/p1020089d.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/845/p1020089d.jpg/)
This was what I saw when I removed the damaged cap...corrosion setting in? Yuk!
http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/8037/old2w.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/594/old2w.jpg/)
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/9499/old3s.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/old3s.jpg/)
All clean and shiney, new cap soldered in.
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/6862/new3vo.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/197/new3vo.jpg/)
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9355/new1cp.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/98/new1cp.jpg/)
First bit of DIY, I soldered the cap in, working fine, no explosions or loud bangs..not bad for a first DIY job!
The Beresford's been off for over a week, so I'm leaving it "cooking" for a couple of hours then I'll have a proper listen.
Right away though...just firing it up to make sure its working ok, its sounding better than I remember it.
A proper listen with a glass of vino tonight.
Phew! So...the story comes to an end. :)
Panic thinking I'd buggered my Dac, a bit of support and help from the guys on here (Thanks Mark..and Mark!) and now I have a working upgraded Dac .
A few changes made at once, hard I guess to pin down what has made it better?
Smoothing cap removed replaced by a low ESR OsCon cap and a better linear supply with Mark Grant mains cable.
Whats made the most difference? Who knows....(who cares!)
Looking forward to a good listen later tonight.
Result. :)
Thanks guys for all the help on this one, saved my Dac and me a heart attack!
Nice one, Gaz. Glad it's all sorted.
Reid Malenfant
03-06-2011, 18:07
:lolsign: The Os-Con really does look like a bit dropped off in that position, but in reality it's perfect for the job! Having too large a capacitance following a linear PSU can sometimes make things unstable due to the feedback around the PSU circuit itself.
As i mentioned in the PM Gary the cap will be a bit leaky current wise for a while but will settle in. You should notice a gradual improvement in audio quality as it does so :thumbsup:
Have a pleasant weekend! 4708
Great sounding caps, Os-Cons, but a bit sensitive to being run near their voltage rating. 20V should have a good margin, however.
Good stuff Gaz. What's your next project?
Good question Rob!
Been looking at John Swensons design for a linear PSU for the Touch...remember you sent me the links for it?
hmnnn.
Good question Rob!
Been looking at John Swensons design for a linear PSU for the Touch...remember you sent me the links for it?
hmnnn.
Ask Jerry if he still likes his.
Actually scratch that Rob, the next job is swapping out the Murata 12V reg for a non switching discreet type, probably one of the Dexa'a.
Theres a low high freq "whistle" in the background after fitting the Gator board, and after asking around it seems to be switching noise being picked up by the Gator board, as its not there with the original.
Any other potential reasons for this?
I had assumed the Gator board to be the culprit but as the whistle is there with two different units (and different psu's), I guess its just my Dac with all its modifications adding up to the noise.
Maybe a case of with the Gator board its a more open window letting more crap in?
Dunno...
Going to swap out the Reg anyway methinks.
Baby steps....before I take on a PSU build project!
Gaz, you ought to make one of the super regulators with a 7805. Have a look on Pink Fish. I can send you the bits you need. Costs about £10. Mind you, you could be waiting a long time if my performance with the caps for the passive mod is anything to go by :doh:
Covenant
04-06-2011, 18:28
Ask Jerry if he still likes his.
Yes-with a capital Y!
Ali Tait
04-06-2011, 18:30
Anyone have links for the John Swenson PS?
Covenant
04-06-2011, 18:32
Actually scratch that Rob, the next job is swapping out the Murata 12V reg for a non switching discreet type, probably one of the Dexa'a.
Theres a low high freq "whistle" in the background after fitting the Gator board, and after asking around it seems to be switching noise being picked up by the Gator board, as its not there with the original.
Any other potential reasons for this?
I had assumed the Gator board to be the culprit but as the whistle is there with two different units (and different psu's), I guess its just my Dac with all its modifications adding up to the noise.
Maybe a case of with the Gator board its a more open window letting more crap in?
Dunno...
Going to swap out the Reg anyway methinks.
Baby steps....before I take on a PSU build project!
Gaz,
Your dac and mine must be pretty similar as we have followed the same upgrade path more or less. I dont get any whistle. Have you tried moving around SMP supplies on other bits of equipment to see if you can alter or eliminate the problem as it might be RF?
Covenant
04-06-2011, 18:35
Anyone have links for the John Swenson PS?
http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?t=82648&page=4 :)
Ali Tait
04-06-2011, 19:07
Cheers Jerry. :)
Strange regarding the Murata's, I'm not sure of the switching frequency, maybe its in the audible range for certain ones and not for others? I presume you all use the same model? not really looked at the Murata's much tbh.
Thing to note is that although a good discrete op-amp can give best sound , IC based op-amps tend to have better PSRR than basic discrete citcuits so you need clean as possible supplies for them for best results.
A discrete super reg would be the best choice although obviously more costly. I had wonderful results using Paul Hynes regulators with a Sabre based dac, as already mentioned Martin had good results with the Dexa's , Audiocoms newest ones are also supposed to be very good so you have plenty to choose from.
You could also try a few of the simplish diy ones if your feeling brave, I doubt they'll be as good as the best commercial discretes though
BTW I tried John Swensons diy 5v discrete regs, they was pretty good
Gaz,
Your dac and mine must be pretty similar as we have followed the same upgrade path more or less. I dont get any whistle. Have you tried moving around SMP supplies on other bits of equipment to see if you can alter or eliminate the problem as it might be RF?
Worth a go Jerry, I'll try that.
Yeah, our dacs must be pretty close...I did the "wire" mod (well Ali did :)) to remove the resistor behind the 12V Reguator..dont know if that might have done something which the Gator board might have revealed?
Its annoying actually...especially on quieter pieces, quite noticable.
Gaz, you ought to make one of the super regulators with a 7805. Have a look on Pink Fish. I can send you the bits you need. Costs about £10. Mind you, you could be waiting a long time if my performance with the caps for the passive mod is anything to go by :doh:
Hi Rob,
caps for passive mod? Cant remember anything about that old chap ;)
I scoured PFM and theres a lot of threads about the "super regulator".
TOO many actually and there seems to be different types?
From PFM I got a link to this (useful?) page, but I don't know where to look?
http://www.gammaelectronics.com/power-supplies-and-regulators-audio-hi-fi-diy.html
Could you help out a hapless Jock and point me in the right direction?
ta. :)
Strange regarding the Murata's, I'm not sure of the switching frequency, maybe its in the audible range for certain ones and not for others? I presume you all use the same model? not really looked at the Murata's much tbh.
Thing to note is that although a good discrete op-amp can give best sound , IC based op-amps tend to have better PSRR than basic discrete citcuits so you need clean as possible supplies for them for best results.
A discrete super reg would be the best choice although obviously more costly. I had wonderful results using Paul Hynes regulators with a Sabre based dac, as already mentioned Martin had good results with the Dexa's , Audiocoms newest ones are also supposed to be very good so you have plenty to choose from.
You could also try a few of the simplish diy ones if your feeling brave, I doubt they'll be as good as the best commercial discretes though
Thanks Leo.
Its a good clean linear supply feeding the Dac so I would hope discreet regs would not be wasted.
The Dexa's can be sourced for about £25, do the Paul Hynes come in at much more?
Also, would they fit inside the Caiman case?
ta.
G. :cool:
Hi Rob,
caps for passive mod? Cant remember anything about that old chap ;)
I scoured PFM and theres a lot of threads about the "super regulator".
TOO many actually and there seems to be different types?
From PFM I got a link to this (useful?) page, but I don't know where to look?
http://www.gammaelectronics.com/power-supplies-and-regulators-audio-hi-fi-diy.html
Could you help out a hapless Jock and point me in the right direction?
ta. :)
Gaz,
Link here
http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=23208&highlight=Regulator+booster&page=5
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i239/saxonsex/Superreg005.jpg
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