Cardas rewire

[JRS]

Has anyone attempted a Cardas rewire on the 1210? I've been given a few options from jclovesmusic (cork mat guy). The options are a twisted pair of internal tonearm cable 110679218226(ebay item number) and a separate external lead - 120716257745. Or a continuous loom which I assume is the above two items joined together in some way. What would be the pro's and cons of both methods.
Thanks.

[Cliff]

I don't know if this will be of any help to you, but here goes.
I had the Cardas rewire done by KAB on my 1200 arm. Plus had the Cardas wire continued out of the bottom of the deck and terminated with RCAs for direct connection to phono stage/preamp. Also replaced stock headshell wires with the Cardas.
All of this completely transformed my deck from a dull, department- or discount -store sounding toy into a real TT.The KAB tonearm damper balanced out some of the effects of the wire, and the two together have given me a real TT which I look forward to playing but am not in a rush to further upgrade, though I will.:)

Cliff

[Wakefield Turntables]

Or better still buy yourself some teflon coated silver and have the tonearm re-wired. This may sound a little shrill to some so this can be partially improved by using silver plated copper altough some say this can make things sound a little "thin". Hope this helps.

[MCRU]

Or buy a new or 2nd hand tone-arm with cardas wire already in like an RB300 that I just found in my lock up...:)

[RochaCullen]

Or buy a new or 2nd hand tone-arm with cardas wire already in like an RB300 that I just found in my lock up...:)

Are you going to be flogging this arm David? And if so, how much?

Nathan

[tannoy man]

Andrew, do you know where I can get the Teflon coated Silver wire, thanks

[DSJR]

Are the INTERNAL wires so awful when the arm itself rings like a bell in the upper midrange?

I do appreciate the external cables could be readily upgraded to advantage, but I'd personally be careful of the internal wires unless a, you're very good at silver soldering (for the silver wires) b, you get a virgin new headshell socket to save contaminating the new silver solder with old solder and c, you're competent at taking the arm apart and reassembling it without knackering the bearings...

You see, there'll almost certainly be several differences going on due to the arm being dismantled and re-assembled either whole or in part, and not just the wires here.

[Wakefield Turntables]

Andrew, do you know where I can get the Teflon coated Silver wire, thanks

fleabay is a very good place to start thats where I got mine for my rewire of my V.

[JRS]

So just taking it apart and re-assembling it could change it's character? I do have a second 1210 so I wouldn't be without a deck and the one I'm planning on upgrading has fallen into the hands of my 4 year old son who liked to test the limits of upward rotation of the arm:steam: It could well be spannered already.
On the other hand, I've owned both decks from new so I know they've not been too abused and I wouldn't want spanner them any further. Hmm.

I'm afraid that I've started on a course of improvement and the arm seems like a logical step either now or in a few months. I'm sure everyone does this, I read up on one aspect, research it a bit, change my mind and start again. So far I've gone from getting a Jelco then back to the stock via a SME(don't think I'll bother with one of them). Thought about PSU, thought about matts etc but the only upgrade I've made is the isonone feet which are superb.
Maybe the new plan should go like this...
New Yamamoto Ebony Headshell
New Cork Mat
New Ic's
New Cart Ideas for the Yamamoto please but has to MM.
Then think about a rewire and Kab damper
In terms of soldering skills, I've not done any silver but I'm in the middle of doing one of these http://docs.monome.org/doku.php?id=tech:mk:assembly
which is fairly complex

[Wakefield Turntables]

$HIT that looks very very fiddly.

[DSJR]

Deck first (to a degree), then arm and finally cartridge is still the best way to go.

Re-building a suspect Techie tonearm isn't going to cost a fortune and they're cheap to replace if you have a disaster. Have a look at foam-filling the pipe or investigate exactly what makes the mk5 version different - could save you loads of headaches possibly.

I still think the Sumiko shell is a goodie. I'm sure the Oyaide shell is great, but for £220? - only you can decide value for money. Wooden headshells may give loads of cachet, but I'd rather put this money towards an external power supply myself ;)